Mild build on my FXR4

[fxr4mikey]

here's the build specs:

•   SE Heads
•   Cometic .030 head gaskets
•   Bob Wood W6 cam
•   Rivera taper-lite chromolly adjustable push rods
•   Sifton max axle lifters
•   Chrome lifter blocks -  whoo hooo…….. chrome doo dads  
•   Mikuni HSR42 carb
•   Compu-Fire Single Fire Ignition (installed in June)
•   Pro-Force One AC and breather kit
•   Change INA cam bearing to Torrington
•   S&S reed style breather valve

started a couple of weeks ago - I'm in no hurry, and am taking my time, and having FUN FUN FUN !!!

The tear down is complete and I started working from the bottom up this afternoon putting her back together .... here's this afternoon's play

OK, here's some photo's from todays work

here's the OLD camshaft oil seal being knocked out


here's the old, and new oil seal on the bench
the damage you see on the old one is from being removed, it actually didn't have much of any wear on it, but it's a 50 cent item to replace and takes 2 minutes


here's the new oil seal going in ... used a socket the size of the seal and hit it with a dead blow rubber mallet to seat it in the cam cover, EASY STUFF


oil seal after the install ... this is the inside of the gear housing cover, also called cam chest cover


stock INA inner cam bearing on the left, torrington replacement bearing on the right ..... I like the one on the right  :huepfenjump3:


what I'm showing here is the view through the hole where the inner cam bearing is installed ... look through it, you see the crank in the background .... when you want to 'REMOVE' the bearing, make sure to rotate the crank so that it IS NOT ALIGNED with the bearing .... I'll show you that in the 2nd pic from here


crank rotated so that it IS NOT aligned with the cam bearing ... this allows you to put a PILOT BEARING PULLER into the bearing for removal
you can't really 'see it' in this pic, but there is A LOT more room behind the cam bearing when you rotate the crank so that the crank arm is not directly behind the bearing



installing the new cam bearing ... use assembly lube, set the bearing in the hole firmly with your thumbs, one in the cam chest, the other from the top through the lifter block hole


use the butt end of a wooden hammer to start setting the bearing


after I gave it a few light taps with that, I put the thrust washer on the OLD CAMSHAFT and inserted it into the bearing.
Then I hit the end of the camshaft with a rubber dead blow hammer .... I drove it in until I thought that it was seated, checked it with a flashlight
you can BARELY see the lip of the seat when the bearing is in.




after the bearing was set, I put the cam cover back on and checked the camshaft endplay .... this assured me that the bearing was fully seated. My measurement came back eggzactly to what it was prior to removal of the INA bearing ..... .010 inches ..... I was a HAPPY CAMPER   :huepfenjump3:




then I removed the cam cover and the gasket, and installed the reed breather valve, EASY EASY, put some assembly lube on it and slide it in the hole, how easy is this stuff !



then I installed the camshaft ..... now I have to tell you..... it took me 20 minutes OR MORE, and phone calls to Doofves and gZINTAs (Thanks Paul and Mark!!!) to find the dayum timing mark on the pinion gear ... and you MUST have this alignment mark if you EVER think this bike will start again    :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:



this mark on the left side is for the timing mark if you are using the 'timing dependent' breather valve, which I'm not



here's the gear chest with the new camshaft, with the orginal cam gear, new torrington bearing and S&S reed valve, all ready to be buttoned up .... dump assembly lube on everything, and then after the cam cover goes on pour 1 pint of clean/new motor oil down through the lifter block hole. This will provide lube to the gears on initial startup before the oil pump gets oil in there.



here's some misc pics of the garage while working on the bike .... you might notice the TWO important items on the workbench   :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:

[ClassicRider2002]

Keep us posted Mikey~~~

Looks great

Regards,

"Classic"

[guido4198]

Thanks for the awesome pics. and excellent descriptions of the job. 
I sawthe two important things you mentioned also..but I gotta tell ya...You must be a damn quick wrench is this was only a 2-beer job..!!!

[Old Crow]

Thanks for the awesome pics. and excellent descriptions of the job. 
I sawthe two important things you mentioned also..but I gotta tell ya...You must be a damn quick wrench is this was only a 2-beer job..!!!

I took the beers as one important thing,, and the big light as the second.  My eyes are getting old, you see.

[tinkerman]

Ah "Potty mouth" Mikey,

Great Photos and explanations. I wish I had seen this about 10 days ago. The description of moving the crank pin out of the way to remove the cam bearing would have saved me a bunch of work.... but well past that now.

About that reed valve. I was just going to use an OE plastic timed valve for my top end rebuild as the motor is pretty tame, (EV 27, Dyna single fire, S&S Super E.....) What do you see as the advantage to the reed breather VS the timed breather.

Excellent thread for someone that hasn't looked at the internals of a EVO before...keep the pics coming until you get her sewed back up.

Thanks,

Tinkerman

[Bucket]

Good job Mikey, Don't forget the spring on the reed. I installed one with an ev 27 and adj. pushrods. Waiting on heads to come in and will be where you are now  Good luck   keep the pic. coming

[CraigArizona85248]

Awesome!  Thanks for the photos and description.  Always nice to see the build details.

-Craig

[fxr4mikey]

Thanks for the awesome pics. and excellent descriptions of the job. 

Thanks Guido !

I saw the two important things you mentioned also..but I gotta tell ya...You must be a damn quick wrench is this was only a 2-beer job..!!!

[fxr4mikey]

Ah "Potty mouth" Mikey,

Great Photos and explanations.

Thanks Tinkerman !!!!!

I wish I had seen this about 10 days ago. The description of moving the crank pin out of the way to remove the cam bearing would have saved me a bunch of work.... but well past that now.

Yes, I saw that in your other post ..... that was some extra work for you for sure !

About that reed valve. I was just going to use an OE plastic timed valve for my top end rebuild as the motor is pretty tame, (EV 27, Dyna single fire, S&S Super E.....) What do you see as the advantage to the reed breather VS the timed breather.

I'm not 'sure' that there is a NOTICALBLE advantage over the timed stock breather .... I like the idea that with the reed valve it can breathe WHENEVER there's vaccum to cause it, and it doesn't have to wait for the piston to be in the 'correct' part of the cycle to do so ..... let me ask it to you this way ..... WHY does the MOCO put a 'TIMED' breather in there anyway ?  what's the advantage of having a 'timed' breather ??  Why wuldn't you want the crankcase to breathe whenever it needed to ?

Excellent thread for someone that hasn't looked at the internals of a EVO before..

Yes, it's not really for guys like you, that have been in there many times before and already know more about it than I ever will. But now you take a guy like Elvislee ....  He's never seen the inside of the cam chest before ..... Have ya Blaine  ..... not that that is bad, just that for some who have never been here, they might find some help in the postings.

.keep the pics coming until you get her sewed back up.

Yup, will do .... I hope to have my jugs and pistons and rings by Tuesday, and riding by the weekend   

Thanks,

Tinkerman

[fxr4mikey]

Good job Mikey, Don't forget the spring on the reed.

Yes, Thanks !  I have it sitting right there, and will stick it on the valve just before I put the cover on it, tomorrow 

I installed one with an ev 27 and adj. pushrods. Waiting on heads to come in and will be where you are now  Good luck 

Thanks !

keep the pic. coming

Will do !

you'll have to let us know how your doing when your parts get there  ....... right ?  Thanks !   

[fxr4mikey]

Awesome!  Thanks for the photos and description.  Always nice to see the build details.

-Craig

Thanks Craig .... maybe they'll help out someone that's working though a build, I'm having fun with it   

[ClassicRider2002]

Do we want to talk about bolts here?



Never mind.....lol

Regards,

"Classic"

[elvislee]

Ah "Potty mouth" Mikey,

Great Photos and explanations.

Thanks Tinkerman !!!!!

I wish I had seen this about 10 days ago. The description of moving the crank pin out of the way to remove the cam bearing would have saved me a bunch of work.... but well past that now.

Yes, I saw that in your other post ..... that was some extra work for you for sure !

About that reed valve. I was just going to use an OE plastic timed valve for my top end rebuild as the motor is pretty tame, (EV 27, Dyna single fire, S&S Super E.....) What do you see as the advantage to the reed breather VS the timed breather.

I'm not 'sure' that there is a NOTICALBLE advantage over the timed stock breather .... I like the idea that with the reed valve it can breathe WHENEVER there's vaccum to cause it, and it doesn't have to wait for the piston to be in the 'correct' part of the cycle to do so ..... let me ask it to you this way ..... WHY does the MOCO put a 'TIMED' breather in there anyway ?  what's the advantage of having a 'timed' breather ??  Why wuldn't you want the crankcase to breathe whenever it needed to ?

Excellent thread for someone that hasn't looked at the internals of a EVO before..

Yes, it's not really for guys like you, that have been in there many times before and already know more about it than I ever will. But now you take a guy like Elvislee ....  He's never seen the inside of the cam chest before ..... Have ya Blaine  ..... not that that is bad, just that for some who have never been here, they might find some help in the postings.[/b]
.keep the pics coming until you get her sewed back up.

Yup, will do .... I hope to have my jugs and pistons and rings by Tuesday, and riding by the weekend   

Thanks,

Tinkerman

Hey Mikey...As I said earlier; this whole writeup, documentation, and pics on your build is outstanding! For a guy like me who can't lay claim to the title of a shade tree mechanic; I appreciate and take seriously every post on this build. My 4 only has 10k miles on it so a cam is not in the stars right now. When I start getting around that 25k mark I am gonna consider hard in throwing one in and I WILL need all the help I can get; trust me when I say all this stuff is being saved printed and placed in a binder for future use. Again, a great job man  Now on a serious note...............................CLEAN THEM DANG BOLTS MAN!! 

[tinkerman]

Actually,

This is the first time I have looked at the insides of an Evo. Used to hang with a fellow (RIP) that ran a shovel so had a snoop around in there once or twice, know the Brit bikes not to bad, (Nortons for the most part, Triumphs a little bit) and have gutted a number of Jap bikes over the years. Mostly growing up I was into four wheels (gotta love that old duster).

Anyway with all that said I find your original post very interesting and look forward to a few more posts from you as you put it together. I am away for a bit and won't get at mine until early March so you will likley get yours back together before me.

Keep the photos coming and good luck with the build,

Tinkerman

Oh Ya, What's with the "clean the bolts" thing? I'm missing something here.

[rdkng]

Thanks Mikey.. nice pictures and project.  Brings back good memories
for when I built my 89inch stoker motor.    A couple comments, 
one thing I did was after all was done, I turned the motor over via rear
tire with oil filer off to insure I had the oil pump correct.
I also put probably 8 oz of oil into the case, which got puked out..
4 oz may be about right
for grins, all of my bolts were cleaned and either lubed or had antisieze
on the ones that were steel going into alumnium.. I dont know if that's
any great idea, but I liked it.   
Looks like you have a nice shop.. so Enjoy !  & keep us posted
rdkng

 

[ClassicRider2002]

Yeah Mikey......what's with the clean bolts thing? what are we missin here.....

Regards,

"Classic"

[fxr4mikey]

 
clean the bolts .. I don't know, seems somewhere, someone asked me if I was wire brushing all my bolts before I re-installed them .....

I challenged the thought ....

I will make sure that my head bolts are clean, and the rocker box bolts also.

[ClassicRider2002]

Well there you have it....."BOLT GATE" solved.....

Ummmmm Mikey could I put in a request for a picture of you cleanin them bolts.....ummmm maybe you aren't taking requests though......? ? ? ?

No rush......whenever....

On a serious note.....this is a great thread....it does take a lot of time to take photos, post photos, and then describe what's going on......so I appreciate your effort......just as we all do......GREAT EFFORT!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

[Herulf]

Great read and pics.

Always on topp topic?

my first post 

[elvislee]

Great read and pics.

Always on topp topic?

my first post 

Well welcome aboard Herulf  Ya picked the perfect thread ta post on...Now....maybe you'll/we'll get lucky and see Mikey wire brushin them bolts that Tim mentioned  .........Hey Mikey...Your doin a GREAT job man 

[Buddy WMC]

Mikey,
Great job and nice looking scoot  . What brand and length rear shocks are you using?
Thanks....

[fxr4mikey]

Great read and pics.

Always on topp topic?

not ALWAYS ..... LOL..... why do you ask ?

my first post 

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey,
Great job and nice looking scoot  . What brand and length rear shocks are you using?
Thanks....

brand is FOX, they do not make them any longer for 'street' bikes .. they're big in off road stuff
they are 12 inches eye to eye
VERY GOOD shocks !!

[fxr4mikey]

Yesterday I did up her bottom end   

most of this stuff is for the 'new guys' that have never done this, but are thinking 'maybe' me too some day ...  so the rest of you just enjoy the pics   :roflback:

here's my new lifters soaking in an oil bath (20w-50w) ... they been in this bath for about 3 weeks. The reason you do this is that the lifters have to be filled with oil BEFORE you try to adjust them. You can soak them, the oil will flow into the lifters, or you can use a oil squirt can and squirt the oil in there .... I don't have an oil can and didn't want to spend 10 bucks for one just for this job .... find a plastic dish and put them in there.  Be sure to put some saran wrap or something over them ... oil COLLECTS dust and dirt ... you don't want that in your lifters.
you can actually see some of the air bubbles coming up in the oil, you can see my pretty face in there too     :roflback::woohoo:



Then I set about to clean off the old gaskets from my rocker boxes. 





you think that those old paper gaskets aren't 'HARD' / 'TOUGH' ..... look at this razor blade  ... it's was NEW when I started


then I set about to clean up the cases where the lifter blocks mount .. some of you should be HAPPY now   LMFAO  !!!!!!!


then I set about to install the lifter blocks and lifters
Here you see the block gaskets ... HD stuff, one is silver, one is gray, you CAN NOT mix them up, the silver one goes on the rear cylinder, SIMPLE is as SIMPLE does   LOL

for those of you who might not know, you have to use an ALIGNMENT tool when you install the lifters. This insures that the oil passage in the cases are aligned with the holes in the lifter blocks, and more so, that the lifters are aligned properly with the lobes on the cam shaft.
In the above picture you can see the little black alignment tool, it is in this picture only to hold the gasket in place while I was taking the picture.
The way you do it .... put the gasket on the bottom of the lifter block, install the lifters and blocks onto the case, install the alignment tool in the hole next to the oil passage (I use two alignment tools .. in opposite corners) then install the two bolts, torque them down, remove the tools, insert the last two bolts and torque them down


first lifter block installed ..... CHROME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   :woohoo::woohoo:  GOES FASTER !!!!!!!!!!!

I did it this way so I could put my fingers in the cam chest to hold the lifters in the blocks while I lowered onto the case.  On the second one I just bent a paper clip and hooked it onto the retaining ring lip and pulled the lifters up against the top of the block while I lowered it onto the case ..... didn't want to drop one of them into the cam chest.  I closed up the cam chest before I installed the second lifter block because I used that hole to dump 1/4 pint of oil into the cam chest

putting the oil in ... used a funnel because I had the oil in a dish that the lifters were soaking in







putting on the second lifter block... you can see the alignment tool on the lower left of the block .... nice torque wrench huh   :woohoo: :woohoo:


both sets of lifters installed - cam and breather valve installed



Tomorrow, or the next day, when I post up pics you'll see why I did it this way ....
I want to clean up my cylinder studs and I wanted to  close up the cam chest and cover the lifters cause I don't want any of the debris from that job to get inside .....

[BKACHE]

Gerat thread.
Thanks
2 things though.
1- when the cam bearing was installed - is it flush wn the case? I was told to resess it a bit. That is how it gets oiled - oil drip down from the case inner to the opening above the thrust washer.
2- A clean / organized shop is the sign of a sick mind

[ricochet]

Awsome job of posting pics and descriptions.  Valuable info here and clear shots.  Noboby dare mention the color coordinated aspect of this shop.  The man loves red, right down to the shop rags, tools and oh yea, the bike.   

keep it coming.

ricochet

[tinkerman]

Hey Mikey,

Great job man....on the bike and on the thread. Just got off the phone with the folk that have my cyls and heads. Cyls done, and ready to put in the new valve guides, Yaa Hoo. I am glad I sent the parts to these fellows. Not to many folk in my neck of the woods that are into the Harley thing in a serious way but this guy in particular has been working on HD machines for 35 years. Ya gotta love it.

Just phoned to see how things were going and spent a half hour discussing base leaks (they will check my cylinder bases for me) the Super E carbs (that damn off idle hesitation) and motors in general. This fellow is an Evo fan just because he believes that the evo delivers more buildability, simplicity and bang for the buck. Can't wait to get back home and start sewing her back up.

Keep up the good work on your build and on this thread,

Tinkerman

[Buddy WMC]

Just phoned to see how things were going and spent a half hour discussing base leaks (A) (they will check my cylinder bases for me). (B) The Super E carbs (that damn off idle hesitation) and motors in general. This fellow is an Evo fan just because he believes that the evo delivers more buildability, simplicity and bang for the buck. Can't wait to get back home and start sewing her back up.

Keep up the good work on your build and on this thread,

Tinkerman

Tink,
(A), They can square the cylinder bases up on a lathe or lap them. I'd also recommend installing the Hayden "Oil Fix" return jets while you are at it.

(B), That can be fixed very easily. Most of the time the accelerator pump is not adjusted properly. If you can't get it right, I'll fix it 

[tinkerman]

Hey Buddy,

How ya doing?

Discussed the Hayden fix with that fellow and he doesn't feel it is a bad idea but he suggested in his experience that the oil journal in the cylinder and the case don't always line up perfectly which can complicate installation. They are going to check my cyl bases and said he would prefer to check my cases and deck them as well. His preferred installation method using the James metal base gasgets that I am using is to install them dry and break the engine in with some care. Says this has given him good results over the years. I am still considering using some hylomar.

As to the S&S Super E. I have played with and rebuilt the accelerator pump and checked for intake leaks. The next theing I was going to do was start playing with my jets. The fellow I was talking to said that the off idle hesitation (pretty minor) is pretty standard with the S&S unit and they have gotten around it by cutting a small (not sure how big) groove in the throttle plate which helps with the transition between circuits. If I can't improve the carb with jet tinkering early in the summer, I might be tempted to give him a shot at it if I happen to be out his way. His shop is about four hours away. I have been riding the bike for four years as is and have learned to live with it as it is only a minor prob. I can actually minimise it by idling the engine up a bit as I discovered while tinkering with it.

Anyway, it was good to have a talk with a fellow that is in to the Harley thing. I live out in the boonies and aside from this site I don't have a lot of resources for feedback on the Heritage. This fellow didn't exactly echo the general concencus on all issues that exist on this board but I figure that is part of the deal. Different strokes for different folks.

As usual, appreciate the input... go easy,

Tinkerman

[Buddy WMC]

Tink,
I used the Hayden jets with my big bore cylinders and the James base gaskets with no fitment problems. Best money I ever spent was to have my engine dynoed. I'd suggest that you or anyone else do the same. How do you know where you are going, if you do not know where you are at? After nine pulls and the required adjustments we now know exactly where the bike is at and what can be done to make a couple of improvements.

[tinkerman]

No arguement here Buddy.

I have heard a lot of fellows say good things about the Hatden jets and as for the dyno I am sure it is a great help in dialing in an engine. I just don't have ready access to one and even if there was one kicking around I still just might keep on doing the seat of the pants mechanics that I have always done. No way I can do as good a job as a dyno and I have nothing against the technology....it's just that if at 80 mph I still have a good handful of useful throttle left on the old Heritage (and the plugs have good colour) she is where she needs to be for me. Pretty basic I guess but I am a pretty basic guy. Now I am sure that a dyno would identify the prob with that off idle hesitation I have with that S&S Super E  in quick fashion but I daresay this summer or next I will track it down as well.

Just different strokes for different folks I guess.

In any case, take it easy.

Tink

[fxr4mikey]

Gerat thread.
Thanks
2 things though.
1- when the cam bearing was installed - is it flush wn the case?
There is a LIP in the case, you can only set the cam bearing so far into the case, until it hits the lip.  I should have taken a picture of that .... I'll look through my stuff, I might have a shot where I can point that out in the picture.
It is CRITICAL that you get the cam bearing all the WAY TO THE SEAT (lip).  If you don't do this, the cam will not go far enough into the chest and you will not be able to seal the cam cover on.   If you re-read that section in my thread, you'll see that I had measured the cam end play BEFORE I opened the cam cover. Then, AFTER I put the new bearing in, I put a gasket on the cam chest, put the cover on it, torqued it down with 3 of the bolts, and re-measured the cam end play.  My results were EXACTLY the same as BEFORE I swapped out the cam bearing.  This provided me with the assurance that I had the cam bearing SEATED where it was supposed to be, and exactly where the stock one had been.




I was told to resess it a bit.
again, it will only go in so far


That is how it gets oiled - oil drip down from the case inner to the opening above the thrust washer.
2- A clean / organized shop is the sign of a sick mind
HAHAHHAHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA          THANKS !!!!!!!!!   

[fxr4mikey]

Awsome job of posting pics and descriptions.  Valuable info here and clear shots.  Noboby dare mention the color coordinated aspect of this shop.  The man loves red, right down to the shop rags, tools and oh yea, the bike. 

keep it coming.

ricochet

  Thanks !!

my cars, are both pickup trucks .. both Dodge ... a 1998 1/2 ton, FIRE ENGINE RED ... 2003 3/4 ton  FIRE ENGINE RED   

somein about RED that I REALLY LIKE     

[fxr4mikey]

no progress today   

I went out to work on it this morning... with all expectations that I might have it back together today/tomorrow, and the my battery cable would be in on Monday ....

HOWEVER ... first thing, right off the bat ... I started to put some oil on the cylinder studs, and found that on the front cylinder, the front left stud was loose ...

so much so that I unscrewed it and removed it from the case with my thumb and finger ....

soooooooooooo, I read the manual to find out how to install the studs ..... make a couple of phone calls, THANKS PAUL !! (littlebear) .....

I've decided to replace the entire set of studs. SOOOOOOOOOooooooooooo a trip down to the stealers place (I was going into town anyway) .... nope, not in stock ... he has 3 in stock THREE what's up with that ... someone replace ONE stud ... OK, well, I'm putting in a new set of SE studs. 50 clams, they will take a bit more compression than the stock studs, and should I ever build it up more I'll be good in this space.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooo, I call my Indy and tell him to order me a set, 49.99 .... he says that he should have them by Monday or Tuesday ......... sooooooo the build is on hold AGAIN

[Sc00ter]

Awsome job of posting pics and descriptions.  Valuable info here and clear shots.  Noboby dare mention the color coordinated aspect of this shop.  The man loves red, right down to the shop rags, tools and oh yea, the bike. 

keep it coming.

ricochet

Thanks !!

my cars, are both pickup trucks .. both Dodge ... a 1998 1/2 ton, FIRE ENGINE RED ... 2003 3/4 ton  FIRE ENGINE RED   

somein about RED that I REALLY LIKE     

EVERYONE knows red bikes are faster!!!  

[fxr4mikey]

javascript:void(0);
Sinking
Gerat thread.
Thanks
2 things though.
1- when the cam bearing was installed - is it flush wn the case? I was told to resess it a bit. That is how it gets oiled - oil drip down from the case inner to the opening above the thrust washer.
2- A clean / organized shop is the sign of a sick mind

OK, you made me go look..... cause I'm OLD and can't remember stuff more than 3 days ....


Here's a picture with NO bearing installed, you can see the lip that stops the bearing from being pushed through and into the crank side of the case
You can also clearly see the 'relief' in the face of the case for oil to get between the thrust washer and the cam shaft, which will flow into the bearing



Here's a picture of the cam bearing being installed.  You'll see the 'relief' cut out of the face of the case ... when the thrust washer comes to rest on the face of the case, oil can run down into that relief and get onto the camshaft ... AS LONG AS THE BEARING is inserted BEYOND THE FACE of the case,  Hence the IMPORTANCE of insuring that the bearing is FULLY SEATED


here's a picture that was taken when I was talking about the breather valve .. however you can see the cam bearing in this picture, and you can see that it recessed beyond the face of the case - WHEW !!   



Thanks for you question !!!  It made me go look at the picture to double ck that it was in far enough.  I knew that I had seated it, but I also knew that I had used the thrush washer on the end of the old cam .... that being the situation it might have stopped right at the face of the case.  However I seem to recall, but can't swear to it... that to make sure I seated it, I took the washer off and only used the cam to seat it finally.

Your question was VERY GOOD, one it made me dbl ck my work, second, it educated me.  I never really thought about where/how the bearing got oiled

Thanks !

[fxr4mikey]

Gerat thread.
Thanks
2 things though.
1- when the cam bearing was installed - is it flush wn the case?
There is a LIP in the case, you can only set the cam bearing so far into the case, until it hits the lip.  I should have taken a picture of that .... I'll look through my stuff, I might have a shot where I can point that out in the picture.
It is CRITICAL that you get the cam bearing all the WAY TO THE SEAT (lip).  If you don't do this, the cam will not go far enough into the chest and you will not be able to seal the cam cover on.   If you re-read that section in my thread, you'll see that I had measured the cam end play BEFORE I opened the cam cover. Then, AFTER I put the new bearing in, I put a gasket on the cam chest, put the cover on it, torqued it down with 3 of the bolts, and re-measured the cam end play.  My results were EXACTLY the same as BEFORE I swapped out the cam bearing.  This provided me with the assurance that I had the cam bearing SEATED where it was supposed to be, and exactly where the stock one had been.




I was told to resess it a bit.
again, it will only go in so far


That is how it gets oiled - oil drip down from the case inner to the opening above the thrust washer.
2- A clean / organized shop is the sign of a sick mind
HAHAHHAHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA          THANKS !!!!!!!!!   

As I thought about this last night and this morning, it seems clear to me that that statement is incorrect. The thrust washer and shim stock, with the thrust washer on the face of the cam determines how far in the cam goes, not the position of the bearing in the case....... since the cam shaft could go ALL THE WAY through the bearing, except that it has a shoulder on it that goes up against the shim stock, which is up against the thrust washer, which rest up against the face of the case ......
The position of the bearing, as long as it is AT LEAST flush with the face of the case (it needs to be fully seated beyond the face of the case) will have no effects of measuring cam shaft end play.

Thanks for you question !

[psyco369]

I bought I tool set when I did mine and "IF" I remember correctly the bearing installer set it counter sunk like .030 I could be wrong
wait I will go look at the installer brb...........ok after looking at my tool there is about .030 offset in it I am not sure if it HAS to be offset but I think you should find out I would hate for you to have a problem with it after all that work.....I will take a pic of the tool for you

I hope this helps not that you want to tear into you cam chest again but if you need this offset better to find out now 
oh and you will like that S&S read valve mine seems to breath much better since I installed it

[fxr4mikey]

I bought I tool set when I did mine and "IF" I remember correctly the bearing installer set it counter sunk like .030 I could be wrong
wait I will go look at the installer brb...........ok after looking at my tool there is about .030 offset in it I am not sure if it HAS to be offset but I think you should find out I would hate for you to have a problem with it after all that work.....I will take a pic of the tool for you

I hope this helps not that you want to tear into you cam chest again but if you need this offset better to find out now 
oh and you will like that S&S read valve mine seems to breath much better since I installed it
KEWL !!

Psyco - THANKS for posting up that info, and the pic !   I would rather chk this now, rather than find out later that I didn't get it right.  I'm gonna to remove the front lifters and see if I can see it with my mirror. If not, then I'll have to open the cam chest again      better now than later with a problem, peace of mind goes a LONG WAY

[tinkerman]

When I installed the new cam bearing in my evo (with Torr. stamp pointing towards you) I just tapped it in with the back end of an appropriately sized socket (flat surface area) until it seated in the case. I know there is a press in tool available as well but after checking out the bearing which I could push in about 1/4 of the way and testing my method with a few light taps it seemed to me that it was going in pretty smoothly. I just continued to tap it lightly till I felt and heard that difference in the rebound that is evident when the bearing seats.

Not sure if this is Kosher or not but have installed a lot of bearings and bushings over the years in this way. Now the cam bearing is a little light duty in construction which I kept in mind as I didn't want to distort the bearing outer race. But it went in very smoothly with very light taps. Might not be by the book but I am feel confident that the bearing is good to go. The rollers are turning smoothly and all looks good.

From memory my bearing is sitting just inside the machined surface much the same as indicated in the pics posted by Mikey. I will check the cam clearance as well but waiting for the cam cover gasket to arrive. But again, as stated earlier it is not the can bearing that affects endplay as far as I can see but the thickness of the shims up against the machined surface.

Just my .02,

Tinkerman

Tinkerman

[psyco369]

I just measured the offset and it is more like .025
tink you were talking about the oil fix I was going to use that too but then I talked to Donny Peterson and he said to use pig tails it is a kit that has 2 threaded tubes  you have to tap the bottom of the cylinders and install them (tap and special allen wrench included) the tubes stick out and go past the base gasket so the oil never touches them...no chance of becoming turned like the hayden kit
preston cycle part # 30123

[tinkerman]

Ya Psyco,

I have heard of them. Have you got a brand name for that product?


Tinkerman

[psyco369]

dude I cant tell ya.... the package and instructions only say pigtails no mfg they may be CCI but not sure .....I cant say long term but for the last year they have worked no leak and no side effects

[Buddy WMC]

I'm not sure how the Hayden jets could turn as one end is larger than the other. When I installed mine, they were locktighted and lightly tapped square into the cases. The cylinders slid right down over the top of the jets as they are supposed to per the instructions. I did not use the supplied gaskets and used Genuine James instead. You just have to be careful not to drop one of the brass jets into the engine by mistake. We packed each cylinder with clean rags, so that was not a problem. Easy installation and they work, I would not want to be drilling and tapping anywhere near an assembled lower end unless I had to.

[psyco369]

no you tap the cylinder before assembly the tubes are installed with locktight I had the shop tap and install them when the did the hone and head work....I am not saying the hayden kit is no good as we used it on my friends bike and it worked great......I just liked the idea they cant drop in for any reason but are still removable and reusable....for me if it can possibly fall into the cylinder it will

[DYNACONV1]

Hey Mikey,

Great post!  I am about to embark on a very similar build on a 98 Dyna Conv.  I have a question.  Where did you get the chrome lifter blocks?

JB

[fxr4mikey]

Hey Mikey,

Great post! 

Thanks !!

I am about to embark on a very similar build on a 98 Dyna Conv.  I have a question.  Where did you get the chrome lifter blocks?

JB

ebay

Can't say for sure that this is the store that I got them from, I can't find the reciept

but here's a set on ebay right now ... seems like about the same price that I paid

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHROME-LIFTER-TAPPET-BLOCKS-FOR-HARLEY-BT-1340-84-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a570Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem400001318470QQitemZ400001318470QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



Good luck with your build  .... be sure to post up and let us know how you're doing, and include PICS !!!!

[fxr4mikey]

the project is on hold until my new cyl studs come in .

going back with stock studs with the shoulder on them

I was told yesterday that it might be a week to 10 days to get them

[fxr4mikey]

The new studs came in today .... so it's BACK TO THE BUILD !!!!!!!!!!


I'll be working on it this evening ... get the studs in and let it sit overnight .... make a pass at getting one of the cylinders on tomorrow


more pics and information to follow .....

[fxr4mikey]

I was getting ready to clean up the threads on the cyl studs when I found the loose one ..... OK, so you see all the painters tape .... 2 things ... 1) I'm a chickenchizt and I didn't want anything inside the case that wasn't already in there    .... so I covered it up ....  2) then I just left it like that until I got the new studs on ....



I put my boxend wrench over the stud first, then a double nut, slide the boxend wrench (mine is a ratchet type - fast and easy) up to the bottom nut and unscrew it. I didn't need to heat it, or use a breaker bar




maybe it was a good thing that I found a loose one, and decided to change the entire set ... this one looks like crap ! 


AND, it wasn't the only one that looked like crap !!



Here I'm putting a light coat of oil on the inside threads of all the head bolts.
I took one of the old cyl studs, dipped it in clean oil, tilted the head bolt on a slight angle and screwed the stud into it. This, as best I could tell with a flashlight, lightly oiled the threads. Then I set all the heads bolts on end on a paper towel thinking that if there was excess oil in there that it's drain out before I got around to putting them on..... you know how fast I get this chit done around here !!

[fxr4mikey]

 
so then, I got to put the new cyl studs in ...
here's the approach that I used, even though the SM says DO NOT USE a ratchet, I did  :yikes: 

I screwed them in by hand down to the shoulders, then I took the torque wrench, held it steady, against the direction that the wrench was going to pull, and SLOWLY pulled it up to 120 inch pounds.  You just need to be as careful as you can to not put any lateral stress on the stud. You do not want to bend it or 'pull it' to the side when you are torquing it down ... the idea is to 'spin it' in.  I guess the studs are sensitive :roflback:

In this picture you see the stud, the ball bearing that is inserted into the head bolt and the head bolt


here's the head bolt threaded onto the stud with the ball bearing inside the head bolt.  The idea of having the ball bearing in there is that it keeps the head bolt from 'seating' onto the stud when you torque it down. Then you can UN SCREW the head bolt WITHOUT loosening the cyl stud ... Kewl huh



OK Then .... here's another reason that I left all that blue tape on there ... when you un-screw that head bolt, that little ball bearing is in there .... you know that it'd would LOVE to find a new happy home in the bottom of your crank case, right under the fly wheel .....
However, you see how I've tilted the head bolt to the side as it cam free from the stud ... there never really was a problem with the ball bearing 'falling out'   .... now maybe that's just because the blue tape was in place  :huh:



here she is with all of her new studs  :DD

[fxr4mikey]

well then .... there came a time when I had to check the end gap on my rings ....  here's how I did mine ..... I read somewhere, LATER, that you could put an old ring on the piston to help with this .... I didn't have an old ring, and I didn't know of that idea at the time ....:blink:

In order to get an accurate measurement, the ring must be 'square' in the cylinder ... I used a piston to help achieve this.

I installed the ring in the piston, you can squeeze it in there with your hands



Then I put the piston in there, upside down, and pushed in down about 2 inches


now at this point, since the piston does not have a ring on it, and there is space between the piston and cylinder wall, the piston isn't 'square' in the cylinder.

So I used a level, on two planes, to insure that the piston was sitting square in the cylinder.
In this pic you see the level sitting on the edge of the cylinder .. you'll see also that it is not level, nor is my bench ... so just get your line, and use that as a reference when you put the level on the piston


here's the level now moved up and sitting on the piston


I did that on two sides to insure that it was 'level' = 'square'

Then I removed the piston and measured the end gap of the ring


My indy told me to expect that it would be near the upper limit of the spec after the cyls had been honed.  He was right.  The upper limit is .020 and I got the following measurements ... both cylinders, both compression rings, all measure the same.

Top ring = .019 (both jugs, both rings)
2nd ring = .014 (both jugs, both rings)

Tomorrow I'll ring up the pistons and consider putting them into the jugs in preparation to install the jugs.

I gotta go to a small job tomorrow too     
but I like having my lil 'play money' for the bike too


here's a shot of the pistons after they were bead blasted ... not too bad

[ClassicRider2002]

Mikey~~

Great tutiorial and photos.....the project continues to move forward!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

SIMPLY, CLICK, VIEW & READ:
LOOSE CYLINDER STUDS

[elvislee]

Mikey...All is looking good man   

[tinkerman]

Yup,

Keep it up Mikey. Loooookiiinnggg good. How did ya get those gasket sufaces so clean. I have done the razor slicing/scraping. I am gonna buy some gasket goo when I get home, but man, that engine of yours looks like a surgical tool.

Tinkerman

[elvislee]

well then .... there came a time when I had to check the end gap on my rings ....  here's how I did mine ..... I read somewhere, LATER, that you could put an old ring on the piston to help with this .... I didn't have an old ring, and I didn't know of that idea at the time ....:blink:

In order to get an accurate measurement, the ring must be 'square' in the cylinder ... I used a piston to help achieve this.

I installed the ring in the piston, you can squeeze it in there with your hands



Then I put the piston in there, upside down, and pushed in down about 2 inches


now at this point, since the piston does not have a ring on it, and there is space between the piston and cylinder wall, the piston isn't 'square' in the cylinder.

So I used a level, on two planes, to insure that the piston was sitting square in the cylinder.
In this pic you see the level sitting on the edge of the cylinder .. you'll see also that it is not level, nor is my bench ... so just get your line, and use that as a reference when you put the level on the piston


here's the level now moved up and sitting on the piston


I did that on two sides to insure that it was 'level' = 'square'

Then I removed the piston and measured the end gap of the ring


My indy told me to expect that it would be near the upper limit of the spec after the cyls had been honed.  He was right.  The upper limit is .020 and I got the following measurements ... both cylinders, both compression rings, all measure the same.

Top ring = .019 (both jugs, both rings)
2nd ring = .014 (both jugs, both rings)

Tomorrow I'll ring up the pistons and consider putting them into the jugs in preparation to install the jugs.

I gotta go to a small job tomorrow too     
but I like having my lil 'play money' for the bike too


here's a shot of the pistons after they were bead blasted ... not too bad

Hey Mikey...Are those SE Heads? I notice in the 5th picture of this series of photos there is a stamped engraving of some sort in the metal; what is that? I ask because it reminded me of a topic we had in another life  about the number "4" being stamped in between the fins on the Fxr4 heads. Anyway, not really important; just thought I'd ask. Also, if those are SE Heads I see they are silver; did ya consider buying the black fin SE Heads? I heard the Black Fin SE Heads are hard to come by for the EVO and that ya might not be able to even purchase them anymore except maybe trough eBay or other venues besides HD. Anyway, just wondering...Gotta go now...Have a new set of shocks to be torqued down and time to ride...Build is looking damn good man...Later...Blaine

[fxr4mikey]

Yup,

Keep it up Mikey. Loooookiiinnggg good. How did ya get those gasket sufaces so clean. I have done the razor slicing/scraping. I am gonna buy some gasket goo when I get home, but man, that engine of yours looks like a surgical tool.

Tinkerman

Thanks !!

The surfaces on the cases were cleaned with a 'PLASTC' scraper (sharpen it on one side if you want to --  be careful if you use a razor on the case (not advised) the case is VERY SOFT and easily damaged by a razor blade, or any other hard sharp instrument. I used Permatex Gasket Remover.   BE CAREFUL ... it's UNDER PRESSURE .... squirt it out in a dish or something, then dip the brush into it and then apply it to the gasket surface .... otherwise you'll have a big MESS !!

After that, I cleaned it up with Brake-Kleen (non-chlorinated - has a green and white label - which leaves no residue)

The surfaces on the cylinders were bead blasted on the tops, and the bottoms were 'Lapped' to clean them up and to insure they were flat.

[fxr4mikey]

!!

Hey Mikey...Are those SE Heads?

I do have SE heads, however you have not seen any pictures of them YET!
What you are looking at Blaine is the tops of the cylinders

I notice in the 5th picture of this series of photos there is a stamped engraving of some sort in the metal; what is that?
Yes, there is a number '4' stamped into the top of each of the cylinders.
There are two differnet stamppings. 
One of the cylinder (the front one on my bike) as this stamped into the top of the cylinder:  4:
The rear cylinder as this stamped into it:  the number '4' inside a circle

I ask because it reminded me of a topic we had in another life  about the number "4" being stamped in between the fins on the Fxr4 heads.
Yes, I remembered that as soon as I got the heads off and saw these numbers on the tops of the cylinders ...


Anyway, not really important; just thought I'd ask. Also, if those are SE Heads I see they are silver; did ya consider buying the black fin SE Heads?
My SE heads are sliver, I did consider buying 'black' ... you can check that out in my post over on v twin when I first started this effort about 15 months ago. Couple of guys posted up pictures for me of silver cases, cylinders and black heads.  Looks OK, but it's not what I wanted for my bike.  I would like to see it in person, that'd be nice.


I heard the Black Fin SE Heads are hard to come by for the EVO
actually I found it the other way around when I was looking to purchase last May. I found more black heads than silver, things change every 3 months, if they need to or not   


and that ya might not be able to even purchase them anymore except maybe trough eBay or other venues besides HD.
The only source that I seriously considered was eBAY. And even then most of the places that you find there are HD dealers. Like I wound up getting mine from a dealer in Ohio .. they sell a lot of stuff on eBAY .... as does many other dealers.  I paid $645 for them, w/top end gasket set - buy it now price last May.

Anyway, just wondering...Gotta go now...Have a new set of shocks to be torqued down and time to ride...
GIDDY UP !!!!!!!!!


Build is looking damn good man
Thanks !!

...Later...Blaine

Latter !

[fxr4mikey]

someone asked about my shop



One of the jobs that I'm working on is a remodel. The home owner was going to throw away all of the cabinets and counter tops .......... WHOA WHOA WHOA !!!!!
So I brought it all home and set them up in the garage .... works out GREAT !!!!!!! and you know what
The price CAN NOT BE BEAT !!!!

Here's a few shots from different angles:

taken from the garage door lookin in
Nice thing about this is that my gas tank is in the cabinet, out of the way, to the left of that and down one, you can see my saddle in there .... so it's GREAT to have a place to put this stuff where nothing is going to fall on it, or that I trip over it.  All the take offs, wrist pins, nuts, bolts and the like, are all labeled and in baggies stored in the drawers :DD



from the top of the stairs where you go into the house



the bench on the left is what I had until I got this remodel job, the cabinets were a 'side benefit' of the job 



On the old bench you can see the old stock heads (not cleaned up yet) and the CLEANED and SHINNY rocker boxes, ready to go back on. The new heads are on the back of the bench still wrapped up and ready to go on !! ..... GIDDY UP

[ClassicRider2002]

Mikey~~

Great photos of your FANTASTIC SHOP AREA.....VERY NICE!!!!!!

Hey Blaine......HOWDY!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

[elvislee]

Mikey~~

Great photos of your FANTASTIC SHOP AREA.....VERY NICE!!!!!!

Hey Blaine......HOWDY!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

  Tim

[ceduby]

I see a couple of problems in the shop    1. Not a single half naked girl poster or calendar
                                                       2. Where's the fridge??

[elvislee]

I see a couple of problems in the shop    1. Not a single half naked girl poster or calendar
                                                       2. Where's the fridge??

Bet the BOSS LADY knows the answer to that 

[tinkerman]

No I hear ya on the razor blade Mikey. Very careful with that and have a lot of gasket residue left on there yet...hence the need for the gasket goo to get it down to the metal.

I'm about 10 days away from getting home and a couple days after that I should be in the shop.....gotta go though the due deligence with the better half and the kids, etc.... but looking forward to it.

Tink

[dave_9113]

What's up with the chicken?   

[elvislee]

What's up with the chicken?   

Ya gonna tell him mikey? 

[fxr4mikey]

I see a couple of problems in the shop    1. Not a single half naked girl poster or calendar
                                                       2. Where's the fridge??

the fridge is in the basement ... but when the build is complete my next job is to clean out the other corner of the garage and bring the fridge up there  !  Should have it there now !  It would save travel time   

I do need some girly pics posted around and about, Thanks for reminding me !!!!!!!

[fxr4mikey]

No I hear ya on the razor blade Mikey. Very careful with that and have a lot of gasket residue left on there yet...hence the need for the gasket goo to get it down to the metal.

I'm about 10 days away from getting home and a couple days after that I should be in the shop.....gotta go though the due deligence with the better half and the kids, etc.... but looking forward to it.

Tink

Yep, first things first !!!

We'll be here, waiting for you and your stories and pics !!

[fxr4mikey]

What's up with the chicken?   

I didn't see no chicken   

[dave_9113]

Either I'm going blind or there's a chicken sitting on the ladder.   

[fxr4mikey]

 

I was jus messin about .....

There's stories about rubber chickens ... everyone loves a rubber chicken, don't they ??

I have several of them, I take them with me all the time ....

Here's some pics of them on some of my travels last summer

here I am over night-ing at a buddies place up in Ohio - by the way, you can see his rubber chicken hanging on the rack over on the right


here she is, getting gas, on my way to rider all the way around Lake Michigan, Circle Lake Michigan Tour .... across the U.P. and back to SC again 



here she is last Aug. getting ready to leave my Mom's house in Britton Mi.


here's my Good Friend Clint, he lives in Gaylord Mi. (WAY NORTH) and he likes rubber chickens too ... He's a GREAT GUY, and FUNNY AS HELL !!
Also in this pic you can see my other Good Friend's bike, Heritage ST, and his chicken too ..... Our chickens Love To Ride !!!



Three Chickens Will Ride !!



My Good Friends from Northern Mi., Chip, his wife K-Ren, and Clint.  My chicken and the Mackinac bridge in the background ... just before we crossed over



here we are on the north side of the bridge, it's hard to get Clint away from his rubber chicken ...... Just Sayin'



Clint had to go home at the end of that day, Chip and I continued for the next week.  Here we are at Silver Lake Mi. 


here we are at the end of route 43 in Mi.


here we are in Chicago



Here's my GREAT FRIEND Mark, fondling my Chicken !!!!  Mark lives in Chicago


Here she is at the HD Factory in Milwaukee !!!



here she is in Muskegon Il at the Route 43 HD Dealer


I like the red heads



even the lil guys have an appreciation for the rubber chicken       They LOVED IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!


We rode those chickens all the way to Paradise !!!


Then I went to







SO, you ASK .... What's with the chicken  ??

She is up there, watching me do this build ... She is squawking and squawking and squawking and  ... wanting to know when the build is gonna be done so she can RIDE AGAIN !!!!



Some day I'll post up the pictures of when I took her to ND last year, and to Eureka Springs AR, and several other places ... She LOVES TO RIDE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Black Diamond]

Hey Mike

They got pills to get you over that chicken thing. What do I know, I ride with a Taz on back!

JW

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[fxr4mikey]

JW ... now that's KEWL ...... If I didn't have the chicken, or was ever to change .... my first choice would be to adopt a Buffalo, 2nd choice, TAZ !!!!!!!!



WHOA .... JW, That paint job on your bike is AWESOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Black Diamond]

JW ... now that's KEWL ...... If I didn't have the chicken, or was ever to change .... my first choice would be to adopt a Buffalo, 2nd choice, TAZ !!!!!!!!



WHOA .... JW, That paint job on your bike is AWESOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's what grabbed me. Made me trade a 110 Street Glide cough up some more molla to get her. Haven't regretted it for a minute. Now I just need to get the FXR back together!

I came over here to keep up with you and the guys on the FXR stuff. Good information over here too. May post a thread on my FXR here also.

JW

[elvislee]

Hey Mikey...Your presentation of "Easy Chicken Riders" was very impressive. I was laughing so hard I said to myself, "Damn man, tell Mikey to tell Mark don't choke that chicken".    

Tim...Where ya at man? Your messing a great show  

[elvislee]

 

[elvislee]

JW ... now that's KEWL ...... If I didn't have the chicken, or was ever to change .... my first choice would be to adopt a Buffalo, 2nd choice, TAZ !!!!!!!!



WHOA .... JW, That paint job on your bike is AWESOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's what grabbed me. Made me trade a 110 Street Glide cough up some more molla to get her. Haven't regretted it for a minute. Now I just need to get the FXR back together!

I came over here to keep up with you and the guys on the FXR stuff. Good information over here too. May post a thread on my FXR here also.

JW

So what ya waitin fer thar JW? I wanna see what color ya chose ta paint them thar tins? Hey, I know you ain't paintin em ba, ba, ba. ba. balack are ya?  You know Harley never painted any of their stock bikes black don't ya? 

Lookin forward to seeing that baby when your finished man 

[fxr4mikey]

JW ... now that's KEWL ...... If I didn't have the chicken, or was ever to change .... my first choice would be to adopt a Buffalo, 2nd choice, TAZ !!!!!!!!



WHOA .... JW, That paint job on your bike is AWESOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's what grabbed me. Made me trade a 110 Street Glide cough up some more molla to get her. Haven't regretted it for a minute. Now I just need to get the FXR back together!

I came over here to keep up with you and the guys on the FXR stuff. Good information over here too. May post a thread on my FXR here also.

JW

Yeah JW .... comeon and DO IT !!!!!!!!!!!!

[ClassicRider2002]

now that was some funny STUFF!!!!!!!!

   

We keep having this much fun and well who knows what will happen.....LOL

Regards,

"Classic"

[elvislee]

Mikey buddy...I know your busy; but, just want to let ya know we ain't forgot about ya man. If you don't hurry back, Jeff is gonna get that FXRS of his on the rode before you do and you had a years head start ....Look forward to seeing ya back...Blaine

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey buddy...I know your busy; but, just want to let ya know we ain't forgot about ya man. If you don't hurry back, Jeff is gonna get that FXRS of his on the rode before you do and you had a years head start ....Look forward to seeing ya back...Blaine

Hey Blaine .........  I haven't gone anywheres .............  I've been busy with a couple of side jobs that I took on  .... just a bit of pocket cash ... that couple with the cold weather last week, my cold and that sums up what I got done on the build ....

I'm working again tomorrow ... but I expect to be working on the bike this weekend ...I hope all goes well and that I'll have gas in the tank on Sunday .... however ... the weather forecast for Sunday doesn't look good right now .... but that won't matter .... I still plan to get her together  .. and be ready for the first nice day that comes along.  I cant wait to hear her roar !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for keeping track of me Blaine !!!

[fxr4mikey]

oh yeah, I'll be posting up pics as I continue to put her together ...... you can count on that ....

[elvislee]

oh yeah, I'll be posting up pics as I continue to put her together ...... you can count on that ....

Good deal Mikey. Hey, here's a pic of Me and my little grandson after a 40-50 mile little ride out to Dauphin Island last Fat Tuesday

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[ClassicRider2002]

Blaine....that there is an awesome photo.....he looks like he is having the time of his life hangin with you.....that's some NEAT STUFF RIGHT THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so tell me who took the photo?

Regards,

"Classic"

[fxr4mikey]

oh yeah, I'll be posting up pics as I continue to put her together ...... you can count on that ....

Good deal Mikey. Hey, here's a pic of Me and my little grandson after a 40-50 mile little ride out to Dauphin Island last Fat Tuesday

OH MAN .... he's a keeper for sure !!!

Hey, I see you got your tank bra on ....

comeon man, where's the close up pictures and the narative telling us all about it .... how do you like it, how does it fit, how does it look, how's the quality, blah blah blah

[elvislee]

Blaine....that there is an awesome photo.....he looks like he is having the time of his life hangin with you.....that's some NEAT STUFF RIGHT THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so tell me who took the photo?

Regards,

"Classic"

Yea Tim....We had a great time. My Niece took the pic. We had stopped by her house on the way back.

[elvislee]

oh yeah, I'll be posting up pics as I continue to put her together ...... you can count on that ....

Good deal Mikey. Hey, here's a pic of Me and my little grandson after a 40-50 mile little ride out to Dauphin Island last Fat Tuesday

OH MAN .... he's a keeper for sure !!!

Hey, I see you got your tank bra on ....

comeon man, where's the close up pictures and the narative telling us all about it .... how do you like it, how does it fit, how does it look, how's the quality, blah blah blah

Heres a quick pic...I'll get back with ya on the details...gotta go 

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[Black Diamond]

Blaine

Great pic with Grandkid. You look quite content! Reminds us of what important. Our families' and our Harleys'

JW

[elvislee]

Blaine

Great pic with Grandkid. You look quite content! Reminds us of what important. Our families' and our Harleys'

JW

Thanks Jeff,  we had fun riding that day 

[elvislee]

oh yeah, I'll be posting up pics as I continue to put her together ...... you can count on that ....

Good deal Mikey. Hey, here's a pic of Me and my little grandson after a 40-50 mile little ride out to Dauphin Island last Fat Tuesday

OH MAN .... he's a keeper for sure !!!

Hey, I see you got your tank bra on ....

comeon man, where's the close up pictures and the narative telling us all about it .... how do you like it, how does it fit, how does it look, how's the quality, blah blah blah

Heres a quick pic...I'll get back with ya on the details...gotta go 

Hey Mikey, Sorry I haven't gotten back with ya on the tank panel/bra. I don't have any pics but the ones you saw and those were quick snaps at my niecs's house. I want to get a few better closeups for ya and then I'll post with my thoughts. I'll be here rather than there from now on and man am I waiting to see where your at on your build...Best to ya man...Blaine

[fxr4mikey]

oh yeah, I'll be posting up pics as I continue to put her together ...... you can count on that ....

Good deal Mikey. Hey, here's a pic of Me and my little grandson after a 40-50 mile little ride out to Dauphin Island last Fat Tuesday

OH MAN .... he's a keeper for sure !!!

Hey, I see you got your tank bra on ....

comeon man, where's the close up pictures and the narative telling us all about it .... how do you like it, how does it fit, how does it look, how's the quality, blah blah blah

Heres a quick pic...I'll get back with ya on the details...gotta go 

Hey Mikey, Sorry I haven't gotten back with ya on the tank panel/bra.

Not a problem man, I understand !

I don't have any pics but the ones you saw and those were quick snaps at my niecs's house. I want to get a few better closeups for ya and then I'll post with my thoughts.

OK...... I plan to order mine SOON, but want to hear what you have to say about it first 

I'll be here rather than there from now on

OK, seems to be the same for many others too ..... no problem


and man am I waiting to see where your at on your build

OK, well, I haven't worked on it for about a week and a half .. been busy with a couple of jobs that I took on for some pocket cash   
and haven't been 'in the mood' for doing it ... but I'll get back to it SOON


...Best to ya man...Blaine

Back at ya man !

[fxr4mikey]

OK, some 'SMALL' progress on the build.

I decided to put the cir clips in one side of the pistons while they are on the bench.  There's several threads around the various forums with pics telling/showing how to do this.
It was my experience that some of these ideas don't work for the stock pistons on the 1340 EVO.

1) the example of the 3/4 inch copper coupling..... won't work. The coupling is larger in diameter the the hole for the cir clip, and 1/2 inch is too small
1a) if you have some 'other' pistons, like the ones in the picture with the copper coupling, you need to be sure and buy a coupling WITHOUT a 'STOP' inside it. Otherwise your 5/8 inch socket will not pass through the coupling

First thing I did was put some assembly lube on my finger and run it around inside the opening where the cir clip was going to be installed


It took me several attempts to get the first one in, and it DID NOT fly off anywhere 

I started out trying to have the opening of the cir clip at 12'oclock. At 6'oclock there's a little notch for a pick tool for removing the cir clip, so you want to make sure when you install it, that the opening IS NOT at the 6'oclock position.  So it JUST SEEMED LOGICAL to start it at 12'oclcok.

The problem that I encountered with that is that the clip kept getting caught up on the left hand edge of the little notch for a pick tool for removing the cir clip and I couldn't get it past that point -

I couldn't hold the clip, the pencil and the camera all at the same time .... well, not the way I wanted ... look over at the left side of that notch, that's the edge that the clip gets caught on if you start with the opening at 12'oclock



So it dawned on me that I needed to rotate the clip and start it at 2'oclock so that it would already BE PAST the little notch when I started pushing it in with my screwdriver...




you see in that picture above, look at the top of the clip, you see that it just outside the slot that is cut in the side of the piston, squeeze it down with your thumb and under that lip, hold it down with your thumb .... like this





after you get past about 7'oclock you won't even need to hold it, you can just keep pushing it with your screwdriver




almost installed, just one more lil push with the screwdriver and the cir clip opening will be at about 3'oclock

[Bucket]

Mikey  Great job! I have finished my bike and I took pictures but I havn't figurued out how to post them. the circlip is tricky. I used a pick and worked ok. I left my pistons in the clyinders pulled them to do base gaskets and new heads.I did it this way because I had 168 psi on front and 165 on rear and was using no oil to speek of now with the new heads the compression is a little over 180  Did your piston pins push out by hand or did you have to encourage them? mine were floating ok but got tight in the circlip area after a cleanup they went in fine. I like my S&S reed so far on the tear down I noticed the rear rocker cover gasket had pushed down and was restricting the movement of the umbrella valve don't know what that would do but can't be good .....will keep up with your build ..Good Luck

[fxr4mikey]

Alrighty Then !!!

More progress on the build .... got the pistons ringed, installed into the cylinders, put the cylinders on the bike, put the heads on the cylinders, torqued them down, started the install of the intake manifold ....

first use a sharpie to mark the direction of the arrow that's on the top of the cylinder ... Nice tip from my Good Friend Harley !  Thanks Harley !



here's the rear cylinder, upside down, the piston (with rings installed) and the ring compressor.  I oiled all of the rings before I installed them, then I put assembly lube all the way around the piston. Starting from the 'top' of the piston and going down to the space below the oil wiper.  I also put assy. lube inside the ring compressor to make it easy to knock the piston out of the compressor.  I didn't get any shots of that process ... messy hands for sure .... I used the wooden end of a plastic dead blow hammer to tap on the inside of the piston to drive it down into the cylinder.  You have to pay attention to how far you put it into the cylinder. .... leave enough room for the wrist pin to clear ....



Here's the piston in the cylinder .... arrow pointing to the left (front) ....



here you can see that there is room for the wrist pin to clear



just for the fun of it, I took a shot down into the cylinder ... you can see that the arrow is pointing to the front ..... the cut-out in the side of the cylinder is the space used by the push rods ....... I know all you wrenches already know all this stuff .... I'm just trying to help the guy, like me, who's never done it before.



here's the cylinder with the piston installed and sitting 'upright'  you'll notice that I've installed the wrist pin into the piston already. Thanks Steve for that tip !!
Install it just short of the entry for the connecting rod .... this way you won't have to stop after you put the cylinder down over the studs and try to find the wrist pin, or pick it up from somewhere. In the photo, it might look like it, but it's not, .... that the cylinder is sitting down on the top edge of the wrist pin .... it's not



EDIT:
Don't do like I did (I got lucky)  I FORGOT to stuff some rags in the crank case holes so as not to drop anything in there.....like a cir clip 


here's the rear one on, wrist pin installed (more on this in a minute) and getting ready to install the cir clip.



cir clip being installed ..... see my earlier post on this .... once you get that idea down, it's EASY ..... Not one of them went FLYING!!!



then I took the head bolts .... I know they look like 'zhit' but there's NOTHING wrong with them  ... and you can't see them anyway ..... and put some oil in the cap, dipped my finder in it and lubed the shoulder of the head bolts, and the bottoms of them. I had already oiled the inside threads a couple of weeks ago by dipping an old cyl stud in oil and screwing that into the head bolts.



here she is with her first new head !!!
I used James base cylinder gasket, and Cometic head gaskets. Both come with torquing instructions ... I followed the Cometic instructions and pattern.  I've also decided that even I were to use stock HD head gaskets (but I would NEVER) that I'd still follow the Cometic torquing instructions.



ain't she PRETTTTTTY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

here's the second one going on -  you can see the wrist pin already started



then, working from the other side, you can look into the hole for the wrist pin and align the connecting rod and push the wrist pin through ...... :-)   Thanks again Steve !!
It took a few maneuvers to get it aligned, but it was pretty straight forward and not difficult. You just have to hold the cylinder/piston, move it up and down, you might have to move the connecting rod, reach through to the other side with you other hand, and start pushing on the wrist pin .... once it starts to go in keep pushing on it until it seats up against the cir clip that was already installed on the work bench...



here she is with both of her new heads !!!!!!!!!!!   I LOVE THIS BIKE !!!!!!!!!!  She is BEAUTIFUL !!!!!!!!



so then I set about to install the intake manifold. If you do this step now, BEFORE you install the rocker boxes you'll have more room to work.

here's the old seal coming out



here's a closer look at what the seals look like .... be sure to install the flange FIRST, and the bevel side of the seal goes 'in' towards the flange.



here's the loosely fit intake manifold .... got late, got tired, got cold ...... tomorrow is another day .....

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey  Great job! I have finished my bike and I took pictures but I havn't figurued out how to post them. the circlip is tricky. I used a pick and worked ok. I left my pistons in the clyinders pulled them to do base gaskets and new heads.I did it this way because I had 168 psi on front and 165 on rear and was using no oil to speek of now with the new heads the compression is a little over 180  Did your piston pins push out by hand or did you have to encourage them?

I had to use a homemade tool to get the wrist pins out ... I'll post that up. Wish I could take credit for the idea, but it was passed to me from another friend!

mine were floating ok but got tight in the circlip area after a cleanup they went in fine.

Mine too

I like my S&S reed so far on the tear down I noticed the rear rocker cover gasket had pushed down and was restricting the movement of the umbrella valve don't know what that would do but can't be good .....will keep up with your build ..Good Luck

Thanks for the Good Luck Wishes !!

[fxr4mikey]

Home made tool for pulling out your wrist pins .....
I needed this to get mine out ... I could push them, but they seemed to get stuck when they got to the grove for the cir clip, this was EASY !!!!!!!!!!

The parts for the tool




Wrist pin with the c clip still in





Head of carriage bolt against the wrist pin





Plastic pipe notch for clearance







Wrist pin partially removed





Wrist pin almost out and sliding into plastic pipe




Wrist pin completely out.



Parts for the tool - 8" long 5/16" carriage bolt, 5/16 wing nut, 5/16 fender washer, 5/16 nylon washer ( not really needed), a 3-1/2" long piece of 1" I.D. plastic pipe and a bottle of Makers Mark for me.

[Bucket]

cool pin puller I made one from all thread and stainless pipe  notched the same way worked good. Mikey you probelly know this but I ran into it with my heads check the valve retainer clearance on the lower rocker box. the boxes have a casting mark that i ground out to give more clearance. was easy with a dermal tool. If you have already talked about this I haven't read all post in a while. You should fire her soon looking good

[tinkerman]

Hey Mikey,

Looks like she is getting close to being able to fly.

As said before, great work, great post.

Tink

[ceduby]

Hey Mikey,
Glad to see things going well, and NICE shop! Not to hijack your thread but I ran into something when I put gas in the tank, (just finishing up a top end re-do) fuel came pouring out the overflow, Carb was on the bench for about 6 weeks, untouched, Since i was doing a short heat cycle anyway I decided to just run it till the bowl was empty. After the run, I turned the fuel back on and no more leak. What ever it was the vibration cleared it. So if this happens to you don't pull the bowl off right away. I would of but didn't have a short enough phillips at the time.

[fxr4mikey]

Gettin close now ....
Got the mainfold, bottom rocker boxes w/rocker arms and push rods installed.

for all you wrenches out there reading this, remember, this is mostly an effort to help those that might not know, and for those who may be working on a FXR .... so of it is specific to the FXR, and MOST of it is common to any EVO.

Thanks to EVERYONE who has been helping me, and to all those reviewing and providing the kind Compliments and words of Encouragement

Here comes the pics ...

the manual says to make sure that the manifold is in an 'up right position'  I interpret that as to mean 'vertical'
so I placed a torpedo level on the face of the timing hole to see how the bike was sitting


then I snugged up the bolts on the manifold, just enough to hold it into position, put the level on the face of the manifold and adjusted it to be the same as the way the bike is sitting


then I adjusted the manifold, as best that I could to be 'centered' between the two cylinders, obviously this is from the back side of the intake


you can not put a torque wrench on the bolts that hold the manifold in place, not on the front or the back (I don't know how the HD Techs torque these bolts).  So I warmed up my arm, calibrated my bicep, put the dog leg allen  wrench in there and torqued them down (SM calls for 15-17 ft lbs)

front ones


back ones


then it was off to do the base rocker boxes
here's a picture of the pretty one peice James gasket .... dayum nice gasket
The large holes at the top of the pic is the side that goes over the valves and the other side is where the push rods come up into the heads and to the rocker arms


here's a pic of the bottom of the base rocker box, all pretty, shinny and clean !! all of the rocker boxes were cleaned using a parts cleaning brush and Simple Green


when I took it apart I put all the parts into baggies and labeled them. This insures that I get the same rocker arm shaft back into the same rocker arm that it was in before.
I had also labeled all of the positions that the bolts came out of .... .didn't matter this time because I put on new heads .... otherwise they would have all gone back into their original holes.  Here's the parts that go into the bottom rocker box ... starting with the rear (#2) cylinder


then I made my first Doof mistake of the day ........ I put the rocker box on, only to remember that the bolts on the rear (left side) for the rocker arms have to be installed WITH the rocker box, as there is NO ROOM to get those bolts in once the rocker box is installed


so the rocker box had to come back out


so then I decided to read the SM .... it says to install the rocker arms and shafts THEN install the rocker box .... but it DOES NOT mention that on the FXR4 you MUST (if doing this with the engine in the frame) drop those rocker arm bolts into the box BEFORE you put the box on the head
Here's what the assembly looks like

here's a shot of the bottom of the rocker arm ... the little hole is where the oil comes up from the pushrod and oils the rocker arm shaft ... you see the shaft to the right, and the notch that must line up with the bolt that holds the rocker arm in place


first one installed, the bottom of the photo is the left side of the cylinder


here's a shot of the rocker arm (upside down) the shaft (showing the notch) and the bolt


it is possible to install the rocker arms backwards in the rocker box ..... be sure that the push rod seat is on the right hand side of the box ..... yes, you can ask me how I know this .... but I might not tell you ....


first rocker box assembled and installed, with the rocker arm bolts in place


checking the end play on the rocker arm .... if I recall you can have up to .025 end play, mine measured .009 ..... good to go !


after you snug down all the bolts, you'll realize that there is no way to put a torque wrench on the bolts on the left hand side .....


so I called my Good Friend Harley and discussed this with him.  He told me about 'dog bones'.  So I needed a torque wrench adapter .... but I didn't have one, so I made one like this
started with a combination box end ratchet wrench


added to that a 3/8 to 1/2 inch ratchet adapter (Mike's torque wrench is 3/8 inch drive)


put all that together and had an adapter that I could put on those bolts








these two screws on the left side ... no torque wrench ... I used my calibrated right arm and set them ...


both bottom rocker boxes installed ..... YEAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


I'm going out to work on it now ..... the push rods are already installed and adjusted, and I have the pictures ....  but want to go to the garage now .... so I'll post up more later

[elvislee]

Mikey Dude!!!!...What a job you done man...I'm Damn proud of ya!!!....You have done here for all us dumb ass's who couldn't tell ya crap about wrenchin is give us who may want to try this ourselve's the confidence and the reference to actually try. Man, what a GREAT job! Can't wait til ya get that baby on the road and give us the skinny on how she runs...     

[fxr4mikey]

here's the rest of the assembly pics

getting ready to install the 'ez install, adjustable push rods'

the long one is the way they are shipped, collapse it down to install it


I put some assembly lube on all the 'O' rings before I installed them


then I installed the metal washer in the lifter block, then the 'O' ring, replaced the 'O' rings on the push rod covers, and installed the new 'O' rings in the heads where the push rods enter




then I put the tube over the push rod, installed it into the head, then the lifter block .....  and thanks to another GREAT TIP from my Wonderful Friend Harley, I made a clip/hanger with a paper clip and rubber band to hold the tube up out of the way while I adjusted the push rod




then I set about to adjust the push rod ... the instructions called for me to make 4 full turns .... these rods only have two flats on them, so that was easy.

First I adjusted the rods so that there was no vertical play, and the rod was 'SNUG'

Then I lined up one of the flats on the rod with a flat on the locking jam nut and marked both of them with a red sharppie ..... counted four turns and locked them down.



all four push rods installed and retainer clips installed


Then I got ready to install the middle and top rocker boxes. I replaced the umbrella valve with new ones. The new ones are from James, and sit differently in the box than the stock ones.  This concerned me a bit because the valve does not sit down tight against the bottom of the box.  I concluded that the pressure in the box would force the valve down, it's 'soft'. 
In this pic you can see the difference in the design, and why the James valve doesn't sit all the way to the bottom in the rocker box - james valve is on the left  :whistling:




then I removed all the old paper gaskets from the rocker box bolts and cleaned them up


all rocker boxes installed ... I had to use my 'calibrated right arm' to torque down all of the bolts on the lefthand side ...




OH Yeah, this is for anyone that has to lower your engine in the frame .... tilt your head over to the left and look at these two pics .... this is the frame right under the primary ... in order not to scratch things up, I took some foam pipe insulation and cut a little piece out of the center to make the opening large enough for the frame, placed it on the frame and lowered the engine




so now I set about to put the engined back up in the frame and hook up the motor mounts.


then the voltage reg and coil/bracket




then assemble the choke cable on the Mikuni carb
.... follow the instructions that come with your carb
on the top is the plunger and spring that comes with the Mikuni ... you'll notice that they are both larger than the stock HD stuff


then the battery  .... I don't know about 'other' bikes, but  dealing with the batt in the FXR4 is a PITFA !!!
You can't get ahold of it .... so I cut some strapping and placed it down under the battery so that it can be installed/removed easyly ..... also this allowed me to hold the battery up while I got the neg side bolt started...




and when finished just tuck the ends down into the case


here's a shot of the bottom of the front pipe ... got this mostly last Aug. up in Michigan doing the 'Circle Lake Michigan Tour' ..... :yikes:


when I started putting the exhaust on I couldn't help but notice the difference in the exhaust port from the stock heads ...
here's the stock exhaust port (yeah, I know, it's dirty and way to rich) - you might notice that the port consumes the entire 360 degree opening


here's the SE head


exhaust installed ....... my least favorite part of working on the bike .... exhaust   




and then the A/C .... and she's ready to FIRE !!  :woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey Dude!!!!...What a job you done man...I'm Damn proud of ya!!!....

Thanks Blaine, I hope that it's of help to others, I've had FUN doing it !!!!!!!!

You have done here for all us dumb ass's who couldn't tell ya crap about wrenchin is give us who may want to try this ourselve's the confidence and the reference to actually try.

Don't be afraid of it ...... it's not very hard at all really.  Well, as long as you don't go below the cylinders ... if you get into the crank case you need all kinds of special tools and stuff. Above that, for the EVO, it's not very complicated really 

Man, what a GREAT job! Can't wait til ya get that baby on the road and give us the skinny on how she runs...   

I'll be posting up my evaluation of the changes later .... in a day or two after I have more miles on her.


I rode yesterday, 135 miles ..............  can you say    'GIDDY UP'

[Black Diamond]

Great news Mikey!    I can see you smiling from here!    Man, that was quite the odyssey you took us on. What's your intitial impressions on the W6?

JW

[elvislee]

Damn that bike looks good Mikey! I am jealous man! How's she runnin man? Details, Details, Details   

[fxr4mikey]

Great news Mikey!    I can see you smiling from here!    Man, that was quite the odyssey you took us on. What's your intitial impressions on the W6?

in one word   'WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW'

JW

In more than one word 'HOLD ON TIGHT'  !!!!!!!

in 3rd gear at 70MPH she still has the front end un-loaded .....  hows that for pulling !!!!

she gets on the cam right at 2K and doesn't come off until in the mid 5Krpm's ........... I've only hit the limit (6K) twice so far .... once yesterday and once today .....

If I could be happier with my choices and the outcome .... I don't know what could make me that way   .......   BLISSFUL, just DELIGHTFUL, makes me almost wet just thinking about it   LMFAO

I rode another hundred miles today ............... GIDDY THE HE77 UP !!!!!!!!!!  The ride is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo different ..... so much more power, and I LOVE the sound !!!


I did have a  problem, I'll post that up in a minute  ... cause it's kinda interesting, but resolved ..... it was electrical in nature

man .... those heads, and that cam, together are an awesome combination .... I'm sure that the Mikuni carb (bigger throttle body than stock) and after market air cleaner have a lot to do with it too .... but the engine breathes so much better ... she has a 'hum' to her now ..... not to mention the POUNDING she does when you jump on her !!!

[fxr4mikey]

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

I got her FIRED UP yesterday :woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:


I rode 135 miles .....

She has a small carb adjustment from 'just off idle' to about 2K rpms.  I'm working on that today ....

My report about how 'she's different' will follow




If I could put my SMILING FACE in here, it'd take up your entire screen ..............

[COLOR="Red"][SIZE="7"]
GIDDY UP !!!!!!!!!!!!!![/SIZE][/COLOR]

[fxr4mikey]

turns out that it WAS NOT a carb problem.

I started checking stuff last night and this morning she wouldn't start

after cranking on it for FRIGGINEVER .... I JUST HAPPEN to touch the rear exhaust .... it was warm, so for whatever reason, I got an idea to touch the front one .... STONE COLD ......

so I pulled the plugs, the rear one fires real nice, even close to a blue color sometimes .... the front one is VERY VERY weak and only reddish in color

so I swapped the coil wires, same thing
so I swapped the plugs, just for fun, same thing
so I change the ign from single fire, put the stock dual fire coil in, put it together, BAM !!!!!!!!

FIRE IN THE HOLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Started right up, on the first revolution !!

Warmed her up, took her out for 30 miles..... After 10 miles I was riding like I always do ... sorta 'HOT' .....
only hit the rev limit once.

She takes the throttle from ANY position, no hesitation, no spittin and spudderin like yesterday .... and runs REALLY STRONG !!!!!!!!!!!

all I can say now is

[COLOR="Red"][SIZE="7"]
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW[/SIZE][/COLOR]





Latter I checked out the ignition module and the single fire coil ..... I'm getting the right electrical signals from the module to the coil .... therefore the coil is bad
I'll pick up another single fire coil and change it back ......

I don't know what NO NAME brand coil I have .... bought it off e-bay about a year ago for like 30 bucks .... musta been a throw away     

[Sc00ter]

Outstanding result, Mikey!!  It has been great fun and very interesting watching and reading of your progress!!  Great job!!!!  

[fxr4mikey]

Damn that bike looks good Mikey! I am jealous man! How's she runnin man? Details, Details, Details   

Glad you like the way she looks Blaine .... you should ride her man !!!!!!!!!!!!  make your eyes bug out   

she runs GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!!  couple of minor, normal, carb adjustments to make and shes' dialed in !!!

Details to come in a few days .... gotta rest, ride, enjoy, do it over again, and again, and again .....
then I can collect my thoughts and post up some details about my assessments of the changes

[fxr4mikey]

Outstanding result, Mikey!!  It has been great fun and very interesting watching and reading of your progress!!  Great job!!!!   

Thanks Scooter !!!!!!!!!

[fxr4mikey]

just a couple of 'better' pics of the finished effort 

[lengbyroadking]

I seem to remember reading that you used the stock cam gear. Was the removal and reinstall done at a machine shop? Is this a good idea?

[Black Diamond]

Great news! Do you happen to know how much difference there is from the stock heads vs your SE heads. I'm asking because I'm just putting the W6 in without milling the heads for now. Wondering if I have the same dramatic increase. Man you have me jonesin to get mine back.

Sure sounds like the cam is working where you'd want it to also!

JW

[fxr4mikey]

I seem to remember reading that you used the stock cam gear. Was the removal and reinstall done at a machine shop? Is this a good idea?

I had the local Independent Dealer make the cam gear swap for me.
He took both gears off both cams, put the stock gear on the new cam, charged me $35

good idea, to me, YES.  In this method I did not have to worry about the cam and pinion gear lash .... I knew they matched up because they already had 26K miles on them.
If you don't do this, you need to measure the lash between the too gears and insure that they are 'in spec'   reference your service manual for that spec

[fxr4mikey]

Great news! Do you happen to know how much difference there is from the stock heads vs your SE heads.

Yes, stock heads have a 83CC combustion chamber and produce 8.5:1 compression ration
SE heads have a 72CC combustioin chamber and product 9:5.1 compression ration ....

both of the above statements are made with reference to stock pistons and cylinders and head gasket

You can change that up by going with a thinner head gasket, such as the .030 Cometic head gasket (which I did) which increases the compression ratio a small amount.. or mill the heads down, and or port and polish, or all of the above...... For me, I just took what I consider the easy road and bought the SE heads and bolted them on


I'm asking because I'm just putting the W6 in without milling the heads for now. Wondering if I have the same dramatic increase.

you will notice an increase, but NOT AS MUCH as when you have higher compression heads.... Like I got    (sorry, couldn't help myself  LOL).. ... cams need a specific compression ratio where they work the best .... you will get the best performance from that W6 (according to my conversation with Bob Wood) running a range of about 9.5:1 up to just over 10:1 ..... ideal, according to what I was told, would be try to get my bike in the 9.75:1 or 9.8:1 range

Man you have me jonesin to get mine back.
Yeah man ..... if you could even HEAR this thing you'd get moist    LOL .... call me up Jeff, I'll start it up and you'll hear what a monster it is    hahahahaaaa

Sure sounds like the cam is working where you'd want it to also!
OH YEAH,  it's EXACTLY where I want mine !!!!!  I'll give more details on that later ..
Best of luck !!!

JW

[Herulf]

Outstanding result, Mikey!!  It has been great fun and very interesting watching and reading of your progress!!  Great job!!!!  

X2

[ClassicRider2002]

-

Mikey~~~

You have done something special for all of us as FXR Owners, thank you! for letting us all see what you have done throughout this build, but regardless, it still wouldn't have been as helpful as it has become without your effort of detail!!!!

For those of you that don't know Mikey originally began this "build" on another forum, at CVO HARLEY and so there is some additional discussion that was held there as well, if anyone is interested you can simply reference the "LINK" below for other information.....

CLICK HERE

Just be aware that I believe you must become a member to see "photos" that are posted.....

Regards,

"Classic"

[fxr4mikey]

Just wanted to mention the 'break-in' process that I used  .....

I broke mine in hard over the first 40 miles. I warmed her up in the driveway until the rocker boxes were quite warm to the touch ...

then I rode her for 7 miles to get her fully warmed up

Then for the next 30 miles I rode her like this ....
3rd gear (almost ALL the time), 30MPH, HIT IT, wide open throttle up to 70MPH (sometimes only up to 55-65, but mostly to 70)
then shut the throttle down and let the compression slow the bike back down to 30MPH, then HIT IT again, and again
went out about 20 miles, and returned doing the same thing.

As far as I'm concerned, she's all broke in.
I've changed the oil and filter ....

Now I ride her ANY WAY I want to

I just try to pay more attention to making sure that she is fully warmed up before I jump her bones

[98flstc]

Just wanted to mention the 'break-in' process that I used  .....

I broke mine in hard over the first 40 miles. I warmed her up in the driveway until the rocker boxes were quite warm to the touch ...

then I rode her for 7 miles to get her fully warmed up

Then for the next 30 miles I rode her like this ....
3rd gear (almost ALL the time), 30MPH, HIT IT, wide open throttle up to 70MPH (sometimes only up to 55-65, but mostly to 70)
then shut the throttle down and let the compression slow the bike back down to 30MPH, then HIT IT again, and again
went out about 20 miles, and returned doing the same thing.

As far as I'm concerned, she's all broke in.
I've changed the oil and filter ....

Now I ride her ANY WAY I want to

I just try to pay more attention to making sure that she is fully warmed up before I jump her bones


Mikey

Its great to hear your pleased with the build. I'm still going easy on mine until the weather warms up. Maybe today I'll play a little hookie and finish up the break in.  I will say that my intial impression is very favorable. The bike is much more responsive,crisp and pulls like never before.

I'll post more details later,

98'

[fxr4mikey]

Just wanted to mention the 'break-in' process that I used  .....

I broke mine in hard over the first 40 miles. I warmed her up in the driveway until the rocker boxes were quite warm to the touch ...

then I rode her for 7 miles to get her fully warmed up

Then for the next 30 miles I rode her like this ....
3rd gear (almost ALL the time), 30MPH, HIT IT, wide open throttle up to 70MPH (sometimes only up to 55-65, but mostly to 70)
then shut the throttle down and let the compression slow the bike back down to 30MPH, then HIT IT again, and again
went out about 20 miles, and returned doing the same thing.

As far as I'm concerned, she's all broke in.
I've changed the oil and filter ....

Now I ride her ANY WAY I want to

I just try to pay more attention to making sure that she is fully warmed up before I jump her bones


Mikey

Its great to hear your pleased with the build. I'm still going easy on mine until the weather warms up. Maybe today I'll play a little hookie and finish up the break in.  I will say that my intial impression is very favorable. The bike is much more responsive,crisp and pulls like never before.

I'll post more details later,

98'

YEAH MAN !!! COME ON with the DETAILS !!!!!!!!!!!  Tell us ALL ABOUT IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[fxr4mikey]

Just wanted to say THANK YOU TO EVERYONE that helped me over the last year, plus, while I was picking parts and trying to figure out how I was gonna do a build on my bike.


I got more out of doing the build on my bike than I could have ever imagined.  I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome!!!

But I got so much more out of it than just a better performing motorcycle!!.  It was a Most Wonderful Experience !!  I'm sure glad that I did it, and I'm sure Glad that all of you were there rooting me on !!  Thanks  EVERYONE !!!!


Mikey

[fxr4mikey]

Just wanted yall to know ..... I put about 15K on the build last year ..... still NO PROBLEMS and the bike runs GREAT !!!!

She's HOT and ready to RUN  !!!!!!!!!!!

[evo58]

congrats Mike, congrats for the nice and clean job, perfect and made with a special care as i see,
the tires... they are made near my hometown, im using the metz too on the front and rear, but as i was reading the americans bikers dislike them, did you keep the 9:5:1 on the SE heads???
congrats
Evo

[Buddy WMC]

congrats Mike, congrats for the nice and clean job, perfect and made with a special care as i see,
the tires... they are made near my hometown, im using the metz too on the front and rear, but as i was reading the americans bikers dislike them, did you keep the 9:5:1 on the SE heads???
congrats
Evo

FYI,
Metzeler has had some documented problems with the tires made in Brazil delaminating. I have seen this first hand on bike brought into the shop, large chunks of rubber just flying off the tire. When I personally saw this, I removed my Metzelers and swapped them out for Avon Venoms. I'll pay for a bit more wear with the softer compound Avons, to loosing a tire at high speed. A search will reveal the issue, just facts.

[evo58]

I knew it, but i didnt knew it why,  i use the Mets, 160.80.16, but sometimes they come from gernamy, i dont know why, in the Metz factory , they make the Pirelli, a little bit cheapper, but i dont like, i rather the mets, Avons arent  popular around here, the Dunlops are so high $$$$, some people use the Bridgstone (Firestone)  that are very cheap.
and finally the Michelin not so high likethe Dunlop ,but very good tires...
Evo

[fxr4mikey]

congrats Mike, congrats for the nice and clean job, perfect and made with a special care as i see,
the tires... they are made near my hometown, im using the metz too on the front and rear, but as i was reading the americans bikers dislike them, did you keep the 9:5:1 on the SE heads???
congrats
Evo

Yes, I did.  I used the heads in their stock form, directly out of the box and onto the cylinders just the way they shipped from the MoCo

[fxr4mikey]

Just wanted to mention the 'break-in' process that I used  .....

I broke mine in hard over the first 40 miles. I warmed her up in the driveway until the rocker boxes were quite warm to the touch ...

then I rode her for 7 miles to get her fully warmed up

Then for the next 30 miles I rode her like this ....
3rd gear (almost ALL the time), 30MPH, HIT IT, wide open throttle up to 70MPH (sometimes only up to 55-65, but mostly to 70)
then shut the throttle down and let the compression slow the bike back down to 30MPH, then HIT IT again, and again
went out about 20 miles, and returned doing the same thing.

As far as I'm concerned, she's all broke in.
I've changed the oil and filter ....

Now I ride her ANY WAY I want to

I just try to pay more attention to making sure that she is fully warmed up before I jump her bones


Mikey

Its great to hear your pleased with the build. I'm still going easy on mine until the weather warms up. Maybe today I'll play a little hookie and finish up the break in.  I will say that my intial impression is very favorable. The bike is much more responsive,crisp and pulls like never before.

I'll post more details later,

98'

Hey 98'  ...............  it's later already, where's the details     

[98flstc]

Boy I'll say its later allright! about 15k miles later and I'm still smiling   The W6 and the gearing change from 2:92 final(stock) to about a 3:15 (per the baker website) has transformed my bike into a pure joy to ride. The bike is a tank when all loaded down with gear & bags and to be able to roll the throttle open in 5th and cruise into the triple digit range on the speedo (just in case ) was something not possible before the changes. I sure like my EVO and plan to keep it on the road for many more years.....but, I  do like the looks of the new 2011 Road Glide Ultra.......

[fxr4mikey]

98 ....

Nice going !!!

Glad to hear that you're having FUN with it !! and to see that you have that many more miles on it .....

I know your SMILE FACTOR went X10 when you got done  !!