Removing inner cam chain tensioner?

[JohnK]

Anyone have success without purchasing or fabricating a 'special tool'  any 'tricks' you might care to share?

I've already purchased the 'special tool' from Cyco to replace the shoes, and the 'special tool' from Heartland to R&R the inner cam bearings...

do I need the 'special tool' to retract and lock the tensioner and the 'special tool' to R&R the cams as well?

[Snowyone]

Well I've replaced cams a few times and had no problem pushing the tensioner in by hand and installing the screws.  Just make sure when all is said and done the timing marks are still aligned.

[JohnK]

Sorry, I should clarify- I'm talking about the early style spring tensioners like below, not the hydraulic variety

[JohnK]

...oh and I forgot the 'special tool' required to lock the crank and cam sprockets for loosening them off 

[PeteH]

There is a video floating around of a "plier" that a guy made just for that.

Grabs the shoe and the spring and compresses the whole thing.

I think popping the cams out would be easier than making the tool. I didn't have special tools for that.

BTW the old shoe pins just drive out on the jig. no need to grind down the old peens.

[smoserx1]

This is the tool that is used to remove the cams from the plate and to reinstall the cams with new bearings. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davidson-Twin-Cam-Shaft-Bearing-Removal-and-Installer-Tool-TC88-1999-2006-/271465450591?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f349a0c5f&vxp=mtr

If you have a service manual it shows these.  Might be able to use sockets instead.  They also have to be used with a shop press.  Some folks heat the assembly in an oven and claim everything comes out easily, then upon installation you heat the cam plate and simultaneously freeze the cams and bearings.  They tap in easily.  Theoretically this way you could reuse your bearings because they  should come out without cross loading them.  Good luck.

[CW#]

Sorry, I should clarify- I'm talking about the early style spring tensioners like below, not the hydraulic variety

I didn't use one. Somewhere I saw a post that there was an easy substitution for the special tool. I don't recall what it was, but I think you can probably search the forums for it. I do remember that I just used a small allen wrench to hold it back from the chain. I also remember that someone cut the side out of a socket and made their own, but I didn't even have to go that far... sorry for the old age memory.

[koko3052]

Pry up the tensioner & stick a drill bit in to hold it... not rocket science.

For the cam & bearings removal just use your oven for removal & oven & freezer to install. Don't go above 275F.
Save your cash for 

[Wicked]

Pry up the tensioner & stick a drill bit in to hold it... not rocket science.

For the cam & bearings removal just use your oven for removal & oven & freezer to install. Don't go above 275F.
Save your cash for 

I'm guessing he wants to replace the tensioner without removing the cams from the plate...

Paul

[vafatboy1]

Done it several times using an open wrench of appropriate size, slipped a screw driver in the box end for leverage.  When cam plate is in place, the inner can be pulled back to insert pin with wire.

[ThumperDeuce]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZF4VNZL01I&feature=player_detailpage

[dynaman]

There are posts out there showing where a few guys cut, notched, and welded metal bed frames to get the inside tensioner off without removing the cams, but details about how to actually fabricate one were sketchy, at least to me.
Some fella developed a more professional tool to do it and has a video on YouTube.  He offers to sell or rent the tool and provides an email address.  I tried to contact him about renting one late last year and got no response. 
Probably easier to remove the cams from the camplate as others have already suggested.

[vafatboy1]

Pry up the tensioner & stick a drill bit in to hold it... not rocket science.

For the cam & bearings removal just use your oven for removal & oven & freezer to install. Don't go above 275F.
Save your cash for 

I'm guessing he wants to replace the tensioner without removing the cams from the plate...

Paul

It's difficult to remove the tensioners without removing the cams and chains.

[Karl H.]

I heat the cam plate as shown in the pic and pull the cams including bearings with ease:

[Trouble]

Heat. Heat & freeze as mentioned. Same bearings, 40,000mi. Change inners to Torringtons.

[JohnK]

yeah was kinda hoping to do this without pulling the cams. I saw the one video with the home-made tensioner tool, but it's good to see the other ideas. I've got my own version of this tool planned out nicely in my head, and I may just put a little effort into this... or I may just succumb to the itch to ride, and use the heat method to get this bike back on the road asap. I don't see any real shortcuts to this job but it never hurts to ask. Appreciate the responses and I'll follow up when I decide what approach to use here.

[JohnK]

Made my own version of 'The Tensioner Tool' spent a lot of time and was still a biotch but I got this done.
Now I can start assembly.

Next time I'll avoid trying to be smart and just use heat.

[sbaumann14]

the heat doesn't mess up the shoe material?  how long do you leave it in the oven?

[FLHRI_2004]

That tool looks like a nifty idea.  It's a wonder that somebody hasn't made a commercial version of a tool to do that.

I just used a propane torch to mildly heat the cam plate and the cams/bearings dropped out.  Heated again to get the cam & bearings back in.  Not that much to it.

[sbaumann14]

thanks....will give that a try

[Karl H.]

the heat doesn't mess up the shoe material?  how long do you leave it in the oven?

No problem! Polyamide 6 (Cyco) has a melting point at 428°F. Phenolic resin (HD) is a duroplastic material and won't melt at any temp.

Karl

[sbaumann14]

good info

[JohnK]

I've used heat to change press fit bearings in a few applications, generally it works surprisingly well. Just need to use a little common sense to decide where and how much heat you can get away with.

In this instance, I wanted to avoid pulling the cams and the subsequent hassle of making sure they are properly timed etc, on assembly. I may try to 'tweak' the tensioner tool I made since I have a few buddies that may need this service as well.

One trick I did learn from this experience is to take a stone (maybe 80 or 100 grit) and hone all the sharp edges off the bottom of the spring anchor leg so that it doesn't catch on the aluminum as you are trying to jam it into its hole.

[BUBBIE]

JFYI,

Rid the inner and outer Shoes...

In my Early 1/2 year TC 2000, the rear bearing Dropped out and the front Pulled easily at room temperature.

The SCREWED with the cam-plate when they only needed to Replace the ball style drive cam bearing with a roller type...

I switched over to the Delkron cam-plate and went Gear drives 570's. Crank run-out was .0015... SMILE

BUT that was on the Second Crank. First stock crank Pealed hard facing off the Crank Pin at 18,000 miles.

signed....BUBBIE

ADDED:

The Cyco's do a good job for replacement and Remember NOT to turn the chains the Other Direction (reversing them)... Keeping them turning the same direction they came OFF seems to run it Smooth against the new shoe and Lasting longer...

[madtownrydr]

Does anyone know if this works on the inner tensioner?
http://mcspareparts.com/epages/40a0c441-70ce-4cfa-849d-21b25e92ecb2.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/40a0c441-70ce-4cfa-849d-21b25e92ecb2/Products/%231