Mikuni HSR 45 and DTT ignition

[Diesel Pro]

'01 FXDWG Mackie ported Megasphere heads at 10.5 CR, Custom Andrews cams at .620,  DTT ignition-custom mapped,  Thunderheader


HSR 45 with 17.5 pilot, 97 needle, 170-175 main  Yost power tube emulsion jet in main holder.

I've been fighting ping at 2500rpm roll on.  I went into the ignition and dropped a bunch of timing in the affected area and took care of it, but the response got a bit lazy and MPG dropped from 40+ to 35.

Recently started working on it again.  Put the timing back in and started messing with the jetting.  I found that I had to run the 97 needle in the lowest clip setting.  Then the ping is gone but mpg back to 35 range.  Tried adding a bit more timing in the cruise area.  Still no ping, still no MPG.

Reading the sticky thread from thenowhereman on another forum does have me thinking that maybe I should try the larger needle jet.  He did the Y8 and gained performance and MPG at the same time, but he was also working with a much larger 127" engine.  Also looks like he's been banned for years now?  The Mikuni needles are pretty much the same measurement in the taper so switching from the 97 to the 96 would really only get me low throttle opening gains.

My other thought was to go up to the 20 pilot and see if I can bring the needle clip back to center.  It seems that very light throttle is about the only place that I am lean right now.

[dynaglide]

do you have an AFR gauge?  If not, you should very seriously consider getting one, such as the Innovate MTX-L.  Until you KNOW what your AFR is at a given throttle position with the Mik, you're just chasing your tail...

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3844-MTX-L-Complete/dp/B004MDT8MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443223974&sr=8-1&keywords=mtx-l+wideband

PS.  Never used the Yost on a Mik, so I don't know what it does to the fuel curve, but a 17.5 slow jet is way too lean for a 45 Mik with stock main jet/jet holder and -97 needle.

Get the AFR sorted out before you try timing adjustments - been there, got the t-shirt 

[Nowhereman]

'01 FXDWG Mackie ported Megasphere heads at 10.5 CR, Custom Andrews cams at .620,  DTT ignition-custom mapped,  Thunderheader


HSR 45 with 17.5 pilot, 97 needle, 170-175 main  Yost power tube emulsion jet in main holder.

I've been fighting ping at 2500rpm roll on.  I went into the ignition and dropped a bunch of timing in the affected area and took care of it, but the response got a bit lazy and MPG dropped from 40+ to 35.

Recently started working on it again.  Put the timing back in and started messing with the jetting.  I found that I had to run the 97 needle in the lowest clip setting.  Then the ping is gone but mpg back to 35 range.  Tried adding a bit more timing in the cruise area.  Still no ping, still no MPG.

Reading the sticky thread from thenowhereman on another forum does have me thinking that maybe I should try the larger needle jet.  He did the Y8 and gained performance and MPG at the same time, but he was also working with a much larger 127" engine.  Also looks like he's been banned for years now?  The Mikuni needles are pretty much the same measurement in the taper so switching from the 97 to the 96 would really only get me low throttle opening gains.

My other thought was to go up to the 20 pilot and see if I can bring the needle clip back to center.  It seems that very light throttle is about the only place that I am lean right now.

Banned? never, just took a vacation.
You want info on Mik setups, let me know.
I've done soooo much over the years I could write a book.

[Nowhereman]

Here is my setup for my 45 Mik on the 127.

Pilot jet - 27.5  1 1/2 turns out from bottom.

Needle - 95 all the way down in the hole so that means top clip position.

Needle Jet - Y8 003-688 (this is where people loose it as they don't change this piece during set up. It does make a big difference in transition to the main.)

Main - 185

This setup on my 127 give incredible response, no lean out condition and is clean from idle to WOT.
Mileage as long as I don't run extended over 3000 rpm will be 38 to 40 MPG with no headwind.
All I've done to the motor is to clean up and polish the exhaust ports.
Changed pushrods to a Smith Bros. set due to a slight bow in the rear exhaust push rod.
This motor passes a lot of air and that Mik is a near perfect carb for it.

[Nowhereman]

'01 FXDWG Mackie ported Megasphere heads at 10.5 CR, Custom Andrews cams at .620,  DTT ignition-custom mapped,  Thunderheader


HSR 45 with 17.5 pilot, 97 needle, 170-175 main  Yost power tube emulsion jet in main holder.

I've been fighting ping at 2500rpm roll on.  I went into the ignition and dropped a bunch of timing in the affected area and took care of it, but the response got a bit lazy and MPG dropped from 40+ to 35.

Recently started working on it again.  Put the timing back in and started messing with the jetting.  I found that I had to run the 97 needle in the lowest clip setting.  Then the ping is gone but mpg back to 35 range.  Tried adding a bit more timing in the cruise area.  Still no ping, still no MPG.

Reading the sticky thread from thenowhereman on another forum does have me thinking that maybe I should try the larger needle jet.  He did the Y8 and gained performance and MPG at the same time, but he was also working with a much larger 127" engine.  Also looks like he's been banned for years now?  The Mikuni needles are pretty much the same measurement in the taper so switching from the 97 to the 96 would really only get me low throttle opening gains.

My other thought was to go up to the 20 pilot and see if I can bring the needle clip back to center.  It seems that very light throttle is about the only place that I am lean right now.

Lots of times if you get ping on roll ons, it's due to your pump shot being too short and or too small.
Good thing is you can adjust both real easy.
Make sure you run a main jet extender down into the bowl to keep her from being thirsty.
Don't run a VOES petcock, get a big Pingel to feed that carb and don't evr use inline fuel filters.

[Admiral Akbar]

First off it sounds like you pulled timing from the wrong place..

Second, the Mic does not have an emulsion tube.. The Yost is nothing more than a main-jet extension like the 48s have..

Going to a larger needle jet may help but I would try the 96 - 95 needles first.. The needle jet is nothing more than a extended range for the needle tho they will richen the narrower section of the needle.. Raising the needle is about the same..  The needle jet has 0.04mm steps and the needles are 0.01 mm.. The number on the needle is the diameter of the straight section + 2mm IE  a 95 needle is 2.95mm 

Miks will go lean if not enough fuel flow, they are also very susceptible to vibration, more than an emulsion tubed carb.

I wouldn't be surprised if you don't need a bigger main if it runs good partial throttle.. What position if the throttle at when the ping occurs?  30% ? 70% ?.

[jrgreene1968]

Have you checked intake for leaks? That pilot sounds to small. On my 45 mik, the jetting was real close out of the box for a 98" , except I went up on the main 1 size and backed out on the accelerator pump scene 3/4 turn to start acc pump sooner

[Diesel Pro]

OK lots to respond to.  Sorry Nowhere, but I swear your status thing said banned.

I do not have an AFR gauge, but have considered adding a simple temporary setup.   Problem is, on a minimalistic bike not a lot of room to mount things and  I'd have to drill and weld for sensor
etc.

Petcock is a Pingle high flow-from nearly day one

Checked for vacuum leaks

Yost is a main jet extender, long drain cap with an emulsion tube pressed into it.  It uses Yost or stock CV jets I believe.

As for timing I likely hit it wider and harder than I needed to, but with limited insight that's all that I could really do.  The problem is that I have the Zippers version of the DTT.  Zippers will not talk on the phone and is does not have much to offer for support.  DTT has been pretty much the same since the loss of Chris Shroeder.  Based on the operating statistics of the module showing that I spent the vast majority of my time at 2500-2999 RPM I worked the 2000, 2500, and 3,000 cells and it accomplished what I was after.  The one simple question I have tried to get answered on the DTT ignition is what hg range would a guy typically be running in at light to moderate load cruise?  I'm guessing that it would be in the 20-24"hg range with a more stock bike running closer to 20" and a bigger cam bike closer to 24"?   



 

My pump squirter is a 50, but I have a 60 here as well.  I think my next test will be the 20 pilot, 60 squirter and back to the 97 needle in center and see where that gets me. 

I should note that once upon a time when we had good 93 octane gas there was very little ping, but it was on the edge.  As the 93 went away and all we have is 91 it has gotten much worse.  I always used to run the Cal Products Rocket Fuel booster, but have taken a break from that until I get the tuning straight and then I will resume for an added cushion.   

[Admiral Akbar]

Petcock is a Pingle high flow-from nearly day one

Any line filter?  Make sure your tank vents real well

Yost is a main jet extender, long drain cap with an emulsion tube pressed into it.  It uses Yost or stock CV jets I believe.

An emulsion tube needs air to emulsify the fuel.. How does the Yost get the air?

As for timing I likely hit it wider and harder than I needed to, but with limited insight that's all that I could really do.  The problem is that I have the Zippers version of the DTT.  Zippers will not talk on the phone and is does not have much to offer for support.  DTT has been pretty much the same since the loss of Chris Shroeder.  Based on the operating statistics of the module showing that I spent the vast majority of my time at 2500-2999 RPM I worked the 2000, 2500, and 3,000 cells and it accomplished what I was after.  The one simple question I have tried to get answered on the DTT ignition is what hg range would a guy typically be running in at light to moderate load cruise?  I'm guessing that it would be in the 20-24"hg range with a more stock bike running closer to 20" and a bigger cam bike closer to 24"?   

Light light cruise should be in the 16 to 18 range..


 

My pump squirter is a 50, but I have a 60 here as well.  I think my next test will be the 20 pilot, 60 squirter and back to the 97 needle in center and see where that gets me. 

I should note that once upon a time when we had good 93 octane gas there was very little ping, but it was on the edge.  As the 93 went away and all we have is 91 it has gotten much worse.  I always used to run the Cal Products Rocket Fuel booster, but have taken a break from that until I get the tuning straight and then I will resume for an added cushion.

The only effect that the pilot jet has on tuning is idle.. It has no effect above that.. The Mik does not have transfer ports like the CV or SnS carbs.. At idle fuel is being sucked out of the mainjet.. The pilot jet only allow finer adjustment of the motor at idle and it typically only need change when the needle or needle jet changes.. Some times you can play with pilot size to remove exhaust pop but as long as you are withing the adjustment range Mikuni suggests in the tuning manual, it will be good..

Try your change.. If it don't work go up on the main 2 sizes.. I'd try pulling the yost also.. Post your ignition map..

[FLTRI]

I agree with Max. Pilot does very little beyond idle.
Since Mikuni has spent millions in development I also agree to replace the Mik needle jet.
I have found Mikunis to be very close in jetting right out of the box and only needs minor adjustments to dial them in.
Sometimes the main needs changing, and sometimes the needle needs adjustment...but unless the build is more than mild, the Mik42s,45s,and 48s come close from the box.
A note: I have found the 42s and 48s to be a better carburetor to dial in than the 45s....possibly due to the 45 being a bored 42?
Bob

[Diesel Pro]

Let's see if this works:

Note:  With this tune and current jetting there is no ping whatsoever except that I sometimes think I hear a ping right at the onset of a throttle blip.  If there is a ping it is a single and I may ne hearing things.


[attach=0]

[Diesel Pro]

Any line filter?  Make sure your tank vents real well

An emulsion tube needs air to emulsify the fuel.. How does the Yost get the air?


Light light cruise should be in the 16 to 18 range..


 

The only effect that the pilot jet has on tuning is idle.. It has no effect above that.. The Mik does not have transfer ports like the CV or SnS carbs.. At idle fuel is being sucked out of the mainjet.. The pilot jet only allow finer adjustment of the motor at idle and it typically only need change when the needle or needle jet changes.. Some times you can play with pilot size to remove exhaust pop but as long as you are withing the adjustment range Mikuni suggests in the tuning manual, it will be good..

Try your change.. If it don't work go up on the main 2 sizes.. I'd try pulling the yost also.. Post your ignition map..

No inline filter just the fine mesh on the Pingel.

The Yost tube is a perforated piece. how does it get it's air?  Cavitation? 

Thanks for the tip on the MAP.  It would be exceptionally handy if the DTT operating stats would log that part as well.

I was told that the pilot was always present just to a lesser effect as throttle opened.

[Nowhereman]

OK lots to respond to.  Sorry Nowhere, but I swear your status thing said banned.

I do not have an AFR gauge, but have considered adding a simple temporary setup.   Problem is, on a minimalistic bike not a lot of room to mount things and  I'd have to drill and weld for sensor
etc.

Petcock is a Pingle high flow-from nearly day one

Checked for vacuum leaks

Yost is a main jet extender, long drain cap with an emulsion tube pressed into it.  It uses Yost or stock CV jets I believe.

As for timing I likely hit it wider and harder than I needed to, but with limited insight that's all that I could really do.  The problem is that I have the Zippers version of the DTT.  Zippers will not talk on the phone and is does not have much to offer for support.  DTT has been pretty much the same since the loss of Chris Shroeder.  Based on the operating statistics of the module showing that I spent the vast majority of my time at 2500-2999 RPM I worked the 2000, 2500, and 3,000 cells and it accomplished what I was after.  The one simple question I have tried to get answered on the DTT ignition is what hg range would a guy typically be running in at light to moderate load cruise?  I'm guessing that it would be in the 20-24"hg range with a more stock bike running closer to 20" and a bigger cam bike closer to 24"?   



 

My pump squirter is a 50, but I have a 60 here as well.  I think my next test will be the 20 pilot, 60 squirter and back to the 97 needle in center and see where that gets me. 

I should note that once upon a time when we had good 93 octane gas there was very little ping, but it was on the edge.  As the 93 went away and all we have is 91 it has gotten much worse.  I always used to run the Cal Products Rocket Fuel booster, but have taken a break from that until I get the tuning straight and then I will resume for an added cushion.

No problem, I might have been.
There was this one site that had a few dick heads on it.
I told em where to go and I was booted.
I always call em like I see em.
No other way to live.
Be respectful and demand respect.

[FLTRI]

I was told that the pilot was always present just to a lesser effect as throttle opened.

When you get a chance take a look at the size of the hole in the pilot jet. A magnifying glass will help. This is why the pilot jet just affects idle. While it's continuing to feed fuel it's virtually unmeasurable.
Bob

[Nowhereman]

Case in point.
I threw on a set of Pro Streets a week ago.
Went on without much bother but after a few rides, I decided that the decel backfire was a little too much as I didn't have it much on the TH.
I run a 27.5 idle jet in the 45 Mik that is on my 127.
I adjusted the idle jet from 1.5 turns out to 1.25 turns out.
That little enrichment at the low end literally eliminated the decel back fire.
With Mikunis, all adjustments effect others.
Miks are sensitive to lots of things but they can be dialed right on without much work.

[Admiral Akbar]

Any line filter?  Make sure your tank vents real well

An emulsion tube needs air to emulsify the fuel.. How does the Yost get the air?


Light light cruise should be in the 16 to 18 range..


 

The only effect that the pilot jet has on tuning is idle.. It has no effect above that.. The Mik does not have transfer ports like the CV or SnS carbs.. At idle fuel is being sucked out of the mainjet.. The pilot jet only allow finer adjustment of the motor at idle and it typically only need change when the needle or needle jet changes.. Some times you can play with pilot size to remove exhaust pop but as long as you are withing the adjustment range Mikuni suggests in the tuning manual, it will be good..

Try your change.. If it don't work go up on the main 2 sizes.. I'd try pulling the yost also.. Post your ignition map..

No inline filter just the fine mesh on the Pingel.

The Yost tube is a perforated piece. how does it get it's air?  Cavitation? 

Thanks for the tip on the MAP.  It would be exceptionally handy if the DTT operating stats would log that part as well.

I was told that the pilot was always present just to a lesser effect as throttle opened.

Not sure what the perforations do other than slow fuel velocity..  It won't be cavitation..

Looked at the map.. Then rechecked your build.. IIRC magashpere setup is semi hemi.. I was thinking that you might want to switch back to the dials but it looks has custom timing requirements.  Your best bet is likely to pull timing in the map.  There used to be a map that showed where to pull timing but it seems to be gone..Anyway for roll on timing you pull at the rpm and the pressure between 22-26 in hg..

The pilot will always flow some fuel but it's effect is minimal above idle as the mainjet / needle flows way more.. The best way to set the pilot jet is to get the small throttle position fuel metering working will with the  needle/ needle jet then set the pilot jet so that the air adjustment is in  the middle of the recommended turns from seated..  Pilot / pilot air adjustment are only there to adjust AFR a the throttle closed position. Its effect falls off quickly as the throttle is opened.

Nowhere man's pilot air adjustment is a good case in point.. He enriched the closed throttle position slightly to stop the decel pop..

[Diesel Pro]

OK lots to respond to.  Sorry Nowhere, but I swear your status thing said banned.

No problem, I might have been.
There was this one site that had a few dick heads on it.
I told em where to go and I was booted.
I always call em like I see em.
No other way to live.
Be respectful and demand respect.

It was the V-twin forum.

[Diesel Pro]

Any line filter?  Make sure your tank vents real well

An emulsion tube needs air to emulsify the fuel.. How does the Yost get the air?


Light light cruise should be in the 16 to 18 range..


 

The only effect that the pilot jet has on tuning is idle.. It has no effect above that.. The Mik does not have transfer ports like the CV or SnS carbs.. At idle fuel is being sucked out of the mainjet.. The pilot jet only allow finer adjustment of the motor at idle and it typically only need change when the needle or needle jet changes.. Some times you can play with pilot size to remove exhaust pop but as long as you are withing the adjustment range Mikuni suggests in the tuning manual, it will be good..

Try your change.. If it don't work go up on the main 2 sizes.. I'd try pulling the yost also.. Post your ignition map..

No inline filter just the fine mesh on the Pingel.

The Yost tube is a perforated piece. how does it get it's air?  Cavitation? 

Thanks for the tip on the MAP.  It would be exceptionally handy if the DTT operating stats would log that part as well.

I was told that the pilot was always present just to a lesser effect as throttle opened.

Not sure what the perforations do other than slow fuel velocity..  It won't be cavitation..

Looked at the map.. Then rechecked your build.. IIRC magashpere setup is semi hemi.. I was thinking that you might want to switch back to the dials but it looks has custom timing requirements.  Your best bet is likely to pull timing in the map.  There used to be a map that showed where to pull timing but it seems to be gone..Anyway for roll on timing you pull at the rpm and the pressure between 22-26 in hg..

The pilot will always flow some fuel but it's effect is minimal above idle as the mainjet / needle flows way more.. The best way to set the pilot jet is to get the small throttle position fuel metering working will with the  needle/ needle jet then set the pilot jet so that the air adjustment is in  the middle of the recommended turns from seated..  Pilot / pilot air adjustment are only there to adjust AFR a the throttle closed position. Its effect falls off quickly as the throttle is opened.

Nowhere man's pilot air adjustment is a good case in point.. He enriched the closed throttle position slightly to stop the decel pop..

Sure would be nice if DTT would have taken a little time and pointed some of this stuff out.  If I had a data logger and AFR I could easily figure it out, but something so dirt simple can be a pain when working in the dark.

Right now it's doing well for performance and the only real knock is mpg which for the little I ride it I can live with.  It just would be nice to have that extra 20 miles trip range.

Say does anybody here have the HP calculating software that I could have check my two different cam options out with?

[Diesel Pro]

I was looking for my dyno plots and couldn't find them, but apparently I took a digital pic. This was done before I had the DTT ignition. I hate to guess what I was running at the time, but it was probably the Crane, possibly Dynatek.  Shop that did the work is no longer around.  I did dyno on a different mobile dyno in Tomahawk and backed up the numbers.

[Diesel Pro]

So I did the Thunderheader baffle mod and also increased the duration of the pump squirt a bit . I need to go back to the squirt duration as I think it could still be more, but I'm back to my original setup:

52° ambient temps

17.5 pilot with air screw about 1-1/4 turns out as I recall.  I did have intake popping at low speeds when blipping throttle which is quite typical when cold.  What I do seasonally when the air turns cold, is I turn the air bleed in about 1/8 turn and this takes care of it.

97 needle center y-6 jet

175 main (this may be a bit large for my setup)

Ping is back no doubt.  What I find interesting is that if I am cruising and I just whack it as quick as I can I get an instant ping the very instant that the throttle moves. I'm thinking it's very lean at cruise so my next test is the 96 needle center groove since I already have it on hand.

I plan to order the Y8 needle jet to have on hand along with the 48 main jet extender. I doubt my little 95 will like as much fuel as nowhereman has in his, bit I plan to keep poking around to find the best mpg w/o the ping.

One thing I should add:  back when we were running on the dyno I distinctly recall fuel foaming out the vent at times.  Now this could have been back when I had the Mikuni manifold with the rubber flange/spigot mount intake on.  I now have the SE 44 intake and the Mikuni pushes very snugly into the manifold/boot.  I do get a curious stain on the forward part of my battery cover chrome like it may well be doing this on the road too.  I haven't seen much discussion on the foaming thing, but I did find reference from Max Headflow in a different thread.  I've been contemplating how I can build some sort of a catch can for the vent w/o affecting pressures.

[Admiral Akbar]

So I did the Thunderheader baffle mod and also increased the duration of the pump squirt a bit . I need to go back to the squirt duration as I think it could still be more, but I'm back to my original setup:

52° ambient temps

17.5 pilot with air screw about 2 turns out as I recall.  I did have intake popping at low speeds when blipping throttle which is quite typical when cold.  What I do seasonally when the air turns cold, is I turn the air bleed in about 1/8 turn and this takes care of it.

97 needle center y-6 jet

175 main (this may be a bit large for my setup)

Ping is back no doubt.  What I find interesting is that if I am cruising and I just whack it as quick as I can I get an instant ping the very instant that the throttle moves. I'm thinking it's very lean at cruise so my next test is the 96 needle center groove since I already have it on hand.

I plan to order the Y8 needle jet to have on hand along with the 48 main jet extender. I doubt my little 95 will like as much fuel as nowhereman has in his, bit I plan to keep poking around to find the best mpg w/o the ping.

One thing I should add:  back when we were running on the dyno I distinctly recall fuel foaming out the vent at times.  Now this could have been back when I had the Mikuni manifold with the rubber flange/spigot mount intake on.  I now have the SE 44 intake and the Mikuni pushes very snugly into the manifold/boot.  I do get a curious stain on the forward part of my battery cover chrome like it may well be doing this on the road too.  I haven't seen much discussion on the foaming thing, but I did find reference from Max Headflow in a different thread.  I've been contemplating how I can build some sort of a catch can for the vent w/o affecting pressures.

I would also get the 96 and 95 needles but you probably have the same issue I had.. Fuel foaming in the float bowl.. Since you have a hsr45 and not a 48 the deeper main-jet holder will help.. I started with a 48 and had to run the biggest needle jet available to get the bike to work initially..  For me the issue was that at steady cruise the motor would cough at steady cruise..  This is a semi custom bike with an after market harness for an evo.. I tried electrical mods which did nothing.. First improvement was to build a shroud for the main jet.. That let me drop the needle size and the cough became more intermittent, Seconds was to shorten the exhaust pipe amd make a tranny mount as I was having problems breaking off cylinder head exhasut studs. When I did this I end up dropping the needle jet one size and going to a thinner needle.. Last mod was to rubber mount the air cleaner. That allowed me to go to a thicker needle..   BTW Mike Roland mentioned this early on that fuel foaming in a Mikuni carb was an issue.. I probably should have reworked the AC to start..

Finding a catch for fuel overflow is like getting a bigger bilge pump on a sinking ship.. You really need to fix the hole...   In may case I had to fix the exhaust system as it was causing issues with mounting but the last 2 mods which cut the vibration the carb sees improved the fueling significantly.  Another thing to point out is that you can go to a 48 needle valve to get more flow and early needle valves have an issue with vibration.. The edge of the needle can wear a step in that will keep it from seating..

[dynaglide]

Bruce, how did you "shroud" the main jet?  And how did you rubber mount the AC?  Got any pix of that setup?

[Diesel Pro]

So I committed the cardinal sin of changing multiple things at once.

Pilot from 17.5 to 20
Pump nozzle from 50 to 60
Needle from 97 to 96 center slot

I had planned to just swap in the 96 needle, but I ended up dropping the needle washer down in the slide cavity and did not see where it went.  I also found the accel pump rod sticking.  This is actually a cool weather ritual for me.  It just doesn't want to glide like it should so I took the carb off and gave it a quick once over.  The cam was not following all the way to hit the end stop either so the squirt was stopping before 1/2 throttle.  Everything was clean, but I wiped and added a drip of EEZOX to lube things up a bit and seemed to help.  Also stretched the pump piston return spring a bit to help push it back up.

Just need to get the time to take it out for a ride and see how it does.

I should note that I believe my foaming happened when running the mikuni manifold which has a 2 bolt flange to a rubber spigot.  I believe that I may have cured it with the Ness rigid plate mount, but not sure.  That is why I was contemplating a catch can.  So I could see if it still comes out.

[Diesel Pro]

Latest setup runs pretty nice although only tested 1 up yesterday.  It is much better down at low throttle openings.  It responds much stronger and also will run lower RPM's without chugging and jerking.  It was not bad before, but it's very good now.  My ping is still there at times, but minor and more manageable. I think at this point I could handle the ping with octane boost., but I want to do a 120 mile mpg run today to see where I am.

One thing I do feel that I went in reverse on is the squirter size and volume.  One of my tests is to run at 20 and 30 mph 2nd gear and just flat can it.  It most definitely feels like it loads up then burns clean and starts to pull.   I'm thinking back to the 50 squirt nozzle and quite possibly ending the duration earlier.   

[Admiral Akbar]

Bruce, how did you "shroud" the main jet?  And how did you rubber mount the AC?  Got any pix of that setup?

Machined a piece of black nylon   to go around it..

[attach=0]

[attach=1]

[attachimg=3]

Don't have a picture of the mount disassembled but you can see a big rubber grommet monted in the top side of the vertical bar the holds the air cleaner backing plate.. I use SnS breather bolts.. The have a stepped end and hole for a 5/16-24 bolt so there is a spacer in the middle of the grommet and 2 flats washers on either side.. The AC really doesn't move very much but it's enough to allow me to drop mid range fuel..

[attachimg=4]