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Seattledyna....

Started by Big Dan, March 12, 2009, 06:34:59 AM

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Big Dan

I need to borrow some more of your brains. You didn't think I was actually going to leave you alone, did you? Anyways, everything is finally done being sprayed. Striping is done, final clear is on, and I've got most of it finish sanded; so, I picked up the buffer and played a little. Seems like it's going to be pretty good for a rookie. However, I've never buffed anything before in my life, and I'm a little worried. I'll tell ya what I got, and then start with the questions.... and please, assume I'm a complete moron and will mess this up if at all possible.

What I've got:

Variable speed buffer, running around 600 rpm.
Meguiar's Diamond Cut 2.0 polishing compound, per your recommendation, and a Meguiar's foam pad (red).
Meguiar's Swirl remover #2, and a Meguiar's foam pad (yellow).
Meguiar's Liquid Gold wax (the one you use).

Questions:

Compound on the piece, or on the pad?
How much compound?
Lay the pad flat on the piece, or angle it and use the leading edge?
How fast should I move the buffer over the piece? Keep it moving pretty quick, or very slowly?
Keep going until all the compound is gone, or stop at a light haze and wipe it off, repeating if necessary?
When am I done with the polishing compound? As soon as all the sand marks seem to be gone, or go a little extra to be sure?
Do I pretty much follow the same procedures with the swirl remover?
Any other tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated.

Sorry for all the questions, but like I said... I really don't want to tank this job now. And as always, thank you very much for all your help.



Never follow the Hippo into the water.

seattledyna

no problem Dan,

you have the right materials, pick up some detail spray though.

the red and yellow foam pad is what I use also, after careful wet sanding with 1500 (hint, dont sand into tight places where the buffer cant reach) apply compound generously to the surface, spray a little detailer on the pad to "activate it" the trick is to not let the surface get to hot, keep moving, polishing "into" the sanded areas working a six to eight inch area at a time till it looks sand scratch free, every once in awhile spray some detailer on the surface to help lubricate the pad and keep the heat down, for the most part keep the pad "reasonably" flat using the rounded edge to work out tough areas, but make sure you have plenty of compound down when buffing with the edge.
Using a microfiber towel spray the part with detailer and inspect, work out any scratches you still see, you might have to do this a couple times.
  Using the "yellow" pad and 2.0 compound go over it again if needed, you probably wont even need swirl remover at all after that...cuz there wont be any ;)

  wash the pads with soap and water in the sink when they get to loaded with compound, they will last a long time if you take care of them.

good luck!! and check back in with us with results

seattledyna

Dan, when yer done it should look like this  :wink:,


Jeffd

Quote from: seattledyna on March 12, 2009, 06:09:51 PM
Dan, when yer done it should look like this  :wink:,



Not many put a mural of thier open garage door on thier tank LOL

seattledyna

how 'bout a nature scene instead :teeth:  this was before polishing


04fatty

My god man, that's sick! What would you charge for a solid color on fatboy tins that shines like that?

TwistedSister

Mike. . . .get  these  fella's to  really  drool. . . .show  'em pics  of  the bike ya  got  for  sale. . . it's  a  beauty!!!!!
Drinking doesn't cause hangovers... waking up  does...
TS
SW Arkisaw USN RET

seattledyna

Quote from: 04fatty on March 12, 2009, 06:52:21 PM
My god man, that's sick! What would you charge for a solid color on fatboy tins that shines like that?

fatty, here is a Fatboy I just finished, Sumax fenders added a nice touch!





One color stock HD parts (with a shine like that) would be around $700 plus shipping

StrokerDave

March 12, 2009, 08:00:16 PM #8 Last Edit: March 14, 2009, 08:03:22 PM by StrokerDave
Hey I know that black tank! :teeth:

In fact I picked it, a fairing and a couple of saddlebags up today!

Pics to follow when they're installed.

seattledyna

this is how black is spose' to look :wink:


Big Dan

Now you're just teasin' me. No way mine will look like that. The one piece I buffed on does look pretty good though. There are flaws, but they're small, and most people may never see 'em (I hope). I think she's gonna look pretty good overall.

Let me ask you this. I'm seeing some marks, but don't know if they're swirl marks (See, I really am clueless). I sanded everything in one direction, and I went 2000 because I was okay with more sanding if it meant less buffing. Anyways.... assuming I sanded north-south, I'm seeing little marks that take off in every direction except north-south. The marks aren't "swirls" so to speak... they're straight, very short (1/4", maybe 3/8"), and very faint.

Are these swirl marks?
Do I need to keep going with the red pad?
Change to the yellow pad?
Try the swirl remover?
Have I done something wrong?

As always, thanks for the help.

Never follow the Hippo into the water.

seattledyna

probably left over sand scratches, more compound with the red pad if needed, then yellow. keep checking with a wipe of detailer and the towel, you should be fine, if the clear has been curing for a couple weeks it gets pretty hard and is tougher to polish, I try and polish after one day of curing, but no longer than three or four days for best results....good luck!

Big Dan

Man, you ain't woofin' when you say that clear gets hard when it's a couple weeks old. My back is killin' me! On the bright side, everything is sanded, and the gas tank and front fender are buffed and done. I'm very happy with the results thus far. They look like you're looking into a bucket of orange paint. I'm sure some smartass somewhere will pick it to shreds, but for my first effort, I'm stoked!
Never follow the Hippo into the water.

truck

That's great to hear Dan.  :up:
Listen to the jingle the rumble and the roar.

seattledyna

good deal dan :up:

dont let the non painter critics get to ya, you get the great satisfaction of doing that big job all yerself...and be proud of it!!

Big Dan

Inner fairings are the devil.


That is all.
Never follow the Hippo into the water.

the Grump

That IS Impressive!!!  :up:

seattledyna

those inner fairings are a pain, lots of little nooks and crannys to clean and prep, here is gloss black one I just did yesterday,


04fatty

Seattle, It may be a little while but when I can't take my pinstripes any more I'll contact you and if you're interested, you'll paint my bike.

seattledyna

thank you!! be happy to do that for you :up:

Dennis The Menace

Mike, are those your RG parts there, or someone else's?

seattledyna

someone else's dennis, they are for an 03RG, maybe this next winter I will do mine...still thinking of a cool unique design :teeth:

Big Dan

I think I can live with this....





Never follow the Hippo into the water.

04fatty

Hey Dan, If you did that I'd be damn proud of it. Looks great.

cig

That'd look REAL good with a new chrome front end.  :hyst:
cig 
Alton, Illinois

Big Dan

Never follow the Hippo into the water.

truck

Buelah is going to look like a $1000.00 prostitute and I mean that in a good way.
A little confusion here, how did the fairing start out tan colored with pinstripping and end up orange?
Listen to the jingle the rumble and the roar.

seattledyna

Look at that shine!!!!! :up:

Big Dan

Truck,
Somethin' goofy with my camera. That whole first pic looks kinda black and white, and it wasn't on purpose. <shrug>

Mike,
Next question for you: I'm working on my Tourpak lid, and having a devil of a time. I just can't seem to get the sand scratches out of it. My red pad was loaded up with compound pretty good, so I cleaned it and it got better, but still they don't wanna come out. More speed on the buffer perhaps? More compound? Less compound? Try a wool pad? (I have one here, brand new in the package). This thing is straight-up kickin' my ass.
Never follow the Hippo into the water.

TwistedSister

Dan. . . .it  is beautius !!!!!   Hate  I  won't  get  to  see  it , you ~n~Patti  til  June   :emsad:

cig. . . .sooooooo. . . I  see  your  new  J O B   is   :potstir:   LMAO!!!!!!

YES  chrome  IS the   >:D
Drinking doesn't cause hangovers... waking up  does...
TS
SW Arkisaw USN RET

seattledyna

Dan, if yer up for it, sometimes an easier way after the clear has cured to long is to re-coat with another fresh coat of clear, I do that all the time, its better than beatin' yourself up trying to ploish out sand scratches.

truck

I think they call that sepia, sorry, I didn't notice anything other than the tan fairing. :embarrassed:
Listen to the jingle the rumble and the roar.

StrokerDave

Got the black paint set on that SeattleDyna did for me.
Better pics tomarrow when I get it out in the sun.


04fatty

That looks GOOD! Can't wait to see it in the sun. Is that Harley vivid black paint? Seattle, what kind of paint do you use and typically how many coats of clear do you put on?

04fatty

Should have asked also, do you do any airbrushing like ghost flames and is the sky the limit as far as design goes? You can see the wheels turning here (haha).

Dennis The Menace

Dan, you did a great job!  As you mentioned earlier, if there are any imperfections, its probably only you that know about them. 

menace

Big Dan

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I can live with how it's turning out.

Mike, next question for you: Have ya got a source for the tool to crimp the rivets with on reassembly? Last time around I used  4-40  stainless nuts & bolts. It worked okay, but some of the spots are troublesome. The bolt heads, small as they are, still interfere in some spots. The rivets are only 8 cents apiece at Chicago H-D, so I ordered a hundred with the rest of my stuff. The guy that did my striping offered me the use of his tool, which I'll probably end up doing. His is a seperate little anvil and crimper that you smack with a hammer. The H-D tool looks like a vice grips and is really slick and easy to use, but costs about 200 bucks, and I just can't afford that. So... ya got a trick up your sleeve?
Never follow the Hippo into the water.

seattledyna

Dan, I dont have one of the official crimper tools, so I avoid dealing with those rivets whenever I can, I just do a nice tight masking around the latches etc., being an old aircraft sheet metal guy I do still have my rivet gun and bucking bars to use if I have to change a hinge or latch. I suggest borrowing the proper tool :wink:

fatty, I only use PPG high solid clears, and of course Vivid Black in the PPG basecoat formula, I always do at least two coats of clear, that is let a coat cure, wet sand, apply another coat wet sand then polish, its the only way to get a perfect smooth finish. On the custom stuff I reclear between each color effect...yes you have many options for a design :teeth:!


Dave...NICE, that didnt take ya long to get back together 

softailwins

Nice job Mike,now stay away from those gravel trucks Dave...... :teeth:

crazy joe

I have to say it again Big Dan     love that Orange and Black combo.

Big Dan

Thanks Joe. I'm really pumped about gettin' her back together.
Never follow the Hippo into the water.