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changing sliders

Started by jd8181, January 29, 2009, 12:57:24 PM

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jd8181

i just bought a set of chrome sliders (lower fork legs) and i talked with a guy that has changed acouple of sets of them and said they aren't bad to change and i'm to cheap to pay harley $150 to change them. i read the manual and it sounds pretty easy. my questions are should i use harley fork oil or some other brand?? i want to clean inside of the sliders (since they are used) before i change them and i'm just wondering what i should use?? and any other advice you guys can give me.
2003 Night Train 95" SE Pistons, S&S Cams, Hooker's , SERT, etc....
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Harleytwostar

If you do a search you'll find several recent replies to your exact question.  I know I replied just about two weeks ago to a gent asking same.  Short answer is..........yes, they are not hard at all to change.  Make sure you take the lower damper retaining bolt out BEFORE you pull the upper springs.  The spring pressure helps to keep the assymbly solid so you can loosen the bolt.  I cleaned my with warm soapy water and then coated with fork oil film before reassembly.  I use Bel Ray oil.  Key is to get the level equal in both tubes.  Take your time and remember how the old ones came apart so when putting the new one together you have a map.  You don't need an expensive seal driver to install the new seal........just a lot of patience and care in "coercing" the new seal down into the slider.  Don't forget to check a make sure the drain screw is installed before you add new fluid..........don't ask me how I know.  Good luck.  They will look sweet when you are done.

r/ George
2002 Fatboy
2004 883

specialx1

shouldn't have to pull springs out if your just changing to chrome sliders,it is easier to pull tubes out of triple trees in my opinion and work on it, you have to anyways if the bike has soups cans on it or else you cant put seals in,i use screamin eagle heavy fork oil but like all oils its your choice and can depend on weight of rider n other things,pick up a piece pvc to use for seal driver to install seals,
JMHO
Specialx1
it's only kinky the first time

Sonny S.


jd8181

2003 Night Train 95" SE Pistons, S&S Cams, Hooker's , SERT, etc....
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Sonny S.

On that bike I would leave the tubes in the triple trees.

easy job  :up:

jd8181

would you recomend that i change the fork seals too??
2003 Night Train 95" SE Pistons, S&S Cams, Hooker's , SERT, etc....
What's Next

Sonny S.

I would change them if it were mine.
If it's got a lot of miles inspect the bushings real good as well.


waskier01

Can you lift the bike?  On a table, put the bike on backward.  On a scissor, be really careful.   Ideally, put it backward on a table lift with a scissor lift to raise the front wheel.  Pull the front wheel, drain the oil, and use a long 6mm allen socket on an impact gun to remove the damper rod retaining bolt.  Lift the dust seal on the top of the slider and pull the retention clip sitting on top of the fork seal.  With the clip off and the bolt out use the slider to hammer out the upper bearing.  ta-da.  Pull the fork legs out of the trees, and while holding inverted, REMEMBER to put the little cup back onto the end of the damper rod and slide the clean chrome slider onto the leg and install the damper rod retaining bolt.  Try to torque the retaining bolt now, but it might help to wait until the fork is installed into the trees and the fender is on.  After the bolt is installed, re-invert so the leg is upright and install the upper bearing carefully.  Install the washer/spacer with the flat down, then the new fork seal, clip, then dust seal.  Now either carefully measure the amount of fork oil to be installed into either leg, or, pull the springs and fill with oil using the distance method.