Head bolt torque question

[midwestcowboy]

 Good Afternoon;
                         Thank God y-all are here. First a little history of my bike.. I bought a 92' heritage softail that had been sitting for years. I've got alot of experience with Knucks,Pans, and early Shovels, but figured I'd let a shop freshen up the EVO. The Harley dealership recommended a shop that specializes in "older models". The drive train was pulled, and tranny and top end rebuilt, along with a general look over....I'm starting to have my doubts as to the quality of the work. I'm finding alot of things that should have been squared away but wasn't.....Now that that's off my chest.
                        I was going around the other day tightening bolts and found that #1 bolt on the front jug was borderline finger tight,i went ahead and snugged it down. the other 3 bolts that I could get to from the primary side were of various degrees of tightness... snugged them up too... Not a double grunt like you'd do on a pan, but I snugged them.  Gotta admit I'm concerned.
                         How should I proceed? Pull the starboard tank so as to get the to the other head bolts, and re-torque to specs?
                         I've been logging alot of miles since I got it back, Treated the motor like a new one ( oil changes @ 500 mi, and broke it in gently.
                         I really appreciate the time you guys put in, and the sound advice given. 
 
                     
                             

[BKACHE]

Re-torque to spec is going to be troubling. The process (get a shop manual for the specifics) is 8lbs - then 13lbs - 18lb  - then a 90degree turn. (I am just guessing now at the foot-lbs I do not have the manual with me) I think the final torque is close to 42lbs.
These 'crushable-evo-head-gaskets' are not for multiple use.
So are you thinking to do the final 42lbs on all 4 or both 8?
You will always worry if you don't do it for yourself. I would think the peace of mind would be worth the few hours and $60 gasket kit. So if you re-gasket it, do you disturb the base gasket or replace it too?
I would do them all.  Longer trips would be problematic to have one start leaking.

[rageglide]

If you have a finger tight head bolt, you've probably got a pulled stud.  Of course "finger tight" is subjective, but if you can turn the head bolt with little to no effort, it's not a good sign.

As BK said, on an Evo you need to perform the entire torque sequence again.  (10-20-30-42 or use factory method)  You probably could get away with not replacing the head gasket IF you don't disturb it.   If any of the headbolts won't take 20-30 lbs of torque, the stud is pulling. 

[midwestcowboy]

       Thanks..... ought to have stayed riding horses. I don't think there's a pulled stud as it felt pretty solid when I tightened it. I've got a shop manual and understand the torque values and sequence.... Not really sure whats the drill for doing the job with the engine in the frame... If that could be explained I'd be obliged. I will re-torque all head bolts to specs, and hope for the best. Any other thoughts would be appreciated...Happy Trails   

[Poppajon75]

I hope the best for those head bolts. As rageglide mentioned a loose head bolt on an Evo can be a problem. When I rebuilt mine earlier this year I was puckered so tight when I went to do the final step on the sequence I had to remember to breathe.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

[98fxstc]

Do it with the engine cold
10-20-30-42 like Rageglide said
easier to remember than 9 -18-30-42
the Cometic method
rather than the factory method
if you can't get it you are starting again and replacing a stud(s)
and even if you do get them
it may not hold
Good Luck 

[Burnout]

I would not simply retorque the heads if it has been run.

the gasket seal is more than likely compromised.

Upper motor mount should be loosened before retorquing.
If it has adjustable pushrods they would need to be readjusted after heads torqued.

Intake seal may also be compromised....

[rageglide]

If a stud is pulled, it is possible to repair the threads with the engine in the frame.  Softail frame provides good access.  We've used timeserts with great success.  You'll want a drill guide (block of steel or alumimum) to make sure the over sized hole is straight.  Timesert kits include bit, tap and installer.  Grease on the drill and tap will help keep chips out of the cases.  A shop vac is helpful too.

It's very unusual for the head bolt to loosen up.  When head bolts are properly torqued the stud is stretched and will mechanically resist loosening. 

[JW113]

If I were a betting man, I would bet a nickle that you do indeed have a pulled stud. My '91 pulled at least half of them out, probably more. The interference thread design on those early EVOs sucks. What usually is the case, when the motor is taken apart for the first time, the nut is stuck on the stud, and when you crack it loose, it takes out the threads in the case. It might "feel" tight, and might even take torque, but after the motor goes throug a few heat cycles and cylinder/head expands, the head nut will be loose again. The first time it happened to me I was in denial like everybody, and just tighted it up again. Of course it did not last. If you are planning to take the thing very far from home, highly advise biting the bullet and pull the heads and check. Most obvious sign is that they are not the correct installed height from the deck surface of the case. The other way to check is use a head nut with a 1/4" ball bearing in it, spin on the stud, and torque to factory spec. A pulled stud will start to turn and keep turning....

-JW