Heat cycling a new engine

[aceman2101]

Took delivery today of a brand new 2013 Street Glide. The odometer reads 4 miles. Since it is too cold and the roads to icey to ride rite now , would it be beneficial to heat cycle the engine at this point?, or should I wait until riding weather. I know the bike has been started several times already.  Does the factory heat cycle the engine ?

[Ohio HD]

Honestly, with four miles on it, your past heat cycling, at least as I do them. The point of heat cycling is to start the motor several times, not long enough to get the cylinders warm to the point of you can't keep your hand on it. Then let it cool completely, repeat as desired. Generally the first couple of starts, I only let it run about 20 seconds.

What I would do at this point, when you can ride it, take the RPM's up and down in 2nd and 3rd gear. No lugging, but low as 1,500, then run up to 3,500, let the motor decel back to 1,500, repeat, repeat. Work your way to 4th gear, but not placing high load on it yet.

[rbabos]

Took delivery today of a brand new 2013 Street Glide. The odometer reads 4 miles. Since it is too cold and the roads to icey to ride rite now , would it be beneficial to heat cycle the engine at this point?, or should I wait until riding weather. I know the bike has been started several times already.  Does the factory heat cycle the engine ?

They probably do a flaming burnout to the transport truck.
Ron

[Ohio HD]

Took delivery today of a brand new 2013 Street Glide. The odometer reads 4 miles. Since it is too cold and the roads to icey to ride rite now , would it be beneficial to heat cycle the engine at this point?, or should I wait until riding weather. I know the bike has been started several times already.  Does the factory heat cycle the engine ?

They probably do a flaming burnout to the transport truck.
Ron

   

[Panzer]

When I got my recent new bike, the dealer told me (he rides too) to hold it at 50 mph or under till the clock gets 500 miles on it.
I did as instructed for 300 and took her up to 60, then up and down at 70 for the next 200.
When I got my first new bike (an FLH) I was told not to baby it or it will always want to be babied.
I didn't abuse the bikes, just took it in gentle steps and they did run good as they said it would.

BTW.............congrats on the new ride & lots of great smiles.   

[chopper]

When I got my recent new bike, the dealer told me (he rides too) to hold it at 50 mph or under till the clock gets 500 miles on it.

Thats what the dealer told me when I bought my 02 new...

sorry folks, but 50 mph in fifth gear is lugging in my book.

[aceman2101]

Honestly, with four miles on it, your past heat cycling, at least as I do them. The point of heat cycling is to start the motor several times, not long enough to get the cylinders warm to the point of you can't keep your hand on it. Then let it cool completely, repeat as desired. Generally the first couple of starts, I only let it run about 20 seconds.

What I would do at this point, when you can ride it, take the RPM's up and down in 2nd and 3rd gear. No lugging, but low as 1,500, then run up to 3,500, let the motor decel back to 1,500, repeat, repeat. Work your way to 4th gear, but not placing high load on it yet.

Kinda what I was thinking also, vary rpm alot, not over 3000-3200rpm. for the first 200-300 miles.

[aceman2101]

When I got my recent new bike, the dealer told me (he rides too) to hold it at 50 mph or under till the clock gets 500 miles on it.
I did as instructed for 300 and took her up to 60, then up and down at 70 for the next 200.
When I got my first new bike (an FLH) I was told not to baby it or it will always want to be babied.
I didn't abuse the bikes, just took it in gentle steps and they did run good as they said it would.

BTW.............congrats on the new ride & lots of great smiles.   

Gonna be real hard to keep it under 50mph for 500 miles, definantly vary the rpm, no lugging. First oil change at 200 miles

[Coyote]

Ride 50 moderate miles then ride it like you stole it. Works for me. 

[Ohio HD]

Honestly, with four miles on it, your past heat cycling, at least as I do them. The point of heat cycling is to start the motor several times, not long enough to get the cylinders warm to the point of you can't keep your hand on it. Then let it cool completely, repeat as desired. Generally the first couple of starts, I only let it run about 20 seconds.

What I would do at this point, when you can ride it, take the RPM's up and down in 2nd and 3rd gear. No lugging, but low as 1,500, then run up to 3,500, let the motor decel back to 1,500, repeat, repeat. Work your way to 4th gear, but not placing high load on it yet.

Kinda what I was thinking also, vary rpm alot, not over 3000-3200rpm. for the first 200-300 miles.

You just want to be sure to not be too gentle, and not seat the rings completely. Think of most guys with brand spanking new performance motors that need dyno tuned. Most break them in on the dyno, then WFO. They don't run them 200 miles on the dyno.

My 107, I was shifting at 4,500 within 15 or so miles. I was shifting it at 6,000 (a couple times) the same day, maybe 25 miles on it. But I also did heat cycle it too.

[Ohio HD]

Ride 50 moderate miles then ride it like you stole it. Works for me. 

[Merc63]

I am going to run mine was, let it build some heat and check for leaks, etc.

Next run will be on the dyno for some break in and tune.

[ThumperDeuce]

My last few builds have had 3 heat cycles and then off to the dyno.

[JohnCA58]

Brand new bike with 6 miles,   your are beyond any point of doing heat cycles.  just ride it when you can weather wise like you normally ride.   

[Merc63]

My last few builds have had 3 heat cycles and then off to the dyno.

What was your procedure once you hit the dyno?

[hbkeith]

I am going to run mine was, let it build some heat and check for leaks, etc.

Next run will be on the dyno for some break in and tune.

my buddy did that on his 110hp TC build, started smoking on the dyno.

[Deye76]

This S&S Cycle procedure has worked well for many: For a factory engine after a few hundred miles of varying engine speed you should be OK. The important part of this procedure is the first 50 miles, not lugging and an early oil change. 

Engine Break-In Procedure

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun!

[black]

This S&S Cycle procedure has worked well for many: For a factory engine after a few hundred miles of varying engine speed you should be OK. The important part of this procedure is the first 50 miles, not lugging and an early oil change. 

Engine Break-In Procedure

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun!

[joe_lyons]

Wow ohio I bet that took a while.  Lol.
I like an altered moto man method and has worked great for me.  But that's where I love mahle pistons with graphal and sst rings also.

[q1svt]

Wow ohio I bet that took a while.  Lol.
I like an altered moto man method and has worked great for me.  But that's where I love mahle pistons with graphal and theater rings also.

depending on ring package and cylinder hone... 

even Baisley Hi-Performance directs their customers towards moto man's approaches
http://www.baisley.com/links.htm

[harborjohn]

This Jerkoff will take it easy on my new bikes for the first 50-100 miles making sure the motor gets heat cycled during that time and making sure I go up and down with the RPMs. Then I ride it like I normally do. I remember doing 135 MPH on my V-Rod when it had 200 miles on it. That same bike runs better today then it did when I bought it. Its 2013 not 1950. Motors are tighter and better.

[joe_lyons]

I wonder if the guy at the harley facility thinks of heat cycling when he runs the bike up to redline through the gears a few times enough to get 1 mile on it?  Wonder if he is on commission?

[bigfoot5x]

My first Harley was a 2000 SuperGlide bought new on April Fool's day. Always wondered if that meant anything? The salesman said ride it 500 miles at no more than 50 mph. That was a killer to do. After that I have read the owners manual. It says 50 mph for 50 miles (much easier to do!) and then ride it like normal but no wide open throttle for 500 miles. I've never had a problem with this break in, even after boring out a couple of bikes and adding bolt in cams. I have 85,000 miles on the current bike.

[Big Cahuna]

I always get a kick out of these break in procedures. Years ago I took a tour of the now defunct General motors plant in Linden new jersey. This was when they made Cadillac's there. You would start at the beginning of the line and follow a car to the end took forever. One of the tests they would do is put the car on a test dyno to check out the trans operation. Theses guys would pull up squeeling the wheels, then take the cars up to 120 mph to be sure the trans shifted correctly. Then after the car was delivered to the dealer they give the new owner the drive slow and easy for 500 miles speel.,,

[Dennis The Menace]

I wonder if the guy at the harley facility thinks of heat cycling when he runs the bike up to redline through the gears a few times enough to get 1 mile on it?  Wonder if he is on commission?

Yepp.  All the bikes are run at the factory and revved through all the gears for checkout.  The heat cycle was done at that stage.  If not the delivery setup of the bike calls for a ride as well, so its done deal, IMO.  I would ride it normally, tho I dont ride the snot out of the bike.

[Ohio HD]

I always get a kick out of these break in procedures. Years ago I took a tour of the now defunct General motors plant in Linden new jersey. This was when they made Cadillac's there. You would start at the beginning of the line and follow a car to the end took forever. One of the tests they would do is put the car on a test dyno to check out the trans operation. Theses guys would pull up squeeling the wheels, then take the cars up to 120 mph to be sure the trans shifted correctly. Then after the car was delivered to the dealer they give the new owner the drive slow and easy for 500 miles speel.,,

  At the now defunked Norwood Ohio assembly plant, they made Camaros and Firebirds. I knew guys that worked there, what do you think happened to the Z28's and Firebird Formula's that came out on the way to the parking spots?

It wasn't like this...    

[hd06myway]

The thing your forgetting is a Dyno run isn't more thna a mile or 2 at best,  right?  Well, breaking in an engine on a dyno won't hurt it because your not there that long... it's not 50 or 500 miles... break it in like the MFG'er recommends, or don't complain later when your bike's burning oil or has leaky seals... 

[Ohio HD]

That shows how little you know, the motor isn't broken in while tuning, it's done before, and is several miles.

[Coyote]

The thing your forgetting is a Dyno run isn't more thna a mile or 2 at best,  right?  Well, breaking in an engine on a dyno won't hurt it because your not there that long... it's not 50 or 500 miles... break it in like the MFG'er recommends, or don't complain later when your bike's burning oil or has leaky seals... 

Bob at RC Cycles routinely breaks in bikes on the dyno and it's a lot more than a mile or two. More like 50 or so I'd say. IMO, that's the preferred way to break in a new motor as it's controlled, the engine is monitored and kept well cooled.

Still it's only 50 miles and that's enough IMO. After that, just ride the thing.

[joe_lyons]

When i build motors I break them on on the dyno myself so that I know how it got broke in so that I would not issues later on with the customer. Its a CYA thing.

[hd06myway]

So if the Factory breaks them in on a dyno... then why do they sell them with breakin directions?  Are you saying they break them in at the Milwakee Motor Trans factory?  Because they don't dyno them at the York facikity.  Break yours in the way you like, mine don't leak a drop of oil, even at over 100k mi.  I'm sure your's don't either right! LOL!   I'm not talking some backyard garage shop that built your latest "custom", I'm talking a genuine Harley, not a knockoff....

[Ohio HD]

I can honestly say that the motors I had built and broken in years ago, before I learned how to do it, they ran fine, but ran soft, and usually used some oil. That was babying them, and not putting enough emphasis on getting the rings sealed well.

This is another reason I use Bore-Techs carbide bore on performance applications. Almost immediate ring seal, as well as natural lubricity, no chances of piston galling either.





Brian

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ohio HD]

So if the Factory breaks them in on a dyno... then why do they sell them with breakin directions?  Are you saying they break them in at the Milwakee Motor Trans factory?  Because they don't dyno them at the York facikity.  Break yours in the way you like, mine don't leak a drop of oil, even at over 100k mi.  I'm sure your's don't either right! LOL!   I'm not talking some backyard garage shop that built your latest "custom", I'm talking a genuine Harley, not a knockoff....

That's right, mine (SG) don't leak, mine don't burn oil, and mine has no oil in the breather line.

However the Ultra I have that I bought used, uses some oil, and blows oil in the air breather. A bike like that I guarantee someone babied from day one. The parts didn't wear in correctly. It has only 20k miles. I've had it since 6k miles.




Brian

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Deye76]

Big differences in babying, and riding the snot out of it, won't be the same between 2 individuals. Ideally one is looking for a balance between the 2. And what they do with water cooled auto's won't have the same affect as an air cooled engine. Piston to cylinder fit will play a role too. If it's set up tight the S&S method works everytime,  stock factory motor you can ride it a little harder sooner. YMMV

[Ohio HD]

I don't think anyone is suggesting beating the snot out of it. You can run a motor hard and not be beating it. If OEM manufacturers of motorcycles and cars didn't put such take it easy break in instructions on a vehicle, they'd be working on warranty claims till the cows came home. Also the instructions are for those that can't tell the difference between beating and running a motor. Personally I don't beat any motor, but I do run them within their potential and design.

[Dennis The Menace]

Yes, defining beating the motor has many meanings to as many people riding.

I used MotoMan guidelines to run it up in rpms in a controlled manner, and back down the same.  Going from zero to WFO isnt the right way, it needs to build RPM at a moderate, steady pace.  Not just full on, full off.  Its controlled heating of the motor.

So, hope that helps to make "beat the snot out of it" definition a little more clear.  As I see it, beating the motor would be to over rev it, go WFO from a dead stop, harsh downshifts, etc.  That may be fine (or not) on a mature motor, but not a brand new motor being heat cycled.

I also think heat cycling applies to the motor.  Break-in applies the bike, unless its referring only to the motor.  Break in of a new bike would mean to take it easy to allow the drive train wear in, rubber to scuff on the tires, lube to settle in bearings, etc.  So, they are not the same when referring to a motor, versus the entire bike.

[Deye76]

"I don't think anyone is suggesting beating the snot out of it."

"Ride it like you stole it" advised this thread.

You tell me the difference. 

I suggested a balanced approach, like I said how it's built has an impact. I've only broken in 13 motors (Pan, Shovel, Evo, & TC) with no ring, cylinder issues,  so I'm a newbie of sorts. 
Original Poster, hope your not confused, these can be like oil threads. Best Regards.     

[Ohio HD]

"I don't think anyone is suggesting beating the snot out of it."

"Ride it like you stole it" advised this thread.

You tell me the difference. 

I suggested a balanced approach, like I said how it's built has an impact. I've only broken in 13 motors (Pan, Shovel, Evo, & TC) with no ring, cylinder issues,  so I'm a newbie of sorts. 
Original Poster, hope your not confused, these can be like oil threads. Best Regards.     

I still wouldn't beat a stolen bike....     

It's just an expression ya know.   

[texaskatfish]

*hands clasped towards Heaven* :

"Lord PLEASE send some these folks some warmer riding weather STAT!"       

[ramcr913]

I have a chop build in progress and hope to spark off a new 120" El Bruto within the next month or two. I had pretty much planned to follow Ultima's recommendations on heat-cycling and subsequent break-in. But I think instead I will revive this thread and ask for recommendations... I still need to get recommendations on which oil to put in it too.

[aceman2101]

so we are all in agreement that heat cycling this engine wouldnt accomplish anything at this point in time. Here's what im gonna do. Im gonna take it easy the first couple of hundred miles. By this I mean nothing over 3500 rpms, The rpm will be varied alot. Hopefully the weather will cooperate this weekend.     Thanks everyone for your insight

[Dennis The Menace]

Ace, just ride her.  You cant break anything at this point, the motor is pretty much seasoned, between the factory check and the PDO done by the dealer.  If you still want to be sure, then using the same principle as a new motor is fine....dont idle for a long period, dont doa  bunch of 0-WFO runs, and just run it slow and steady up to near redline and then back down in 2nd through 5th gears when you get a chance.  At that point, you are golden, IMO.

The tires can be a bit slick when new.  Other than that, I would just ride it as you normally would.  Bikes like that.  :-)

[aceman2101]

 

Ace, just ride her.  You cant break anything at this point, the motor is pretty much seasoned, between the factory check and the PDO done by the dealer.  If you still want to be sure, then using the same principle as a new motor is fine....dont idle for a long period, dont doa  bunch of 0-WFO runs, and just run it slow and steady up to near redline and then back down in 2nd through 5th gears when you get a chance.  At that point, you are golden, IMO.

The tires can be a bit slick when new.  Other than that, I would just ride it as you normally would.  Bikes like that.  :-)

[bigpete1]

Ride 50 moderate miles then ride it like you stole it. Works for me. 

works forme as well and it is under warranty 

[hbkeith]

Ace, just ride her.  You cant break anything at this point, the motor is pretty much seasoned, between the factory check and the PDO done by the dealer.  If you still want to be sure, then using the same principle as a new motor is fine....dont idle for a long period, dont doa  bunch of 0-WFO runs, and just run it slow and steady up to near redline and then back down in 2nd through 5th gears when you get a chance.  At that point, you are golden, IMO.

The tires can be a bit slick when new.  Other than that, I would just ride it as you normally would.  Bikes like that.  :-)

OP was about a new bike from dealer,rebuilds and a new bike are diferant

[hd06myway]

Now that we have the engine question answered.. how about those tires.. Have you broke them in yet?    Yes, there is a breakin period for tires, first 100 miles take it easy! 

[Deye76]

Now that we have the engine question answered.. how about those tires.. Have you broke them in yet?    Yes, there is a breakin period for tires, first 100 miles take it easy! 

[HarleyHiwayMan]

Brand new bike with 6 miles,   your are beyond any point of doing heat cycles.  just ride it when you can weather wise like you normally ride.   

Agree. I don't beat the hell out of mine, so I just rolled the last few new bikes as if they had 20,000 miles on them. All went perfect.

[Dennis The Menace]

Now that we have the engine question answered.. how about those tires.. Have you broke them in yet?    Yes, there is a breakin period for tires, first 100 miles take it easy! 

If you want to talk tires, start a new thread.  OP was asking about motor heat cycling, not tires.

[nibroc]

sounds like another oil thread starting

[Deye76]

Now that we have the engine question answered.. how about those tires.. Have you broke them in yet?    Yes, there is a breakin period for tires, first 100 miles take it easy! 

If you want to talk tires, start a new thread.  OP was asking about motor heat cycling, not tires.

I thought he was joking  least that's how I took it.

[rbabos]

Now that we have the engine question answered.. how about those tires.. Have you broke them in yet?    Yes, there is a breakin period for tires, first 100 miles take it easy! 

If you want to talk tires, start a new thread.  OP was asking about motor heat cycling, not tires.

I thought he was joking  least that's how I took it.

Technically he's correct, but don't apply here.
Ron

[hd06myway]

Now that we have the engine question answered.. how about those tires.. Have you broke them in yet?    Yes, there is a breakin period for tires, first 100 miles take it easy! 

If you want to talk tires, start a new thread.  OP was asking about motor heat cycling, not tires.

I was just making light, but there is a breakin period with tires... but that's another thread somewhere else... 

[les]

I have a few questions about break in of the rings.

1) Can excessive heat on the edges of the rings cause damage or longevity problems?
2) Do the ring edges build more heat on a new engine than one that's been ridden for 100 miles, or so?
3) Does higher RPM result in higher ring temperatures due to friction?

[rbabos]

I have a few questions about break in of the rings.

1) Can excessive heat on the edges of the rings cause damage or longevity problems?
2) Do the ring edges build more heat on a new engine than one that's been ridden for 100 miles, or so?
3) Does higher RPM result in higher ring temperatures due to friction?

Yes to all the above. Ring land damage and microwelding from the high heat as well.
Ron

[les]

The physics of that makes sense to me too.  So, what's the best way to prevent this?  Is it to heat cycle and conduct break in rides for a reasonable time?  Or, is it to fire the new engine up and ride the hell out of it from the get go?  I'm trying to look at this from a logical, mechanical, and physical perspective.

[Dennis The Menace]

Its winter, so you have some time to read, right?  http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It has to do with getting the right temp and pressure to set the rings, and to wear the hone properly of the cylinder.  Not too much, and not too little.  The hone of the cylinder is key to long life of the rings and the role they play in oil control and cylinder pressure.

[les]

Thank you very much for the link.  I've read his writings before.  It's interesting that honing techniques have changed.  I'm thinking that perhaps stone has recently changed.

[RK101]

If you've ever been to the York Plant you'd see how those 4 miles got on there. They run the bikes on rollers up to about 60/70 mph. They do all the dignostic checks on it at the time.
When I got my roadking I just road it like I'd normally ride it. I didn't beat it nor did I baby it. However I kept the trips short at first and under 60 MPH for the first 100 miles.. . What I did do was change my oil and filter in all three holes the first 100, 500, and 1000 miles. At the 1000 miles I started using Mobil one 20/50 and Purolar oil filters. That was back in 04 and to this day the bikes motor,primary, or trans has never had an oil related problem, nor have the cases been opened. If I was to buy another bike I'd do exactly the same thing, as I'm a big believer in doing new bikes oil changes early and often. Then every 3000 miles.  I've broken in three new Harley's the same way except the first two I remained using the HD dino oil for as long as I owned those two bikes. Congrats on the new bike.

[HarleyHiwayMan]

I bought 2 2011's and won a 2012. All three were ridden as I always ride, out of the gate from mile 4 (4 on when I bought). I changed the fluids the first time at 1000 miles. All run perfect, don't use fluids. The Road King Classic is 22 months old and has 47,700 miles, while the other two have many less miles. 6600 on the Street Bob, 3000 on the 2012 Forty Eight. I'd see no reason to baby or beat the hell out of the bikes, and see no need to dump out good fluids before 1000 miles.

[05FLHTC]

Good night nurse you all take the enjoyment right out of a new purchase for christ sake!

Just ride the thing enjoy & change the oil, this ain't yr Dads HD.

It's covered for 2 yrs so if it's got any flaws find em pronto, don't baby it along until the 2 yrs are up.

Don't lug now or ever enjoy & most important enjoy 

Did I say ENJOY