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Bent cam bearing support plate

Started by Y2KRKNG, November 21, 2013, 06:11:44 AM

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Y2KRKNG

In the middle of fixing my low comp, big cam 95" and noticed some ham-fisted bodger(me) bent the bottom of the cam support plate out a bit while installing the rear cam outer gear this allowed the rear cam to float 1/8" in and out. This was ran for aprox 1k hard miles but there is no noticable damage to anything to my untrained eye. To the experts out there that may have seen this before;
* What problem could this have caused
* also I'm working with a late 99 cam plate and wanted to know if there's something to look out for with this plate ie; possible loose rear bearing fit?
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Powerglides

Do you mean the cam support plate, or the steel bearing retaining plate that is held by 4 small screws?
Boz

speedzter

#2
Pretty sure retaining plate is what was meant. I've come across loose bearing fit before.
You will see a groove worn in the retainer. You can use some loctite, and a few centre punch marks to tighten up  the fit.

Y2KRKNG

Quote from: speedzter on November 21, 2013, 06:59:40 AM
Pretty sure retaining plate is what was meant. I've come across loose bearing fit before.
You will see a groove worn in the retainer. You can use some loctite, and a few centre punch marks to tighten up  the fit.
Yes, I did mean the bearing retainer plate. My S&S install kit comes with a new retainer plate so I'm good there. Please elaborate on the center punch thing. This of coarse is IF my rear bearing race to plate bore is loose
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

les

It's important to not tap the outer rear cam gear on to the cam.  That can push things out from the other side.  Rather, you should lube the ID of the gear and just carefully place/align it on the end of the cam.  Then draw it in using the bolt, being careful not to get it cocked and put a ridge into the ID of the gear.  I first heat the gear in the oven to relieve some of the pressure.  Then remove the bolt, clean the threads, apply red, and torque to specs.

BVHOG

Quote from: les on November 21, 2013, 08:07:25 AM
It's important to not tap the outer rear cam gear on to the cam.  That can push things out from the other side.  Rather, you should lube the ID of the gear and just carefully place/align it on the end of the cam.  Then draw it in using the bolt, being careful not to get it cocked and put a ridge into the ID of the gear.  I first heat the gear in the oven to relieve some of the pressure.  Then remove the bolt, clean the threads, apply red, and torque to specs.
Better yet a cheap stud with a washer and nut available at any parts house to use to install the gear.
If you don't have a sense of humor you probably have no sense at all.

FSG

QuoteMy S&S install kit comes with a new retainer plate so I'm good there.

It's a much better retainer anyway, it has a raised area that presses against the bearings outer race.

Y2KRKNG

should the key be on the gear while the install or slid in after using the bolt to help it draw in?
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Coff 06

Key should be in the slot before you put the gear on,if that's what you mean         Coff 06
06 FX Springer, 98",11/1,9B+4*,HPI 55/58 /5.3inj,HDSP Pro Street heads,123/118

Y2KRKNG

Quote from: Coff 06 on November 21, 2013, 01:01:22 PM
Key should be in the slot before you put the gear on,if that's what you mean         Coff 06

Yes, thanks
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Y2KRKNG

#10
***Update*** The outer bearing bores are loose! I can work both front and rear bearings in by hand.
So do I proceed with a center punch method or try to get my buddy cam plate from his 02 duece, as he went hybrid conversion?   Help!

Note: the bores have a darker polished finish on the lower half , with rear being more prevalent
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

les

Quote from: CLASSY56 on November 21, 2013, 02:46:17 PM
***Update*** The outer bearing bores are loose! I can work both front and rear bearings in by hand.
So do I proceed with a center punch method or try to get my buddy cam plate from his 02 duece, as he went hybrid conversion?   Help!

Best method is to get compromising photos of your friend and blackmail him into giving you the plate for free.  It's the preferred HTT method for obtaining cheap parts.

Admiral Akbar

Late 99 and early 2000 plates, the bearings floated in an attempt to correct the rear cam bearing failure.. I'd replace the plate.. Especially if you are using an SnS625 cam in the plate (in your sig)..

Max

Y2KRKNG

Quote from: Max Headflow on November 21, 2013, 03:11:05 PM
Late 99 and early 2000 plates, the bearings floated in an attempt to correct the rear cam bearing failure.. I'd replace the plate.. Especially if you are using an SnS625 cam in the plate (in your sig)..

Max
Ok, I'll try to get my buddy's 02. Max I'm pulling those 625s out for some 37s, as recommended here.

But what about the center punch "fix"
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Y2KRKNG

Quote from: les on November 21, 2013, 03:00:20 PM
Quote from: CLASSY56 on November 21, 2013, 02:46:17 PM

***Update*** The outer bearing bores are loose! I can work both front and rear bearings in by hand.
So do I proceed with a center punch method or try to get my buddy cam plate from his 02 duece, as he went hybrid conversion?   Help!

Best method is to get compromising photos of your friend and blackmail him into giving you the plate for free.  It's the preferred HTT method for obtaining cheap parts.
I think I can do that :teeth:
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: CLASSY56 on November 21, 2013, 03:27:25 PM
Quote from: Max Headflow on November 21, 2013, 03:11:05 PM
Late 99 and early 2000 plates, the bearings floated in an attempt to correct the rear cam bearing failure.. I'd replace the plate.. Especially if you are using an SnS625 cam in the plate (in your sig)..

Max
Ok, I'll try to get my buddy's 02. Max I'm pulling those 625s out for some 37s, as recommended here.

But what about the center punch "fix"

The punch fix is to put punch marks in a ring along the ID of the hole the bearing sits in.. You then press a new bearing back in.. IMO you'd be better of with the new plate.. If you have a 99 TC you will need to plug an oil passage in the back of the 02 plate..

Max

BUBBIE

Quote from: Max Headflow on November 21, 2013, 03:11:05 PM
Late 99 and early 2000 plates, the bearings floated in an attempt to correct the rear cam bearing failure.. I'd replace the plate.. Especially if you are using an SnS625 cam in the plate (in your sig)..

Max

Max is Right on here... Replace the cam plate is good advice...

MY early 1/2 year 2000 had the bearings fall out when I took the plate and cams out... I had all the proper tools to get the cam bearings apart and together but Falling out on the floor was Not planned... :hyst:

I was not prepared for this AS My gear cams and Build were still  "Just a Thought"... I was only in there to install that new style replacement Roller bearing... :emoGroan:

I took a sharp punch and did a few wrapps to tighten the areas up and put the new bearing in... Took the crank runout and was very pleased .001 If that...

Putting it back together this way (sloppy)  Knowing I would have at least a bike to ride Until all parts came in and were ready for my build.  :missed:

Hurried up and ordered the SnS gears and 570's along with all the needed Build parts to go to 95" heads ported and yada yada...

Delkron cam plate, Feuling oil pump, Wiesco 10.5 pistons, bored cylinders and heads ported using Manly valves and springs... Heads done  by Bob Woods ... Think he is in Oregon now.....

That Punch Dimple Tightening of the bearings held OK but when apart for the new build they were  still Very Loose...Hand removal was all that was needed.

signed....BUBBIE
***********************
Quite Often I am Right, so Forgive me when I'm WRONG !!!

speedzter

A new plate is the best option, but Loctite 640 or 620 will work .

Soft 02

In aluminum the punch and loctite method will wear out eventually. Get another plate IMO.
07 FXST 124" Vee Twin built!
66 Triumph Tiger TR6 DOA

Y2KRKNG

My buddy's bike is actually a 01 so do I still need to plug a oil passage?
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: CLASSY56 on November 21, 2013, 05:14:28 PM
My buddy's bike is actually a 01 so do I still need to plug a oil passage?

If you have a 99.. Yes..

Max

Eglider05


Y2KRKNG

#22
Quote from: Eglider05 on November 21, 2013, 06:40:13 PM
Not cheap, but I went this route and am very happy with it. Nice quality piece.

http://rrcycles.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_14_19&products_id=20&zenid=2cf60f353f306f34ac55dbaef36751aa
Boy I was happy with this sloppy POS before you guys got in my head :emoGroan: I mean 28k miles on it and it hasnt eaten itself yet. I'm pretty sure a shop would have slapped the new cams in and sent me on my way, so I am tempted to do the same. That being said, I going to get the 01 plate from my buddy today and check it out. I DO know that is has some oil pump gear to cam plate surface wear that i'll have to inspect and compare with my loosey goosey one. And then address the extra oil passage issue :emoGroan: :banghead: :emoGroan: UGGG
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1

Powerglides

The fit between bearings and cam plate can also loosen if your gear mesh is too tight.
Boz

Y2KRKNG

Quote from: Powerglides on November 22, 2013, 05:47:17 AM
The fit between bearings and cam plate can also loosen if your gear mesh is too tight.
I had pondered that, along with the dreaded excess crank runout.. :banghead:. But ignorance is bliss, so I haven't bought a dial indicator yet.
ATP(TurboHarry)95",Mik45,Branch/Mik "Flowmetric" heads,TW55,T.Header 2-1