Power Vision Auto Tune Basic

[76shuvlinoff]

Excuse me if this has been already beaten to death, I've only recently started delving into the TC world.

2012 103 TBW Ultra.  I installed Jackpot 2/1/2 Andrews 48s, bigger intake, and Rush touring mufflers. I have a canned map from Fuelmoto. Bike runs pretty darn good, my leg does not burn up and the sh*tty throttle lag is gone. 

I've been reading up on the PV Auto Tune Basic feature and watched the Youtube vid.  To those that have done this do you have any recommendations? Just putt? Ride aggressively?  How has it worked out for you?

Thanks!
Mark

[WI Bob]

Mark,

I try to populate as many cells as possible in a 20 minute AT session. This means all types of driving while in AT mode.

I find high gear freeway to work well to cover the cruise areas. Something like get in high gear, start at 2500 partial throttle and bump the cruise up one click about every 15 seconds. This works well if there are some slight hills.

I have a secondary road I use for break ins because it is full of 20 MPH curves and hills where I accel and decel constantly. This also covers a bunch of cells in the AT mode.

Ripping on it also works to catch those cells with a more open throttle position.

Have fun, it works.

Bob

[FBobPilot]

I have the AT Pro now but with the Basic I believe the AFR is set at 14.6 across the board so not a great AFR for high rpms. Recommend riding somewhat normally varying the rpms but personally I would not go above about 4500 rpms and as always do not lug the engine chasing hard to get cells. After each session I go to my computer and look at the VE chart and notice how much they have changed. Once you get the VEs to a point they are not changing very much(less than about 3%) you are about as good as you are going to get. You still may have to manually play with the AFR table and Decel Enleanment to get rid of decel pop if you have that.

[76shuvlinoff]

thanks guys

[Karl H.]

Autotune Basic sets the AFR to 14,6 and the CLB to 700mV what leads to an AFR of about 14,2. The timing is retarded by 4°. So it should be save for high load and rpm.

Karl

[aswracing]

If at all possible, mount your PV where you can see it. This is one of the huge advantages of the PV, you can actually monitor the process and see which cells you've hit and which you still need to visit:



You can buy a perfectly suitable mount on Amazon for less than ten bucks.

Try to turn as many cells red as you can. They'll turn light green and then orange before they turn red (on the 7th hit by default). The above is pretty extreme, you won't hit that many cells. I did that on the dyno.

The bike will run poorly during autotune, this is normal.

When you shut down the motor, use the run/stop switch so the PV remains powered. Exit the screen shown above and touch "Export Learned Values". That's what creates the new tune. Then disable autotune mode and go load up that new map as normal (Load tune/custom tunes ...). The bike will run better. Repeat as needed/desired.

Narrow band doesn't work too badly. Many people have successfully tuned their bikes with narrow band mode. Wide band works incredibly well however.

We have a wideband kit dedicated to our dyno. When someone brings us a PV equipped bike, we install the wideband kit, do the tuning, and then remove the wideband kit and put the stock sensors back in. Works great. Saves the customer a lot of money too because the process is so easy with a PV that we charge a lot less than we do with other tuners.

[Fat daddy]

If you are in the midst of doing a basic auto tune and need to stop for some reason can you shut the bike down and pick the tune back up where you left off or do you need to start all over?

[76shuvlinoff]

Fat daddy,
good question.

aswracing.
Thanks a ton for the info! I received mounting kits with the PV.

  All,
I appreciate any and all insights. I am at pre-Tenderfoot level on this injection stuff, hell I only discovered CV carbs 3-4 years ago.

I will be kinda laid up for a week or so, I won't be out and about playing with the tuner for a while so I have time to do some reading.


Mark

[Karl H.]

If you are in the midst of doing a basic auto tune and need to stop for some reason can you shut the bike down and pick the tune back up where you left off or do you need to start all over?

When you shut down and start the engine again the autotune process (data sampling) will continue. When you want to end the autotune mode the PV has to be set up accordingly. Otherwise the engine will remain in autotune mode with AFR 14,2 and  4° ignition retard in all cells.

Karl

[aswracing]

If you are in the midst of doing a basic auto tune and need to stop for some reason can you shut the bike down and pick the tune back up where you left off or do you need to start all over?

Kinda.

If you shut off the motor with the run/stop switch, nothing is lost. The PV remains powered up and on the logging screen. You can then exit the logging screen and export your learned tune. Or you can start it back up and continue logging, however, you'll go through the warm-up enrichment delay until it actually starts logging. You can turn that delay off by the way, using WinPV. There's a table for it and you just fill it with zeroes.

However, if you shut off the key, you might lose some of your logging data. The WinPV periodically autosaves it's logged data. While you're logging, you'll occasionally see the logging screen go dim for a second and it says "Saving ..." on it. So you can turn the key back on and go back into the logging screen and start the bike and keep right on logging, however, anything you've logged between the last autosave and turning off the key will be lost. Or in other words, cycling the power forces you to back up a bit in your logging process.

I'm not aware of how to force an autosave. When I want to shut the key off without losing anything, I do an "Export Learned" before I turn off the key, and then do a whole new autotune session next time, using the autotune result as my start point. Maybe there's an easier way though.

[Karl H.]

The book says:

The values learned during the AutoTune process will automatically save:
• Every five minutes
• When the vehicle comes to a stop during a drive cycle

Whenever you stop the engine using the run switch and keep the ignition switch on for a while the data is saved.

Karl

[UltraNutZ]

the data is saved to the device, not the ECM

[WideWildGlide]

I know Auto tune pro adds but dose it subtract aswell?

[rbabos]

Just remember, autotune basic is just that, BASIC. There's quite a difference between where it was tuned in defaults and actual or desired clb/lambda values. For me, log tuner will refine the tune to a more custom fashion, since all I have to use are the onboard narrow bands.
Ron

[aswracing]

We've found it does a pretty reasonable job for people through the meat of the riding range. Bottom line, someone can buy a performance package from us, we send them a starting point Powervision tune, and they can dial it in pretty decently using Autotune Basic, without ever visiting a dyno. And the PV makes it a dirt simple process, that's it's big advantage over the other flash tuners. We have lots and lots of customers who've done it successfully.

The wideband kit works even better, though, no argument there, and it works well over the entire range of rpm and load. It's a bit pricey, but then again, so is a full dyno tune.

[UltraNutZ]

aswracing...  have you guys seen any issues or had any reported to you with the PV and it interfering with handlebar controls but ONLY in gauge mode?  I suspect inferior cable design but unproven at this point.  I've contacted Scott @ Dynojet but no response yet.  It also only happens with aftermarket handlebar control modules such as hawg-wired, biketronics, PAC, etc..  moving cables around resolves nothing. Again, ONLY happens in gauge mode. 

[aswracing]

No, never had a customer report that to me at all.

[76shuvlinoff]

Life being life I am just now getting back to this.

Attached is a crappy pic of the screen after my 1st auto tune basic run. Yeah I cut about 1/2 of the last column off.    This was approx a 45 minute run through the country with hills and some twists with 15-20 miles of highway ducking holiday traffic and state patrols.

Besides better picture taking what are my goals here?

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[Snuff™]

Mark, thanks for updating this thread.  Purchased my PV the other week, haven't installed it yet until I change the pipes and mufflers.  The past couple of days  have been too good to work on a bike.

[Snuff™]

Besides better picture taking what are my goals here?

I think it's like a video game.  Get all the squares red and you win!

[76shuvlinoff]

Yeah I went back and re-read the responses already posted (I had a bit too much downtime from this bike.) I will take those approaches suggested, just glad I bookmarked the thread.

[aswracing]

Looks good to me.

The cells you're mainly missing, in the upper right and lower left, are really hard to hit on a street ride. Almost gotta have a dyno that can load it down for those upper right ones. On the lower left, you gotta build a lot of rpm and then back the throttle down just the right amount.

But the cells you're hitting are the meat of the riding range and the bike should run much better through there once you export the learned values, exit autotune, and load up the resultant map in the standard manner, which of course will put your timing and fueling back to where they should be.

[76shuvlinoff]

  thanks
Too much going on today so I took a short spin but didn't get much time after I downloaded that "tune" to get the feel of it. I know my 900lb gorilla isn't going to rear up and paw at the sky.   

Mark

[76shuvlinoff]

After this morning's run I just gotta add I'm liking it. The canned map I got with the PV was lots gooder than stock but this is better. I think the 900 lb gorilla even sounds better. Too bad I have a different set of baffles already on order.

Now if I can keep my fingers out of it we should be all good.   

Thanks for all the help. 

  Mark

[joe_lyons]

If you want you can do a comparison  of the map before and the current one you are using and then look at the delta between them and smooth out the areas you didn't hit by following the trends and extending them up and down.  If you want I can take some snap shots if you wish.