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117" Drop In

Started by Deye76, January 16, 2016, 06:41:22 PM

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0 Members and 11 Guests are viewing this topic.

BVHOG

Well hell, lets just take that S&S 143 right out past 150 cubes.
If you don't have a sense of humor you probably have no sense at all.

Deye76

Quote from: joe_lyons on January 17, 2016, 11:32:51 AM
I'll trade some stock castings for some 110 heads if anyone has a bike with a 110 and wants to use stock heads.  ;)

Torque Inc. likes the stockers over the 110's.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

TorQuePimp

Quote from: Deye76 on January 17, 2016, 03:07:18 PM
Quote from: joe_lyons on January 17, 2016, 11:32:51 AM
I'll trade some stock castings for some 110 heads if anyone has a bike with a 110 and wants to use stock heads.  ;)

Torque Inc. likes the stockers over the 110's.

Not exactly

What I've said.... Is I prefer a ported/modified 06 casting over a 110/mva head for most 110-113" builds..... And I'm sticking with it

joe_lyons

Powerhouse Cycle & Dyno - Performance is our passion 816-425-4901

prodrag1320

We like 110 heads for 124"s here

sfmichael

I'd like to do this on a newer CVO. I'll see if the customer is game. He's running a TMan 625. Probably would need to get the heads down to 90cc range?
Colorado Springs, CO.

No Cents

Quote from: BVHOG on January 17, 2016, 02:22:26 PM
So now they are going to put a 117 on a set of stock wheels and rods :down:

    :agree: ...with Bob!  :up:
the MoCo will be finding the weak link when this combo is installed on a stock factory 4 3/8" stroke bottom end.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

1FSTRK

Time for the winter crankshaft go round.
I thought this would be more about those thin liners again.  :wink:
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

No Cents

  I think the weakness of the tapered rods ends will show their ugly face if someone takes one of these 117 kits and steps the compression up and runs a little more radical cam trying to make some serious power...but I could be totally off track feeling this way.
I just don't care for bumping the power up too much on a stock bottom end. I've seen them fail too many times in the past.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

1FSTRK

I will wait for these to get a season of customer feed back but I am thinking of talking to Vic to see what he would do for my heads on the softail if I went with a set of these. I could just pull the 110" barrels and swap these under the same heads with a good tune to see what happens as a 117". It would give me the compression bump I always wanted.
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

Hilly13

I look at it like this, there are a lot of 103's-107's running around on stock cranks making bigger numbers and CCP's than what this kit will produce, more under the curve is what I'm looking at.
Just because its said don't make it so

harleytuner

Quote from: No Cents on January 17, 2016, 05:17:37 PM
  I think the weakness of the tapered rods ends will show their ugly face if someone takes one of these 117 kits and steps the compression up and runs a little more radical cam trying to make some serious power...but I could be totally off track feeling this way.
I just don't care for bumping the power up too much on a stock bottom end. I've seen them fail too many times in the past.

Ray

All's they care about is it holding up to the kit. The sheet they are advertising for this kit shows a tad over 110hp and a tad under 120trq, and we all know HD exaggerates the sheet.  With that said we are getting more than that out of a healthy 107 on stock bottoms without major failures being common.  If someone wants to take this 117 kit too the next level and leave the bottom stock I'd say that's on them.  Any one wanting to do a high effort 117 probably wouldn't go this route anyway, at least I wouldn't.


ultraswede

Whats a typical cost (in the US) for having the cases cut to fit bigger cylinders, just the machining?

strokerjlk

Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 17, 2016, 05:12:01 PM
Time for the winter crankshaft go round.
I thought this would be more about those thin liners again.  :wink:
Well of course . Ya got to get the price of the build up somehow . Especially if your using SE parts . Not much mark up there .

A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

1FSTRK

Looks like FSG isn't the only one with access to fancy drawings at a moments notice.
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

Tattoo

Quote from: No Cents on January 17, 2016, 05:17:37 PM
I just don't care for bumping the power up too much on a stock bottom end. I've seen them fail too many times in the past.

Ray

Ray how many lower ends have you seen go bad and what was the failure? 
"You can have anything you want
But you better not take it from me"

1FSTRK

Wes from what I have seen it is a crap shoot depending on the year of the crank and your luck. My 2007 SE 110 kit crank moved and had to be rebuild. Jim hammers his stock 96" crank and has been very,VERY lucky. With the big power 103's, and the new drop-in 110's i can see taking the chance because there is no other reason to go into the bottom so you can just cross that bridge if you need to later. This 117" in a 103/96 like you are doing with the S&S crank is the the one that brings the crank question to the forefront. If you split the cases to bore them, do you bolt it back together with the stock untouched crank or do you have the crank sent out or even replaced with a new one. 
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

prodrag1320

Quote from: ultraswede on January 17, 2016, 11:34:25 PM
Whats a typical cost (in the US) for having the cases cut to fit bigger cylinders, just the machining?


175.00 here

ultraswede

Thanks  :up:

Just wanted to set the SE bare cases in perspective, allready bored for the 110 CVO cyl.
Once again, the shipping does funny things to the business case of building a motor with US components / service providers.

Deye76

"And I'm sticking with it"

It wasn't derogatory. Thought I was sending Joe your way.  :nix:
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

BVHOG

Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 18, 2016, 04:28:58 AM
Wes from what I have seen it is a crap shoot depending on the year of the crank and your luck. My 2007 SE 110 kit crank moved and had to be rebuild. Jim hammers his stock 96" crank and has been very,VERY lucky. With the big power 103's, and the new drop-in 110's i can see taking the chance because there is no other reason to go into the bottom so you can just cross that bridge if you need to later. This 117" in a 103/96 like you are doing with the S&S crank is the the one that brings the crank question to the forefront. If you split the cases to bore them, do you bolt it back together with the stock untouched crank or do you have the crank sent out or even replaced with a new one.
The reality is that most of the cranks are holding up pretty well but do you want to be the one to put that top end on, have the crank fail and then the entire build is your baby. As far as reworking a crank it has came to the point where it's more cost effective to just replace with the S&S unit and it's one year warranty on cranks.
You can agree or disagree all you want but at 117 inches the bottom end needs to be addressed IMHO. If you think the crank problems have came and gone then guess again. This isn't a "well mine is holding up well" deal, this is me seeing more bad cranks in this small shop for me to comfortably  take a chance of a stock crank holding up to 117 cubic inches.  Has anyone actually did a price breakdown of the difference of just doing the "drop on" kit as opposed to boring cases and updating the bottom end and using a cast lined cylinder like S&S or Delkron? 
1FSTRK poses a good question, would anyone split the cases for a case bore and proven cylinders and then put the stock crank back in? probably not so why the hell would you do it with the drop ons?
If you don't have a sense of humor you probably have no sense at all.

strokerjlk

Split the cases for new bearings. Didn't weld the crank .
Didn't do a Timkem conversion either .
A scientific theory summarizes a hypothesis
repeated testing establishes theory

HD/Wrench

cost Bob Cost  you take it apart bolt the new cylinder kit on and in less than one day you have a 117 . RIGHT OR WRONG  that is what IS going to happen. Maybe it will make HD looking into building a stronger crank  :hyst: :hyst:

BVHOG

Quote from: strokerjlk on January 18, 2016, 06:54:54 AM
Split the cases for new bearings. Didn't weld the crank .
Didn't do a Timkem conversion either .
So are you going to do that for a customer that comes along and expects warranty?
Pretty simple Steve, there is a right way and a wrong way and a competent engine builder knows which is which.
If you don't have a sense of humor you probably have no sense at all.