Screamin Eagle Pushrod Nuts

[Night hog]

Does anyone know where I can get some or what I can use to replace them with?  I was finishing up with my cam swap last night and on the last pushrod the nut broke in 3 pieces.  Of course I can only find 2 of those pieces, so I am going to have to take it all back apart.  I took off the lifter block and did not see it in there so I can only assume it went further down.  Thanks for your help.

[02FYRFTR]

http://www.nutsandbolts.com/nuts-c-35.html?zenid=3775b41039f824107fcba1c68a4dc0f7

[No Cents]

I broke one of those cheap ass weak SE p/rod nuts before too. So I went to the Tractor Supply Co. and bought 4-grade 8 24 tpi nuts...which are a larger diameter (bigger wrench size) so they need to be smaller so there will be no rubbing inside the p/rod tube. I placed two grade 8 nuts on a bolt with one of the SE p/rod nuts locked down inbetween the 2 new grade 8 nuts. Then I used a bench grinder and ground the flats down on the grade 8 nuts to match the size as the SE p/rod nut. Repeated the process for the other two nuts needed. Never had a problem since. The grade 8 nuts are not going to break and they worked out excellent.

[Ohio HD]

I think you can get them from Smith Brothers too. You just need to verify the threads per inch. Smith Bros uses 32 tpi on their Harley stuff, I think the SE are also 32 tpi.

[JohnCA58]

also if you use a good quality flare wrench on the nut,  they will not break.   BTDT   

[02FYRFTR]

 

also if you use a good quality flare wrench on the nut,  they will not break.   BTDT

[Tattoo]

also if you use a good quality flare wrench on the nut,  they will not break.   BTDT

[Tattoo]

 

[No Cents]

the tapered SE p/rods are 24 tpi
there are multiple write ups on a few different forums about the SE tapered p/rods nuts breaking. I couldn't believe it when mine broke. I didn't even have it all the way locked down and it split right down the middle and I had two pieces.   
I read somewhere a few months ago that HD was aware of the issue...and changed the nuts on them...they supposably went with a stronger nut...but I'm not positive on that...it could have been internet gobble deedoo. 

[Lowcountry Joe]

It's too bad so many guys have had to replace those nuts due to cracking.  I read so much about that issue when I was doing research on my cam change, I decided to stay away from the SE product and went with the finer threaded S&S quickie adjustable pushrods.  I've played with lifter preload adjustments a few times and all during that the nuts still jam good an tight and give you a good "pop" when you loose them for further adjustments.  Very happy with the S&S quickies.

[No Cents]

 
it is a shame so many of us were unfortunate with the jam nuts cracking or breaking. The SE tapered p/rod itself is a nice piece...just a shame you have to make an improvement on the not so strong nuts. But if you do replace them like I did with a grade 8 nut...it seems to be a plenty strong enough part that you won't have to worry about it again.

[RevFastEddy]

At the HD dealer.. They have 4 pack envelopes of nuts available....  fairly cheep as I remember..

[No Cents]

I think I had 48 cents in my 4- grade 8 nuts. It took me about 1/2 hour to grind them down so the flats were the same size as the factory SE p/rods nuts.
I know these wont break. Cheap peace of mind.

[Night hog]

Thanks for all the help.  I had to go out of town, but when I get back I am going to shop around and find some.

[Deye76]

"the tapered SE p/rods are 24 tpi"

The ones (SE) I got back in 2004 are also.

[harleytoprock]

I just bought 4 stainless steel nuts from Ace hardware. Then I machine the flats smaller on my mill. The SS nuts are not brittle like the Harley nuts. Grade 5 for this application would be better than Grade 8 as brittleness is the enemy here.

[Ohio HD]

Grade 5 for this application would be better than Grade 8 as brittleness is the enemy here.

[No Cents]

isnt grade 5 more softer than grade 8  I just went thru this on my rear pulley bolts...which were stainless steel.
The verdict was the stainless steel grade 5 bolts were more brittle/softer than the grade 8.  boy now I'm confused. I always thought grade 8 was stronger than 5 and has a way higher tensile strength.
All's I know is the grade 8 flange bolts in my rear pulley and the grade 8 nuts on my SE p/rods have been working fine for me and holding up to the abuse that I've been dishing out to my bike.
Knock on wood I guess.

[frito1]

isnt grade 5 more softer than grade 8  I just went thru this on my rear pulley bolts...which were stainless steel.
The verdict was the stainless steel grade 5 bolts were more brittle/softer than the grade 8.  boy now I'm confused. I always thought grade 8 was stronger than 5 and has a way higher tensile strength.
All's I know is the grade 8 flange bolts in my rear pulley and the grade 8 nuts on my SE p/rods have been working fine for me and holding up to the abuse that I've been dishing out to my bike.
Knock on wood I guess.

The key in your post is stainless.  Stainless is nice, but not the best solution for many applications.  Just because it's rust resistant it's not always stronger.  A high grade bolt is not always better than a lower grade bolt.  What it is being used for matters greatly.

[Overcamber]

 

[Admiral Akbar]

I just bought 4 stainless steel nuts from Ace hardware. Then I machine the flats smaller on my mill. The SS nuts are not brittle like the Harley nuts. Grade 5 for this application would be better than Grade 8 as brittleness is the enemy here.

Standard 18-8 stainless id closer to about grade 3 than grade 5..

Max

[Durwood]

I also have had cracked lock nuts with the tapered SE push rods, 2 sets, and replaced them with grade 5 hardware,however recently I have used Non tapered SE part number 17997-99a,they also are 1/2x3/8-24 tpi and they don't crack, 3 sets, no problem..

[harleytoprock]

The problem with the SE nuts is that they were not correctly heat treated for the material that they are made from. So, these thin walled nuts are brittle like glass. A softer nut pushed beyond its limits may strip threads or the flats may round off but they won't crack. Pushrod nuts don't need a lot of strength so softer is better here.
   Using SS bolts for pulleys is not good because the bolts are softer and will stretch. After they have stretched, there is movement in the loose bolt and they will fatigue and break. Grade 8 bolts for pulleys are better because they have a greater tensile strength compared to SS.

[koko3052]

The grade of bolts & nuts is ALL about APPLICATION!

[Night hog]

Called Smith Bros today, they only carry 32 tpi nuts and Harley doesn't have nuts in a bag so I guess I am going to Ace Hadware tomorrow to make some.