Which way to BREAK-IN engine?

[Hendogg]

Friend of mine just had his motor rebuilt the lower end and the top
S&S recommends : not going over 2500 rpm
and dump the oil after 50 miles
Then not over 3000-3500 the next 500 then dump the oil
Then after 1000 miles are up its ok to run synthetic and ride
normally.

The service guy at the dealer said to "just take it easy"
and change the oil after 1000 miles .

Also heard that S&S are the ones doing the  Engine Remanufacture Program
FOR the MoCo so it seems to me that the S&S break in
procedure is the way to go...
What would YOU do?

[panic]

Your purpose: maximum ring seal, highest CCP.
Their purpose:zero warranty returns.

Not the same.

[02roadcling]

I would use regular oil, do a few heat cycles at idle. Take it for a normal ride on the Interstate using every exit and after a 1/2 hour start to floor it on takeoff. Get the cylinder ring pressure built up. After 50 miles start riding hard.
If you baby it for 1000 miles you will have a slug.

   cling

[ThumperDeuce]

I have Otto break it in with dino oil.  3 heat cycles and then on the dyne to do a controlled break in and tune.  Then a new filter and Red Line synthetic.

[PoorUB]

What would YOU do?

My '05 I babied and it burned a little oil. My '10 after about 20 miles I ran it up to over 100 MPH a couple times. The '10 uses very little oil and is still running strong with 60,000 miles.
IMO, once you get the first few miles on the bike, on a couple heat and cool cycles the just run it like you want, just don't abuse it.

[koko3052]

Don't lug it!
Don't make it scream!
Make it work!
A couple of quick oil changes will remove any junk & sure don't hurt!

[autoworker]

I like the S&S method.The last one I did I ran the oil for 300mi. before changing and then changed it again at 1000mi.
Synthetic or non synthetic,doesn't matter.

[No Cents]

the S&S break in procedure I have is a little different than the one you listed. Here is what mine says to do:

make sure you have oil pressure 1st....then
1) initial start up: Run engine approximately 1 minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack the throttle. Then shut off and check for any leaks.
Let the engine cool all the way down so you can touch it.
2) Start the engine again...and let it build some heat (no higher than 150*). Don't let the engine run NO LONGER than 3-4 minutes on this cycle. Then shut the engine down and check for leaks again. Make sure you vary rpm's...and NO CRACKING the throttle again.
3) repeat step #2, 3 or 4 more times. Each time you can liberally vary rpm range up to 2500 rpm's. Make sure the engine cools to room temp after each cycle before re-starting it.
4) Now your ready to ride the bike. The 1st 50 miles are the most critical for the new rings and piston break in. Keep the heat down by NOT EXCEEDING 2500 rpm's. Avoid lugging the motor, or riding in extreme hot weather or in heavy traffic. Vary the engine speed...once moving open the throttle up quickly for ring seal and then let off. Repeat this many times for the rings to expand up against the cylinders. After 50 miles...change the oil and filter.
5) The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no higher than 3500 rpm's...or above 60 mph. Avoid continuous speeds and do not lug the engine. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles.
6) For the balance of the 1st 1000 miles you can run the engine normally...no drag racing. After 1000 miles...check your tuning (I suggest having it professionally dyno tuned)  and change the oil and filter....then let 'er chew!

[IronMike113]

Ride it like you Stole it,Just kidding ya,NoCents has the right deal going.   

[strokerjlk]

Your purpose: maximum ring seal, highest CCP.
Their purpose:zero warranty returns.

Not the same.

interested in your method

[stogieluvr60]

Perhaps this may shed some light on the subject........
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[hrdtail78]

I have Otto break it in with dino oil.  3 heat cycles and then on the dyne to do a controlled break in and tune.  Then a new filter and Red Line synthetic.

Best way I know of.

[76shuvlinoff]

I have re-ringed my S&S shovel a couple times. I've broke it in easy and I have also given it a couple heat cycles easy then whacked it in 3rd gear to red line and let it engine break back down, did that 3-4 times,.... then just ride. Nothing bad happened either way. Regardless if it helps or not I break in new rings on dino oil.

[joe_lyons]

This time of the year is prob the best to break in a motor on the street because the chance of it overheating is much less for sure.. I guess I do two heat cycles.  First I start it up to check for leaks and noises.  Then go get a cup of coffee,  drink it down then start the bike up to ride into the dyno room.  Then get all my things in order to get ready to tune( sniffer,tuner,jacket,ect.). Then I start the bike up and put it into fourth gear with 10% load and cycle her up and down a bit until 220 is reached and then start going wider throttle openings(75ish) up to 3500 multiple times then 4000 then 5000.  I never get below 2k rpm hardly and never above 250°.  All the while I am looking at my afr to see what it is to make sure I'm not too lean/rich.  I will then go into 5th gear and go WOT to view afr and do this a few times.  It is cool to see live tq go up little by little and when there is no more tq gain I would say my initial break in is done.  Works for me but your results may vary

[1931jamesw]

I like the S&S method. They claim synthetic is fine even for the initial heat cycles but I prefer conventional 20W-50. I think their crate motors were shipping with Mobil 1 but they are probably shipping with their new line of oil now. Before doing any heat cycles or anything I like to pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over with the starter for a few seconds to help get the oil pressure up. After that I put the plugs in and start the heat cycles. I like at least 3 heat cycles each lasting a little longer than the previous and cooling the engine completely between heat cycles. Fans are helpful with that and then moving on with the S&S method but I prefer to do the first 50 miles and all of the heat cycles on the dyno so all of the data is read in real time and recorded. I like to use the sniffer too checking to make sure the fuel is metered correctly. I prefer a touch rich for break in for extra cooling and lubrication effect. If theres anything odd going on or if the fuel, warmup tables iac tables etc., I start making adjustments to the map and get them closer. That's just the way I prefer to do it, others will have their way.

[Merc63]

This is what I did with my 126".

Filled with conventional 20w50 penzoil.
Remove spark plugs, turn it over 8-10 seconds about 5x to get some oil moving around.
Started it up, let it build some heat and check for leaks.
Cool down,  start again and check for leaks.
Cool down, start warm up and ride.  Give it some good throttle in 2nd and 3rd, letting it engine brake to slow down.  Rode around like this for 30 mins or so.
Changed oil, new filter. 
Put 500km on it with conv 20w50 riding normal.
After 500km, put syn amsoil and new filter.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

I like the S&S method. They claim synthetic is fine even for the initial heat cycles but I prefer conventional 20W-50. I think their crate motors were shipping with Mobil 1 but they are probably shipping with their new line of oil now. Before doing any heat cycles or anything I like to pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over with the starter for a few seconds to help get the oil pressure up. After that I put the plugs in and start the heat cycles. I like at least 3 heat cycles each lasting a little longer than the previous and cooling the engine completely between heat cycles. Fans are helpful with that and then moving on with the S&S method but I prefer to do the first 50 miles and all of the heat cycles on the dyno so all of the data is read in real time and recorded. I like to use the sniffer too checking to make sure the fuel is metered correctly. I prefer a touch rich for break in for extra cooling and lubrication effect. If theres anything odd going on or if the fuel, warmup tables iac tables etc., I start making adjustments to the map and get them closer. That's just the way I prefer to do it, others will have their way.

S&S's new oil is manufactured for them by Spectro.

[Matt C]

Your purpose: maximum ring seal, highest CCP.
Their purpose:zero warranty returns.

Not the same.

Bingo!

[PanHeadRed]

What parts actually need breaking in? Sounds like all OEM's just want you to take it easy in case a fastener/retainer lets loose, after that they want the internals flushed  just in case there are contaminants.

[Matt C]

What parts actually need breaking in? Sounds like all OEM's just want you to take it easy in case a fastener/retainer lets loose, after that they want the internals flushed  just in case there are contaminants.

The rings against the fresh hone pattern on the cylinders, that's about it.

And for what its worth, modern rings seat within the first 10 minutes or so of operation and by the time
you have 50 miles on it, they're fully seated. Thats why you should open it up full throttle for a moment
at a time. More cylinder pressure = better ring seat.

I do breakins on the dyno where possible. Small bursts of full throttle here and there as well. Break it in like
you're going to ride it (within reason) don't hold it WFO for more than a few seconds. 50 miles or so, dump
the oil & filter and put fresh whatever your fav. brand is.

Ok, let the bashing begin! 

[Eglider05]

This is what I did with my 126".

Filled with conventional 20w50 penzoil.
Remove spark plugs, turn it over 8-10 seconds about 5x to get some oil moving around.
Started it up, let it build some heat and check for leaks.
Cool down,  start again and check for leaks.
Cool down, start warm up and ride.  Give it some good throttle in 2nd and 3rd, letting it engine brake to slow down.  Rode around like this for 30 mins or so.
Changed oil, new filter. 
Put 500km on it with conv 20w50 riding normal.
After 500km, put syn amsoil and new filter.

Pretty much the way I did it with the last three builds. It worked great for me.

Rick

[laserp]

Perhaps this may shed some light on the subject........
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I followed this process myself last spring, on my 117. Got about 5K on it now. Makes sense from a technical perspective. DBaisley highly recommended it to me and I trust the man. I will check my leak down this winter, if Durwood will send me his kit... 

[Templer]

The story goes like this: Dealership mech completed the 103 etc etc etc. 'Just ride it" No brake in ,No rpm limit (except rev limiter). Don't burn oil last time i checked. Shakes up paint on seat.That just started. smooth at 3k but is a little anemic feeling! noise from primary (not the clutch,noise from the rollers Up till lately,now quiet? Wearable parts ALL THEM per dealership. solution "ready for that NEW HD?" Start over or $$$$$$$$$ I AM the BROKEin person!!!!!
Templer(CA) I am still paying for the full Monty!!

[Templer]

Has anyone ever seated the rings like ya would a air compressor? Ya do not want oil in you air!! I use to rebuild them and the break in was on a stand(compressor only) with heads off in some cases but most with valves installed and unit assembled. You installa fixed orphus to the outlet and check toe cfm put out. ther is more detail but you get the drift. .Turned the unit at slow speed till ring seated and cfm matched mfgr specs.Would a V twin be different? they just have a spark plug and need fuel? Barrel Cross hatch, ring end gap, type of ring used to hone #? cant be much difert then a Ford or Chevy Can they?
Templer(CA)

[Propflux01]

....... You installa fixed orphus to the outlet and check toe (total?) cfm put out. ther is more detail but you get the drift.

Sounds to me like the fixed oriface allows a high cylinder pressure, similar to WOT at a low (not lugging) RPM to seat rings with pressure