strange issue...only in 3rd gear

[scoopfraser]

I've got a 2000 FXD with the stock clutch and transmission.  Recently, it started acting up but only right after you shift into 3rd gear.  It feels like the clutch lever is pulled in slightly and than quickly released.  The rpms jump up, power is disrupted and than back to normal.  There aren't any unfavorable noises while it happens.  I've got about 60,000 miles on the bike.

I'm not exactly sure where to start looking so any help would be appreciated.

Sean
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[Jeffd]

sounds like time for clutch work. 

[DanThe Man]

Clutch work

[truck]

Start with the adjusting screw under the derby cover. The procedure is in the service manual.

[Buffalo]

 Remove the primary cover to inspect the clutch. I've seen them wear a groove in the clutch basket on the drive side, causing the plates to bind. The same thing can happen to the plate lugs.
If the basket is notched, only repair is replacement. If plates are done, r&r and your away.
Keeping your primary filled to the right level is critical, and using the appropriate fluids. I don't like ATF in there, any product specified as Primary oil works fine in my 01' Dyna. I used HD spec Primary until they replaced it with Formula, I've used Belray, Drag, and Vtwin with success. None seem to do any better than any other. FWIW  Buffalo

[Admiral Akbar]

I'll go against the norm.. For one groves on the basket tend to make the clutch grab or drag.. My bet would be that you got rounded third gear dogs in the tranny.. Possibly a bent shift fork, or shift fork rod..   The 00 tranny and earlier has a chronic over-shifting problem that that allows the drum to spin past 3rd.. It can spin all the way to 4th, find a neutral between 3rd and 4th or slip a little bit past 3rd and drop back in.. You probably have a little bit of the later. Catching on the edge of the dogs has rounded it to the point where it grabs and skips..

By all means start with the clutch first to eliminate it.. Peal away the onion so to speak.. If you go into then tranny, install a Baker  anti over shift shifter and a drum. The baker drum isn't necessary but it shifts nicer.

Max

[jbee]

Loooking at the clutch adjustment is a good and easy place to start....however it is strange that it only happens in 3rd gear.
If my memory serves me right...lol....your transmission has something called a pawl adjuster...it is used to set the upward and downward throw of your gear shifter and can be affected by wear. It can affect gear selection and might need re adjustment after your mileage.
Something similar also happens to sportsters in 1st gear...a momentary jump out of power. Often caused by wear on the gear dogs.....but that is a gear that has to deal with the torque of moving a bike from a standing start and all those crunching wimpish gear selections that peeps make from neutral. So it is unlikely to be a 3rd gear/mating gear dog issue, but wouldn't rule it out....I just wouldn't go looking there unless a complete last resort.
It's unlikely to be a selector fork/shift drum issue as each of the sliding gears used to select 3rd gear are used to select other gears also.
So do the clutch check...easy
Do the pawl adjustment....easy with the right tools and if you know what your doing...a shop tech should do it in 5-10 minutes once the engine is cool.
Does it happen only changing up into 3rd?
i take it the actual physical selecting of the gear feels the same through your foot? Just that it jumps out and back into gear.
To look in the transmission properly is quite an effort unless you've a decent idea of what you are doing...plus...with your mileage, you'd be looking at changing some bearings and seals and stuff in all likelyhood.
Hopefully it's nothing that requires that.

Good luck

Derek

[ViennaHog]

TCs did away with the Evo style pawl adjuster. it is a round bolt to center the shifter pawl, nothing more.
I agree with Max thoughts about worn 3rd gear dogs.

[Admiral Akbar]

TCs did away with the Evo style pawl adjuster. it is a round bolt to center the shifter pawl, nothing more.

Yeah but they did it for the non B motors in 2001.. Non Bs on 2000 still had them.. They also added an anti over shift to the shift arm.. This might have been a running change since they needed to use up the current inventory of older shift mechanisms.. The changes were to help with shifting on the B motors..

Adjusting the shift pawl is probably too late unless you adjust it so there ain't full up-shift travel..

Max

[ViennaHog]

Never noticed that difference until today. Thanks Max, great info

[scoopfraser]

Thanks for all of the replies.  I re-adjusted the clutch yesterday and went for a ride.  It didn't act up at all...

I have a feeling it's in the transmission as well.  I forgot to mention it in my original post but was reminded by Derek's post about the physical feel of the shifter when engaging 3rd gear.  Usually, the gear change from 2nd to 3rd is pretty crunchy but recently it's become consistently smoother.

Earlier this season I had the transmission top cover off and I did the shifter pawl adjustment at that time so I'm confident that it's adjusted properly.

Thanks again.
Sean
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[truck]

Thanks for all of the replies.  I re-adjusted the clutch yesterday and went for a ride.  It didn't act up at all...

Does that mean it's fixed?

[Lawless]

I had a similar problem on my 2000 sporty.(Mine was 1st gear) It turned out the dogs on trans gears were worn. Replaced two defective gears plus two on counter shaft. No more problem. Not saying this is whats wrong with yours just something to check.

[scoopfraser]

Hey Truck,

I'd like to think it's fixed but I don't think my luck is that good 

I'll be out for another ride today so we'll see what happens.

[truck]