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Intake manifold seals

Started by JW113, October 09, 2016, 10:56:07 AM

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nibroc

Quote from: garyajaz on October 23, 2016, 10:33:37 AM
nibroc, I thought it was my L series you wanted??  (its still here)
oh well. that super E should do what sporty needs/ accel pump and enrichner
now if JW 113 would just take it off...lol

yeah garyajaz I mainly wanted the body--had a guy here in da Ville work it over--extremely hard to even find anyone who wants to refurbish a GAL--Daytona Parts won't even look at it. they did my SU a cpl yrs back and a mighty fine job I might add

garyajaz

ah, a stripped body.
oh well, mine is up and running. all tight shafts and everything in  order.
needs no refurbish. just a hot rod to bolt it on to.
changed out a few jets...lol
have a numbered jet board with 10 progressive alky # jets screwed into it.
also 3-4 gas main jets.  idle jet is off some car needle, fits and works fine.

intermediate tube been soldered and drilled/tuned. tear drop air cleaner

JW113

Well I finally got the bike fixed and running. As on another topic, Mr. Gary Ajaz swapped carburetors (S&S E for a Keihin CV) in the process, so took a little longer than usual to fix a manifold seal problem.

Just to learn a bit more in this process, I ordered several different types of manifold seals and clamps. Stock HD, a set by Dixie/Superior off of eBay, and some silicone seals/aero clamps from Legends. In the end, I ended up using the silicone seals with the Dixie/Superior clamps. The Legends silicone seals come with a nifty phenolic ring to put in that notch in the head spiggot, so that there is a nice smooth transition between the manifold and the head, instead of that notch. I'm thinking the clamps maybe force the rubber of the band into that notch, and try to push the manifold away from the head.

For no good reason other than not wanting to get stuck again with the carb hanging off the motor, I made an additional carb bracket. I still have one from the tappet block to the air cleaner base, but this one goes from the left side head bracket to the manifold. Ain't no way in hell the carb & manifold are going to fall off now, regardless of the manifold clamps or any backfires.

[attach=0]

So now I need to do a little bit of tuning to that CV to get it dialed in. But at least it's running!
:baby:

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

garyajaz

looks like you polished it up some. what is the spacer? something you made? is it necked up to S&S manifold size?
real nice idea bout extra support. woulda been great in my dual throat days.
sure wish I  took it apart first.  (as per e-mail)
seems my sporty dirtied it up some.

JW113

The shiny part is one of them Killer Motorcycle Products CV to stock manifold adapter that you can find on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KILLER-MOTORCYCLE-PRODUCTS-CV40MM-ADAPTER-FLANGE-/281152232701?hash=item4175fa9cfd:g:pZ4AAMXQ4uJSDZNH&vxp=mtr


These work great, cannot recommend enough if you want to use a CV on a shovel or ironhead. It presses on to the CV, using JB Weld for "extra" insurance. After installation, it's solid as a rock, unlike those "band and hose clamp" adapters. And also does not push the carb way out the right side.

-JW

2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

ricochet

Is this a custom frame?  Where does that motor mount attach to the frame?  I was looking all over for good places to put a support bracket where it would be less visible and ended up with one like yours except it goes from that top manifold bolt to the bottom of the bolt that holds the top motor mount to the frame.  This is on a 73 stock frame.  The bracket ended up being "L" shaped with about 1 in on the leg and 1.5 on the other.  Made the bracket accurately so it bolted flat at both points so as to not put any pressure or tweak the assembly. 

ricochet

JW113

Stock 1978 frame. Motor mounts to the upper frame at the front of the front head, and center of the rear head. At both places it has a bracket that attaches to the rocker box bolts.

There is a bracket between the two heads (that I used to attach that carb bracket) that is only used to mount the ignition switch. It does not connect to the frame.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

tmwmoose

what year are the heads your sealing up ?

JW113

2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

tmwmoose

Quote from: JW113 on January 14, 2017, 11:28:49 AM
1978

-JW

OK I was wondering did you have bad luck using the o ring system ?

JW113

To be honest, I never have tried it. It never did seem like a very good engineering solution to me. And know people who did use it and did nothing but complain about it. Guess HD agrees, since they changed to the rubber band type in the late 70s.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

tmwmoose

January 14, 2017, 08:08:25 PM #36 Last Edit: January 14, 2017, 08:13:06 PM by tmwmoose
Quote from: JW113 on January 14, 2017, 05:04:49 PM
To be honest, I never have tried it. It never did seem like a very good engineering solution to me. And know people who did use it and did nothing but complain about it. Guess HD agrees, since they changed to the rubber band type in the late 70s.

-JW

The o ring is a much better set up with a good manifold to head fit and back when Gary Bang sold the brass clamps it was bullet proof. The o ring sealed and the metal to metal clamping was strong as hell no need for supports. The aircraft t bolt clamps were 2nd best . The rubber band has a very limited life span and you can't tighten the clamps to tight or the seal is distorted and will leak. Now the Shovels were fine but the xl's had a problem of a gap at the head and manifold and the o ring wasn't squished well enough sometimes .What I did over the years at my shop would be to use a S&S + 0 size manifold which would bridge the gap nicely and give good o ring fit . The rubber band set up sucked yeah you needed to build lots of good support for the carb since the clamp system couldn't hold squat . It wouldn't suprize me if Harley went the rubber band route cause of there quality control on the machining processes and eventually cutting costs. If you ever come across a set of the brass two piece clamps with the groove in them for the o ring get them and try them I think you'll really like it .Oh there were chrome steel ones made but pass them up no good and they made the brass for the rubber band also pass on those as well.
In the 70's chopper mags Arlen ran a add showing him standing with one foot on the carb on one of his digger bikes advertising the clamps

JW113

I agree that the machining and fit between heads and manifold has to be spot on to keep it from having vacuum leaks. And yes, HD probably switched to the rubber bands because it was easier than trying to control quality of those parts. I have been using those red silicone rubber bands, they seem to hold up to the heat just fine.

Will keep an eye out for the brass clamps, maybe give that a try someday.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

JW113

So here's what good old google pulls up:

[attach=0]

I see that a company called Harddrive makes these kind of clamps now, maybe others also. Are you saying the new ones from companies like that are no good, and only Gary Bang are good? How does one tell the difference if they don't list the manufacturer?

thanks,
JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

packrat56

     I've seen those at swap meets the next time I will scoop them up.
 
Now I know, why some animals eat their young.

tmwmoose

Quote from: JW113 on January 15, 2017, 10:24:57 AM
So here's what good old google pulls up:

[attach=0]

I see that a company called Harddrive makes these kind of clamps now, maybe others also. Are you saying the new ones from companies like that are no good, and only Gary Bang are good? How does one tell the difference if they don't list the manufacturer?

thanks,

Yeah thats them ,I wouldn't hesitate using the brass ones they sell today  Its the chrome ones that suck the brass just seemed to conform better. Get yourself a ball end driver or 1/4" drive ball end socket bit 7/32" I think same as side cover screws to install them there super easy
JW

turboprop

These are billet aluminum, made by Dan Baisley and work very well. I put them on the Johny Bo Troublehead. They are not on the Baisley website. If someone is interested in them you will have to call him.





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