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Andrews cam 21 vs 26

Started by renegade, April 17, 2009, 07:17:46 AM

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Ken R

I could tell no difference in engine/exhaust pipe heat between stock and my Andrews 21N cams.  I'm in Dallas.  Ride when it's 100+ at times.


Quote from: MiracleMax on January 09, 2010, 09:16:40 AM
After reading this entire thread I'm leaning slightly to the 21's. My question is about heat. Somewhere in the middle of the thread heat was mentioned, but without too much detail. When I got my 02 FLTRI, I noticed it ran much hotter than than my old EG. Even on summer days of only 75 or 80 degrees, the heat cooked my legs at stop lights.  So... I put on rinehart True Duals, K&N, and TMAT. Still cooks me.
I understand the 26's run cooler than the 21's, but how will the 21's compare to stock?

cig

If I was haveing head work done, I would use the 26's. Stock heads , 21's.
cig 
Alton, Illinois

sinktip

Weighing back in after I had my work done. Ended up going with the the 26s with the conversion to the hydraulic tensioners after the run-out was too great to go with gear driven. A little disapointed but confident that these are still far better than the old spring tensioners. Had the heads rebuilt and as stated above, big bore 95 kit. I'm not done breaking it in but so far nothing but smiles. The sound is a touch louder  :teeth: and the idle has a bit more lope to it. Rather than pull you off the back of the bike fast, it seems to just have an incredible smoothness to it. 55 to 70 is smooth and deceptively quick. Before the bike would feel like it was working and take 5-6 seconds to accelerate between those two speeds in 5th (3.37 gearing). Now it just glides right up there in 3-4 seconds. Looking forward to getting it out onto the highway where I can open it up a bit and see how it pulls it different situations.

FLTRI

Quote from: sinktip on February 21, 2010, 09:47:00 AM
Weighing back in after I had my work done. Ended up going with the the 26s with the conversion to the hydraulic tensioners after the run-out was too great to go with gear driven. A little disapointed but confident that these are still far better than the old spring tensioners. Had the heads rebuilt and as stated above, big bore 95 kit. I'm not done breaking it in but so far nothing but smiles. The sound is a touch louder  :teeth: and the idle has a bit more lope to it. Rather than pull you off the back of the bike fast, it seems to just have an incredible smoothness to it. 55 to 70 is smooth and deceptively quick. Before the bike would feel like it was working and take 5-6 seconds to accelerate between those two speeds in 5th (3.37 gearing). Now it just glides right up there in 3-4 seconds. Looking forward to getting it out onto the highway where I can open it up a bit and see how it pulls it different situations.
Have you had it tuned yet, or are you running a canned map?
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

sinktip

No, no tune until after 1000 miles. Right now I'm running a map from a bike that is almost identical although running Screaming Eagle cams.

FLTRI

Quote from: sinktip on February 21, 2010, 11:28:19 AM
No, no tune until after 1000 miles. Right now I'm running a map from a bike that is almost identical although running Screaming Eagle cams.
The 2 biggest contributors to mapping fuel requirements are cam profile and exhaust. As long as those 2 are the same the mapping may be close, but no guaranty since other variables such as porting and intake also play a part.

A lot of folks think if their build is close to what a map is made for it will be "close enough". If you start using oil prematurely or notice hot running, there can be damage done @ the most critical point in time for the engine, during high friction/heat break-in.

There is a myth that any "close looking" map will work for break-in as long as the rider is easy on the engine. Worked for carbed engines, but not for EFI, since mapping dictates the fuel and timing, a lean spot in the wrong place or too much timing under load, will for sure do damage, especially under hot ambients.
Just my experience,
Bob
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

MHenriques

Hello guys

I´m considering the same Andrews 21 x 26 cam options for my HD Softail Heritage 2008 96ci. The last recommendation I got from Andrews is to install the 26 cam and change the gear ratio using a 30 tooth power pulley. Any coments?

Mauricio

JohnCA58

You cant go wrong with that combination.   :up:
YOLO

BlueThunder

Quote from: JohnCA58 on August 30, 2010, 05:44:57 PM
You cant go wrong with that combination.   :up:

That would be a nice boost in power.

04Glider2

AFter a lot of thought and research here and there, I went with the 21's on my 04 RG wanted the 26's but the advise I got was find the cam you want and buy the next lower one, thanks FLTRI (Bob)
Got the hydraulic conversion kit for HERKO, came with everything you need and all HD Parts needed, no running out to get anything. Give him a call he is super helpful, he sent the locktite and the Cracker Jacks.
Went from Stage One with 73HP and 78 Torque  and now at 85HP and 88 Torque.
At 70 MPH and 3000 RPM a twist of the grip feels like 4th gear used to feel.
Bike is super responsive from low rpm's and runs good out the top end as well.
First ride after the work was loaded to the max and touring the Sierra Nev MTS was very impressed.

Check my dyno sheets here:

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,29608.0.html
                       

Hillside Motorcycle

Quote from: Deweysheads on April 19, 2009, 07:54:27 AM
I too like the 26. Versatile. Works in a stock 88 and much better in a 95" with head work and added compression. Sure wish Andrews would increase the lift.

Throw a set of the S/E 1.725 rockers at it. :wink:
Scott
Otto Knowbetter sez, "Even a fish wouldn't get caught if he kept his mouth shut"

JohnCA58


Throw a set of the S/E 1.725 rockers at it.
Scott



I did,  and it pulls hard from 2500 to 5800. 
YOLO

MHenriques

After reading a lot, I´m really leaning towards Andrews 21 chain cams. The package I´m considering is:

  • 216321 - Andrews TW21 Chain Drive Cams
  • 17045-99D - HD Cam Installation Kit
  • 24018-10 - Screamin' Eagle® High Performance Inner Cam Bearings
  • 18404-08 - Screamin' Eagle® Premium Tapered Quick-Install Adjustable Pushrods
  • Roller-X Lifters

MH

PanHeadRed

>Any coments?<

Yep, I'd consider targeting the push rod and lifter money towards a big bore kit, and then pick a stock base circle cam a bit more suited for a 103"....something between 235 - 245 intake duration.

RugerSAfan

Old Old Thread....

Running stock 88 '01 Heritage w/ SE air cleaner and V&H Longshots.  Foot clutch and Jockey Shift.

Considering either an Andrews cam 21 or 26 as listed in subject title.

I was leaning towards the 21, but called Andrews as several suggested.  The gentleman I spoke to recommended the 26 based on the bike I rode and type of riding (not real fast).  He said he would recommend the 21 if I had an Ultra with mostly two-up riding, but since my bike is smaller with both solo and two-up longer trips, the 26.  The gentleman also stated that I would unlikely notice the difference between either one.

Posted here in case others running a similar setup were researching...

KumaRide

Installed 21's a few years back on my 88" fatboy. Made a little bump in performance. Had 2n2 VH staggered at that time. Replaced them with a 2n1 shortly after 21 install, and that helped much much more. From my experience, dump the 2n2 pipes, get 2n1, if you seriously want something out of that lil 88". And, with those 2n2s and 26's, you will get less bottom end then with 21's.

wolf_59

you might consider the S&S 509 cams check the dyno section

86fxwg

Quote from: wolf_59 on March 29, 2016, 04:04:28 AM
you might consider the S&S 509 cams check the dyno section

:up:

86
86fxwg 06flhx 10flhx

Karl H.

Dyna 2003 TC88: The Andrews 21 gave me a rock solid low idle and some kick backs at hot engine starts. The better low end torque could barely be felt due to the relatively low weight of my bike with rider. No significant difference above 2000 rpm. I would recommend the 26 for your bike!

Karl
Dyna Wide Glide '03, Softail Deluxe '13, Street Glide '14, Sportster 883R '15

Matt C

Quote from: Karl H. on March 29, 2016, 04:20:41 AM
Dyna 2003 TC88: The Andrews 21 gave me a rock solid low idle and some kick backs at hot engine starts. The better low end torque could barely be felt due to the relatively low weight of my bike with rider. No significant difference above 2000 rpm. I would recommend the 26 for your bike!

Karl

37's with a compression bump work pretty well too.

Jaycee1964

If you have to stop and think about if it is right or wrong, Assume it is wrong.

86fxwg

Quote from: MCE on March 29, 2016, 06:40:50 AM
Quote from: Karl H. on March 29, 2016, 04:20:41 AM
Dyna 2003 TC88: The Andrews 21 gave me a rock solid low idle and some kick backs at hot engine starts. The better low end torque could barely be felt due to the relatively low weight of my bike with rider. No significant difference above 2000 rpm. I would recommend the 26 for your bike!

Karl

37's with a compression bump work pretty well too.
:up:  just did a 37 with TRQ pimps head's,81cc / flat tops,95" c/V carb flat out pulls a 26. Both RK's.
Other than the 570's I do the 37 is a good bang for the buck. Probably use it in my 95.

86
86fxwg 06flhx 10flhx

KumaRide

Quote from: Karl H. on March 29, 2016, 04:20:41 AM


... and some kick backs at hot engine starts....

Karl

Happened a few times on my bike as well until I made it a point to always start in neutral. Never happened since.