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Amsoil vs HD SE synthetic

Started by gbalmer, July 11, 2012, 01:16:33 PM

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Nebraskarider1

If I recall correctly Harley used to say (maybe it has changed?) you could use whatever oil you wanted as long as it met Harley certification #*** whatever it was. Problem I saw is no other oil had that certification on it or they didn't release the specs so anyone else could have the cert. also. In a roundabout way they were telling you that you had to run their oil to be covered or they'd have a loophole to get out of a warranty claim in the event of an engine failure due to lubrication failure. I don't like that way of being strongarmed but since I still have a warranty I'll just use it.  Also since the analysis is coming back decent I'll probably use it after the warranty is up. Plus getting 20% off on a case and only $10 shipping its not all that bad of a price.

 
Quote from: codyshop on July 11, 2012, 09:13:18 PM
Unless things have changed, all HD lubricants are made by Citco which is a Venezuelan (Hugo Chavez) owned conglomerate.   You're basically sending money to that Commie POS.
And as far as supporting Citgo or whoever is making Oil for them currently I guess if you buy a new Harley and it has Harley oil in it then you are supporting them too, I don't have the time to research each and every part on my bike to see if I support each and every mfg/employee who built it so for all I know the valve stem on the rear tire may have been assembled by an undercover terrorist... does that mean since I bought a bike with a terrorist assembled valve stem that I support terrorists, :scratch: I don't think so.
     Bottom line: No matter what you like someone else will have a reason not to like it. Use what makes YOU feel all warm and fuzzy.

Bolo Ocho

The local dealership fired a service writer for pushing amway oil at service check-ins. Sounds like good oil, but I cringe when I hear a guy saying he runs it in his Twin Cam for 10k OCIs ( most all of you guys know way more then me 'bout Harleys, though). I could save a little coin goin' 5k with the VR1 synth, or spend about the same goin' 5K with something really excellent like Redline, but 2500 mile oil change intervals with Dino VR1 feels good, and I get to look at the drain plug more often. Speakin' of which, when I dropped that "new" "improved"  HD 360 ( maybe now made from that stuff our Red&Green Cousins to the north are diggin' up, instead of Senor Chavez's product ), aside from lot's of bubbles, first time in last 10k miles I've seen stuff on the drain plug...course that could of been due to Tech's 12 mile long test/joy ride on my bike following "courtesy" oil change. 

Deye76

July 13, 2012, 11:40:14 AM #52 Last Edit: July 13, 2012, 11:49:38 AM by Deye76
Quote from: codyshop on July 13, 2012, 07:17:38 AM
Interesting.   We've been an Amsoil retailer for over ten years and have never, ever experiences any of these myths (pyramid scheme, MLM, pressure sales, etc. and other such nonsense).   We call in an order and the product shows up...and that's it.

I think there's a difference between retailer and distributor. Years ago I wanted to buy Amsoil in quantity, (don't have a shop, would not sell it retail), the local Amsoil guy wanted me to visit shops trying to peddle it, and buy way more than I needed or could afford, much like Amway. Wasn't a myth in my limited experience. Chopper is pretty knowledgable about oil, and I recall him alluding to a pyramid type of thing regarding amsoil. Maybe it's a Michigan thing.
Knew I should have stayed away from an oil thread. :crook:
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

codyshop

Quote from: Nebraskarider1 on July 13, 2012, 09:21:32 AM
If I recall correctly Harley used to say (maybe it has changed?) you could use whatever oil you wanted as long as it met Harley certification #*** whatever it was. Problem I saw is no other oil had that certification on it or they didn't release the specs so anyone else could have the cert. also. In a roundabout way they were telling you that you had to run their oil to be covered or they'd have a loophole to get out of a warranty claim in the event of an engine failure due to lubrication failure. I don't like that way of being strongarmed but since I still have a warranty I'll just use it.  Also since the analysis is coming back decent I'll probably use it after the warranty is up. Plus getting 20% off on a case and only $10 shipping its not all that bad of a price.

 
Quote from: codyshop on July 11, 2012, 09:13:18 PM
Unless things have changed, all HD lubricants are made by Citco which is a Venezuelan (Hugo Chavez) owned conglomerate.   You're basically sending money to that Commie POS.
And as far as supporting Citgo or whoever is making Oil for them currently I guess if you buy a new Harley and it has Harley oil in it then you are supporting them too, I don't have the time to research each and every part on my bike to see if I support each and every mfg/employee who built it so for all I know the valve stem on the rear tire may have been assembled by an undercover terrorist... does that mean since I bought a bike with a terrorist assembled valve stem that I support terrorists, :scratch: I don't think so.
     Bottom line: No matter what you like someone else will have a reason not to like it. Use what makes YOU feel all warm and fuzzy.

You missed my point.  Lubes are not "hard parts,"  they are consumables and must be purchased on a somewhat regular basis after the bike is bought.   There's not much I can do about Achmed's valve stem...but there sure damn well is about what I buy tomorrow.

N-gin

Since some one brought up oil being bought from one company to the other.
I remember a friend told me one when he was working for valvoline. Mobile One ordered 4 tankers full of valvaline syn.

I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

dakota224


Nebraskarider1


You missed my point.  Lubes are not "hard parts,"  they are consumables and must be purchased on a somewhat regular basis after the bike is bought.   There's not much I can do about Achmed's valve stem...but there sure damn well is about what I buy tomorrow.
[/quote]

I guess I was guilty of "stirring the pot" point understood on "consumables"

codyshop

Quote from: Nebraskarider1 on July 13, 2012, 09:10:56 PM

You missed my point.  Lubes are not "hard parts,"  they are consumables and must be purchased on a somewhat regular basis after the bike is bought.   There's not much I can do about Achmed's valve stem...but there sure damn well is about what I buy tomorrow.

I guess I was guilty of "stirring the pot" point understood on "consumables"
[/quote]

It's all good...    :up:

sfmichael

Quote from: Ancient on July 12, 2012, 07:31:50 PM
So, every time I read one of those, "Which oil to use?" questions, a question always comes to my mind.

When was the last time anyone or anyone you know had one of these engines fail and the failure could be attributed to the oil (of any type) not doing it's job? I'd wager it won't be many, if any.

My 2 cents: Use the correct viscosity. Either dino, syn, or blend. Change it at reasonable intervals. Go ride and have fun.

   :agree:
Colorado Springs, CO.

Bolo Ocho

In pursuit of full disclosure, and a factual oil thread  :wink: and a nod, I have to mention that I saw 2 bubbles on my dipstick yesterday :embarrassed:: running the straight 50w VR1 for the first time- SOP for me has been to mix 1 quart of 50W with 1 of 20-50 for hot weather, never saw da bubbles with that mix. Guess it is as Warhorse says, too heavy an oil will cause some cavitation. Live and learn ( what's next? goin' to extended OCI amway oil to save the drain plug?  :doh:)   

mp

It's always amusing to see the latest stuff the Amsoil moonies come up with.  I don't imagine I've ever changed oil in my life (and I'm old) without seeing some bubbles in the oil.  I've never seen an engine failure because of oil, or any other reason.  I've never noticed that one oil makes the engine or the transmission seem quieter or tighter.  I've got an old Evolution engine with near 170,000 miles on it with a gear drive cam and straight-cut transmission gears and they have always run quietly no matter what dino oil (H-D 360, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Havoline, Shell, Kendall, and three quarts of Quaker State semi-synthetic) I've run.  I use gear oil in the tranny, both synthetic and dino, and ATF in the primary (so I know if it leaks).  I paid $1.79 or less a qt for Kendall up til a couple years ago and have never spent more than $3 for a quart of motor oil.
Conclusion:  If you spend eight or ten or fourteen dollars a quart on motor oil....  YOU'RE NUTS!!!!!!!

Tsani

Well. I am so glad you cleared that up. So I can spend $7.99 on a quart of earl and be sane. Cool. :bike:

BTW, store brand dino 20wt/50 cost over $4 here.
ᏣᎳᎩ ᎤᏕᏅ ᎠᏴ ᎠᎩᎸᏗ ᏔᎷᎩᏍᎩ ᎠᏂᏐᏈᎵ
ᎠᏎᏊᎢ Leonard Peltier

Bolo Ocho

Quote from: mp on July 15, 2012, 10:06:39 AM
It's always amusing to see the latest stuff the Amsoil moonies come up with.  I don't imagine I've ever changed oil in my life (and I'm old) without seeing some bubbles in the oil.  I've never seen an engine failure because of oil, or any other reason.  I've never noticed that one oil makes the engine or the transmission seem quieter or tighter.  I've got an old Evolution engine with near 170,000 miles on it with a gear drive cam and straight-cut transmission gears and they have always run quietly no matter what dino oil (H-D 360, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Havoline, Shell, Kendall, and three quarts of Quaker State semi-synthetic) I've run.  I use gear oil in the tranny, both synthetic and dino, and ATF in the primary (so I know if it leaks).  I paid $1.79 or less a qt for Kendall up til a couple years ago and have never spent more than $3 for a quart of motor oil.
Conclusion:  If you spend eight or ten or fourteen dollars a quart on motor oil....  YOU'RE NUTS!!!!!!!

My goodness, friend. Can't imagine you think I'm an amway "moonie", least not if you actually read any of the drivel I attempt to pass off as worthy posts. Suppose I could be accused of being a bit of a VR1 cheerleader  :smileo:. Likely points up me bein' too cheap of a SOB to happily own one of these new fangled Harley's  :hyst:

War Horse

Quote from: mp on July 15, 2012, 10:06:39 AM
It's always amusing to see the latest stuff the Amsoil moonies come up with.  I don't imagine I've ever changed oil in my life (and I'm old) without seeing some bubbles in the oil.  I've never seen an engine failure because of oil, or any other reason.  I've never noticed that one oil makes the engine or the transmission seem quieter or tighter.  I've got an old Evolution engine with near 170,000 miles on it with a gear drive cam and straight-cut transmission gears and they have always run quietly no matter what dino oil (H-D 360, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Havoline, Shell, Kendall, and three quarts of Quaker State semi-synthetic) I've run.  I use gear oil in the tranny, both synthetic and dino, and ATF in the primary (so I know if it leaks).  I paid $1.79 or less a qt for Kendall up til a couple years ago and have never spent more than $3 for a quart of motor oil.
Conclusion:  If you spend eight or ten or fourteen dollars a quart on motor oil....  YOU'RE NUTS!!!!!!!

And there ya have it men, brought to you by Dr. Phill himself....... and may I add , its on the internet  :wink: most of us are NUTS  :hyst:

I hope I dont have to pay for session  :teeth:
A clear conscience is the sign of a fuzzy memory

Too Short

I run amsoil in my 2010 RGC. I use 20w50 in the motor and primary in cooler months and 75w140 in the transmission. The only change I make is in the hot months, July and August here in Michigan, I run 60 weight in the motor. The rest stays the same. Harley synthetic is garbage. The top 3 synthetics to run are Amsoil, Lucas and Mobil 1. Bike has never shifted better or ran quieter and cooler than with the 60 in the hot months. Well worth the money.

Ancient

Quote from: Too Short on July 15, 2012, 12:30:43 PM
I run amsoil in my 2010 RGC. I use 20w50 in the motor and primary in cooler months and 75w140 in the transmission. The only change I make is in the hot months, July and August here in Michigan, I run 60 weight in the motor. The rest stays the same. Harley synthetic is garbage. The top 3 synthetics to run are Amsoil, Lucas and Mobil 1. Bike has never shifted better or ran quieter and cooler than with the 60 in the hot months. Well worth the money.

Seriously? Well I'm going to say, Juicy Fruit is garbage. The top 3 gums to chew are Big Red, Dentyne, and Doublemint.

C'mon man.
Greg

Too Short

Yeah seriously.  Always had trouble using that syn3 junk.  Bike is loud.  Can hear every working component in the motor chattering away.  Opinions are like assholes though.  That I get.  I'll never use anything but Amsoil in my bike. It works for me.

Bolo Ocho

Quote from: Ancient on July 15, 2012, 01:19:32 PM
Quote from: Too Short on July 15, 2012, 12:30:43 PM
I run amsoil in my 2010 RGC. I use 20w50 in the motor and primary in cooler months and 75w140 in the transmission. The only change I make is in the hot months, July and August here in Michigan, I run 60 weight in the motor. The rest stays the same. Harley synthetic is garbage. The top 3 synthetics to run are Amsoil, Lucas and Mobil 1. Bike has never shifted better or ran quieter and cooler than with the 60 in the hot months. Well worth the money.

Seriously? Well I'm going to say, Juicy Fruit is garbage. The top 3 gums to chew are Big Red, Dentyne, and Doublemint.

C'mon man.

Nooooo, say it ain't so, joe.... Juicy Fruit is the best, man. Just watch "One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest" and you will know for sure  :smilep:

slypig


Nooooo, say it ain't so, joe.... Juicy Fruit is the best, man. Just watch "One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest" and you will know for sure 

Beemans Black Jack gum is the best.......where the hell is the BIRD?? :potstir:
Slypig
Panama City Fl

sfmichael

Beemans Black Jack gum is the best.......where the hell is the BIRD??

   :hyst:
Colorado Springs, CO.

Buffalo

  I used Syn3 in my 95" supercharged (Magnacharger) Twin Cam for 33000klms. It made 125hp/125t, ran at 210 degrees at highest, never had the slightest indication of motor making any more noise, and no failures other than a leaking head gasket at 25000klms. I ran HD360 until HD came out with Syn3, the dino oil ran 10-12 degrees hotter under same conditions. That was a leak around around the rear cyl  head drain back port with a SE multi layer gasket. I decided to remove the cylinders to check wear at that point, see how my expensive J&E forged pistons where standing up. I could find no visible wear signs on pistons, I just buttoned her back up with new gaskets. I rode the hell out of this for 3 yrs, shifting at 6500rpm, just cause it was too much fun!!  The lousy fuel mileage of a carbed blown engine (30mpg at best cruise) forced me to sell the unit and replace it with a T124 S&S TC. I run Mobil 20-50 Vtwin as recommended byS&S.
An inspection of the oil pump at 28000klms shows no wear anywhere I could see. Both worked and continue to work as advertised as far as I'm concerned.

Bolo Ocho

Quote from: Nebraskarider1 on July 13, 2012, 09:21:32 AM
If I recall correctly Harley used to say (maybe it has changed?) you could use whatever oil you wanted as long as it met Harley certification #*** whatever it was. Problem I saw is no other oil had that certification on it or they didn't release the specs so anyone else could have the cert. also. In a roundabout way they were telling you that you had to run their oil to be covered or they'd have a loophole to get out of a warranty claim in the event of an engine failure due to lubrication failure. I don't like that way of being strongarmed but since I still have a warranty I'll just use it.  Also since the analysis is coming back decent I'll probably use it after the warranty is up. Plus getting 20% off on a case and only $10 shipping its not all that bad of a price.

 
Quote from: codyshop on July 11, 2012, 09:13:18 PM
Unless things have changed, all HD lubricants are made by Citco which is a Venezuelan (Hugo Chavez) owned conglomerate.   You're basically sending money to that Commie POS.
And as far as supporting Citgo or whoever is making Oil for them currently I guess if you buy a new Harley and it has Harley oil in it then you are supporting them too, I don't have the time to research each and every part on my bike to see if I support each and every mfg/employee who built it so for all I know the valve stem on the rear tire may have been assembled by an undercover terrorist... does that mean since I bought a bike with a terrorist assembled valve stem that I support terrorists, :scratch: I don't think so.
     Bottom line: No matter what you like someone else will have a reason not to like it. Use what makes YOU feel all warm and fuzzy.
Schaeffer's V-Twin full syn 20-50 meets HD specs, as well as JASO-MA. $8.59 a quart at my local NAPA- think that's a bit cheaper than the SYN-3, and pretty sure no terrorists involved in refining  :sheep:

Old Crow

Quote from: sfmichael on July 15, 2012, 06:50:12 PM
Beemans Black Jack gum is the best.......where the hell is the BIRD??

   :hyst:

I think he's tied up in the basement over at Earl's Place.  :potstir:
This ain't Dodge City, and you ain't Bill Hickock.

BlackSpecial

Quote from: mkd on July 11, 2012, 02:40:57 PM........i use spectro platinum 6 speed in the trans and spectro heavy duty chaincase oil in the primary of both bikes.

Same here along with M1 VTwin!  :up:
2014 FLHXS,561-1 cams,JWP heads,TTS,Ness a/c,Jackpot 2-1-2 pipe,Crushers

tomboyjr

Just bought Redline at racerpartswholesale.com. Free shipping over $100. I bought enough for 2 changes, came to a little over $200, including 2 K+N filters. Cheaper than ebay, or anywhere local for me.

Thanks deye