Belt adjustment

[2006FXDCI]

Getting ready to send my bike off to the dyno and need to adjust my final drive belt. I have the manual and the belt deflection tool . Book says 5/16 to 3/8 play in belt with rider on bike. What do you guys set yours at without someone being on the bike ?

[04 SE Deuce]

I would check the belt with and without rider to verify what tension change occurs on your bike when rider is added.  My bike gets tighter with rider but at some point as suspension travels further (or when 2-up) it eventually starts getting a little loser.  The belt should be the tightest when the axis of the mainshaft,  swingarm pivot and rear axle are all in a straight line.   Once you figure out the amount of change between with/without rider you can hit it real close without getting on the bike,  provided you don't adjust the suspension and change the ride height.  Then reach down and check it while sitting on bike,  you can also sit on the passenger seat to compress the suspension further and re-check.   Rick

[Boe Cole]

That spec always drove me crazy.  Just can't be on the bike and check the tension at the same time - don't have enough joints in my old body.  Thank heavens that HD revised it for the newer touring models to be with the wheel in the air.  Much simpler to do.

[2006FXDCI]

Thanks for the info, from what I've read the belt likes to be tighter rather than looser due to shock loading it. Boe, what is the book calling out for deflection with the rear wheel in the air ?

[Hossamania]

My method isn't necessarily factory approved, but the way I do it is to twist the belt. If it goes to about 45 degrees and then is quite tight and difficult to twist past that point, I call it good. With the wheel on the ground.
Haven't had an issue for years using this method. And that is with about 8 to 10 rear tire changes.

"Your results may vary."

[ckwizard]

My method isn't necessarily factory approved, but the way I do it is to twist the belt. If it goes to about 45 degrees and then is quite tight and difficult to twist past that point, I call it good. With the wheel on the ground.
Haven't had an issue for years using this method. And that is with about 8 to 10 rear tire changes.

"Your results may vary."

X2
Factory spec is too damn tight.
Ken

[Coyote]

My method isn't necessarily factory approved, but the way I do it is to twist the belt. If it goes to about 45 degrees and then is quite tight and difficult to twist past that point, I call it good. With the wheel on the ground.
Haven't had an issue for years using this method. And that is with about 8 to 10 rear tire changes.

"Your results may vary."

X2
Factory spec is too damn tight.
Ken

The belt needs to be tight

[04 SE Deuce]

The spec. on belt tension on a Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 (wide belt) would surprise you...way tight compared to Harley spec.  Buddy has one that I do tire changes on.  I scanned the Vulcan forum to see what some owners were saying,  they like and run them tight,  scares me.   Rick

[Boe Cole]

The book calls for the bike to be on the jiffy stand without any weight on it or on a lift with the rear wheel on the ground as follows:

FLHX,  FLTRX   1/4" - 5/16"

Other Models   3/8" - 7/16"

[truck]

The book calls for the bike to be on the jiffy stand without any weight on it or on a lift with the rear wheel on the ground as follows:

FLHX,  FLTRX   1/4" - 5/16"

Other Models   3/8" - 7/16"

How do you even measure that close? First you need to find the mid point of the belt. Is eyeballing it close enough or do you have to measure? Then you need to use the 10# pressure tool while you're in an uncomfortable position and you need something to measure with while straining your eyes to see the graduations. Be sure not to tilt that 10# pressure tool in either direction.

[2006FXDCI]

Thanks Boe, set mine at 3/8" play with bike on jiffy stand. should be good to go now. just installed a 30 tooth pulley and was glad to see I had enough adjustment left with the stock belt.

[Boe Cole]

In response to Truck, I usually just lay down on the floor and have a light behind me focused on the scale.  Checking the tension is the easiest part of the whole process.  Getting up and down and removing the exhaust to adjust the tension and getting back down and up several times is where my old body starts complaining.....  Wish they went back to the tensioners that you adjusted by turning a screw/bolt at the end of the swingarm.  Would eliminate a few ups and downs but I guess they went to the one adjuster does all because some people could not keep the back wheel straight - just my guess

[2006FXDCI]

Boe, thats how my dyna axle adjusts with the screws on both sides of the swingarm. Just like all my dirt bikes were    easy to do if you use the alignment tool .

[harleyjt]

That spec always drove me crazy.  Just can't be on the bike and check the tension at the same time - don't have enough joints in my old body.  Thank heavens that HD revised it for the newer touring models to be with the wheel in the air.  Much simpler to do.

I think you meant wheel on the ground without rider.
jt

[Boe Cole]

My 06 RG had two specs - one for when the bike was in the air and the other for on the ground without a rider.  The 11 RG calls for it to be in the air.  Do the Sportsters call for a rider to be on the bike?  Have had various bikes over the years and one of them called for the bike to be loaded with the rider.  Either that or my Alzheimer's is acting up again!!!!

[booker]

2000 rk i adjust the belt the way i used to adjust chains on my old bikes- up and down movement in the middle about 3/8", on the side stand with no one on the bike. the belt still looks good after 112,000 miles (original belt)

[harleyjt]

That spec always drove me crazy.  Just can't be on the bike and check the tension at the same time - don't have enough joints in my old body.  Thank heavens that HD revised it for the newer touring models to be with the wheel in the air.  Much simpler to do.

I think you meant wheel on the ground without rider.jt

Oops. Sorry Boe.  Right you are.  I went and checked in my '12 book.  Rear wheel off the ground or on jiffy stand without rider or luggage. 
jt

[Bruno-Katz Fokkerpilot]

My method isn't necessarily factory approved, but the way I do it is to twist the belt. If it goes to about 45 degrees and then is quite tight and difficult to twist past that point, I call it good. With the wheel on the ground.
Haven't had an issue for years using this method. And that is with about 8 to 10 rear tire changes.

"Your results may vary."

Yes, i just sit on the bike while its upright, bounce up and down a bit to get things all settled in then, just lean over to the left, take the belt between thumb and finger and twist. 45 degrees is good, any less is too tight.

[truck]

The 45 degree twist isn't real accurate is it? No doubt it works because you that do it are still riding. I'm a little gun shy since I had to replace two broken belt.
If a 98# weakling twists the belt 45* is it adjusted right? I'll bet Andre The Giant would twist it farther and probably break it too.

[Bruno-Katz Fokkerpilot]

The 45 degree twist isn't real accurate is it? No doubt it works because you that do it are still riding. I'm a little gun shy since I had to replace two broken belt.
If a 98# weakling twists the belt 45* is it adjusted right? I'll bet Andre The Giant would twist it farther and probably break it too.

45 degrees is 45 degrees no matter how strong your fingers are, hey Truck, y`all could use both your hands if your having a little trouble there! 

[truck]

It's only 45* if you stop twisting when you reach 45*

[rbabos]

The 45 degree twist isn't real accurate is it? No doubt it works because you that do it are still riding. I'm a little gun shy since I had to replace two broken belt.
If a 98# weakling twists the belt 45* is it adjusted right? I'll bet Andre The Giant would twist it farther and probably break it too.

45 degrees is 45 degrees no matter how strong your fingers are, hey Truck, y`all could use both your hands if your having a little trouble there! 

I think this logic is flawed. My wife could not rotate the belt 45*. Force applied definately effects amount of degrees.
Ron

[Hossamania]

How about this then: Have the belt set to factory specs by a mechanic or tech. Or go to the dealer to a new bike.
Twist the belt.
See how far it twists.
Now you know.  (Bet it's about 45 degrees!)

[Bruno-Katz Fokkerpilot]

Err, sorry guys you lost me now. If you look at the belt in its natural state, i.e. sitting there between front and rear pulley, when you look at it, its sitting flat, in the groove so to speak. Now, if you grasp the belt about midway on the top run between thumb and forefinger and then gently twist it by pulling up with the finger and pushing down with the thumb until the run of the belt is at approx 45 degs relative to the plane. If you have have difficulty getting the belt to 45 degrees, then, its just a little too tight. Anyone, even a female should be able to twist it this far if the belt is tensioned correctly. If you can twist it thru 45 to 90 degrees with ease then, its too slack. 

[Boe Cole]

Why not just buy the guage for $15 - $20 and be sure you got it right?  Twisting a belt could damage it as I do not believe it was meant to be twisted.  I'm frugal but find it cheaper to buy a guage than a belt.  Just my thoughts for what they are worth.