New bandit sportsman problem

[clawdog60]

Yep, that's why I'm leaving the bandit alone and changing up to the 1 piece IPB. I bought the jims part since they were the only supplier I found that referenced working with a bandit hub. Stock hub was a poor spline to spline fit.

Retract: jims 1 piece bearing does NOT work with a bandit clutch hub (sportsman). Either I read the amazon add wrong or they miss quoted jims literature. I think the latter,wouldn't be the first time.
Will I have problems if I machine off 1/32nd off inner side and 3/32nds off clutch side of sns race to accommodate the bandit and stovk ip bearing??

[FSG]

Will I have problems if I machine off 1/32nd off inner side and 3/32nds off clutch side of sns race to accommodate the bandit and stovk ip bearing??

You would be defeating the purpose of the S&S Race, it'd be better to just use the stock race.

[clawdog60]

Thanks, yeah read an archived thread and that's what I suspected. Looks like stock race and loctite or baker hitorque bearing.   Damit

[joe_lyons]

Don't forget to time the pressure plate to the hub.  Can't remember if that's in the directions or not.

[Eglider05]

Thanks, yeah read an archived thread and that's what I suspected. Looks like stock race and loctite or baker hitorque bearing.   Damit

I haven't tried it but if the Jims bearing won't work I don't think the Baker will either.

Rick

[clawdog60]

The baker site shows it in the IP with 2 snap rings (reuse old ones) so it would have to be same width as stock bearing. Doesn't sound strong at all must only be single row ball bearing. Am I the only person to install a bandit and have this problem? Im thinking cut down the sns race and loctite what's left can't be any worse than a stock race.

[Eglider05]

Im thinking cut down the sns race and loctite what's left can't be any worse than a stock race.

I'm thinking it would work. I considered it but didn't know if there would be enough taper left for it to be beneficial and I had a stock race so I just went with that and some Loctite after I had my issues. So far so good.

Rick

[clawdog60]

Don't forget to time the pressure plate to the hub.  Can't remember if that's in the directions or not.

I don't recall that in the bandit cut sheet, will reread.

[clawdog60]

Im thinking cut down the sns race and loctite what's left can't be any worse than a stock race.

I'm thinking it would work. I considered it but didn't know if there would be enough taper left for it to be beneficial and I had a stock race so I just went with that and some Loctite after I had my issues. So far so good.

Rick

I think i will reverse my material removal from above statement. 1/32nd off taper end. I measure 3/16ths of taper. Will reposition race on shaft accordingly.

[Eglider05]

Im thinking cut down the sns race and loctite what's left can't be any worse than a stock race.

I'm thinking it would work. I considered it but didn't know if there would be enough taper left for it to be beneficial and I had a stock race so I just went with that and some Loctite after I had my issues. So far so good.

Rick

I think i will reverse my material removal from above statement. 1/32nd off taper end. I measure 3/16ths of taper. Will reposition race on shaft accordingly.

Yep, take it off the taper end. It won't help to take it off the inboard side. You don't want to end up like I did. 

Rick

[clawdog60]

The sns has 2 grooves cut into it on the inner side. Not sure what they accomplish but I will not remove enough material to get near these or totally remove the locking taper.

[Eglider05]

The sns has 2 grooves cut into it on the inner side. Not sure what they accomplish but I will not remove enough material to get near these or totally remove the locking taper.

Please be sure to update us and make a note of how much you had to take off. This may be the way I go next time the primary is apart. I like the SnS but back at the time I was putting things back together from my fiasco I didn't have a spare SnS but I did have an spare stocker. That was the only thing preventing me from getting it back on the road so........

Rick

[clawdog60]

Will do Rick. As far as I can tell The sns could be run farther inboard, and the taper end only needs to be say .003 in from edge of the mainshaft where the splines stop, but likely would run into getting a puller behind it, unless like some just cut it  .  I'm still going to machine off the amounts stated, main thing is leave enough race to have a place for the seal and bearing to ride with some locking taper still in use, and looking at the witness marks this shouldn't be a problem. Have to be sure i'm close to the spec clearance on the quad seal side for removal if necessary. I would like to see bandit and sns work together to get this setup to be a buy, install, and ride deal, but......