New engine, replace oil pan?

[HighLiner]

Is it recommended to replace the oil pan with a new engine install?  I heard they aren't easy to flush and no major carnage incured on the old engine.  Let's hear the opinions.

[joe_lyons]

"Clean" the oil pan

[PoorUB]

If the old engine did not die in a serious manor I would not worry about it. If it makes you feel better, take off the pan and flush it out although depending on the year it can be simple or darned near impossible.

[turboprop]

Is it recommended to replace the oil pan with a new engine install?  I heard they aren't easy to flush and no major carnage incured on the old engine.  Let's hear the opinions.

Replace? Hard to flush?

I don't understand your logic. If you can remove the oil pan to replace it, why would it be difficult to wash it out?

[Coyote]

Ed, the newer pans have an insert with baffles that is riveted in and makes it hard to know they are flushed out.

I have to say my preference is to use the Baker pan. Really takes the heat out of the oil based on my experience. More oil seems to get trapped though at oil change time.
[attach=0]

[HighLiner]

Ed, the newer pans have an insert with baffles that is riveted in and makes it hard to know they are flushed out.

I have to say my preference is to use the Baker pan. Really takes the heat out of the oil based on my experience. More oil seems to get trapped though at oil change time.
[attach=0]

Exactly the pan I'm talking about but no experience with flushing one out so maybe it's but Internet reteric. And damn Baker is proud of their creation!

[jam65]

Why not replace the rivets with fasteners after a good cleaning? Drill and tap.

[boooby1744]

Ed, the newer pans have an insert with baffles that is riveted in and makes it hard to know they are flushed out.

I have to say my preference is to use the Baker pan. Really takes the heat out of the oil based on my experience. More oil seems to get trapped though at oil change time.
[attach=0]

Correct on the baker pan. I let it sit few minutes, then prop up the fron to getoil to flow to the bottom of the pan. Then raise the rear to get it out.........

[Admiral Akbar]

Have it Ultrasonic cleaned..

[jam65]

Have it Ultrasonic cleaned..
[/quote
It might be cost prohibitive if he doesn't have a cleaner big enough.

[turboprop]

Ed, the newer pans have an insert with baffles that is riveted in and makes it hard to know they are flushed out.

I have to say my preference is to use the Baker pan. Really takes the heat out of the oil based on my experience. More oil seems to get trapped though at oil change time.
[attach=0]

Got it. But that still doesn't look like it would be that hard to clean.

[smoserx1]

Since you want opinions, I ride a high mileage 99 that had one of the cam bearing failures and was fixed under a special warranty way back.  The procedure was to install new stuff in the cam area and remove and flush the oil pan.  When I got it back I could tell by looking at the pan gasket and bolts it had not been removed, and I did get contamination on the drain plug for a few subsequent oil changes.  I crossed my fingers.  Fast forward about 100000 miles and the drain plug does not want to tighten up (the pan threads are about to strip).  I replaced the pan (not easy).  Anyway, the old pan (this one had removable baffle) had no obvious contamination.  Anyway last year the bike was leaking a little oil at the rear cylinder base and I decided to install SE 95 inch cylinders, flat top cast pistons and some almost new take off heads from Ebay.  This project went just fine.  Anyway the old pistons and cylinders showed normal wear (the cylinders were glass smooth inside with just a little visible honing left) but there was no evidence of any damage caused by this cam bearing failure so long ago.  My bike  now has over 183000 miles on it.  I would not worry about your oil pan.  That newer style looks like it would flush out just fine, and I sure wish they had that one when I changed mine because it would have been a  piece of cake to install compared to what I put back in (plastic baffle held down by two very stiff springs).

[BUBBIE]

Good Post  smoserx1,

AND you were one of the "GO BANG FIRST CLUB" 

I took my early 00  apart Before it blew... HD would Not do any conversion Unless it did Blow..
(covered under 1 or 2 year warranty ? then + 5 more.... saying LIFE, no matter who owned it LOL)

Early on, I took mine apart and found the Tin Cracked on the rear drive cam bearing... That tin held the Balls in place... Glad I did my own Early as I never had to Clean the pan KNOWING it was a Bitch to do...

Yes, the newer pans will clean just fine... IF you can get it loose n out.

signed....BUBBIE

[CndUltra88]

Why not replace the rivets with fasteners after a good cleaning? Drill and tap.

I can see that in the new P/A ScreaminChicken cat. for 2016 Sumer release
Anyone done this yet.
Removed, tapped and ss screws?
Rob

[HD/Wrench]

The pan is 89 dollars and it will trap a bunch of junk under the baffle. If the engine did not have a metal parts failure then reuse it . If it did buy a new one. No reason to make it difficult. As a shop we replace them on engines that broke parts. We have tried to clean and once you remove the baffle there is crap stuck under there. One other area to look at is bottom side of trans. The PC allows metal to stick to it.. Stiff plastic brush and scrub it until it is all clean.

S&S tech sent me some photos some time ago. Engine had metal in it etc , and the bottom of the trans was covered with particles.


In the end its a very low dollar item.. compared to the rest of the build..  your call but cleaning is hit or miss " if " there is junk in the pan.

[turboprop]

The pan is 89 dollars and it will trap a bunch of junk under the baffle. If the engine did not have a metal parts failure then reuse it . If it did buy a new one. No reason to make it difficult. As a shop we replace them on engines that broke parts. We have tried to clean and once you remove the baffle there is crap stuck under there. One other area to look at is bottom side of trans. The PC allows metal to stick to it.. Stiff plastic brush and scrub it until it is all clean.

S&S tech sent me some photos some time ago. Engine had metal in it etc , and the bottom of the trans was covered with particles.


In the end its a very low dollar item.. compared to the rest of the build..  your call but cleaning is hit or miss " if " there is junk in the pan.

More like $189.00. See item #19.

http://www.stcharlesharleydavidson.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#/Harley-Davidson®/FLHTCU_FCM_ULTRA_CLASSIC_(2014)/TRANSMISSION_HOUSING%2c_TOP_COVER_%26_OIL_PAN/99456-14A%5cFCM/99456-14A%5cTRANSMISSION%7c%7eHOUSING%7c%7eTOPCOVER%7c%7ePAN%5cFCM

[HD/Wrench]

Hmm guess I was wrong on price. . Still will not clean them if the engine broke parts. As a shop speaking  what guys do in their garage is there business .    189 still cheap compare to rebuilding a engine due to metal contamination. 

[rageglide]

When I tore my 103 down I flushed the oil pan.   As Steve said it is not easily flushed.   The baffles make it nearly impossible to be confident you've purged all crap.  Thankfully I was not terribly concerned about what was in the pan at the time.  I was doing it for good measure.   I did not bother to try and flush it when I re-rebuilt my 120...  I should have just bought a new pan like Steve suggests.

I would buy the Baker pan if I ever need to go back in there.  Presuming it has a removable baffle plate.   Guessing HD is using rivets in the plus-one pan.  If not, then that would be a reasonable alternative.

[topcat3815]

Harley uses screws in there plus one pan

[djl]

Why not replace the rivets with fasteners after a good cleaning? Drill and tap.

For $189 and the fact that HD uses screws in the +1 pan, this sounds like a plan. Any downside?

[jmorton10]

Hmm guess I was wrong on price. . Still will not clean them if the engine broke parts. As a shop speaking  what guys do in their garage is there business .    189 still cheap compare to rebuilding a engine due to metal contamination.

I agree 100% Steve.

When my 117" spread the wheels breaking the oil pump etc. there was no way I was reusing that old pan on a new 124" S&S motor.

I managed to score a new pan for $89 & figured that was cheap insurance.

~John

[06roadglide]

I got lucky and scored a baker +1 for $312 on amazon. I will definitely say, the +1 combined with a oil cooler, my bike runs VERY cool.  Middle of summer, 100 miles non stop with speeds between 35-70 mph, oil Temps have never been higher than about 195. 
A +1 is money well spent.

[sfmichael]

Why not replace the rivets with fasteners after a good cleaning? Drill and tap.

If you need to save $200 and you have the time and ability, do this.

Like Steve and others have said, in the big picture $200 ain't much. I'd take it apart or buy new if she dropped metal in there.

[jmorton10]

As far as the plus 1 oil pans go, IMHO they are a waste of money.

I've installed a few of them for friends and all they do is make the oil take longer to warm up.

From what I've seen, the max oil temp doesn't change, it just takes longer to get there.

My HC 124" with oil bud cooler rarely breaks 200* in any weather with a stock pan.

~John

[TweekmyTwin]

Why not replace the rivets with fasteners after a good cleaning? Drill and tap.

For $189 and the fact that HD uses screws in the +1 pan, this sounds like a plan. Any downside?

If your using a oil temp gauge, the sensor/wire plug is to long and will not fit.
I too will not use the pan if something went bad in the motor. I am currently working on a motor that was bead blasted and then powder coated ( including the tranny/oil pan ) before this went to hell. Not my build btw, found lots of crap still in the pan including paint.
I recently installed a Baker 1.5 pan.. nice stuff and easy to clean if i ever need to..
Jim