Electrical gremlin. Yargh!

[Big Dan]

I installed my inner fairing today, just so I could see something pretty on the bike and be able to listen to the stereo. Now I have an electrical gremlin. Lights work, except for the gauge lights (the one in the speedometer works, but no others). No gauges work. No stereo. No horn. No starter.

The right blinker indicator is lit, and lit constant. If I hit the left blinker button, the hazards come on. I'm assuming I have a short in the right blinker switch, but don't know why. Everything was functioning when I pulled the inner fairing, and I waited as long as I could to remove it so I could listen to the stereo while working out there.

I know it's a really long shot, but I'm hoping one of you guys has had a real similar issue and can point me in the right direction. Otherwise, it's test light and pull my hair out time. Bleh.

[Burch]

I ride a RK, so no fairing...never had this problem.

But what I can tell you is when ya do "something", and it goes wrong..just un-do it and look for the problem.

Sounds like ya pinched a wire, or lost a ground somewhere.

Anyhow, take the inner off, and start over....

Burch

[specialx1]

friend put lighted turn signal mirrors on and same thing with right turn signal lite being on steady and hit left signal button flashers came on, found a pinched wire when right switch control was put back on, i,d check the right control switch first before i pulled inner fairing again
JMHO
Specialx1

[TweekmyTwin]

you might of pull the ground wire thats uses a connector to the top of the tree on the right side.
Jim

[HenryJ]

I find that when lights do funky things it is usually a bad ground.

[thunderalley3]

Dan

I am not sure what you unplugged, unhooked to take the inner fairing off, but is there a chance that you have a couple of the harness plugs reversed,such as left hbar switches and r hbar switches, there are more than one that will plug into each other, but will cause improper operation when they are, check the wire colors if you unplugged them, if you did not unplug the harness it sure sounds like a pinched wire, blown fuse issue, also if you did have a plug reversed check the fuses as well, as it will blow them also.

Happy Hunting

[HroadhogD1]

    Sorry, don't have a clue, but I just wanted to say good luck finding it.

[Princess Butt]

Did you have the hand controls off? I would look there first.

Then, I would look for the ground wire. Electricity looks for the easiest path to ground. When the ground wire is missing or broken, then it goes thru light filaments and electronics, and it makes your bike look like Satan is running around inside the wires. You know, like the exorcist, and you expect the forks to start spinning around like that little kid's head.

BnEUC

[x52gnr]

Did you have the hand controls off? I would look there first.

Then, I would look for the ground wire. Electricity looks for the easiest path to ground. When the ground wire is missing or broken, then it goes thru light filaments and electronics, and it makes your bike look like Satan is running around inside the wires. You know, like the exorcist, and you expect the forks to start spinning around like that little kid's head.

BnEUC

I agree, if you ran wires through bars etc first make sure you put the pins back in the same loc in each connector, next un-plug and re plug every connector back in, you should get an audible click when you have a positive lock together...next check the ground at the steering neck as stated earlier

[ULTRADOG]

check you're grounds the one one the left side was loose on mine and if i remember right i had light issues and intermediate radio on and off issues  or like said make sure all the plugs are together all the way and in the right order    i hate gremlins especially sparky gremlins

[xglide]

I installed new handlebars and ran the wires internally (06 street glide) --- when reconnected the battery all that lit up was the taillights and the signals flashed 6 times --- using 'wiggle' check I found out that one of the wires in the ignition switch had pulled out of the connector ---  Check the wires in that connector also --
paul

[smittyon66]

I gotta agree with some of the others. It sounds like a bad ground causing a back feed. Check the simple stuff first. Run a temp ground wire.

[Deye76]

Did you add/change something that would require a load equalizer?

[BKACHE]

I had the same thing. Mine was not a ground (else the light would not work) but the plastic cover on the switch was cracked.
All I needed was the plastic cover that goes around the star actutator. Of course I bought the $26 switch vs the $5 switch covers.
 
The star actuator is spring loaded and was always on. Sounds like what you have??  

[Big Dan]

No changes that would require a load equalizer. Bars have been wired internally for a long time, with no splices, and never a problem. I opened the left switch housing, but only to remove the throttle and idle cables. Hand controls are plugged in correctly for sure (high beam switch does what it's supposed to, and on mine you can't plug 'em in wrong. The connectors look the same, but have different detents).

From what I'm reading here, I now suspect a ground and/or fuse. At least I hope it's that simple. Thanks for all the replies. Keep 'em coming. When I find it, I'll update.

[Big Dan]

BKACHE,
Are you referring to the turn signal switch? I'm not familiar with the term star actuator. I'll darn well have a look, though.

[HenryJ]

"Mine was not a ground (else the light would not work) "

That is why I see so many people miss the grounding problems.  They assume that if there is no ground the lights would not come on at all.  Wrong!  The lights will come on but they will do all kinds of weird things.  Kinda sorta don't make no good sense, but it happens that way.

[BKACHE]

Go ahead and gound the wire and see if the light comes on - RIGHT?

If you take the switch out of the housing, the cover rotates on what looks like a star. (my term and engineer for HD must call it something different.)   

Good luck!

[Big Dan]

Fixed!!

Although you cannot interchange the connectors for the right & left handlebar switches on this bike, you can indeed interchange the connector for the right-side switches with one of the other connectors. 

Sometimes, I'm glad I'm an idiot. This was an easy fix.

[thunderalley3]

Dan,

It is not being an idiot, it is learning. I always try to read, and sometimes post on issues such as these. I saw a post on here and responded to it yesterday for a map sensor issue, it is so easy to overlook the obvious, it was stated in that post, just did a 95" kit, I pointed him to the connector on the map sensor, possible broken, dislodged, it fixed it as the pin was bent over when it was inserted, nothing to do with the product, just an assembly error, I hope my post sent you in the right direction as well, as yes you can plug connectors into the wrong connectors, and no, I am not stating this to say that I know everything, as I will be the first to say I do not, and I think alot of others can say that they do not as well, the reason I am posting this is to try to show the members that there are dealer tech's out there who care about what they do, who are willing to help out others, as we have made the same mistakes, and that we are not all "Stealers" with no knowledge of the product, so when you are making a post, and attempting to avoid your local stealer, it just may be that person helping you out.

Not meant to offend

[Big Dan]

thunderalley,

Didn't offend me a bit. Saved me. I thought that none of the connectors would interchange, but your post made me look a little closer, and I found out I was wrong about that. Thanks!

And as for dealers, I have a great relationship with my local dealer (Uke's in Kenosha, Wisconsin). Lots of good, knowledgeable folks there to deal with, and they don't price gouge.

[ederdelyi]

>>the reason I am posting this is to try to show the members that there are dealer tech's out there who care about what they do, who are willing to help out others, as we have made the same mistakes, and that we are not all "Stealers" with no knowledge of the product, so when you are making a post, and attempting to avoid your local stealer, it just may be that person helping you out.<<

One of my pet peeves ... lots of folks here seem to forget that many members here make their living from the subject matter of this forum. I really wish that the mods would clamp down on the use of  "stealer" and other derogatory terms used to describe folks who work in the industry ... that "a$$hole" just might be the guy/gal who has the answer to your problem. If you have a problem with a dealer or an indy then work it out with them, but don't lump the entire industry into the problem. There are both good and bad dealers/indys ... use the power of your wallet, not name calling.

[thunderalley3]

Dan,

I just wanted you to know that I was not directing the stealer issue towards you, or anyone personally. I am glad that you have a great relationship with your dealer, I was just making a general comment and it happen to wind up on your post. Mistakes happen, and those that care learn from them. Believe me I did not know that those plugs would interchange from studying a book, I have done it as well, and I would not even guess how long I spent finding it as I was sure that it was something else as well. I am glad that my mistake could have helped you to a quicker correction.

Ride fast, take chances and you will meet new people !!

[Old Crow]

>>the reason I am posting this is to try to show the members that there are dealer tech's out there who care about what they do, who are willing to help out others, as we have made the same mistakes, and that we are not all "Stealers" with no knowledge of the product, so when you are making a post, and attempting to avoid your local stealer, it just may be that person helping you out.<<

One of my pet peeves ... lots of folks here seem to forget that many members here make their living from the subject matter of this forum. I really wish that the mods would clamp down on the use of  "stealer" and other derogatory terms used to describe folks who work in the industry ... that "a$$hole" just might be the guy/gal who has the answer to your problem. If you have a problem with a dealer or an indy then work it out with them, but don't lump the entire industry into the problem. There are both good and bad dealers/indys ... use the power of your wallet, not name calling.

I don't make my living from working on motorcycles(just a bit of beer money from time to time), but I've spent 18 years of my life working as a tech at GM dealerships. 

Since getting on the 'net I've found that the "stealership" attitude isn't just a Harley thing.  It also extends to the auto industry as a whole.  Can't tell you how many times I've seen the same basic comments over on the auto related newsgroups and forums that I frequent.  I guess that people just aren't willing to pay for knowledge anymore. 

When you get right down to it, despite the name on the building(Ford, Chevy, Harley), we techs do not work for the big corps, we work for small businesses in  your home town.  We're gear heads, just like you, that just happen to make a living from our passion.  It took my over 23 years of busting my knuckles, screwing up my back and bascially treating myself in a pretty rough fashion to aqquire the knowledge that I despense freely on these forums. 
Try getting a lawyer or a doctor(or a plumber, for that matter)to give you a consultation for free...try getting a politician to do*anything* for free.

[Ultrashovel]

First, you have checked all of the fuses, eh?

Second, if a signal light is on all of the time, it is generally a clear indication that you have what I call a "signal short". That is, not a "crowbar short" to ground, but rather a short betweern two signal wires permitting a circuit to be completed.

For example, I removed my left handlebar cluster on my Ultra to change the handlegrps. When reconnected, I got the "signal light of death" - that is, after three blinks of hte left signal light, it would keep on going, forever, if I didn't shut it off.

I tried everyhing I could think of and finally, after a solid week of much gnashing of teeth and pulling of hair, I was forced to take the bike, sidecar and all, to the dealer. The reason I did this is that the dealer has the breakout box that permits complete inspection of the wiring harnesses and, in conjunction wit the breakout box, they have the digital technician. That's a special laptop computer that they use for downloads and checking of wiing, etc.

It took them an hour to trace the turn signal harness and they fiound where I had caused the insulaton to come off of two adjacent wires. They spliced and insulated the wires and the problem was fixed.

If you are missing power in one area, you have probably disconnected a ground from that part of the harness. Time to get out your volt ohmeter.

If you can't get it, you may have to pay the dealer to do it. Some of the wiring problems are tough to locate. I wish I could be more helpful but wiring problems are all different and are tough to find.

As to the issue of calling the dealer "stealers", I don't hold with that. When they worked on my problem with the handlebar wire, the technician also found a worn wire where the lighting cable enters the sidecar fender. I never would have found that one. While I always try to fix things myself, there are times that you do have to pay for the knowledge and equipment that the dealer possesses.

[Big Dan]

Ultrashovel,
See reply #18. It's fixed. Thunderalley was right on the money.