Old S&S Super E still fouling plugs question,

[pred]

OK,
So I get about 100 miles out of my 84 Shovel FLH. before I get misfiring and spitting, The plugs are dry carbon fouled,
Initially I turned off the Accelerator pump and checked the low volume jot which is a 295 and high speed is a 72,
It used the be the front plug fouling first, Not both foul evenly,
~ ~
Heres what I know,
Looks like about 24K on engine,
Looks like rear piston replaced at about 8K miles and in 1992,
Looks like S&S Super E was installed in 1996.
~ ~
Im wondering is some bubba got into the carb sometime in the past, Like cleaning jets with a stainless steel probe like I use for oil burner jets in an emergency,
~ ~
I realized earlier today I had an S&S Super E I bought years ago and never used, Its is a used carb and today I pulled it apart and its silly clean inside and out,
Im going to toss a full rebuild kit in it next week,
Today I soaked it in Berrymans and blew everything out just to ensure its as clean as it looked,
~ ~
Do you think I should just go ahead and start with the 295/72 as suggested by S&S and hope that it will be fine?
If I take bike to work its a sucky stop and go drive, 4.7 miles taking 15 to 20 min,
Seems like this fouls out plugs FAST, BUT BUT I remember the local Philadelphia PD driving shovels and I bet they didn't need new plugs every 2 to 3 days,, So in reality I think that a shovel should be fine with the occasional "Potty mouth"ty commute and somehow I think I may be missing something, BUT WHAT ?
Sincerely
Peter B

[Hossamania]

Is your ignition in good shape?
Can't help with jetting on your carb, but I would definitely try the new one.

[Hossamania]

Have you done a compression test and leak down test to check the health of your motor?

[harpwrench]

295 should be good, maybe the enrichener isn't seating well? I'd check out the ignition like hoss said.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pred]

New Dyna ignition and coil early this spring, Just 2 months before I bought the bike, Owner was a 65 yo guy saying its just getting too heavy for him, He was owner since about 1999.
   Ill do compression next week,
Bike runs and starts nice and easy, Always fires off nearly instantly cold and restarts pretty easy warm or hot,
Does need enricher when cold, 
   If someone in Phila wants to run it and tell me their thought, Im happy to meet you !
Im used to the 1203 in my 1999 Buell M2 Cyclone and the two engines are a LOT different,
   So hard for me to say whats 100% right "Feeling"
Ive had 2 iron head bikes in the past several years and this Shovel is more powerful across the board if that means anything,
     Is there a best way to set the Dyna mini switches?
Also I prefer points, It is worth going to OEM over the Dyna?
Sincerely
Peter B

[Hossamania]

The Dyna is a good ignition, no good reason to go back to points, would need a different coil besides. Can't help on switch settings, I'm sure Google is your friend there.

[76shuvlinoff]

The S&S Es run fat out of the box and as I recall 295 and 72 is how it comes from the factory. I don't think you'll even be close to lean on a stockish bike with those jets. I tried 2 Es but once I discovered the CV carbs I never went back.

I have a Dyna 2000i sparker from 03-04 on my 93" mill.  I feel the dip switch settings might give you a bit more or less responsiveness but are not going to excessively foul your plugs. Check your compression, turn the accel pump on that E off and ride it. In stop and go traffic you might be activating it too often especially if it is set too heavy.

Is the float set too high?

[david lee]

my problem was when i bolted on a s&s b not knowing it was of a bigger bore motor with bigger jets and was fouling plugs rejetted and runs perfect also check float level.ill be interested to know your outcome

[dsvracer]

good advice given above.  i would start off with a compression check. that will tell you the health of the motor. if compression is good i would take out the .295 jet and try a 28.  most of the time the carb is running on the idle air circuit and the intermediate jet, only goes onto the main jet at 3500 rpm or higher.   i would also check how the ignition is timed.  make sure the advance is working.  good luck.. dsv

[76shuvlinoff]

 from me:

I tried 2 Es but once I discovered the CV carbs I never went back.

Just to clarify,the Es I had were good carbs, hell they were considered the gold standard by many. Great WOT and I felt I got decent mpg out of them too. My plugs always ran a tad dark but that was really not a deal breaker.  It just seems to me the CVs have better overall manners. The CV 40 on my 93" ran well but I am no guru, it seemed to run out of poop at the top. The CV 44 I have now is a frog hair on the cold blooded side at initial start up but after that it's a riot. The problem for me is that I am not real smart, I changed the cam and the carb at the same time.

[pred]

So,
Please someone tell me more about the CV Carbs and if I were to order a 40mm one for my stock shovel, What exactly would I order?
I had one years ago on my Ironhead and it was easy to kick start and ralway ran great !

[dsvracer]

ebay is a good place to buy a cv carb,  or check to see if the local indy shop or the dealer has a take off. All the 40mm cv's are basically the same with some just jetted differently for the bike they were on.   it'll be a good upgrade when it is all said and done.  good luck.  dsv

[76shuvlinoff]

If you are going to go the CV route a 40mm is plenty for a stockish motor and can be made to run in a modified as well. Personally I say get one with an accelerator pump. The Holy Grail would be to find one that is bone stock and unmolested.  I have installed two CVs on my shovel , a 40 and a 44, both times I used the solid press-on adapter found on ebay. Kinda pricey for what it is but makes a nice rigid mount and no leaks. You still want to support it from the front head or the case bolt between the cyl bases. You might have to get tricky with the throttle cable. I installed a 96 and up throttle and cable.

I have always thought my 2 Es were better carbs @ WFO, my 2 CVs felt better everywhere else and not to damn shabby WFO either.

If your E has an adjustable air bleed it might just need a little educated love.

Mark

[pred]

No air bleed on my Super E,
I have the fresh rebuild ready to toss on the bike this weekend,
Ill check with my a local shop to seed if he ever comes across a "Take off" CV, Maybe by spring he will have a new one for me,, Seems like a new one is about $200 off the Bay, Would a new one make the most sense?
Ill have to wait a bit, But that seems more "Cost effective" than a used unit which may or may not have had work done,
I will have to say, That my 75 Ironhead did start and run nice and easy and was OK at WOT which I rarely use,
Ide be happy with something which runs the shovel nice and smooth throughout most of the range,
WOT I reserve for when Im on my 99 Buell.
Ill start searching
Thanks all !

[Ajayrk]

295 should be good, maybe the enrichener isn't seating well? I'd check out the ignition like hoss said.

Same problem, fouling the plugs in a short time.  Tab on enrichner handle too high and kept plunger off the seat.  Bent tab down enough that plunger had a little freeplay.

[pred]

Checked the enricher, All looks ok,
I have the clean carb, Intake and all bands and clams ready for install, Hopefully on sunday I will toss them in.
~ ~ ~
Im more used to small car engines and know a carb can turn a nightmare engine into a docile Pup,
Friends of none have spent so much time and money thinking its this or that, And its just a funky carb,
~ ~ ~ ~
I dug thru an old box-o-parts and dug out a Mikuni 38mm round slide carb,
Ill try the S&S and possibly the Mikuni,
But I think if the S&S does not ring out, Ill go for a new CV40 for the spring,

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Is this bikes charging system working correctly?
.295/.072 is the world-around standard for most Shovels, or at least a VERY strong baseline jetting.
Scott

[Burnout]

Engine idle speed and mixture setting will also have a large influence. 1/8 turn is a big change on S&S carb.

[PC_Hater]

No air bleed on my Super E,
I have the fresh rebuild ready to toss on the bike this weekend,
Ill check with my a local shop to seed if he ever comes across a "Take off" CV, Maybe by spring he will have a new one for me,, Seems like a new one is about $200 off the Bay, Would a new one make the most sense?
Ill have to wait a bit, But that seems more "Cost effective" than a used unit which may or may not have had work done,
I will have to say, That my 75 Ironhead did start and run nice and easy and was OK at WOT which I rarely use,
Ide be happy with something which runs the shovel nice and smooth throughout most of the range,
WOT I reserve for when Im on my 99 Buell.
Ill start searching
Thanks all !

Be careful, those new $200 CV40 carbs are NOT genuine Keihin CV40s. Hence the price.
They might be really good for all I know, just be aware what they really are.

I'll add that I asked one of the Indies near me about used CV40s, he said he had a big pile of worn out ones. Which surprised me.

[fzee]

I'M running a 26.5 at 4500 feet.  Runs perfect .

[Hillside Motorcycle]

What is the charging system producing at idle?, at 2200 rpms?

[Olwideglide]

 First off, I ain't no guru but, I got an '84 wide glide shovel, and been riding shovels for several years. That being said, I echo all above, but I had the same problem a few years ago when I took out the HD spark plugs and replaced with equivalent Champions. They started fouling same as yours. Changed to Automate 65s never a problem again.

[crock]

Was running a Hi R 4 ignition and would occasionally foul the plugs. No rhyme or reason. Ignition took a dump and went back to points and no more fouled plugs. Could have been the points or coil Don't hnow

[dablaze]

Look carefully at your plugs, make sure they are truly black and powdery. Your symptoms sound a bit like leaky guides, but the plugs will looks a bit more like burnt oil then.

Craig

[Hillside Motorcycle]

What is the charging system producing at idle?, at 2200 rpms?

??

[thumper 823]

The best tool and toy I have bought in a long time is the AFR gauge from  AEM.
This takes the guess work right out of the equastion.
I have it on my bike to keep an eye on things as I have it pretty modded .
B4 I used this i was really pulling my hair out with problems
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=aem+afr+gauge&atb=v22_d&ia=products&iai=B01G5Y9YEWhttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31AfqSBlLPL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31AfqSBlLPL._SL160_.jpg

[david lee]

a mate of mine had back in the early 70s a thing called colour tune which was a dummy spark plug where you could see in to the bore and from the colour of the spark would tell you if you were running lean or rich.does anyone remember that thanks all

[thumper 823]

I still have one !

[Burnout]

You must set the idle mixture with a hot motor (hot oil tank) or it will blacken plugs.

1/8 turn on an S&S is a significant change.

[david lee]

I still have one !

wow, i never actually saw one, do you still use it,were they are good tool to have.did they work how i described.how could you see in to the bore.how much were the worth and can you still buy them.can you post a picture thank you

[packrat56]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gunson-Colortune-14mm-Kit-colourtune-spark-plug-carb-mixture-/130758004248
http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4172

[thumper 823]

For its day it was great , Long B4 computers and oxy sensors !
It is basically a spark plug skeleton emersed in a clear epoxy,
It has an extra cable for attaching a spark plug wire to.  A mirror so to see dwn into the combustion chamber if the angle is bad.
A purrfect burn is bunsen blue.
I dont use it anymore with the advent of better stuff.
last year I bought the AEM  afr GUAGE .
I had to weld a bung into my exhaust of course, but it is the best tool in the world for carb adjustments

[david lee]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gunson-Colortune-14mm-Kit-colourtune-spark-plug-carb-mixture-/130758004248
http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4172

great might just buy one just out of curiosity

[HotRodShovel]

I'm thinking the same thing. Pretty cool device.

[thumper 823]

The AEM AFR gauge is the real deal, in real right now time under all conditions.
It will fit right on your handlebars and worth every penny .

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=aem+afr+gauge&atb=v22_d&ia=products&iai=B01G5Y9YEWhttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31AfqSBlLPL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31AfqSBlLPL._SL160_.jpg

[pred]

I went ahead and put a new .195 and 72 in the S&S and turned off the accelerator pump and adjusted the idle screw the best I could and ran over 100 miles with new NGK plugs and the plugs are clean,
I would like to buy an extension screw which has a spring and knob on it for the accelerator pump screw and know when I am in traffic I can pretty much turn off the accelerator pump,
   Ive a couple other bikes which have a spring extension on the idle screw which is helpful as the weather turns,,,
Any one know where I can get these spring screws? Or what the proper name is of them?

[HotRodShovel]

Lowbrowcustoms.com    search 'tweaky idle adjuster' and 'tweaky accelerator pump adjuster'.    I'm sure other vendors sell them.