""""I don't need a TORQUE wrench, my hand is a TORQUE wrench"""""

[Ohio HD]

Ideally a wobbles end or universal transfers torque without gain or loss..  On a either theer can be an an issue if the angle is high enough to allow binding of the joint but as long as they are kept reasonably strait it's not and issue.. I once got into an argument with another mechanic that simple long extension would change TQ.. It don't..

Max

 
Sky's the limit as long as you keep it straight

I understand short extensions, and low torque values have no effect. But doesn't torsional (?) twist have an effect as the extension length and torque values increase?

I bet it takes a lot more torque to twist a "good" quality extension than you would ever need to use on the appropriate drive torque wrench. I've never twisted an extension, broke sockets and ratchets. But I truthfully only use good hand tools. My SAE tools are all Snap On, the Metric mix is mostly S&K and Craftsman. But 90% of all my extensions are Snap On, 1/4 through 3/4 drive.

[koko3052]

Ideally a wobbles end or universal transfers torque without gain or loss..  On a either theer can be an an issue if the angle is high enough to allow binding of the joint but as long as they are kept reasonably strait it's not and issue.. I once got into an argument with another mechanic that simple long extension would change TQ.. It don't..

Max

 
Sky's the limit as long as you keep it straight

I understand short extensions, and low torque values have no effect. But doesn't torsional (?) twist have an effect as the extension length and torque values increase?

We're talking harleys here. No torque values that high & the higher ones you can get at real close.
Yes, theorectally, the longer the extension the more torsional you will have.   

[Admiral Akbar]

I understand short extensions, and low torque values have no effect. But doesn't torsional (?) twist have an effect as the extension length and torque values increase?

It don't make any difference whether the extension twists or not. The tq at one end is still equal to the other.. It just might take a little more twist to get there but whats on the dial is whats on the bolt..

I bet it takes a lot more torque to twist a "good" quality extension than you would ever need to use on the appropriate drive torque wrench. I've never twisted an extension, broke sockets and ratchets. But I truthfully only use good hand tools. My SAE tools are all Snap On, the Metric mix is mostly S&K and Craftsman. But 90% of all my extensions are Snap On, 1/4 through 3/4 drive.

I've broken a number of breaker-bars in the past. Split a few sockets.. Not sure what a snap-on extension gets you.. Most of my extensions are Pittsburgh HF black oxide but I probably have 1 or 2 of most  other major brands and one Industro  .. I've broken a few ratchets. Most were the 3/8 drive snap on with a 1/4 body.. My 45 year old 3/8 New Britain ratchet finally died.. It started to slip..    Haven't broken an extension yet..

Max

[Ohio HD]

I understand short extensions, and low torque values have no effect. But doesn't torsional (?) twist have an effect as the extension length and torque values increase?

It don't make any difference whether the extension twists or not. The tq at one end is still equal to the other.. It just might take a little more twist to get there but whats on the dial is whats on the bolt..

I bet it takes a lot more torque to twist a "good" quality extension than you would ever need to use on the appropriate drive torque wrench. I've never twisted an extension, broke sockets and ratchets. But I truthfully only use good hand tools. My SAE tools are all Snap On, the Metric mix is mostly S&K and Craftsman. But 90% of all my extensions are Snap On, 1/4 through 3/4 drive.

I've broken a number of breaker-bars in the past. Split a few sockets.. Not sure what a snap-on extension gets you.. Most of my extensions are Pittsburgh HF black oxide but I probably have 1 or 2 of most  other major brands and one Industro  .. I've broken a few ratchets. Most were the 3/8 drive snap on with a 1/4 body.. My 45 year old 3/8 New Britain ratchet finally died.. It started to slip..    Haven't broken an extension yet..

Max

My first complete tool set was New Britain, they were good tools. Weren't they also called Bonnie? Most eventually got lost, broken, borrowed, etc. That was a long, long time ago. I have a handful of the sockets left in the misc. tool drawer.

[Breeze]

It don't make any difference whether the extension twists or not. The tq at one end is still equal to the other.. It just might take a little more twist to get there but whats on the dial is whats on the bolt..






That makes sense to me.    I had never thought it through, I just accepted what I thought was a fact.

[RKTOM]

I have a  tendency to over tighten everything or maybe I'm just too strong but in any event USE A TORGUE WRENCH!!

[Bill in OKC]

Is there some kind of sanity check to make sure your torque wrench is reasonably accurate before using it?  Anyone have any tricks/suggestions?  Thanks.

[War Horse]

Is there some kind of sanity check to make sure your torque wrench is reasonably accurate before using it?  Anyone have any tricks/suggestions?  Thanks.

Normally you would send them out to a calibration lab, I might get some chit for this but, if you bench mount a good beam style torque wrench and use an adaptor to the clicker style, using mid scale to verify calibration, will get you within + or -, 2%to 3% accuracy. Remember to mount the beam one by the handle (where you hold it).

This is by no means the same as having a company lab do it tho and is not a recalibration but a check of where the setting is taking you. Also remember that the most inaccuracies are at the high and low ends of the range on the clicker styles.

[wfolarry]

Is there some kind of sanity check to make sure your torque wrench is reasonably accurate before using it?  Anyone have any tricks/suggestions?  Thanks.

Normally you would send them out to a calibration lab, I might get some chit for this but, if you bench mount a good beam style torque wrench and use an adaptor to the clicker style, using mid scale to verify calibration, will get you within + or -, 2%to 3% accuracy. Remember to mount the beam one by the handle (where you hold it).
This is by no means the same as having a company lab do it tho and is not a recalibration but a check of where the setting is taking you. Also remember that the most inaccuracies are at the high and low ends of the range on the clicker styles.


That's how I check my clickers to make sure they're right.

[FLTRI]

My dad said to tighten 2 turns past strip then back off 1.
Bob

[Bill in OKC]

Thank you War Horse and wfolarry.  I will do this tonight.

[Scooterfish]

  with wfolarry & war horse on the "home test. I have also used sockets & adaptors to mate two clickers together for testing. Set at mid range & with equall force in each hand they should click at same time.