True-Track Stabilizer or Others?

[roadboss]

  I am looking for advice on a swingarm stabilizer as there seem to be a couple of them out there for a varied price range. True-Track and progressive seem to be the best quality, but they are cheaper than the True-Track and was wondering what everyones experience with them was and if they really work well? Thanks,
Roadboss

[JohnCA58]

the Progressive worked great for me,  then added the Baker plus one pan and had to get rid of the Progressive,  and later on found Bitchin Bagger made a link that works with my oil pan and happy with that set up also, both these set up cost less than 200.   

[Eglider05]

I've put a couple of Bitchin Bagger Braces on for myself and friends and they look the most well built to these eyes.

Rick

[guydoc77]

I've put a couple of Bitchin Bagger Braces on for myself and friends and they look the most well built to these eyes.

Rick

Wouldn't want to ride my bike without it! Mine's an '08 however.
Also have the Glide Pro swingarm shaft, bushings, and front motor mount.
Jake from Glide Pro suggested unbolting the Heim joint on the Bagger Brace to really appreciate the effects of the Glide Pro kit. For learning purposes I maybe should, just to see.
But the bike tracks so well with both that I never summon enough motivation to try that.
The Bagger Brace is an extremely well made unit. All billet. It doesn't reduce ground clearance and is not noticeable while walking around the bike. And........it works. Cheaper than the other pieces mentioned too I believe.

http://bitchinbaggers.com/products/bagger-brace/

[Gderkac2]

I'm using the Progrssive on an 07 ultra, wouldn't be without it now. What a difference, a couple of friends bought them also after riding mine.   

[clawdog60]

Stab-o swingarm pivot components took care of my RK (no braces needed) Just FFT.

[Gashman]

I have had true-track on my 97 RK for 7+ years.  Made a HUGE difference in swing arm flex.   That being said, I know several people that have one or the other.  They ALL help, just depends on how much you want to pay and the style you
like.  The only part of the truetrack you see is the bolt that goes in the sidecar nut welded on the right side of frame....

Gash

[TA63]

I had a tru trac installed on my 99 road king at Sturgis last year.  It made a huge difference.  I am also running the later model swing arm.

[Propflux01]

I put this on mine:

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[Admiral Akbar]

I would stay away from stabilizers that attach to one side of the frame and go for the ones that mount to the bottom brace.. New stock bushing are as good as glidepro but cheaper..

Add.. In fact better..

Max

[garsam]

I put a progressive stabilizer on my 02 RK a couple of years ago. Works great but I noticed the heim is beginning to get a little sloppy.  Probably replace it this season.

[176]

Have had the Bagger Brace on my 08 Ultra for 3yrs. Love it. Have 3 other
Friends got them after I got mine. Very well made and engineered unit!

[N-gin]

 

[Homeward Bound]

I am looking for advice on a swingarm stabilizer as there seem to be a couple of them out there for a varied price range.

You don't say what bike you have, which would help. There's a long discussion of this here (form link) with a good list of links on the 2nd page.

Here's the straight dope to prepare you ... none of them will fix the problem on their own. To cure high speed instability requires more/something else. Anyone who tells you otherwise has rose tinted glasses on, or doesn't push their bike.

I don't know what your ride, so I cannot apply to your situation. There are too many issues to factor in to give good advice.

I have an Evo FLHR which was bought from a friend and was consider by 'the gang' to be a good handling one. It has a Progressive system install. As others advise, I would have gone with a Tru-Track.

Why? Basically it seems the Progressive system is a rip-off of the Tru-Track and to rip the Tru-Track off it only uses 3 mounting bolts rather than the 4 of others. The transmission case alloy those bolts are mounted into is really not designed for the forces being put through it and so it has to be better to have four. It's certainly cheaper and lighter looking. Beyond this, speaking personally, if the Tru-Track is the original, I'd rather pay respect to its designer and buy one.*

The Tru-Track link is a lateral stabilizer (side to side). The Alloy Art stabilizer, which mounts to the cross plate below the tranny, looks like a longitudinal stabilizer (front to back) to me. I've never read a comparison between the two, or discussion of which stabilizing is most required.

But mine does not complete fix high speed weaves and front end lightness. If this is a good handling Harley, I hate to ride a bad handling one. Jeez, it takes real genius to design a 750lb motorcycle that can't go in a straight line straight ...

What are your other options? Depends on what year/model. Making sure everything is in good service order and replacing the swing arm bushes with one of a choice of updates, replacing the front rubber mount, adding a front triangulation device like the Alloy Art Tri-link, adding cartridges to the forks or cartridge "emulators" like the Ricors and installing a proper triple tree with pinch bolts, as per Custom Cycle Engineering. I cannot say ... tuning the chassis is like tuning the engine. There is more than one way to make an omelette.

On the older FLHs, going up to the stiffer, stronger 2000-2007 swing arm with 1" axles and using something like Sta-Bo bushing adapter is probably the starting point.

* (Having said all that, I've never heard of any of these systems ripping bolts outs, so if you need to save a buck, you can ignore what I write ... I also wonder if being a big fat bastard helps hold the bike down more and so, consequently, it is the big fat Harley owning bastards who load their bikes up who say they don't wobble. I am not and so feel it moves around a lot more.)

[Homeward Bound]

Ah ... your profile says, 2002 Electra Glide so you have the later style axle and wheels.

A Sta-Bo II might be a cheap fix to start off with. Anyone else have any experience with them?

There's quite a lot of talk about True-Track versus STA-BO II versus Glidepro etc etc on the internet. STA-BO are pitching themselves as the economical fix and don't recommend fitment with a True-Track, so if you don't want to gamble much, perhaps that is where to start. They are shockingly simple in design and to fit, so much you really wonder if they can work but folks rate them. I got one as part of the 200* swing arm conversion. Ride-Str8 is another name in the game.

Interesting ... I saw this frame clamp (below) for the first time today. I have to doubt whether it does anything at all ... and wonder that they missed their real opportunity, of making a proper jacking point! Looks like a complete waste of money to me.

They also do a cheapo top mount stabilizer than clamps on *above* the engine to the starter motor mounting point. I think Alloy Art do to. (Looks like someone's had a holiday in China and is pushing out cheap, no name CNC RSD knock-offs, and I'll bet their real name is not Garry Owen ... GarryOwen, an old Irish Drinking song adopted by the 7th Cavalry). At least, unlike RSD gear, they don't have brand names and logos all over them ...

[BulldogBiker]

I've put a couple of Bitchin Bagger Braces on for myself and friends and they look the most well built to these eyes.

Rick

[crazy joe]

I replaced my Donuts/bushings on the frame were the swingarm is that made
a world of difference.

[rageglide]

I would stay away from stabilizers that attach to one side of the frame and go for the ones that mount to the bottom brace.. New stock bushing are as good as glidepro but cheaper..

Add.. In fact better..

Max

Have you ever cut an OEM bushing in half to see the cross section?   Once I did I changed my opinion about them, for the better.  Wish I had kept it or taken a picture...

[Admiral Akbar]

I would stay away from stabilizers that attach to one side of the frame and go for the ones that mount to the bottom brace.. New stock bushing are as good as glidepro but cheaper..

Add.. In fact better..

Max

Have you ever cut an OEM bushing in half to see the cross section?   Once I did I changed my opinion about them, for the better.  Wish I had kept it or taken a picture...

Go over to the drunken camel discussion and look at how much side defection I got on a GP compared to stock.. Stock did better.. I've not cross sectioned one but don't need to.. The ridges you see in a stocker are steel pieces to keep the bushing from squishing out so that it can maintain pressure between swingarm and swing arm bracket but allow movement radially..

Max

[rageglide]

Go over to the drunken camel discussion and look at how much side defection I got on a GP compared to stock.. Stock did better.. I've not cross sectioned one but don't need to.. The ridges you see in a stocker are steel pieces to keep the bushing from squishing out so that it can maintain pressure between swingarm and swing arm bracket but allow movement radially..

Max

Yeah I saw that, and honestly I came to the exact same conclusion about the GP.  I kept hearing how awesome it was, and I was not buyin it, dug into the stock bushing and found what I suspected, that it's basically steel and more steel with thin layers of rubber in between.  A LOT closer to solid than the GP.  Plus the GP delaminates over time.

[Homeward Bound]

Anyone with old OEM donuts (not Police standard issue ones) or Glide Pros interested in cutting them apart and posting a picture?

For relating stuff for pre-2002s, see also, Howard @ MotorcycleMetal.com.

[elmosac]

Stab-o swingarm pivot components took care of my RK (no braces needed) Just FFT.

I put the Sta-bo bushings on my 07 FLHR and haven't had any wobbles since.  I ride pretty aggressively and don't feel a need for anything else.  They are pretty inexpensive and real easy to install.  This might be a good starting point.

Elmo

[RKC03]

the Progressive worked great for me,  then added the Baker plus one pan and had to get rid of the Progressive,  and later on found Bitchin Bagger made a link that works with my oil pan and happy with that set up also, both these set up cost less than 200.   

Lists for more than $200 on their website......

[JohnCA58]

the Progressive worked great for me,  then added the Baker plus one pan and had to get rid of the Progressive,  and later on found Bitchin Bagger made a link that works with my oil pan and happy with that set up also, both these set up cost less than 200.   

That because I could use the Brace made to work with the Baker plus one pan.   


Lists for more than $200 on their website......

[truck]

Anyone with old OEM donuts (not Police standard issue ones) or Glide Pros interested in cutting them apart and posting a picture?

For relating stuff for pre-2002s, see also, Howard @ MotorcycleMetal.com.

That picture of the cracked swing arm sure looks familiar to me, wait that's my swing arm!