LiquiMoly 10w-60 synthoil racetech gt1 100% Synthetic SL,CF,A3,B4 $8.52/qt

[MichaelDee]

 

[Mountainman streetbob]

Well here is a report on what the oil looks like after 6,089 miles

[attach=0]

Well It appears that 6000 miles is about as far as you want to push this oil.

It also appears my higher numbers for Aluminum, Chrome Iron and Silicon persist so I will be flushing out every crevice of the crankcase.

I am happy to see the oil lasted as well as it did.

[Mountainman streetbob]

[attach=1]

Trying to save it as full text not expandable but it is not working, suggestions?

[rbabos]

Iron and copper levels not good at all. To me that's showing cyl wear and rod thrust washers as the main area of concern. What oil filter are you using and what air filter? 6k on the oil should not kill the additive package to the point wear will increase to that level.
Ron

[koko3052]

Iron and copper levels not good at all. To me that's showing cyl wear and rod thrust washers as the main area of concern. What oil filter are you using and what air filter? 6k on the oil should not kill the additive package to the point wear will increase to that level.
Ron

Agree totally....only because I tested oil in a 3406 cat to over 6 times the recommended change interval & had no abnormal wear.

[Mountainman streetbob]

This motor was abnormally tight to begin with, did not loosen up until around 6k-7k miles.
The first sample numbers were high as well.
I need to do a very thorough flush including the sump.
A/C is a Boyeson and the Oil Filter is one of the the cleanable kinds, I believe it's in my signature, it's one of the filters we had the mile long discussion on this fall.
This is only the motors 2nd oil change after the factory oil. The first oil on the test was harley straight 50wt dyno. Ran well but was noisy on hot summer days.

[rbabos]

This motor was abnormally tight to begin with, did not loosen up until around 6k-7k miles.
The first sample numbers were high as well.
I need to do a very thorough flush including the sump.
A/C is a Boyeson and the Oil Filter is one of the the cleanable kinds, I believe it's in my signature, it's one of the filters we had the mile long discussion on this fall.
This is only the motors 2nd oil change after the factory oil. The first oil on the test was harley straight 50wt dyno. Ran well but was noisy on hot summer days.

How is a roller bearing engine tight from the factory? Doubt the factory churns out minimum tolerance engines in the cyls either. Too risky.  What was the impression you got that it was tight?
Cleanable filter you say?? No secret I have no use for them, so how about the same test with an HD filter for comparison. Here's your chance to shut me up once and for all.
Ron

[Mountainman streetbob]

This motor was abnormally tight to begin with, did not loosen up until around 6k-7k miles.
The first sample numbers were high as well.
I need to do a very thorough flush including the sump.
A/C is a Boyeson and the Oil Filter is one of the the cleanable kinds, I believe it's in my signature, it's one of the filters we had the mile long discussion on this fall.
This is only the motors 2nd oil change after the factory oil. The first oil on the test was harley straight 50wt dyno. Ran well but was noisy on hot summer days.

How is a roller bearing engine tight from the factory? Doubt the factory churns out minimum tolerance engines in the cyls either. Too risky.  What was the impression you got that it was tight?
Cleanable filter you say?? No secret I have no use for them, so how about the same test with an HD filter for comparison. Here's your chance to shut me up once and for all.
Ron

I love it when you stir the pot Ron!

tight = abnormally high compression, excellent ring seat pressure.

If you don't understand that every motor made  can be "loose" or "tight" pending on the min and max of acceptable tolerances, maybe we need to start another thread! LOL

BTW What would a oil filter have to do with high chromium, copper etc levels? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!

This motor is wearing in late, only has 2 oil changes on her and therefore shows higher levels of wearable metals... This is to be expected. I want my contamination to be suspended in the oil and drained with the oil. unfortunately because it is a twin cam Harley we always have an extra 1/2-1 quart of old oil left in the motor unless we do a sump drain and a flush of the main box. Next change will come sooner and be a thorough oil change this time. Might even dump the oil hot this time.

Current dyno numbers are abnormally high as well.
Shooting for 120/100 sae 6th gear when we get back to the shop with her. I have a dynojet 250 and a eddy current dyno I can check them against each other in the same morning...
Like everyone says, 255's are a school bus cam...

[ndmp40]

I generally use Rotella, change at 5000.  Had it checked once a few years back, came out great with lots of life left.
I don't understand the fascination with oil in these forums.

[BUBBIE]

I'm going to change out the First 10w60 oil soon at 5,000 miles (one more ride)
Then put in a full clean change of the 10w60. This will get me into the HOT days of spring and early summer.... Watching the Color and Pressure, I WILL go 6,000 then have the oil Checked again by Blackstone...

REMEMBER, I got a very good report off my 103" motor (having 30,000 mi. on it) as compared to all 103" motors.... Not Bragging here, Just what they said.

I don't believe it is the Lack of the Quality Lube (10w60 moly) Brice's motor has used... It is in the Wearing of his motor parts like he stated..

IF after This future change (next ride out n back) and then going 6,000 miles on new 10w60 moly oil and KnN filter, THEN if My Next report is Not up to the same Good Standards as it was at 4000 miles (on page 11), I Will gladly change back to the 20/50 Redline.

signed....BUBBIE

[06roadglide]

Draining the sump only drains the flywheel cavity. It doesn't drain the cam chest  completely. The cam chest could still have about an inch of oil in it.

I have 2 cases apart and noticed that. Unless I missed something. I look again tonight now that I'm thinking about it.

[rbabos]

This motor was abnormally tight to begin with, did not loosen up until around 6k-7k miles.
The first sample numbers were high as well.
I need to do a very thorough flush including the sump.
A/C is a Boyeson and the Oil Filter is one of the the cleanable kinds, I believe it's in my signature, it's one of the filters we had the mile long discussion on this fall.
This is only the motors 2nd oil change after the factory oil. The first oil on the test was harley straight 50wt dyno. Ran well but was noisy on hot summer days.

How is a roller bearing engine tight from the factory? Doubt the factory churns out minimum tolerance engines in the cyls either. Too risky.  What was the impression you got that it was tight?
Cleanable filter you say?? No secret I have no use for them, so how about the same test with an HD filter for comparison. Here's your chance to shut me up once and for all.
Ron

I love it when you stir the pot Ron!

tight = abnormally high compression, excellent ring seat pressure.

If you don't understand that every motor made  can be "loose" or "tight" pending on the min and max of acceptable tolerances, maybe we need to start another thread! LOL

BTW What would a oil filter have to do with high chromium, copper etc levels? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!

This motor is wearing in late, only has 2 oil changes on her and therefore shows higher levels of wearable metals... This is to be expected. I want my contamination to be suspended in the oil and drained with the oil. unfortunately because it is a twin cam Harley we always have an extra 1/2-1 quart of old oil left in the motor unless we do a sump drain and a flush of the main box. Next change will come sooner and be a thorough oil change this time. Might even dump the oil hot this time.

Current dyno numbers are abnormally high as well.
Shooting for 120/100 sae 6th gear when we get back to the shop with her. I have a dynojet 250 and a eddy current dyno I can check them against each other in the same morning...
Like everyone says, 255's are a school bus cam...

I understand minimum and limit built engines. Back in the day I helped build airboat engines. All garbage parts that were no longer airworthy and at max spec were used on them.  The high iron content within the oil most likely is responsible for the chromium and copper levels being high. Residual from breakin could be skewing you results. Repeat the test as you planned because it sounds like a lot of things like residual oil worked against you for a good test result.
Ron
Ron

[MichaelDee]

Thanks for oil info Mountain Streetbob... and you saved  some $ on shipping (LOL).  All the review info you and Bubbie posted on this thread has helped me to decide to run this oil over the summer.  Central MS gets just as hot and miserable as anyplace.  BTW: How do you like Boyesen intake/filter set-up?  Have one on my '09 Ultra and like it.  Seat of Pants dyno felt great improvement over stock.

[BUBBIE]

Like I said in another post Yesterday: As soon as I get 5,000 miles I'm dropping oil and filter.

That has come today @5,022 miles. (Blackstone said to go 6,000 and take a sample)

After my ride, I drained the oil/filter and dropped the engine sump plug. Not much came out of it.
Changed the primary out also. I use MTL by Redline there.

The 10w60 moly oil looked about the same color as the new oil I put in... Not too dark at all.  Would have gone longer like Blackstone said BUT this gives me a Full change (#2) and now ready to do the Full 6,000 miles and then do another sample..

I do put on a lot of miles. Next 6,000 miles will not take long to get under my belt.  SMILE

Changed the primary out also.  I use MTL by Redline in there.

New rear tire on, front came in today... That said,  I'm Ready to ride.

I will share the next report from Blackstone with you Also.........     SO Stay Tuned.

signed....BUBBIE

This IS a Reply to my post #334

[kristian]

18486 Members cant be wrong, this is amazing!!!

[04 SE Deuce]

Will the door ever blow shut on this long winded thread...oh wait test results are finally getting posted...only to find out it's not magic juice.   -Rick

[kd]

Will the door ever blow shut on this long winded thread...oh wait test results are finally getting posted...only to find out it's not magic juice.   -Rick

At least we're finally getting some test results. Let's follow through instead of just calling Earl in to shut it down for no real reason.    It may not be such a great choice in the end but if that's the case then the testing should hopefully show why. Thanks to those that are taking the time to experiment and test this oil. 

[04 SE Deuce]

Test results are definitely way better than looks like honey, taste like rum and cures hemorrhoids on your bum.     -Rick

[Hossamania]

Test results are definitely way better than looks like honey, taste like rum and cures hemorrhoids on your bum.     -Rick

Somehow every discussion comes back to hemorrhoids and bums.

[clawdog60]

Ouch,sounds like a full season on this stuff is a nono. Unless that engine is on it's last legs anyway.

[No Cents]

Ouch,sounds like a full season on this stuff is a nono. Unless that engine is on it's last legs anyway.

do you run your bike the full riding season without changing your oil?   
I bet I change my oil 6- 8 times during a normal season...maybe more if I'm lucky enough to go on some long trips.

Ray

[Hossamania]

Ouch,sounds like a full season on this stuff is a nono. Unless that engine is on it's last legs anyway.

do you run your bike the full riding season without changing your oil?   
I bet I change my oil 6- 8 times during a normal season...maybe more if I'm lucky enough to go on some long trips.

Ray

I have a friend that puts on 800 to 1200 miles a year. I change his oil every Spring.
So yeah, one whole season on an oil change.   

[clawdog60]

Ouch,sounds like a full season on this stuff is a nono. Unless that engine is on it's last legs anyway.

do you run your bike the full riding season without changing your oil?   
I bet I change my oil 6- 8 times during a normal season...maybe more if I'm lucky enough to go on some long trips.

Ray

In the past no, but I considered trying a full season on the moly10/60 with filter maintenance and oil tests. Just for information.

[koko3052]

I generally use Rotella, change at 5000.  Had it checked once a few years back, came out great with lots of life left.
I don't understand the fascination with oil in these forums.

It's so we can save a buck to spend on "cam of the month".

[r0de_runr]

2 five liter jugs of Moly 10w60 is about $90 delivered.  I can get 3 oil changes out of that easy.  Thats $30 each for just the oil, which I think is a bargain for this grade of synthetic.  At 5000 miles per change, and about 10K miles a year, I believe I'm being a good shopper and good to my CVO motor.

I'm not cheap, but Redline 20W60 was like $17 a qt.  My bike really needs the 60 wt part, and it never complains on cold startup about the 10W.