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S&S 126" Dyna build.

Started by Merc63, December 08, 2012, 02:03:58 PM

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Merc63

Heads are getting a little attention and reassembled, should have the engine in a couple more weeks.  Then some more waiting for HPI to release their 70mm throttle body.

Can't wait till spring to get this bad boy down the track.

Anyone have specific break in procedure on a Dyno?



2000 Dyna
126" S&S

tommy g

 :chop:  Yeah, well color me green with envy. Have fun with that fine riggin
09 FLSTC
85 FXEF

jam65

I hope it all goes smooth for you.So many little kinks get in the way.

FLHXHS

Somebody will chime in. I know that the heat cycles are important and once they're done change the oil. Then break ins vary from gently to kicking the hell out of it. (Seating the rings).

All I'm thinking is the multitude of oil changes to keep the metal out of the engine as best as possible.

126" is pretty cool. I'd like to increase the displacement of the 120r a little I get over the 2 Liter (2000 cc) mark...

Harry
2017 FLHXSE
2009 FLHX - DMC Sidecar - Tuned by Lonewolf

Merc63

Quote from: jam65 on December 08, 2012, 03:09:29 PM
I hope it all goes smooth for you.So many little kinks get in the way.

What issues did you have with the 117?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

Not so much engine wise.Conversion to chain was a bear.But on your build it seems to all been taken care of.But be ready for anything that might slow your assembly process.Fit and finish,a little grind and clearance,checking valve to piston and valve to valve ect.You never know till it's using gas.
I'm looking forward to your big azz build.Sorry about being negative but wish you the best.Keep us posted!

funracer2

dose S&S have a 70mm throttle hog i have the 66mm  :scratch:

Merc63

Quote from: jam65 on December 08, 2012, 06:53:38 PM
Not so much engine wise.Conversion to chain was a bear.But on your build it seems to all been taken care of.But be ready for anything that might slow your assembly process.Fit and finish,a little grind and clearance,checking valve to piston and valve to valve ect.You never know till it's using gas.
I'm looking forward to your big azz build.Sorry about being negative but wish you the best.Keep us posted!

I'm sure there will be some hiccups along the way.  The engine is a crate 126 with a few mods, assembled by SnS/ Star racing so I don't expect any problems there.

Piecing the EFI together will be the most painful process I believe.

Hoping it all goes smoothly,  I've been researching and reading on here for over a year leading up to this.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Quote from: funracer2 on December 08, 2012, 07:22:27 PM
dose S&S have a 70mm throttle hog i have the 66mm  :scratch:

I pm pretty sure they have a 70mm.

I'm using a 02-05 EFI system, so I have to wait for HPi to release their 70mm.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

N-gin

Wow that is a beautiful thing. Hope it goes smooth for ya!
Cheers. :pop:
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

Ohio HD

Quote from: Merc63 on December 08, 2012, 02:03:58 PM
Heads are getting a little attention and reassembled, should have the engine in a couple more weeks.  Then some more waiting for HPI to release their 70mm throttle body.


Dayam! Bet those heads are light, with those big holes in them!   :teeth:

Jaycee1964

Not sure you need the 70mm.  May be a bit touchy till you get above 3500.  You looking for a top end rocket?
If you have to stop and think about if it is right or wrong, Assume it is wrong.

Merc63

Quote from: Jaycee1964 on December 09, 2012, 05:45:22 AM
Not sure you need the 70mm.  May be a bit touchy till you get above 3500.  You looking for a top end rocket?

Ya I'm looking for some good HP numbers.  Talked to a few guys and they said to get the 70mm.
I guess I'll just have to be easy on the throttle.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ohio HD

Quote from: Merc63 on December 09, 2012, 02:06:25 PM
Quote from: Jaycee1964 on December 09, 2012, 05:45:22 AM
Not sure you need the 70mm.  May be a bit touchy till you get above 3500.  You looking for a top end rocket?

Ya I'm looking for some good HP numbers.  Talked to a few guys and they said to get the 70mm.
I guess I'll just have to be easy on the throttle.

Just have to ride it like it has an S&S B or D carb, slow roll off idle, then WFO!

Merc63

Anyone know a good break in procedure and wht oil to use?

I normally use amsoil syn.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ohio HD

Quote from: Merc63 on December 09, 2012, 04:18:01 PM
Anyone know a good break in procedure and wht oil to use?

I normally use amsoil syn.

Merc, Here's a heat cycle instruction from Zippers. I think it's just a little but of over kill, but then again, I'm sure they're intending it for motors such as yours, and not the common ever day mild build. Also I;m sure they have a little more experience than I do....    :teeth:

As far as oil, I like to use Castrol MC specific 20W50 to start them up and break them in. If a straight weight is wanted, I always like the Kendall GT oils.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

Buffalo

I'd follow the builders regime for oil and breakin. That would be S&S. I broke in my 124 TC following their rec, and its been perfect for 5 yrs and 42000klms.
S&S has the full proceedure in their tech articles. I would have asssumed you would get all that info with your new engine.  Buffalo  :chop:

pwmorris

Congrats on the motor- :up:
Use the Mototune/Baisley breakin method on dino oil-then switch it after break in to syn.
Then after running at the track, you will need to change that 11.5 1/4 mile signature you got there-you are
going to be alot faster than that.

Merc63

Quote from: pwmorris on December 10, 2012, 08:40:17 AM
Congrats on the motor- :up:
Use the Mototune/Baisley breakin method on dino oil-then switch it after break in to syn.
Then after running at the track, you will need to change that 11.5 1/4 mile signature you got there-you are
going to be alot faster than that.

Thank you, can't wait to get to the track.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

RKC100

Looks great merc63! I don't see how you can't enjoy that thing. Send more "engine porn" pics. good luck!!
03 RKC: 117 Built and dyno tuned by Steve @ GMR Perf 124HP-139TQ  FYI   S&S cyls

Merc63

#20
Motor is in, it looks great thanks to Derek at Star Racing for answering all of my 6,598 emails. :)

I can't believe how big the intake ports are, huge.  I guess these motors come with easy start cams, that I did not know. No need for compression releases.

I will try to get the engine in over the next few weeks.  Then my bro and I will be fabricating a custom 2-1 burns stainless stepped header/exhaust of Star Racings specs.  I'll be updating this thread along the way with pics as well.

EFI harness from Dan Thayer has been ordered along with DTT TCFI 4, HPI 62mm throttle body and injectors.

Will be installing a Bandit Sportsman clutch and once everything is together we will get some measurements for chain drive and order that from 3guyz.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

Hey Merc,when did they get another guy? :hyst:Just kidding.Looking forward to the outcome.

Merc63

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

m1marty

We do quite a few chain drives on our bikes here (hard ridden club bikes) and have found the PBI sprockets to work really well. Add an EK Racing ZZZ to the mix and it's about as bullet proof as it gets. On my last build (2008 dyna with a bit of work) I was running a 24T front and 55T rear w/ the ZZZ tying it together. Lots and lots of hard launches, high rpm shifts and general abuse- zero issues.
http://www.ekchain.jp/product/extreme_sport.html
http://www.shop.pbisprockets.com/category.sc?categoryId=2
OFFO

Merc63

#24
A little engine candy.

Does anyone know where the breathers are on the B2 heads? Are they in the same location as the S&S Super stock heads and harley heads in the front?



2000 Dyna
126" S&S

splitting_lanes


Merc63

Wife isn't impressed with it sitting in the living room! Oh well!   :hyst:
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

koko3052

Can always get another one of those! :hyst:

Merc63

#28
Ahhhhhhhhhhh and let the headaches begin..

Got the throttle body, wiring harness, DTT TCFI, sensors, etc in today...

The intake manifold fits somewhat, but there is one bolt hole on the flanges that will not line up with the hole, its off maybe 1mm or 2mm.  Im wondering if I should drill out the hole on the flange some to create room for the bolt.. But are the bolts and flanges used to line the manifold up with the ports? Will this throw it off?

I have a MAP sensor for the DTT TCFI... Except I have no MAP sensor port on my intake manifold now because one of the fuel injector bosses was cut and welded into where the MAP sensor port used to be...   :banghead:



Mine,





2000 Dyna
126" S&S

NCTURBOS

If you don't mind me asking...  Where did you round up all the sensors for the throttle-body, and how much $$$?  I'm in the same boat with the carb. to EFI swap and needing parts.

Thanks,

K.
-Boosted 95" B... 160.75-hp & 141.55-tq, 93-octane
-2017 FLTRXS... Stock

build it

Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Merc63

Quote from: NCTURBOS on February 15, 2013, 07:31:47 PM
If you don't mind me asking...  Where did you round up all the sensors for the throttle-body, and how much $$$?  I'm in the same boat with the carb. to EFI swap and needing parts.

Thanks,

K.

The money I have spent converting to EFI, I  SURE hope it was worth it!!! A Small fortune.

I bought everything from Dan Thayer.. TB, injectors, harness, DTT TCFI, all the sensors.

There is so many little things you need, that you dont think about and it starts adding up real quick!

IE, Needed a new stator and rotor from cycle electric for EFI, because the stock one doesn't put out enough juice... Another 400-500.

All the sensors, another 200-300.


I just hope it all works and is worth it... Maybe I should have tried the D carb on the street and seen how it was first, lol too late now.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Admiral Akbar

QuoteThe intake manifold fits somewhat, but there is one bolt hole on the flanges that will not line up with the hole, its off maybe 1mm or 2mm.  Im wondering if I should drill out the hole on the flange some to create room for the bolt.. But are the bolts and flanges used to line the manifold up with the ports? Will this throw it off?

:doh:

You need to trim the spigots on the throttle body.. Check and make sure you have the right flanges. Good luck as this is getting a little scary..

Max

Merc63

Quote from: Max Headflow on February 15, 2013, 07:51:20 PM
QuoteThe intake manifold fits somewhat, but there is one bolt hole on the flanges that will not line up with the hole, its off maybe 1mm or 2mm.  Im wondering if I should drill out the hole on the flange some to create room for the bolt.. But are the bolts and flanges used to line the manifold up with the ports? Will this throw it off?

:doh:

You need to trim the spigots on the throttle body.. Check and make sure you have the right flanges. Good luck as this is getting a little scary..

Max


Looks like they are the right flanges as they are oval.  The intake manifold fits fine without the flanges.. Do you think drilling out the hole some would work or are those holes used to line up the manifold to the port?

BETTER YET....

Cant get a socket around the head temp sensor, a normal socket isn't deep enough, a deep one is too long and hits the rear head..

A wrench wont work because the turn points are inside the head..

Looks like I have to pull the head off to get this sensor in... really!

Going to start drinking right away.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

build it

Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Merc63

Quote from: Max Headflow on February 15, 2013, 07:51:20 PM
QuoteThe intake manifold fits somewhat, but there is one bolt hole on the flanges that will not line up with the hole, its off maybe 1mm or 2mm.  Im wondering if I should drill out the hole on the flange some to create room for the bolt.. But are the bolts and flanges used to line the manifold up with the ports? Will this throw it off?

:doh:

You need to trim the spigots on the throttle body.. Check and make sure you have the right flanges. Good luck as this is getting a little scary..

Max

Max,

I had .020 taken off the heads.  Could this be why the intake manifold is not going on properly?

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

HogBag

#36
I went through a similar problem when fitting 05 heads on my 07 with the later throttle body. The Allen head bolts need to be modified to suit the manifold as the bolt head is to wide and to long to get the turn into the thread on the head. The two bolts on the throttle body side need the mods from memory. I used a bench grinder to remove the excess bolt head to get the turn needed to get the bolt square. 

FXDRYDR

Very cool and love reading the updates.  You'll work through all the little nits.  They're always there.  Going to be well worth it!

Merc63

Dan said to run a small hose from the barb that is plugged off to the map sensor.  Gonna give that a try.

Also trimming down the intake spigot and going to cut a socket shorter to get on this head sensor.  Back at it today, moving forward.

:koolaid4:
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

I took some off the intake manifold and got it on finally. Just sanded it down on a flat surface.

Throttle body and all the sensors, etc are bolted on. Got the 48amp stator and rotor on.

QUESTION:  Is there a specific orientation for the injectors to be turned?  Ive attached a pic.  I am not sure if it matters or not?

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ohio HD

Lookin good! As far as the injectors, where you have them is fine, they can be rotated around until the o-rings tend to get dry. When you fit the intake, did you leave a slight more room than just a precision fit between the heads? The reason I ask, is you want to allow for a little expansion and contraction room as the motor heats and cools. You really want the manifold basically suspended by the intake o-rings.

Merc63

Quote from: Ohio HD on February 17, 2013, 05:37:09 AM
Lookin good! As far as the injectors, where you have them is fine, they can be rotated around until the o-rings tend to get dry. When you fit the intake, did you leave a slight more room than just a precision fit between the heads? The reason I ask, is you want to allow for a little expansion and contraction room as the motor heats and cools. You really want the manifold basically suspended by the intake o-rings.

I shaved it enough that the flanges fit. Before shaving, it would fit without the flanges.  If the engine grew under expansion, wouldn't it grow longer and the cylinders farther apart??
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ohio HD

Quote from: Merc63 on February 17, 2013, 11:32:45 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on February 17, 2013, 05:37:09 AM
Lookin good! As far as the injectors, where you have them is fine, they can be rotated around until the o-rings tend to get dry. When you fit the intake, did you leave a slight more room than just a precision fit between the heads? The reason I ask, is you want to allow for a little expansion and contraction room as the motor heats and cools. You really want the manifold basically suspended by the intake o-rings.

I shaved it enough that the flanges fit. Before shaving, it would fit without the flanges.  If the engine grew under expansion, wouldn't it grow longer and the cylinders farther apart??

Yes, I believe it would. But it has to cool off sometime.  :wink:

hd06

 Looks good sitting on that hard wood floor   :up:  :wink:

Merc63

Quote from: hd06 on February 17, 2013, 05:11:26 PM
Looks good sitting on that hard wood floor   :up:  :wink:

Just doing a little work in the comforts of the living room... Wife not impressed.


Going to hook up the wiring harness tomorrow and fuel pump/ECM.  I have to wait for the tranny to get back from the shop, its getting new bearings and seals. Once its done, Ill throw the tranny and engine in and start piecing it back together.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Now would be a good time to back cut those gears-or better yet send the trans to R&D for the works.
Especially if you plan on running an electric shifter when you go to the track.
Nothing worse than missing that 1-2 shift at 6k plus...

Merc63

I dont think I am going to run the electric shifter.  Maybe down the road, for now I just want to get it back together and running/tuned good.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

TXChop

Am i drunk, or are the injectors upside down?

Merc63

Quote from: TXCHOP on February 18, 2013, 06:01:56 PM
Am i drunk, or are the injectors upside down?

LOL, could very well be. I have never installed injectors before!  I put the side with the plastic cap in the throttle body, I just assumed that was correct.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Quote from: TXCHOP on February 18, 2013, 06:01:56 PM
Am i drunk, or are the injectors upside down?

After re-inspection, yes you are correct.  I just assumed without checking the plastic cap would be on the output.

Thank you for pointing that out.  Probably would have fired it up and wrecked the injectors.

Max, was right this IS getting scary hah.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

JohnCA58

Quote from: TXCHOP on February 18, 2013, 06:01:56 PM
Am i drunk, or are the injectors upside down?


Yup,  saw that the other day.  :up:
YOLO

Merc63

Quote from: JohnCA58 on February 18, 2013, 11:18:59 PM
Quote from: TXCHOP on February 18, 2013, 06:01:56 PM
Am i drunk, or are the injectors upside down?


Yup,  saw that the other day.  :up:

Well why didn't you say something then??  :embarrassed:
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Admiral Akbar

QuoteI shaved it enough that the flanges fit. Before shaving, it would fit without the flanges.

Yes but obviously not in the right place.. Milling the heads may have been the problem but with a motor as this, this fit issue could be expected.

Max

Merc63

Had to get my tranny rebuilt.  Jim's door and a used 5 spd gear set from a member for now.

Finally got the tranny back, mounted it and the engine In the bike.  Starting to bolt everything back together. 

Will update as I go along.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

misfitJason

That looks amazingly beefy
2006 Dyna, Kraftech Evo Softail

FXDRYDR


Merc63

Finally got the chain drive ordered and in.  I got side tracked on another project.  Back on track here now.  I believe I have all the parts I need now, so I'll get putting everything back together.

Engine and tranny are in the bike, chain going on this weekend and primary, clutch etc.  hopefully have it fired up in 2 weeks or so.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Did some work organizing and running the wiring harness for EFI today.

Also installed the chain drive.  The rear spacer is too thick, I'm having it machined thinner tomorrow. 

Next weekend we are Fabing the exhaust up,  if anyone has any tips, let me know.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Exhaust is fitted and tacked.  Going to weld it tomorrow and put the 02s on it.

Should the O2s be spaced the same length from the head on rear and front?

The tank needs some paint and body work to cover the fuel pump cover.

Hopefully have it running in a week or two.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

ThumperDeuce

How about some details to go along with the exhaust pics?
Idiots are fun, no wonder every village wants one.

sfmichael

That thing looks mean...   :chop:
Colorado Springs, CO.

Merc63

Thumper, its a stepped header, 2", 2 1/8", 2 1/4", 17" megaphone from Burns stainless.

I wont post the lengths of the steps, because I got it from star and I am not sure if they want their pipe design all over the internet.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

Looks nice.We need some audio when you fire that thing up.I have an idea what it sounds like but still want to hear it.

Merc63

Jams,  I now know why you said I hope everything works out good.  Every time I put a new part on, something has to be cut or trimmed for clearence.  It's been a slow process, but it's starting to come together now.

I need to find a new seat and some new wheels and I think that covers just about everything.

Can't wait to go for a ride.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

ThumperDeuce

#64
Quote from: Merc63 on June 02, 2013, 08:24:50 AM
Jams,  I now know why you said I hope everything works out good.  Every time I put a new part on, something has to be cut or trimmed for clearence.  It's been a slow process, but it's starting to come together now.

I need to find a new seat and some new wheels and I think that covers just about everything.

Can't wait to go for a ride.

If you are going for performance it's hard to beat reducing rotational mass:


www.blackstonetek.com
www.lyndallbrakes.com/products/
Idiots are fun, no wonder every village wants one.

pwmorris

Quote from: Merc63 on June 01, 2013, 10:24:13 PM
Thumper, its a stepped header, 2", 2 1/8", 2 1/4", 17" megaphone from Burns stainless.

I wont post the lengths of the steps, because I got it from star and I am not sure if they want their pipe design all over the internet.
:up:
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on June 02, 2013, 08:49:48 AM

If you are going for performance it's hard to beat reducing rotational mass:


www.blackstonetek.com
www.lyndallbrakes.com/products/
:up:

Merc63

#66
Thumper, I've seen those.  That's something for down the road maybe. 

The rear wheel on this bike is like a boat anchor.  I wish someone made some nice looking aluminum wheels that had weight in mind.  I was going to get some pmfr wheels, but he stopped making them.  Maybe hogpro 8 spokes now. 
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

John/1

Hi,merc63 where about in cnd are you from thanks John

Barrett

 :up: What gear ratio did you go with?

Merc63

John, Alberta.

I used the stock gear ratio with the chain drive.

Inner primary is on.  Clutch hub is going to get pressed into the basket tomorrow. 

Exhaust is welded up.  Just need to mount the 02 bungs.

I have tuning booked for the end of the month so it's time to get my ass in gear.

Can't wait to get to the track and she what she will do.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

strokerjlk

Quote from: Merc63 on June 01, 2013, 09:37:49 PM
Exhaust is fitted and tacked.  Going to weld it tomorrow and put the 02s on it.

Should the O2s be spaced the same length from the head on rear and front?

The tank needs some paint and body work to cover the fuel pump cover.

Hopefully have it running in a week or two.


Nice work ! :up:
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

dynaglide

as I look at the picture of the rear wheel in the swingarm, it looks to me like you're gonna bend axles and dish the axle adjuster plates when you drop the hammer - you might want to think about bolting a Rivera outboard bearing support to your sprocket/wheel, as well as have adjuster plates machined from 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum for the swingarm.  :idea:

Merc63

Yes,  some retard tried to hide the axle bolt into the swing arm.

They opened up the swing arm hole on one side.  I tried to use a plate on the outside of the swing arm, but the nut dished the plate.  I'm going to try a big grade 8 washer.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Showdog75

Wouldn't mid controls be more conducive to track use?

Merc63

Quote from: Showdog75 on June 04, 2013, 03:23:28 PM
Wouldn't mid controls be more conducive to track use?

100%, but I have long legs and mid controls suck around town.  This is a street/strip bike.  I still take it on trips 1000km occasionally.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

dynaglide

you can have your cake and eat it, too... 

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

Merc63

#76
Bandit clutch is in.  Grey springs with 5 shims. 

Lever pull is pretty damn hard. 

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

IronMike113

I have the same clutch 5 shims same springs a lot say pulls like stock my ass, Hard as hell my is on a 131 ci but it work's but not like stock it need's to hook up at a early rpm not the lock up point of 3000 plus way to late in my book.When your hitting 150 plus TQ at that RPM,Just my thinking
2 Bikes and 2 Beemers, that's what I have been told 😳

HogBag

#78
Merc63
Man I cant wait to see this baby fire up. These will help the dyna frame with 150 square on tap.

http://www.sputhe.com/aluminum%20swing%20arms.htm

Merc63

Quote from: IRONMIKE103 on June 14, 2013, 09:18:59 PM
I have the same clutch 5 shims same springs a lot say pulls like stock my ass, Hard as hell my is on a 131 ci but it work's but not like stock it need's to hook up at a early rpm not the lock up point of 3000 plus way to late in my book.When your hitting 150 plus TQ at that RPM,Just my thinking

Ya it's wayyyy harder pull than what I had.  My GF can't even budge the lever lol.  She had to use two hands.  Maybe I should have went for something witha lockup...  It will be good for wheelies though.

What do you mean, it grabs at 3000rpm??
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Quote from: Merc63 on June 14, 2013, 11:45:13 PM
Quote from: IRONMIKE103 on June 14, 2013, 09:18:59 PM
I have the same clutch 5 shims same springs a lot say pulls like stock my ass, Hard as hell my is on a 131 ci but it work's but not like stock it need's to hook up at a early rpm not the lock up point of 3000 plus way to late in my book.When your hitting 150 plus TQ at that RPM,Just my thinking

Ya it's wayyyy harder pull than what I had.  My GF can't even budge the lever lol.  She had to use two hands.  Maybe I should have went for something witha lockup...  It will be good for wheelies though.

What do you mean, it grabs at 3000rpm??
Is that just a Sportsman or a Superclutch?
Put a lock up hat on it and get rid of those grey springs-
John at Bandit can get you a simple 3 finger-you don't have to go with a MTC multistage or anything complicated.
Don't buy the hype that you need the 150 ft lbs as soon as you dump the clutch-all it will do is make you wheelstand or your rear tire will spin all day. Who cares if it slips out of the hole? You ain't luggin' a gun totin' mama on back of a fully dressed bagger, fully loaded, headin' out of town or motor testin' all day on the dyno (even if you are, I have put the stiffer springs in my clutches when dyno testing which works great)...
Clutch slip is your friend...clutch slip when I dump my street clutch is one of my tricks to own the guy next to me who spins his rear tire and gets left behind :wink:

Merc63

#81
I believe it's a sportsman.

What's the difference?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Quote from: Merc63 on June 15, 2013, 12:16:25 AM
I believe it's a sportsman.

What's the difference?
Since you have a sportsman, it looks like it doesn't accept a lockup hat. Looks like you have to run what you got, unless you can exchange it-
I ran the whole Superclutch set up, with a 3 finger single stage hat on my Bandit set up several years ago-
200 hp no problem but it won't fit under a stock primary, so you have to either mod the derby cover (see pic) or get a nice billet one from Barnett for 1K.
If you can exchange what you have, I would go with a complete Superclutch with lock up, or Barnetts lock up clutch that fits under the stock derby cover (see GMR's write up on it in the Twin Cam section), the Rivera Pro with AIM's adjustable lock up hat on it (which also fits under the stock cover with a minor mod), Or you are going to have to live with that Gorilla clutch pull and learn to finesse the clutch lever out of the hole. It can be done with practice but it's easy to smoke the pack when you repeatedly do that.
SPORTSMAN SERIES
Retains stock shell, sprocket, and bearing. Includes center hub, snap ring and clutch pack (including - (1) thick steel backing plate, (8) thin steel driven plates and (9) Kevlar friction plates, pressure plate assembly, adjusting screw with lock nut, mainshaft nut, (6) spring cups, (6) standard springs, (6) heavy duty springs, (6) spring collars and (6) spring nuts). Ready to install. Will not accept lockup.


COMPLETE SUPERCLUTCH   Chain primary drive only. Includes clutch shell with ring gear and sprocket, (12) drive keys with hardware, center hub, sealed double row bearing, snap rings, mainshaft nut and clutch pack (including - (1) thick steel backing plate, (10) thin steel driven plates, (9) friction plates of your choice, pressure plate assembly, adjusting screw with lock nut, (6) spring cups, (6) standard springs and (6) heavy duty springs, (6) spring collars, and (6) spring nuts). Some assembly required. Some clearance modifications to the inner primary case and primary cover are required. Will accept but does not include a lockup unit. Installation of a lockup requires longer studs in the center hub - please specify when ordering clutch. Lockup will not fit in stock primary case.


BANDIT SUPERCLUTCH W/3 FINGER HAT


MODDED PRIMARY COVER TO ACCEPT LOCK UP


BARNETT BILLET COVER


Merc63

Ill run it for now and see how it goes.

Back in the garage today. Hopefully I can fire it up, I pray sll the efi wiring is correct.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Good luck-
You have one of the baddest street/strip Vtwin crate motors on the planet-It needs all the support items around it to really shine-

Merc63

Thank you sir, you have been a great help.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Barrett

I'm sure glad you guys don't live in my neck of the woods.. :embarrassed:

Merc63

Well I got the bike started.  The front o2 is reading really lean, 19afr.  I'm not sure if its because my bro mounted it with the sensor pointing up with it angled with the exhaust flow...

I tried switching the sensors around and also the fuel injectors.  Nothing seemed to help.

As I look over the data log, I seen the pulse widths of the injectors pretty close to each other, the front being slightly higher.  So it doesn't make sense why it would be running lean in the front if they are both getting the same fuel pulses..

I'm going to remove the exhaust and change the front o2 location and see if that helps.


I have to get the muffler for this thing, it's ridiculously loud.  When it first fired up it nearly broke my ear drums, they are still ringing.

I definitely have a huge learning curve ahead of me with this DTT system.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

I got a new starter and all my starting issues have been resolved, thank God.

Ive been trouble shooting an issue with the WEGO and TCFI telling me the front cyl is running lean. I hooked up a secondary standalone AFR monitor and the front jub is running in tune with the rear. I believe either the WEGO or the ECM isn't reading the signal properly.  Im going to exchange one or both.

I have the TPS and IAC adjusted good and the bike starts and idles nicely in open loop, which is a relief.  Oil pressure is good at around 25-30lbs at idle.  No leaks and everything else looks good so far.

My tuner wants to tune the bike and shut the closed loop feedback down, but others are saying this is not a good idea... anyone else have experience with this?

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Took the bike out for a spin, trying to get a few clicks on it before tuning on wednesday.

my wego is faulty so I turned off closed loop and tried to get a decent enough map to ride it around a bit and break it in.

The tune is no where close to optimal, but it pulls damn hard, I could barely stay on the seat.

the bandit clutch with grey springs and 5 shims grabs nice and hard.  After riding it a bit, the pull isnt as bad as I first thought.  Its firm but not too much.

the burns stainless exhaust is just stupid loud.  Kids on the sidewalk were rushing to cover their ears when I came by.  Lots of ppl staring, wondering what's making all the noise.  Ill probably end up getting the megaphone with the baffle for the street and keep the other one for the track.

If everything goes smooth at tuning, I should be able to hit the track this friday night. Cant wait.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ohio HD

Good deal! Been a long time coming for you.    :up:

ThumperDeuce

Quote from: Merc63 on June 23, 2013, 05:55:55 PM
Took the bike out for a spin, trying to get a few clicks on it before tuning on wednesday.

my wego is faulty so I turned off closed loop and tried to get a decent enough map to ride it around a bit and break it in.

The tune is no where close to optimal, but it pulls damn hard, I could barely stay on the seat.

the bandit clutch with grey springs and 5 shims grabs nice and hard.  After riding it a bit, the pull isnt as bad as I first thought.  Its firm but not too much.

the burns stainless exhaust is just stupid loud.  Kids on the sidewalk were rushing to cover their ears when I came by.  Lots of ppl staring, wondering what's making all the noise.  Ill probably end up getting the megaphone with the baffle for the street and keep the other one for the track.

If everything goes smooth at tuning, I should be able to hit the track this friday night. Cant wait.

Is the current megaphone you made un-baffled?
Idiots are fun, no wonder every village wants one.

Merc63

Yep it's an unbaffled straight pipe and it's LOUD.  It rings my head in my full face helmet.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Quote from: Ohio HD on June 23, 2013, 06:08:04 PM
Good deal! Been a long time coming for you.    :up:

Yep, it's been awhile!  Glad it's finally running.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

HogBag

Very nice
It sounds great with the megaphone but way to loud for the road. I bet it would break windows at WOT and set of every car allarm in a two block radius at half throttle.
Thanks for the video  :up:

sfmichael

Colorado Springs, CO.

HD/Wrench

Try a Barnett clutch cable its good to reduce some of the lever pull .. double liner cable cheap and works great.

tommy g

Good luck Merc, who is going to tune it for you?
09 FLSTC
85 FXEF

Buffalo

  Glad to see and "HEAR" (maybe) you got that sweet 126 fired up.
Now be honest, did you really think at any time this monster engine with a pro street styled pipe would be quiet!!!!!!!! hehe. Good job Merc. Get a muffler, get 'er tuned. Buffalo

Ohio HD

Wow, that bike doesn't sound angry, it sounds pissed!   :teeth:

I'm sure gonna stay out of it's way...     :wink:

Merc63

A few pics.  Still need to paint the tank and figure out how to cover the fuel pump.  Also need to get some different rims and it's done.



I took some scotchbrite and polished the pipe a bit.





2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Quote from: tommy g on June 24, 2013, 08:33:14 AM
Good luck Merc, who is going to tune it for you?

A fellow named Doug from Ronin motorcycles.  He is supposedly really good.

Track Friday night if everything works out with the tune.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

build it

#103
Just heard it, problem was on my end, you're going to get a ticket everytime you ride it. LMFAO. :cheers:

It'd be interesting to hear the guppy on a similar 126", I've only heard one once on a smaller engine with very different heads than the B2s.
Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Buffalo

  That is one sweet ride!!! What part of Canada do you hail from. Two reasons to ask, first is I want to know where I might encounter the beast. Second, I want to know when I'll need several sets of earplugs!!! hehe
Nice work Merc.  I'm in So Ontario with my "baby" 124.  Buffalo

Merc63

Thanks buffalo.  Been a lot of work. 

Im over in Alberta.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Buffalo

 Well at least I won't hear from here. I lived in Calgary from 79 to 99, been back 6 times to visit friends and daughter. Hope to get back there next year. Nothing quite like the prairies!! Awesome scoot!! I want one!! Buffalo

tommy g

  :agree:Yeah,,,, I could go for one a them also!
09 FLSTC
85 FXEF

Merc63

Off to tuning bright and early tomr, wish me luck.  Dyno sheet to follow, hopefully it hits my goal.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

sfmichael

good luck...should hit your goal or come VERY close

sweet bike  :up:
Colorado Springs, CO.

jam65


garyajaz

initial start up idle sounds like a M-60

Merc63

Tuning now. Should be done today.

Tuner is using a 4 gas analyzer and tuning every throttle position.

made 66ft lbs at 2000 rpm 22.5 percent throttle so far.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Can anyone suggest timing settings on dtt? I have it on 2 and 2.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Well we put in 4-5 hours tuning today. We never got around to touching the timing.

My tuner doesn't know the DTT system very well so I kind of screwed myself when I didnt enter the correct estimated horsepower and the DTT system wouldn't let us increase the Alpha N map anymore.. Its not running lean, 13afr WOT at 6000rpm, but tuner said he would like more fuel at the upper rpm before touching the ignition timing...

I have a lean issue at cruise that still needs to be resolved and a big rich spot at 3500rpm that kills the power...  Im going to send him an email and see if he can suggest anything for me to edit. (hes 1.5hours away)

He uses a Factory pro dyno and 4 gas... From what he's said and talking to other guys his dyno will read lower than a dynojet...?

I have the timing set at 2 and 2 for now.. Im not sure what most guys run for timing on the DTT... or what rpms the two curves effect.. I have to do some reading in that area.

The guy who made me the EFI harness and sold me the DTT, suggests running the system in closed loop and letting the WEGO build the map.  My Wego looks like its faulty, so im exchanging it and going to let the new one build and map and see how that goes.

Everyone has a different opinion, open loop, closed loop, 4 gas, O2 sensors, etc... very confusing... Kind of miss my carb now LOL.  I think once the tune is dialed in perfectly it will all be worth it.

Still made decent power, 148.5rwhp at 6000rpm and 138.5rwtq at 5000rpm.  I think if the ignition gets tuned and we take it to 6200rpm with some more fuel it will come up a bit more.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

tommy g

Looks like good numbers though, eh? Its gonna be fun hanging onto that riggin!
09 FLSTC
85 FXEF

Ohio HD

Looks great Merc, I bet it's a handful to ride.   :up:

I'm definitely not a tuner, but in my opinion, if that were mine, I would probably opt for open loop. Simply because it's not built to ride all over the country on trips, or concerns for good fuel mileage, and defiantly not for emissions. Both open lop and closed loop have their places, and use.

Merc63

It sucks, the only tuner that's decent hates this dtt.  Everyone else around here doesn't have a clue.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

build it

Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Merc63

I dont see why not if I have a stock ecm.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

#121
Added a bit of fuel to the cruise positions and it seems to be much better..

I am not sure whats going on, if its the pipe, heads, cam, etc or all, but I am taking fuel out of 3000-3500rpm @ 100% throttle like crazy compared to everywhere else.  Maybe I have a big torque dip there??  It can definitely feel it while riding, it has good low end power then mellows off and takes off again once I hit 4000rpm.

Anything over 4000rpm and I better be holding on tight or im flying off the back.


How many KMs should I put on the engine before I switch to synthetic oil?   I have about 300km on it now.  I just did a oil change at 250km.


I see why some people don't like the larger throttle bodies, its like an on off switch if im trying to cruise around the city. 
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Buffalo

 I can't help to think that this "short stroke" ( by normal HD standards) may not require anywhere near the advance on the ignition as others.
It may not be relevant, but when I did my 88 to 95"with HC pistons and cams, the timing only required a single step up to get it perfect. Advancing it farther caused a big loss in power right where yours is now! mine ended up with stock advance with 2 degrees pulled out on the top end. 2 and 2 may already be too much advance.
Just food for thought. Buffalo

Merc63

Thanks buffalo. Ill try one and one and zero zero.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

#124
Went to the track tonight. Perhaps that was a mistake without the bike running/tuned 100 percent.

Not impressed at all to be honest.  Ran 11.3 my best time, MPH is only 118-120, was expecting way more.. I know the bike isnt completely tuned, but like a bit of timing and afr tweaking is going to make a big difference... Im right back to running what I was with my old 120", except the bike is 1000x louder.

Basically spent a bunch of cake to get right back to where I was... feel like banging my head into or through a wall.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

build it

Don't bang your head against a wall or be discouraged. If the bike were tuned properly you still wouldn't run any faster perhaps even with more power. Factory Pro is historically a very low reading dyno, and you simply aren't done tuning or learning how to launch the bike.

Post the new sheet and the old sheet with same et. I can't help you but someone will.

You're on a brand new bike. Remember that :)
Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Merc63

Quote from: build it on June 29, 2013, 04:32:19 AM
Don't bang your head against a wall or be discouraged. If the bike were tuned properly you still wouldn't run any faster perhaps even with more power. Factory Pro is historically a very low reading dyno, and you simply aren't done tuning or learning how to launch the bike.

Post the new sheet and the old sheet with same et. I can't help you but someone will.

You're on a brand new bike. Remember that :)

Im not even concerned about the ET and launching at this point, its the MPH that tells me power output and currently im sitting right where I was with my old 120".   I put a lot of research into this build and honestly I am not impressed at all right now. I know tuning isnt 100percent, but lets be realistic, tuning isnt going to net me 10more mph at the track which I should have got with another 35-40rwhp.

I could care less about dyno numbers, the track tells the true story and right now it isn't looking pretty.

Im running 148rwhp on a dyno that maybe reads low, but still thats corrected to sea level.. In reality im running much lower.

My old engine was dynod on a dynojet with 125hp with DIN correction, I am not sure if that is corrected to sea level or not.. Ill have to ask the guy.

Just a really really frustrated right now with this build.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

koko3052

Are you going to run this next weekend? :scoot:

John/1

Every 10 hp you gain you should lower your et by a 1/10.Every 10 lbs you drop should lower your et by a 1/10.What was your 60'

Merc63

Really 10lbs makes that much of a difference.. time to lose some weight on this pig bike.

My 60 was only 1.9, this torque dip at 3500rpm is usually right where I launch... so it falls on its face there.  I was trying to launch at 4000rpm, but the clutch was dragging and pushing me forward.. Yes front brake, next time.

My whole issue is the MPH... I think its low, its the same as my old engine. 

Star said to increase redline to 6500rpm, im going to try that and I got some advice from DTT on ignition timing... I think my timing might be too low as well...

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

strokerjlk

QuoteI could care less about dyno numbers, the track tells the true story and right now it isn't looking pretty.
Ain't that the truth. Amen pass the biscuits!
Keep at it you will get er there .
When you get your new wego , let it pull that fuel . Trust the wego and see what it does .
If Your puddling so much fuel on the low end it just MIGHT need to go lean in the middle . Or it is just the nature of the pipe/ head / cam / T/B. to take a dip . But you should  be able to smooth the cruise out . If your tuner isn't wore out on this yet . Let him keep plugging away . Sounds like he is getting familiar enough with it to smooth it out . I feel for him . You got some stuff going on that wears a guy out . He has some good numbers there . Now you collect the data at the track and get the WOT dialed in for the track .
What MPH and ET are you looking for ? What gear and rpm are you running through the traps ?
Clutch hooking up good ? Air shifted ?
Try shifting at 6500 and see what your MPH is 
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

John/1

Hey merc don't get frustrated,keep at it there will be high lows its all good.

Merc63

Quote from: strokerjlk on July 01, 2013, 08:31:15 PM
QuoteI could care less about dyno numbers, the track tells the true story and right now it isn't looking pretty.
Ain't that the truth. Amen pass the biscuits!
Keep at it you will get er there .
When you get your new wego , let it pull that fuel . Trust the wego and see what it does .
If Your puddling so much fuel on the low end it just MIGHT need to go lean in the middle . Or it is just the nature of the pipe/ head / cam / T/B. to take a dip . But you should  be able to smooth the cruise out . If your tuner isn't wore out on this yet . Let him keep plugging away . Sounds like he is getting familiar enough with it to smooth it out . I feel for him . You got some stuff going on that wears a guy out . He has some good numbers there . Now you collect the data at the track and get the WOT dialed in for the track .
What MPH and ET are you looking for ? What gear and rpm are you running through the traps ?
Clutch hooking up good ? Air shifted ?
Try shifting at 6500 and see what your MPH is

Honestly I was think mph would be in the high 120s.  I'm going to try 6500rpm, some timing switches and let the wego build the map.

Clutch seemed to grab really good, no chatter.  It would lift the tire or spin when I hit it into 2nd.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

John/1

Quote from: Merc63 on July 01, 2013, 08:05:43 PM
Really 10lbs makes that much of a difference.. time to lose some weight on this pig bike.

My 60 was only 1.9, this torque dip at 3500rpm is usually right where I launch... so it falls on its face there.  I was trying to launch at 4000rpm, but the clutch was dragging and pushing me forward.. Yes front brake, next time.

My whole issue is the MPH... I think its low, its the same as my old engine. 

Star said to increase redline to 6500rpm, im going to try that and I got some advice from DTT on ignition timing... I think my timing might be too low as well...

Did you get a chance to get to back to track if so any update

Merc63

John , no.

My wego is faulty.  I returned it a week ago.  The guy said he was going to send a new one when I sent mine back and now I haven't heard from him for a week.

I want to let the wego build a map, load a different timing map and crank the redline to 6500 and let her rip.  I also need a muffler, I have some nasty reversion at 3500rpm where it falls on its face.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

strokerjlk

Quote from: Merc63 on July 09, 2013, 10:22:02 PM
John , no.

My wego is faulty.  I returned it a week ago.  The guy said he was going to send a new one when I sent mine back and now I haven't heard from him for a week.

I want to let the wego build a map, load a different timing map and crank the redline to 6500 and let her rip.  I also need a muffler, I have some nasty reversion at 3500rpm where it falls on its face.

The only problem I ever had with a wego was , one channel quit working .
It was within the first year of purchase . DTT looked it over , and sent me a new unit.  This even included new sensors . :up:.
Do your sampling with the timing map you want to run .
Or you will need to sample again if you change your timing .
I can't say for sure about your pipe , because I didn't sample it .
But reversion will not cause it to fall on its face . Every combo has some kind of reversion somewhere .
It will cause you to have to make decisions , where the reversion occurs.
This is tuning ,and it isn't always straight forward .
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

Merc63

Ya thats what happened to my wego. It wouldn't read the front jug.

Ive got an ignition map im going to run and let the wego build the map like u suggest.  Just waiting for the new wego to arrive.


also ordering a supertrapp and going to try that for the time being. 
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

New wego is in, but its not saving blms now...  Getting sick of this dtt, I don't have time to become a master of it to get it running half decent...

Super trapp muffler is in, Welding it to the collector tomorrow and will report back with impressions.  Hopefully it cures this dip I have.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Things are finally starting to come together.

I welded a 5inch SC superstrapp muffler to my collector.. WOW what a difference! 

The torque dip is completely gone. The bike runs 10000x better, it starts better, everything.

Low RPM riding is smooth as butter and so is everywhere else.

I was so impressed I just went riding all over for a hour or so and when I got home the BLMs saved now, which is a relief.

I applied the BLMs and put them back to 100.


With the megaphone the bike was so erratic, idle, everywhere...  I can't believe the difference.

My only complaint is the bike sounds like a Goldwing now, its so quiet I can actually hear the engine and people talking around me. lol

Next step is to log some more riding and let the wego do its work. Also, going to grab some .030 washers and space out the discs for some more flow.  Im running 24 discs with the closed end cap.  After its done tuning, Ill throw it on the dyno and set the timing and see what it likes in regards to discs, etc.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

I should have got the brushed muffler, but they were out of stock for at least 6 weeks, damn snow will be here in 6 weeks, went with the polished.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

scoopfraser

Merc, if you haven't already, consider getting an open end cap for that muffler...
2000 FXD
Edmonton, Alberta

Merc63

Quote from: scoopfraser on July 25, 2013, 05:59:32 AM
Merc, if you haven't already, consider getting an open end cap for that muffler...

Can't hurt, I'll order one up.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

1931jamesw

Glad to see its finally coming around for you, Merc. V-Twins are the most exhaust sensitive engine I know of, by far! Amazing how much a pipe change can make a difference and probably the biggest player in tuning a bike IMO. Did you ever hear from Marc Salvisberg? He owns Factory Pro and I think he said he was going to contact you. I told him about your 4 gas tuning experience. He is a 4 and 5 gas tuning guru.

Merc63

Quote from: INDEPENDENT 1 on July 25, 2013, 10:23:34 PM
Glad to see its finally coming around for you, Merc. V-Twins are the most exhaust sensitive engine I know of, by far! Amazing how much a pipe change can make a difference and probably the biggest player in tuning a bike IMO. Did you ever hear from Marc Salvisberg? He owns Factory Pro and I think he said he was going to contact you. I told him about your 4 gas tuning experience. He is a 4 and 5 gas tuning guru.

Yea he pmd me, we chatted a bit, smart guy.

I'm shocked how much of a difference this muffler made.  It's a totally different bike now.

I can't wait to get it on a Dyno and set the timing and play with the discs/end cap.


2000 Dyna
126" S&S

HD/Wrench

Something else that you can try.. Is to add length to the collector that is a very short set up. I am betting that there is more there with a longer length. 

Merc63

Thank you, I will look into that.

I cutthe collector on the weld going into the megaphone where it was 3 inches.  Past the weld it started to taper out.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

sfmichael

Quote from: Gmr-Performance on July 26, 2013, 06:12:43 AM
Something else that you can try.. Is to add length to the collector that is a very short set up. I am betting that there is more there with a longer length.


+1   :agree:

probably pick up some bottom end power and torque...pretty sure you won't have much   :teeth:
Colorado Springs, CO.

HD/Wrench

I understand what you are saying on the taper. However you may find that with a long 2.5 or 3.0 tube what ever fits over that and start about 12 inches long make a pull and look for the change and then cut it back .. It will come down to testing on the dyno and a few large band clamps for the down and dirty testing session. But the gains will never be found with out looking for them.  :teeth:  With your set up no way would I stop there I would look into adding plenum volume once you get the pipe very close. Dont weld it up just yet as you may find even further gains to get every last bit of power out of that engine. The small things will add up a few extra with the slip on a few with the longer collector and few with a spacer.. in the end you have another 9+ that will put a smile on your face knowing you have gone the distance and know for 100% that the engine is making running up to par and then some. :)

I own so many test pipes that are really rough looking from this very type of testing. I in the the works now on my own 120R ( so far from crate its not even close)  that I was heading for a new Maxi charger but those guys are still not up to speed so its going to be a 12.1 640ES + ACR cam set up for now( should roll over like butter with both systems on line ;)  ). Have a zilla with several cores, zilla with 4 and 5 inch supertrap, mega zilla that will also get the trap set up, 66 mm FBW 58 oval FBW  and last but not least 1.7 rockers also .. I have my work cut out but looking for a 150+ bagger.

Ollies930

I think you will find that you lost a bunch of top end to smooth out the mid rpm power dip with the new muffler. With the heads you have, you need to pull some rpm to utilize them, as a matter of fact your dyno chart has not peaked at 6000rpm. You should have no issues running her up to 7000rpm or so with the megaphone, which will probably put your shift point around 500rpm past power peak. The reason you are seeing low mph is not for lack of peak power, but the fact that your shift point put you into the hole in your power curve at the start of every new gear. What mph shows you is not peak power, but average horsepower.

Merc63

I turned it up to 6500rpm.  Its still pulling hard over 6000rpm from my butt dyno.

7000rpm seems like lots for a vtwin???


I have to play with the exhaust discs and end cap on the dyno to get it to flow enough for the top end and get decent back pressure to smooth out the mid range.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ollies930

7000rpm is not that much for the new style flywheels and valvetrain geometry. I have a 124" with 4.375" stroke that I turn past 7000 with some fairly heavy pistons on an evo valvetrain. Mike Roberts supposedly turned his 124" S&S evo (4.625" stroke) near 8000 in top gear out the back door. You don't have to worry so much about flywheels shifting out of phase anymore, 1.5" pressed pins, not 1.25" with tapers and nuts. Which incidentally is the same sizes as used for the NHRA pro stockers that have very large pistons and turning close to 10000rpm, albeit with a very short stroke.

Merc63

What about the valve train and my valve springs with 1.725s on intake?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

#152
Merc,7k is pushing it for a street bike unless you want a new build in the near future IMHO.You might find some more in that area but I wouldn't want to be there all the time. I have not heard of many Harley owners that play on a regular basis at the RPM's. Yours might be an exception.

Ollies930

You cannot compare a hopped up Harley engine to a S&S 126. Totally different quality parts.

jam65

Yep, take it from Ollies and find out where she likes to run.

Merc63

Ill wait for a reply from Star racing before I touch the rpm anymore.

It sure feels like it will pull more.

I took the discs and cap right off. According to my BLMs and Alpha N table, it asked for more fuel above 4500rpm with the cap and discs gone. 

Ollie, what are you running?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

I wish you the best Merc. You are vested into this build and need to take what ever measures it needs to get her running to full potential. As they say, if it was easy everyone would be doing it.

Merc63

Youre right jams. Im already pot committed.  Its going to take some effort.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ollies930

Merc, I am running a 120 Merch engine with a 4.375" stroke (hence 124") lightened S&S flywheel with 1.5" pin and aluminum pro stock rods. 12.5-1 compression with a Wood W75 cam, 2.2in intake and 1.7" exhaust valves, custom made open pipes and S&S Super D. Runs on 91 octane and has made 176hp and 166ftlbs with a much smaller lift cam. Wish I could make B2s fit, but according to S&S they cannot machine them for my stud spacing.

1931jamesw

#159
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Merc63

Quote from: Ollies930 on July 27, 2013, 09:40:04 PM
Merc, I am running a 120 Merch engine with a 4.375" stroke (hence 124") lightened S&S flywheel with 1.5" pin and aluminum pro stock rods. 12.5-1 compression with a Wood W75 cam, 2.2in intake and 1.7" exhaust valves, custom made open pipes and S&S Super D. Runs on 91 octane and has made 176hp and 166ftlbs with a much smaller lift cam. Wish I could make B2s fit, but according to S&S they cannot machine them for my stud spacing.

Very nice.  Whats your redline?

Is this in a dyna?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Most BLMs have stabilized but some are still moving around.  Im wondering if the the blms will ever fully stabilize..

They seem to be going up and up about 4000rpm, especially in WOT.

Bike seems to be running stronger.


Does the torque curve follow the fuel curve?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ollies930

I have no concerns turning 7500rpm(missed a few shifts up there), but the power has signed off long before then. Its in a Confederate America GT.

Merc63

Star has said the 126 can handle 7000rpm.

Ill see if it makes any power that high once we hit the dyno.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Ollies930

Remember, you will probably see your best et/mph by shifting 4-500rpm past peak power.

strokerjlk

Quote from: Ollies930 on July 29, 2013, 04:58:18 PM
Remember, you will probably see your best et/mph by shifting 4-500rpm past peak power.
:up:
Any new time sheets merc?
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

Merc63

Not yet, Ive got the wego tuning, I think its pretty much done, BLMs are pretty stable.


I have to hit the dyno and set the timing and play with the exhaust, end caps, open discs, etc.  Im running it straight through right now and its running great.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

strokerjlk

QuoteIm running it straight through right now and its running great.
Tq curve be damned .... I bet the best peak Hp will be with.....No disks and a open end cap
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

jam65

Just curious Merc. Why didn't you have Burns do a Baffle can with what you had in pipe dimensions. I have yet to get into an issue with my pipes sound level. Maybe it has something to do with several Harleys on my block. :nix:

Merc63

I went with what Star said for the pipe... The unbaffled megaphone is ridicolously loud and I had a huge torque dip at 3500 from no back pressure.

Im running the stepped header with a 5inch supertrapp SC with no discs or cap and it sounds good and feels like it is pulling pretty hard.

I just sent all my engine info into vince at burns to see what his program spits out.. I might grab the baffled megaphone from them and throw it on to see what it does...


I just went out for a rip and turned the redline to 7000rpm. It feels like it pulls right to 7000rpm... I noticed that when I shift into second gear it takes off from 2nd a lot harder, must be landing right in the power band better..

Its a handful to hang onto once its gets up over 4500rpm in first and second.  Hits 70-80mph in no time.

I can see from my fuel curve at 100% throttle that it still has a small dip at 3500, but it can't be felt.  According to the fuel map, peak torque is at 4500rpm and goes out to about 6500-7000rpm.

It seems to be running pretty good now.  Im curious if I will do better at the track now. Maybe Ill go out friday night to street legals and see what it will do before I hit the dyno.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

Sounds like your getting what you are looking for. These bikes are just getting their legs on at 3 to 4k. Maybe Jim can give his opinion on the sound of the Burns baffle. Mine is a pretty raspy thing coming out of the driveway but I don't spend much time in the city limits. I know that your season is limited being north but it is always a project in the works. Let's hope you get to where you want to be before the snow flies. And get those E.T.'s that will give you peace of mind.

Merc63

#171
Stepped header with 5inch supertrapp no disc or cap.. Sound clip.

Click Picture to go to video.

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Quote from: Ollies930 on July 27, 2013, 09:40:04 PM
Merc, I am running a 120 Merch engine with a 4.375" stroke (hence 124") lightened S&S flywheel with 1.5" pin and aluminum pro stock rods. 12.5-1 compression with a Wood W75 cam, 2.2in intake and 1.7" exhaust valves, custom made open pipes and S&S Super D. Runs on 91 octane and has made 176hp and 166ftlbs with a much smaller lift cam. Wish I could make B2s fit, but according to S&S they cannot machine them for my stud spacing.

If you could get the B2s to fit, what would be your build??  Why do you want to run the B2s?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: strokerjlk on July 29, 2013, 09:19:28 PM
QuoteIm running it straight through right now and its running great.
Tq curve be damned .... I bet the best peak Hp will be with.....No disks and a open end cap

So Jim, with the Trapp sub for the megaphone, do you think it was over exhausting?  :wink:

Max

Ollies930

Quote
If you could get the B2s to fit, what would be your build??  Why do you want to run the B2s?
Much better castings than what I have, could make them flow more than mine and I would be able to increase the minimum cross sectional area on the intake port. I am currently limited to 2.95sqin which limits my hp peak to around 6400rpm according to my engine analyzer programs. With the B2s I could make them peak around 6800-7000rpm, keeping everything else more or less the same.

build it

#175
Sounds like a "potty mouth! "cat. It's pretty unreal how quiet the trap can will make a large header.

Merc, do you know what your MCSA is presently?

Potty mouth should've been kittycat.

MCSA is minimum cross sectional area.
Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Merc63

2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Merc,
I really like the sound for riding on the street with the cap removed-still strong sounding but nowhere near as loud for a daily driver.
Lets hope it makes the HP up top then you have a winner.
I think it's quieter than my Guppy meg with baffle, which still is pretty loud-more raspy. Without the baffle, it's IMO too loud to drive around town on a daily basis like yours was with the Burns.
I would be interested to see what Burns sounds like with their baffle-never heard one. I didn't even know they made a baffle meg.
As you may know, I simply remove the baffle for track days, adjust jetting, and I'm good to go. Get home, baffle goes in, re jet, and I'm hitting the town.

jam65

Paul, I have the baffle in my Burns pipe that is like stainless steel wool. It is loud by most standards but people who have ridden behind me say that it's not that bad. I offered to ride in the back of the group so....
  There is a video/sound of my pipe in the dyno section.

Merc63

Called Hpi today snd they actually make a 1 inch spacer for only the 62mm TB.  Got one ordered, shoukd be here in a few days.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

Super trapp doesn't even make a open end cap for the SC 5 inch muffler. 

I think I'll try it with no discs or cap and maybe try washers between the 24 discs and closed end cap and compare Dyno sheets when the time comes.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Quote from: jam65 on July 30, 2013, 12:33:41 PM
Paul, I have the baffle in my Burns pipe that is like stainless steel wool. It is loud by most standards but people who have ridden behind me say that it's not that bad. I offered to ride in the back of the group so....
  There is a video/sound of my pipe in the dyno section.
I think I found it-Nice sound.
Jay's 117 burns pipe
Not too loud really-only kissed the throttle a little but still didn't sound too crazy.
When you say steel wool, is it packed in some kind of tube?
Here's the Guppy baffle-This is the old version and I think they made some improvements on it but I don't have the new version.





Merc63

Whats the diameter through the baffle?
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

jam65

It's 3 inches through the baffle and has loose scrubble packed inside the can.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

pwmorris

Quote from: Merc63 on August 01, 2013, 11:22:31 AM
Whats the diameter through the baffle?
Mine is 2" thru the center of the baffle but does also allow flow around the baffle as well.
! Private video

John/1

#185
Quote from: Merc63 on July 31, 2013, 10:29:15 PM
Super trapp doesn't even make a open end cap for the SC 5 inch muffler. 

I think I'll try it with no discs or cap and maybe try washers between the 24 discs and closed end cap and compare Dyno sheets when the time comes.

5" open end caps at sumit racing

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

Merc63

First run of the night, did a 11.0 at 122mph.

airs nice and cool and will get better, DA is 3200ft.

1.79 60 ft. Got some work to do on my launch.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

Merc63

I could not for the life of me beat my first run at 11.0.  Maybe I started launching too hard, it kept wanting to wheelie.

Highlight of the night was watching a guy on a BMW s1000rr and his buddy on a Yamaha r6 laughing at the old Harley sitting beside them.  Second or third run I was lined up with the BMW and gave him a beating, not by much but a win none the less!  Next run was his buddy who I walked on by agood half a second or more.


The BMW if you don't know has 190+HP crank and weighs 450lbs.  Just looked up the stats and it's supposed to run 1/4 mile: 9.57 sec @ 251 km/h (156 mph)..  He was only doing 11.15s or so at 132mph with a 2.0 60ft.   

Those stats on the BMW and what it was running at this track show ya that my 11.0 is pretty impressive for a harley.  I still haven't had Time o put the bike on a Dyno either yet too. 


I'm doing half a second faster than my old 120" so I am pretty happy with the performance of this 126"now.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

sfmichael

Colorado Springs, CO.

strokerjlk

QuoteI'm doing half a second faster than my old 120" so I am pretty happy with the performance of this 126"now.
good to see merc :beer:
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

rob71458

Quote from: Merc63 on August 30, 2013, 11:06:27 PM

Highlight of the night was watching a guy on a BMW s1000rr and his buddy on a Yamaha r6 laughing at the old Harley sitting beside them.  Second or third run I was lined up with the BMW and gave him a beating, not by much but a win none the less!  Next run was his buddy who I walked on by agood half a second or more.

I love it! :up: :bike:
2007 SERK 124, S&S jugs,SE110 heads,640G's,11.5, 58/62 HPI,Bandit,DD7,Bzilla

mr_natural78

that's awesome! congrats on a killer build. sounds like a blast to ride.
2000 FXDX, 113ci, HTCC CNC heads, 116hp/127tq

Merc63

Next step is to hit the Dyno and set the timing and get rid of these ugly boat anchor wheels.  Literally the rear wheel and tire weighs 50lbs+.

Thanks for the comments guys.
2000 Dyna
126" S&S

pwmorris

Great job,
You are finally getting a taste of Star Racing power!
There's alot more there-It's a 10 second bike all day with practice, and how good you get at launching it and how much you tweak the rest of the bike will dictate how deep in the 10's you go-