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What is your favorite carb and why?

Started by Peacekeeper45, April 05, 2009, 07:07:46 AM

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Peacekeeper45

I am asking this question because I am tired of trying to get the carb on my wife's Sporty right. I had asked for help earlier and received some very good advice but since I don't know what the history is on this bike I have come to the conclusion that some one in the past has really f'd up this Keihin that is on it. I am looking for another one and am torn between the S&S "E" or a takeoff Harley CV.
What are your experiences and opinions and why? I do want to upgrade her to a push-pull type. Your opinions are appreciated. Thanks.

eglideic

 You already have a good carb.
Just get it sorted out.
Get the HD parts book out.
If you don't have a HD parts book for your bike -GET ONE-).
It will have a parts break down for the carb with the stock parts and part numbers as delivered from the factory.
Make sure you have the same jets, needles and other parts it calls for in that carb and you should be good.

Pynzo

I like the S&S "E". Been using one since '91, and beside the midrange sputter (fixed with a Yost Powertube) have had no starting troubles cold or hot. If you're having trouble with your existant carb, also check out your ignition system for bugs as they will compound any carb problem you're experiencing.

wreck74


Peacekeeper45

No intake leak and the ignition is spot-on. I have the factory manual and have rebuilt it to spec. Problem is then gas is coming out of the lower ports. The previous owner had this bike supposedly dyno'ed and the carb set for drag pipes. I pulled the carb to install a new kit in it because it was leaking from the overflow tube. Inside I found a couple of o-rings and the plug to the main jet missing. They had also installed a 140 main jet when the manual calls for a 165 baseline. So I put it back to the baseline settings and talk about it spewing gas! The float was set with a precision float gauge so I know it is right. The only way this bike will half way run is to put it back the way the previous owner had it then set the needle for cold. After the bike is warm I reset the needle so it will half way idle but it will run down the highway for now ( just short trips) which is keeping her happy. The plugs are fouling but since there it no way of telling what the previous owner has done and past experience with carbs that someone who thought they knew what they were doing but didn't I figured it will be a lot less hassle to start fresh. I am truly believe that they might have ported the body jets some but no proof.

eglideic

 Like I said, get a PARTS manual, NOT the SERVICE manual.
You can learn an awful lot from one. Get all of the carb parts that the Parts Manual says the bike came stock with.

saltcaveminer

my guess would be the inlet valve is not fully seating.the valve seat could be dirty or scratched,the float linkage may be worn or bent.you might try to reset the float a bit leaner than the spec.(see if you can get that inlet valve to fully seat)it sounds like the fuel level is too high and screwing up the idle and then the main circuit gets so rich that you dropped down to 140 just to get her to run at all).once  you get a good idle then work on the off idle circuits.Salty ps i like the mikuni 38mm but that doesnt mean other carbs are crap.

243ron

Bendix with the adjustable main jet. Throw that stock Keihin away.

stroker800

If it were me ,,I would run a SU,,,,almost too simple to work...They are easily adjusted for big and small cubes..
Dave

nibroc


IBARider

I rebuilt a '69 xlch including the Tillotson, I think it was.  Everything in carb appeared to be good, but could not start this kicker due to fuel issues.  checked for intake leaks, fuel supply etc.  Thought I had cleaned out all the lil ports/passages too.  Threw on a new SnS E and it fired off right away and no probs since.

Obviously, I don't know enough bout tillotsons.. Anyways, I knew a brand new carb shouldn't have any issues and that happened to be an E
It slid 112 feet and I had no road rash

Lew

The early model Keihin's work well with little bs.  Later ones aren't as good but can be made to be.  I've messed with the Zenith/Bendix adjustable and have found it to be just ok.  I'm not a fan of the adjustable main jet and have found several that have the needle not centered in the jet causing weirdness.  They are a problem in areas of the country that mix alcohol in the gas.  The alcohol causes the leather accelerator pump to swell and quit working.  Keihin CV carbs are good when set up right.  The SU is my carb of choice having characteristics best suited for the v-twin engine.  For a conventional butterfly carb, the S&S E and G can't be beat.  I have an SU on my shovel and an E on my sporty and find them ideal.

Lew
-It is now later than it has ever been before-