Cleaning threads of spark plug holes in heads

Started by Slider1950, September 05, 2013, 06:44:09 PM

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Slider1950

Does anybody use a thread chaser as per the Harley service manual to clean the spark plug hole threads in the heads?
I use anti seize on my spark plugs and when replacing the plugs do I need to or should I clean the spark plug hole threads with a thread chaser to remove any residue on the threads?

jam65

I never had a problem with running the plug into dry dock. If you tighten the plug properly as to keep carbon build up off of the threads, it should not be a problem. A clean area of threads has been the best for me. And I have tried the anti seize in previous heads and it made a mess. Without any lube I have found that I can still twist the plug tight to the washer to torque the rest of the way.Just my own findings.

Pirsch Fire Wagon

Never on mine. I just did a 2000 883 with only 5,000 miles! (through you were supposed to ride those things) on it and the plug was obviously over tightened or corroded, or cross threaded. Thought I would have to pull the head it was so tight coming out I was leery of reinstalling the new one. After chasing it and applying anti-seize it was smooth and torqued correctly.
Tom

Jeffd

I dont't know how many times I have read about people who trashed the threads using chasers improperly

TorQuePimp

Champion or Autolite spark thread lube or versachem copper antiseize.

  Best not use the silver non copper lube with an aluminum head.

doc66

 Thin smear of copper antiseize , tighten to spec torque .
You'll never have a thread issue.

prodrag1320

Quote from: doc66 on September 06, 2013, 03:14:30 AM
Thin smear of copper antiseize , tighten to spec torque .
You'll never have a thread issue.

:agree:,no need to be chasing the threads all the time

koko3052


Y2KRKNG

Quote from: torqueinc on September 06, 2013, 01:06:55 AM
Champion or Autolite spark thread lube or versachem copper antiseize.

  Best not use the silver non copper lube with an aluminum head.

uh oh, I use the silver stuff. please explain. also after having to time sert my old Evo. I seat the plugs gingerly in my new bike, like it doesn't take much to "break" them free when removing(i'm sure they're less than factory tq value.)
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

RevFastEddy

No need to chase plug threads if they were not seized or somehow damaged..
SAEPE EXPERTUS, SEMPER FIDELIS, FRATRES AETERNI
Vietnam 67-68, Red Beach

Slider1950

Well I called Permatex today and spoke to their technical guy.
He said the only difference between the silver anti seize and the copper is that the silver protects to 1600 degrees and the copper protects to 1800 degrees. As far as not using the silver on aluminum heads he said the silver is fine, in fact on the package it does say for use on aluminum heads and spark plugs. So if the combustion chamber isn't getting over 1600 degrees the silver should be just fine.

FXDBI

http://www.swagelok.com/products/leak-detectors-lubricants-sealants/lubricants/silver-goop.aspx

Got a free tube of this   :smile:  years ago from work. Only use it on sparkplugs very lightly just a thread or 2 back from the end.
I blow the area off before plug removal and wipe it clean with a cloth I spray a little brake clean on before installing. Run the plug in by hand till it seats on the gasket torque to lowest spec. I don't use a plug more than once there cheap and a new gasket every time then.
Never had a problem. Running a Tap into used fine threads in aluminium is asking for problems and shouldn't be done by just anyone. Fresh plugs every spring, you don't want to leave them to long if they carbon up on the ends they can be a problem. Bob

Rags722

#12
Just keep in mind, the plug needs to make good contact to dissipate heat and to conduct electricity.  You do NOT need to slather a pound of anti-seize on the threads.  Just a small dab at the bottom few threads will carry up the length of the plugs.  If you really feel the need to slop it on with a paint brush, do that when you are mounting your $300 chromed aluminum foot pegs with a mongo sized stainless steel bolt.

N-gin

Always used a dab of copper.
Hint
Before tunning my plugs were always rough comming out. After the tunning I just tap them loose and screw them out by hand.
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

Slider1950

Quote from: N-gin on September 06, 2013, 12:19:44 PM
Always used a dab of copper.
Hint
Before tunning my plugs were always rough comming out. After the tunning I just tap them loose and screw them out by hand.

tunning???

Tsani

Keep in mind that a chaser is a bit different than a tap.
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ᎠᏎᏊᎢ Leonard Peltier

gabbyduffy

Duffy 216-633-8541 eastern time zone.

Eglider05

I've been using silver on every plug I've put in every Harley I've touched for as long as I can remember, never had a problem.

Rick

TorQuePimp

Quote from: gabbyduffy on September 06, 2013, 03:55:43 PM
    Why copper?

  The two products I suggested (has nothing to do with silver working or not working)have a little more graphite and a higher temp rating...one is designed specifically for plugs...no other reason just stating that I know both products work.

rbabos

Personal experience with silver shows the stuff tends to pack into the threads after the lube burns off. Repeated application makes it worse. You can feel the threads tight when removing the plugs. Copper not near as bad but in either case a dab only is best. It's best to drop torque on the plug to minimum if antiseize is used.
Ron

John/1

You can bye the copper in a spray can just mist lightly on one side