Heat cycling a new engine

[aceman2101]

Took delivery today of a brand new 2013 Street Glide. The odometer reads 4 miles. Since it is too cold and the roads to icey to ride rite now , would it be beneficial to heat cycle the engine at this point?, or should I wait until riding weather. I know the bike has been started several times already.  Does the factory heat cycle the engine ?

[Ohio HD]

Honestly, with four miles on it, your past heat cycling, at least as I do them. The point of heat cycling is to start the motor several times, not long enough to get the cylinders warm to the point of you can't keep your hand on it. Then let it cool completely, repeat as desired. Generally the first couple of starts, I only let it run about 20 seconds.

What I would do at this point, when you can ride it, take the RPM's up and down in 2nd and 3rd gear. No lugging, but low as 1,500, then run up to 3,500, let the motor decel back to 1,500, repeat, repeat. Work your way to 4th gear, but not placing high load on it yet.

[rbabos]

Took delivery today of a brand new 2013 Street Glide. The odometer reads 4 miles. Since it is too cold and the roads to icey to ride rite now , would it be beneficial to heat cycle the engine at this point?, or should I wait until riding weather. I know the bike has been started several times already.  Does the factory heat cycle the engine ?

They probably do a flaming burnout to the transport truck.
Ron

[Ohio HD]

Took delivery today of a brand new 2013 Street Glide. The odometer reads 4 miles. Since it is too cold and the roads to icey to ride rite now , would it be beneficial to heat cycle the engine at this point?, or should I wait until riding weather. I know the bike has been started several times already.  Does the factory heat cycle the engine ?

They probably do a flaming burnout to the transport truck.
Ron

   

[Panzer]

When I got my recent new bike, the dealer told me (he rides too) to hold it at 50 mph or under till the clock gets 500 miles on it.
I did as instructed for 300 and took her up to 60, then up and down at 70 for the next 200.
When I got my first new bike (an FLH) I was told not to baby it or it will always want to be babied.
I didn't abuse the bikes, just took it in gentle steps and they did run good as they said it would.

BTW.............congrats on the new ride & lots of great smiles.   

[chopper]

When I got my recent new bike, the dealer told me (he rides too) to hold it at 50 mph or under till the clock gets 500 miles on it.

Thats what the dealer told me when I bought my 02 new...

sorry folks, but 50 mph in fifth gear is lugging in my book.

[aceman2101]

Honestly, with four miles on it, your past heat cycling, at least as I do them. The point of heat cycling is to start the motor several times, not long enough to get the cylinders warm to the point of you can't keep your hand on it. Then let it cool completely, repeat as desired. Generally the first couple of starts, I only let it run about 20 seconds.

What I would do at this point, when you can ride it, take the RPM's up and down in 2nd and 3rd gear. No lugging, but low as 1,500, then run up to 3,500, let the motor decel back to 1,500, repeat, repeat. Work your way to 4th gear, but not placing high load on it yet.

Kinda what I was thinking also, vary rpm alot, not over 3000-3200rpm. for the first 200-300 miles.

[aceman2101]

When I got my recent new bike, the dealer told me (he rides too) to hold it at 50 mph or under till the clock gets 500 miles on it.
I did as instructed for 300 and took her up to 60, then up and down at 70 for the next 200.
When I got my first new bike (an FLH) I was told not to baby it or it will always want to be babied.
I didn't abuse the bikes, just took it in gentle steps and they did run good as they said it would.

BTW.............congrats on the new ride & lots of great smiles.   

Gonna be real hard to keep it under 50mph for 500 miles, definantly vary the rpm, no lugging. First oil change at 200 miles

[Coyote]

Ride 50 moderate miles then ride it like you stole it. Works for me. 

[Ohio HD]

Honestly, with four miles on it, your past heat cycling, at least as I do them. The point of heat cycling is to start the motor several times, not long enough to get the cylinders warm to the point of you can't keep your hand on it. Then let it cool completely, repeat as desired. Generally the first couple of starts, I only let it run about 20 seconds.

What I would do at this point, when you can ride it, take the RPM's up and down in 2nd and 3rd gear. No lugging, but low as 1,500, then run up to 3,500, let the motor decel back to 1,500, repeat, repeat. Work your way to 4th gear, but not placing high load on it yet.

Kinda what I was thinking also, vary rpm alot, not over 3000-3200rpm. for the first 200-300 miles.

You just want to be sure to not be too gentle, and not seat the rings completely. Think of most guys with brand spanking new performance motors that need dyno tuned. Most break them in on the dyno, then WFO. They don't run them 200 miles on the dyno.

My 107, I was shifting at 4,500 within 15 or so miles. I was shifting it at 6,000 (a couple times) the same day, maybe 25 miles on it. But I also did heat cycle it too.

[Ohio HD]

Ride 50 moderate miles then ride it like you stole it. Works for me. 

[Merc63]

I am going to run mine was, let it build some heat and check for leaks, etc.

Next run will be on the dyno for some break in and tune.

[ThumperDeuce]

My last few builds have had 3 heat cycles and then off to the dyno.

[JohnCA58]

Brand new bike with 6 miles,   your are beyond any point of doing heat cycles.  just ride it when you can weather wise like you normally ride.   

[Merc63]

My last few builds have had 3 heat cycles and then off to the dyno.

What was your procedure once you hit the dyno?

[hbkeith]

I am going to run mine was, let it build some heat and check for leaks, etc.

Next run will be on the dyno for some break in and tune.

my buddy did that on his 110hp TC build, started smoking on the dyno.

[Deye76]

This S&S Cycle procedure has worked well for many: For a factory engine after a few hundred miles of varying engine speed you should be OK. The important part of this procedure is the first 50 miles, not lugging and an early oil change. 

Engine Break-In Procedure

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun!

[black]

This S&S Cycle procedure has worked well for many: For a factory engine after a few hundred miles of varying engine speed you should be OK. The important part of this procedure is the first 50 miles, not lugging and an early oil change. 

Engine Break-In Procedure

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun!

[joe_lyons]

Wow ohio I bet that took a while.  Lol.
I like an altered moto man method and has worked great for me.  But that's where I love mahle pistons with graphal and sst rings also.

[q1svt]

Wow ohio I bet that took a while.  Lol.
I like an altered moto man method and has worked great for me.  But that's where I love mahle pistons with graphal and theater rings also.

depending on ring package and cylinder hone... 

even Baisley Hi-Performance directs their customers towards moto man's approaches
http://www.baisley.com/links.htm

[harborjohn]

This Jerkoff will take it easy on my new bikes for the first 50-100 miles making sure the motor gets heat cycled during that time and making sure I go up and down with the RPMs. Then I ride it like I normally do. I remember doing 135 MPH on my V-Rod when it had 200 miles on it. That same bike runs better today then it did when I bought it. Its 2013 not 1950. Motors are tighter and better.

[joe_lyons]

I wonder if the guy at the harley facility thinks of heat cycling when he runs the bike up to redline through the gears a few times enough to get 1 mile on it?  Wonder if he is on commission?

[bigfoot5x]

My first Harley was a 2000 SuperGlide bought new on April Fool's day. Always wondered if that meant anything? The salesman said ride it 500 miles at no more than 50 mph. That was a killer to do. After that I have read the owners manual. It says 50 mph for 50 miles (much easier to do!) and then ride it like normal but no wide open throttle for 500 miles. I've never had a problem with this break in, even after boring out a couple of bikes and adding bolt in cams. I have 85,000 miles on the current bike.

[Big Cahuna]

I always get a kick out of these break in procedures. Years ago I took a tour of the now defunct General motors plant in Linden new jersey. This was when they made Cadillac's there. You would start at the beginning of the line and follow a car to the end took forever. One of the tests they would do is put the car on a test dyno to check out the trans operation. Theses guys would pull up squeeling the wheels, then take the cars up to 120 mph to be sure the trans shifted correctly. Then after the car was delivered to the dealer they give the new owner the drive slow and easy for 500 miles speel.,,

[Dennis The Menace]

I wonder if the guy at the harley facility thinks of heat cycling when he runs the bike up to redline through the gears a few times enough to get 1 mile on it?  Wonder if he is on commission?

Yepp.  All the bikes are run at the factory and revved through all the gears for checkout.  The heat cycle was done at that stage.  If not the delivery setup of the bike calls for a ride as well, so its done deal, IMO.  I would ride it normally, tho I dont ride the snot out of the bike.