When to change brake fluid...

[Justpassingas]

My 09 SG with 66K is going in for a new rear tire and while its there I usually have my indy check/replace pads & rotor if needed. I'm thinking of having him flush and replace brake fluid while he's there....My brakes are fine and never had any problems, I just like having my brakes looked at when I do tire changes...Good idea or a bad idea???...Does brake fluid wear out and should it be changed at some point in time??? TIA

[tomcat64]

NOW! we do it at 20k..

[PoorUB]

I flush it every other winter, or about 25,000 miles.

[Justpassingas]

well I guess that answers my question.....thanx guys

[rbabos]

About 2 years as a general guideline. Hydro clutches could use it a bit sooner as they see more action. Unless you have one of the infamous leaking master cyl covers, moisture cannot be induced into the fluid but over time, neoprene residue from the seals moving or from the hoses can occupy some of the space of the fluid. This adds a hair more compressability to the fluid volume that detracts from it being as solid. This translates into a more mushy leaver or in the case of the hydro clutch, less seperation at the plates.
Ron

[N-gin]

I my understanding brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. This is for dot 3-4, NOT dot 5

[fourthgear]

I my understanding brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. This is for dot 3-4, NOT dot 5

How does it do that in a sealed system  Unless its not sealed & that would show up as a leak & you would have issues & be adding new fluid , would you not ?
If your talking about condensation forming in the system , it was not filled properly to begin with .

[rich1]

I change mine every other year. It only takes about 30 minutes from start to finish and cost about 5 bucks for the fluid. My guess is you will be shocked at how bad your brake fluid looks after this much time.

[Panzer]

Do you same people drain and replenish your cages?
I've never heard anyone who owned a cage of saying I replaced my break fluid. 

[tstroud]

Yes, cars and bikes. Whenever it starts getting dark.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[92flhtcu]

every two years, cars, bikes. been in the owners manuals for oh, last 30 yrs or so.....

[black]

 

Do you same people drain and replenish your cages?
I've never heard anyone who owned a cage of saying I replaced my break fluid. 

Good point 

[PoorUB]

Do you same people drain and replenish your cages?
I've never heard anyone who owned a cage of saying I replaced my break fluid. 

Yep, every two- three years  for the cage too.

[rich1]

Do you same people drain and replenish your cages?
I've never heard anyone who owned a cage of saying I replaced my break fluid. 

Absolutely. It is a maintenance item and brakes are one thing I will not neglect.

[rich1]

By the way. Harley manual says change brake fluid every 2 years. My cars manual say replace every 30 months.

[Snuff™]

   OOH..NOOOO... I got vintage brake fluid in my cages and bikes!

[fourthgear]

   I will not deny that it needs to be changed because of working the Fluid ( Compression creating Heat & breaking down  ), just like your fork Fluid or any other oil, but I just don't buy , because of Moisture .

[Panzer]

So, you're saying on the cage you're bleeding all four wheels, like every two years or sooner? 

[truck]

Do you same people drain and replenish your cages?
I've never heard anyone who owned a cage of saying I replaced my break fluid. 

I change the brake fluid in the cage when I think it's been in long enough. I learned about moisture in the fluid when a piston froze up and I didn't have any brake on that wheel.

[PoorUB]

So, you're saying on the cage you're bleeding all four wheels, like every two years or sooner? 

Yep, or at least for me it is 2-3 years. I suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and clean the master well. Then I fill it and bleed all four wheels until fresh fluid comes out. Do the same on my motorcycle. I have not rebuilt a wheel cylinder or caliper in years and I drive old crap. I had a car with 265,000 miles with all the original brake components on it, other that pads, rotors and drums. Keep fresh fluid in and moisture out.

[Ironpig9]

Dot 5 comes a purple-ish color out of the bottle. When it turns amber or brownish it's done so change it. You might want to invest in a bleeder bolt/valve with a check valve in it (available at NAPA / 3-8 with 24 threads) so you can bleed the brakes by yourself. Just put on a clear section of hose over the bleeder valve nipple, crack the valve open and start pumping. Brake fluid will travel down the hose into a jar but not let air back into the system (check valve). Keep adding fresh fluid to the master cyl. as you go and when all you get is purple brake fluid, top off the master cyl. and button it up. Oh, and tighten the bleeder valve back up. Rubbing alcohol will clean up any spilled brake fluid (very bad for your paint so exercise a bit of caution).

[truck]

DOT 5 won't hurt the paint like other number fluids.

[flh canuck]

Brakes on the older machines were pretty simple. Master cylinder, a bit of brake line and then calipers. Not too much to go wrong, cheap to fix and so long as there were no leaks or fluid contamination, I never worried about flushing the brake fluid.

My newer 2013 Road King on the other hand, has the fancy shmancy anti-lock brakes with a whole lot more expensive little bits and pieces introduced to the mix. I think regular flushing of the brake system on these newer bikes with anti-lock brakes is probably a good idea and cheap insurance in the long run.