Clutch Assembly Question

[Julio]

Don't know if it's bad but none I've pulled off that tapered shaft have given up the fight that easy. Even with the puller there's usually quite a pop when it comes loose on the ones I've pulled off my own bike.

Was that nut properly torqued down 4 years ago?
Maybe the only thing that kept it from spinning off is the reverse thread and tab washer.   

[billbuilds]

     "couple of taps with a ball peen hammer..."
 
     Maybe once you got the puller in place and had wound the nut down to where there was some tension between the hub and the main shaft... and had tapped the nut with the ball peen... then it might have popped off.

     I'm curious - where did you tap the hub to make it come off?  Bill

[dirtymike]

I'm sure it was torqued, but four years is a stretch for my mind. I placed a piece of hard black walnut on top of the main hub, and pulled at the bottom with my hand and hit the wood a couple of times, not very hard. It has a tapered shaft also. That is what happened i swear. I was amazed to. Still aint got the puller. Waiting for parts. Going to have to replace one long finger, i bent one with my over zealous penning i guess. The rest are tight and do not move now. ordered three long studs(comes in a three pack), retainer springs, clutch retainer snap rings and a hub nut seat kit.  Ill post soon. going to NC next week. See my grand kids. Thanks Dirty 

[dirtymike]

here is some pics of the condition of the shafts an and primary tore down, its all coming back now. The 70's were heck on the memory. If you can remember them you was not there!





Got the disc today Julio, see the difference between the two, one is mine. Are mine in need of replacing?  Thanks, drilling it to fit a old broke pull handle.

[Julio]

Waiting for parts. Going to have to replace one long finger, i bent one with my over zealous penning i guess. The rest are tight and do not move now. ordered three long studs(comes in a three pack), retainer springs, clutch retainer snap rings and a hub nut seat kit.   

Why did you order retainer springs if you're using the plastic retainer? I posted a link to installation instructions on the third page.

Got the disc today Julio, see the difference between the two, one is mine. Are mine in need of replacing?  Thanks, drilling it to fit a old broke pull handle.

I don't know, did you measure it? There's thickness minimum spec in your manual.

[dirtymike]

I didn't even see the link Julio, Just read it, reason why the absence of the three springs. I haven't found the minimum thickness of clutch plates in the SM, yet.
Here is a pic of the shell, notice the wear in position 11 to 4 oclock


Is this an explanation for the loose hub?                                                 

[easyricer]

When my third compensator bit the bullet and my clutch basket dogs were worn to the point that the steels were hanging up making every take off from a stop feel more like a launch at the dragstrip (and my wallet was empty) I weighed the difference in replacing all of the worn parts against replacing the entire primary with a belt drive. (the BDL belt drive won by more than $200)
At first I was scared to death of a belt drive that I couldn't see, but it's been in there for almost 5000 miles now and other than having to readjust the tension on it a few times, it has given me no problems. At least 500 of those miles was pulling a cargo trailer with swapmeet junk or my tool box on it (and an occasional load of fire wood for the smoker)
The plus side, MUCH smoother clutch and gear changes, MUCH easier to find neutral, no more chain whip and (with a RAMJET retainer) no drag or pulling while backing the bike up in gear.
The down side, there is a part in there that can snap at any given time, the belt tensioner bearing is loud making my Shovel sound like it is supercharged, and (like now with all this rain in TEXAS) it's very prone to moisture making the clutch jerk until it warms up really well and then it smooths out.
Over all I'm OK with it. Shifting and clutch operation are similar to our EVO bagger other than I have to pay extra attention to cold operation. 
EASY

[dirtymike]

I got 80 bucks in it so far. Cheapest belt drive I found is 700 bucks. Don't know if the clutch disc need replacing. The thickness is.249. So if you use the "silk retainer" you don't need the retainer springs? Is the retainer thicker than the stock retainer plate? i don't have one to compare. Julio the SM says that the torque for the clutch hub nut is only 50-60, why are they so hard to get off. Any opinions on the clutch shell wear (see pics).

[76shuvlinoff]

The retainer probably comes with retaining clips like snap rings, no need for the springs.

The hub nut is only torqued to 50-60 pounds, left hand threaded of course, that's not what is hard to get off. If all surfaces are good the tapered output shaft mated to the tapered hub is what is difficult to separate after you get the nut off.

Mark

[billbuilds]

If the wear on your clutch shell is just superficial I wouldn't sweat it. If you can run your fingers over it and feel a noticeable dip where the worst of the wear appears then I'd say replace it. If the steel discs aren't grooved or warped they'll be fine. MY 78-1/2-84 SM says the friction discs should be replaced if they are grooved, glazed (shiny smooth and sometimes darkened), cracked, chipped or if the lining is worn down to 1/32" or less. Clutch hub nut should be a piece of cake to remove. Put bike in 4th gear. Remove chain guard and put one of your wedges Between the chain and the top inside of your rear sprocket. Or just sit on it on 4th gear with the rear brake on. I've used a Craftsman 1/2" ratchet and a 22" piece of auto jack handle for leverage. As Mark said, should only be 50-60 ft lbs of torque on that thing so it should come off easier than the compensating assembly nut. You'd aught to be able to pull that lever back toward you as you sit on the seat with the rear brake on.  HTH, Bill

[easyricer]

The one on the top left corner is what I'm running with a tensioner bearing. Yeah if you can feel the wear, it's time to do something about it.
http://www.powersportrider.com/cgi-bin/zcatjpg
EASY

[dirtymike]

Didnt get the pic Easy, went to power sport rider and had a blank page.

[76shuvlinoff]

Same here.

[easyricer]

LOL just gotta love technology....
It's the BDL Pan/Shovelhead enclosed 1 1/2 in 8mm beltdrive for electric start. Retails for $334.23.

EASY

[dirtymike]

That's temping, but im to far into this now. It blows up and that is the next thing going down. Always been a chain guy, don't know why.

[Julio]

That's a smoking deal on the BDL belt drive.
I'm curious why they have a fitment of '65-'78?
I know displacement went up to 80" in '79, but how did the primary components change?

[dirtymike]

The displacement for the big twin went to 1340(80ci) in 78-1/2. I got the tail end of the 74ci. I'm curious to, i have a inner primary for belt drive from the late shovels. Hers a pic, is this a good start.



Its a 9 hole "outer primary" bolt configuration? Make a difference?(opinions).  I'm measuring the bolt pattern on the 78-1/2 to figure the geometry.  Thanks Dirty

[billbuilds]

      Dirtymike, I don't think that your one piece Hitachi starter drive housing will bolt up to that belt final inner primary. It'll be close but the alignment dowels will be off. Are you thinking of going belt final? Bill

[Julio]

That's a smoking deal on the BDL belt drive.
I'm curious why they have a fitment of '65-'78?
I know displacement went up to 80" in '79, but how did the primary components change?

Sorry for the thread drift, but I was curious.

Meandered over to the BDL website and found the pages for the '65-'78 kit and the '79-'84 kit. They both use the same exact parts, except for the belts. I e-mailed the BDL technical dept. as to what the belt differences were. This was their reply, "The belt s are the same belt, but the (BE) belt is a little longer then the (ST), same 132  teeth just wound a little looser".
WTF does that mean? 
BTW, search the part numbers for these kits on E-Bay and you can get them for ~$20 cheaper and free shipping.
Just sayin'

[dirtymike]

I would like to do belts on primary and final drive. Aint sure what the inner came off of. The part or cast # is X30-0083. Is it a 83 model, what came out in 83 that was belt drive. Would be nice, no tensioner, no chain noise. I am not sure what else i need. A starter would be the first thing. Had this a while. Been dreaming. Thanks Dirty   

[easyricer]

I've heard of FLH models that had belt drive in 83 but I know that the FXSB was dual belt. I had one.
EASY

[billbuilds]

     Dirtymike, Easy's right - some of the FLH models had belt final in 1983. Also in 82 and 84 as well. I have an 83 FLHS (sport model; came thru without the batwing, bags or floorboards) that came thru with belt final. Other things that you'll need to run belt final; the bendix fork is different, the starter drive and starter drive shaft is different, the ring that the bendix fork engages on the starter drive shaft is different (it's the same one as was used in the 65-69's), the primary cover is different (it's a little deeper where the starter drive shaft goes in), and the clutch shell is different (ring gear is positioned out a bit more than the chain final). The starter itself is the same.  Bill

[dirtymike]

well i got the puller in. Didn't take but 16 days, didn't know Texas was that far.
http://www.mooresensible.com/universal-bolt-on-kits.html
Finished product, torqued and ready for outter.

Started it up and no noise as of yet. going for the maiden voyage Sunday. You guys have been a great help. Ill post results. thanks Dirty

[76shuvlinoff]

16 days to get a puller? I would have loaned you mine if I knew that. 

[dirtymike]

Went well, she run with that whine i remember so well. Run 100 miles up and down the rpm range. She cruise at 60 with ease. That solid pressure plate is nice. Have to adjust the clutch lever. seems it grabs at the top end, not bat though. Going to pull the clutch pad to clean again, it always pushes out the grease from the staggered hub bearings till its seated in. going to check the torque specs and put some miles on her . Dirty