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Top End Knock

Started by 96flhpi, March 28, 2009, 09:28:25 PM

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96flhpi

April 21, 2009, 07:48:45 PM #25 Last Edit: April 22, 2009, 03:19:41 PM by 96flhpi
Oh yeah, forgot, one of the cyl studs came out of the case when I tried to remove nut.  No damage to threads or anything but should I use green or red loctite when I put it back?

Thanks again.

Lew

Most likely a machining boo boo.  Possible the cylinder is bored out of square or egged.
Locktite Stud N Bearing is recommended on the studs but I've used Red 271 with no problems.

Lew
-It is now later than it has ever been before-

96flhpi


NormL

piston is shot, that looks aweful.  Either too tight a fit or no oil on start up, or overheated during break in.  I had that happen when Zipper built mine years ago, I assembled it and babied it for 70 miles.  The engine seized right up when I stopped.  Had to wait until it cooled to restart it (very tight still).  I'm sure it was fit too tight, they blamed my tuning.   Once I reassembled with fresh pistons (from another shop, on my own dime) it ran great, same tuning.

Oh ya, rocker arm end play  .004" - .012".  I like the tight side of that, over .010 and you can hear it pretty good.

Good luck, You must be getting quick at the head R&R though.
Cracky
Swanton, Vermont

96flhpi

Yeah Norml - looks worse in real life than the pic shows.  Tend to think it's too loose if anything, though.  Had to pull the heads after initial heat cycles and a 10 mile ride (head gaskets leaking) and there was not a mark on the cylinders - looked like the day I installed them.  After that got a clacking noise that went away when warm, but it just got worse and worse til it didn't go away at all and here we stand.  Noticed I could really rock piston in cyl when pulled the heads this time, course not too accurate cause of all the scoring on both piston and cyl wall.