'17s.... no KLANK??

[glens]

All one has to do is pull in the clutch, start the engine, back the bike up three or four feet, and "snick" it right, quietly, into first...

[FLHRI_2004]

Yes, if you have the time, pull in the clutch and wait for about 30 seconds give or take, and then put it into first gear.  It'll snik right in without a clunk every time as long as the rotating bits in the trans have stopped rotating.

[Hossamania]

Yes, if you have the time, pull in the clutch and wait for about 30 seconds give or take, and then put it into first gear.  It'll snik right in without a clunk every time as long as the rotating bits in the trans have stopped rotating.

I've got better things to do than hold my clutch handle in for 30 seconds. Start motor, warm up for 20-30 seconds, pull clutch for two seconds, slight "blip" of throttle, bang that thing into gear. Ride.

[06roadglide]

Couldn't someone just design a clutch brake like the big trucks use?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[motorhogman]

Yes, if you have the time, pull in the clutch and wait for about 30 seconds give or take, and then put it into first gear.  It'll snik right in without a clunk every time as long as the rotating bits in the trans have stopped rotating.

That's what mine does when cold.. Never feel it go in at all. When at operating temp it clanks no matter how long I hold the clutch lever in.

Maybe time to back the adjuster screw out another 1/4 turn. Had it set at 1/2 turn out.

[DeneFLHR]

My bike as well as my friends '13 CVO both have zero hint that they went into first at a stoplight. Do it rather slow and don't force it and it is butter. Nothing new.

[BUBBIE]

Not wanting to debate this please....

All this talk about the clutch/tranny KLANK...... Here is Mine....

I have found that I NEED to keep my clutch handle/cable adjustment at the ferrule very close to "0" most 1/16 MAX free play.
Anything more and a Hard to use problem exist.

This is on my 09 King with 124,300 on it. Cable is not worn out from looking n feel. It has been this way since new and I have kept this tight adjustment from new... (since 103 build I do use a SE spring)

I have experimented with that setting from the clutch to the cable and found out:

IF i could get about an 1/8 inch More pull at that clutch handle, Contrary to many I have explained My Bike on this before, On First squeeze it is loose on the clutches and never a Bang into gear... This is from Cold & waiting a count of 5 seconds and when Hot, count of 5 again... little bump maybe but 90% not...

Many will argue that there is only so much pull on that cable to the Ramps (I agree) BUT mine improves Tremendously being almost "0" at that cable and I use a 1/2 turn free play out on adjustment on the plates...

Mind you, I am just saying what I have found out about MY Bike... I have even set a -"0" to just try for More Squeeze and believe me NEVER a Klank as using the Proper adjustment... Not much (A - 1/8" max) but probably spinning the clutch throwout bearings (not a good thing)

This adjustment was Just done to see how mine would work with a little more throw... AND it would...

IF Thinking BUBBIE must use them thar frilly do-dads taking up handle to bar space.....No, I Use No Frilly stops-get in the way- do-daddys on my handle grips... So I just plain need a little more Squeeze to get that "No Klank" totally...

I do not get much Klunk keeping a tight setting now at the ferrule and have and do keep it that way... (1/16 max)

Just My take here on My 09 King... Nothing worn out in this many miles so I'll keep it that way... 

Now as for the 17's... This type of adjustment I use on my 09,  might do a world of good there too...
Hydraulic Clutch? more Piston Volume for Movement there,  might be needed to fully Move the clutch plates OUT to Lessen the Klunk... Think?

signed....BUBBIE

added: I must need More Squeeze to Fully move the rams UP/Out to Full Position, moving out the clutch plates...

[Rockout Rocker Products]

You need to come over & adjust the clutch on my '15 Limited

[klammer76]

Those of us who have owned shovels get nostalgic when we hear a klunk going in to gear..

Never has bothered me either, was always part of it 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Maybe Bubbie's onto something....

Every rider report I've seen so far says the clutch engages all the way out at the end of the lever travel. Maybe they've changed the actuator/master/slave cylinder..... something..... to get more throw in the clutch assembly? More throw = more space between the disks.... less drag = less klank.

[BUBBIE]

Clutches have been a Pet Peeve for me on Many Bikes... Usually engineered (I blame Them) to JUST do the job and No extra... I would like the clutch plates to Dis-engage better (more) than I have found on my rides... Tight adjustment for separation needed for me... 

IF you want, you can always shift n Not pull in the clutch totally or if any at all, just let off the throttle and Jam it into next gear... Throttle control is the Trick... BUT not on My Bike...   

signed....BUBBIE

[rbabos]

Maybe Bubbie's onto something....

Every rider report I've seen so far says the clutch engages all the way out at the end of the lever travel. Maybe they've changed the actuator/master/slave cylinder..... something..... to get more throw in the clutch assembly? More throw = more space between the disks.... less drag = less klank.

Pretty much all hydro clutches work that way with end of lever engagement. I'd be looking at possible air in the system and a good bleed if not. Another issue is fluid gets contaminated over time and offers less disengagement. Soft lines to slave, another detractor for full plate separation. Now, I don't know if they did this or not but with slip assist, pressure on lever is reduced so a hair larger master piston could be used. This increases slave travel.

Ron

[Xyzzy]

There is no clunk on my '17 SGS going into first gear. I wish there was just a little feedback that the bike has gone into gear, because without any feedback I wonder if it has actually shifted. I'm sure I will get used to it.

The clutch pull is very light and the friction zone is a bit father out than I am used to. One weird thing is if I am coasting to a stop with the clutch pulled in and I downshift (while coasting) I can feel a very slight blip/pulse in the clutch lever. I don't know why it does that. Hopefully it is no big deal.

[04 SE Deuce]

I personally like a clutch that releases clean or engages from mid-stroke > out.  To me it's a sign of straight/true plates.

Clutches have been a Pet Peeve for me on Many Bikes... Usually engineered (I blame Them) to JUST do the job and No extra... I would like the clutch plates to Dis-engage better (more) than I have found on my rides... Tight adjustment for separation needed for me... 

IF you want, you can always shift n Not pull in the clutch totally or if any at all, just let off the throttle and Jam it into next gear... Throttle control is the Trick... BUT not on My Bike...   

signed....BUBBIE

Bubblie,  if you don't already you might try loading the shifter slightly prior to shift and timing the shift nudge on the early side just as the clutch starts to release.  When I'm paying attention I do just this with a 2 finger abbreviated clutch lever pull...smooth/quiet as it gets on my softail.  Dyna doesn't need that much finesse.

[PoorUB]

I know on my '16 it rarely klanks into gear, like my '05 and '10 did. The only real change I see is the hydro clutch. I was thinking it might give a bit more travel to allow more plate clearance.

On the other hand I was sitting next to a Yamaha V-Star at a stop light and when he dropped in back into first I had to look because I did not think it was a HD, but it klanked into gear like one!

[76shuvlinoff]

If the Klank really bugs you, you could always put it in gear pull in the clutch then start it.

[Hossamania]

I do not like starting it in gear. It puts such a drag on the starter, and I can feel the bike jump forward a bit, especially when cold.
I just take ownership of the clank and bang that baby into gear and revel in the noise. Look out, coming through!
Even the BMW I was on clanked in first, second and third. I asked about it, Bjorn said that is typical BMW.

[BUBBIE]

 

I asked about it, Bjorn said that is typical BMW.




They ALL Do It over there TOO... 

signed.... BUBBIE

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Another common trait reported by almost all test riders is that you can feel each shift through the clutch lever. I'm really starting to think the klank free shifting is in the clutch actuation system somewhere, gonna start checking into part number differences etc. I know the clutch assembly itself has a different #.

[Durwood]

Another common trait reported by almost all test riders is that you can feel each shift through the clutch lever. I'm really starting to think the klank free shifting is in the clutch actuation system somewhere, gonna start checking into part number differences etc. I know the clutch assembly itself has a different #.

John, they are using a different manufacturer for the hydraulic part of the clutch in 2017 M.Y.

My local dealer said they were experiencing a large number of warranty repairs due to the old mfg/supplier.

[rbabos]

Another common trait reported by almost all test riders is that you can feel each shift through the clutch lever. I'm really starting to think the klank free shifting is in the clutch actuation system somewhere, gonna start checking into part number differences etc. I know the clutch assembly itself has a different #.

Normal. Slip assist when the ramps lock up, tend to slam the lever out and your fingers.
Bascially no point looking for a problem that doesn't exist. If you want to see this effect in all it's glory try launching in second gear as I've done a few times in the vrod. The lever actually chatters as the ramping goes in and out of tension from the motor pulses or as in the vrod case with shorter stroke the lever buzzes. I think the slip assist itself is way superior but it has this trait but one adapts in time and is barely ever noticed after that.
Ron

[04efidynasuperglide]

I've got only 100 miles on the 17 RGS so far and no klank and no real issue with clutch lever, I used to ride 04 dyna, bike is strong , bike was set up with stage one with black street cannon exhaust and heavy breather ,  the black looks good next to the olive

sgs

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Another common trait reported by almost all test riders is that you can feel each shift through the clutch lever. I'm really starting to think the klank free shifting is in the clutch actuation system somewhere, gonna start checking into part number differences etc. I know the clutch assembly itself has a different #.

John, they are using a different manufacturer for the hydraulic part of the clutch in 2017 M.Y.

My local dealer said they were experiencing a large number of warranty repairs due to the old mfg/supplier.

Good to know, thanks.

[Xyzzy]

One weird thing is if I am coasting to a stop with the clutch pulled in and I downshift (while coasting) I can feel a very slight blip/pulse in the clutch lever. I don't know why it does that. Hopefully it is no big deal.

Another common trait reported by almost all test riders is that you can feel each shift through the clutch lever.

Normal. Slip assist when the ramps lock up, tend to slam the lever out and your fingers.
Bascially no point looking for a problem that doesn't exist. If you want to see this effect in all it's glory try launching in second gear as I've done a few times in the vrod. The lever actually chatters as the ramping goes in and out of tension from the motor pulses or as in the vrod case with shorter stroke the lever buzzes. I think the slip assist itself is way superior but it has this trait but one adapts in time and is barely ever noticed after that.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Another common trait reported by almost all test riders is that you can feel each shift through the clutch lever. I'm really starting to think the klank free shifting is in the clutch actuation system somewhere, gonna start checking into part number differences etc. I know the clutch assembly itself has a different #.

Normal. Slip assist when the ramps lock up, tend to slam the lever out and your fingers.
Bascially no point looking for a problem that doesn't exist. If you want to see this effect in all it's glory try launching in second gear as I've done a few times in the vrod. The lever actually chatters as the ramping goes in and out of tension from the motor pulses or as in the vrod case with shorter stroke the lever buzzes. I think the slip assist itself is way superior but it has this trait but one adapts in time and is barely ever noticed after that.
Ron

My '15 Limited Low has the same clutch & I have no such feedback in the lever.

One interesting note...

Way back when I bought my bike it had a serious KLANK issue, I mean way louder than most. I suspected then that clutch travel might be an issue, & wondered if maybe there was some air in the lines. When new it had a wonderful progressive feel at the lever, engaged over a wide range of travel. So of course I ruined it lol. I bled the clutch line, & the engagement moved to all the way out at the end of the lever travel. I checked the clutch throw & don't remember gaining much.... maybe .010 I think. As I recall it was about .065 or so.

I'd be very curious to see what the travel on the 17's is. Very easy to check with the derby cover off..... anyone??