Oil in intake manifold, not from breathers?

[2006FXDCI]

I generally use a quality 15/40 conventional oil for the first few 100 miles. 20/50 conventional thereafter until 1k and then switch to synthetic. Absolutely necessary? Maybe not but it works for me.

I agree , shell rotella 15/40 for break in . After 500 miles i go to mobil 1 20/50

[FlaHeatWave]

Are the white spots at 9 o'clock on the rear cylinder and 11 o'clock on the front cylinder signs of detonation??

Nope.. Compression release holes do that..

Not doubting, 'have MCRs in the '01 and ACRs in the '09,,, never noticed the white spots before

[1FSTRK]

Are the white spots at 9 o'clock on the rear cylinder and 11 o'clock on the front cylinder signs of detonation??

Nope.. Compression release holes do that..

Not doubting, 'have MCRs in the '01 and ACRs in the '09,,, never noticed the white spots before

If they leak or stick a bit it causes a lean spot that will clean the piston top.

[mattVA]

Are the white spots at 9 o'clock on the rear cylinder and 11 o'clock on the front cylinder signs of detonation??

Nope.. Compression release holes do that..

Not doubting, 'have MCRs in the '01 and ACRs in the '09,,, never noticed the white spots before

If they leak or stick a bit it causes a lean spot that will clean the piston top.

Learn something new every day

[m1marty]

Oil aside- one thing that I keep coming back to is it looks like it got hot. I've seen that golden hue and the vertical clear spots by the spigot holes on quite a few bikes that had heat issues. The fact that your heads were glued tight further makes me think that. I don't know your tuner and certainly not laying blame there but do you know if timing was touched by chance? Intake sealed up tight? Just something else to consider.

[Smarty]

Oil aside- one thing that I keep coming back to is it looks like it got hot. I've seen that golden hue and the vertical clear spots by the spigot holes on quite a few bikes that had heat issues. The fact that your heads were glued tight further makes me think that. I don't know your tuner and certainly not laying blame there but do you know if timing was touched by chance? Intake sealed up tight? Just something else to consider.

[mattVA]

For the sake of being thorough here's the latest update.

The cylinders were mic'ed and they have severe taper and out of round issues. Gauge zeroed to 3.927":

Cyl #1 measured at 65 deg
Thrust, top +.0005, mid +.0021, bottom +.0036
Pin side, top -.0018, mid -.002, bottom -.0028

#2 cylinder
Thrust, +.0008, +.0012, +.002
Pin, -.001, -.0014, -.0012

Heads were checked and the seals are toast, guides held up to pressure tests. Visually the cylinders look like they got hot.

Cylinders will be bored to fit Mahle 4032 pistons from Suburban Speed, heads cleaned up w/ new seals and larger intakes while apart. Should have parts before the new year.

[rbabos]

For the sake of being thorough here's the latest update.

The cylinders were mic'ed and they have severe taper and out of round issues. Gauge zeroed to 3.927":

Cyl #1 measured at 65 deg
Thrust, top +.0005, mid +.0021, bottom +.0036
Pin side, top -.0018, mid -.002, bottom -.0028

#2 cylinder
Thrust, +.0008, +.0012, +.002
Pin, -.001, -.0014, -.0012

Heads were checked and the seals are toast, guides held up to pressure tests. Visually the cylinders look like they got hot.

Cylinders will be bored to fit Mahle 4032 pistons from Suburban Speed, heads cleaned up w/ new seals and larger intakes while apart. Should have parts before the new year.

Wow, both turned oval. Between that and the seals, sounds like the reason for the problem.
Ron

[PanHeadRed]

Assuming the cylinders were measured in TQ plates that's not good.

Is it warranty or your $?  If it's your $ consider the SE bolt on 110 kit...real nice, I have not had my hands on a S&S kit yet but I would not hesitate.

[Frédéric CM]

Remember that oïl also burn hotter than fuel... If rings started to leak, excessive heat finished the killing job...

You use ARP bolts for your intake manifold ?

[1FSTRK]

Does anyone have a nifty trick for removing stuck heads? Both of them won't budge. Yes the head bolts are out. .

Try your heat gun, mainly on the dowel side blowing between the fins right at where the dowels are.
Also looks like the only dry valve and port is the front exhaust, did this engine get run hot?

You have been both meticulous in this entire build and forthcoming with all the info from the start of the project.
So that we all may learn, I ask;
Do you know how and when the heat damage occurred?
Did you heat cycle and if so what map was used?
Was this bike ridden to tune it with a self tuner?
Were there break-in miles?

Most damage will occur during break-in, riding un-tuned/partially tuned, or during a specific riding incident (stuck in heavy traffic, riding in a parade) could you identify something like this as the cause?

Thank so much for sharing this build and your experiences with us and best of luck with the replacement set up.

[mattVA]

You have been both meticulous in this entire build and forthcoming with all the info from the start of the project.
So that we all may learn, I ask;
Do you know how and when the heat damage occurred?

No I do not. Sometime between 500 and 2000 miles.

Did you heat cycle and if so what map was used?

3-4 heat cycles using a map close for the setup.

Was this bike ridden to tune it with a self tuner?

Yes at the end of August. Exhaust was changed out and 3 V-tune sessions performed. Logs show head temp peaked at 320 degrees for a period of 2-3 minutes, majority of time around 280 degrees.

Were there break-in miles?

Yes. Broken in immediately on dyno w/ fans, controlled conditions. Returned to me with rev limiter set to 4k RPM for ~250 miles, then brought back for full tune.

Most damage will occur during break-in, riding un-tuned/partially tuned, or during a specific riding incident (stuck in heavy traffic, riding in a parade) could you identify something like this as the cause?

Only one day I can think of but it didn't get to EITMS, shut it down and coasted a while until we got moving again.

Thank so much for sharing this build and your experiences with us and best of luck with the replacement set up.

To be clear I know the individuals involved with either the headwork or the tuning are likely keeping tabs on this thread. I'm not at all suggesting anyone is at fault I'm just posting up my findings. I believe I have bad luck.

[1FSTRK]

You have been both meticulous in this entire build and forthcoming with all the info from the start of the project.
So that we all may learn, I ask;
Do you know how and when the heat damage occurred?

No I do not. Sometime between 500 and 2000 miles.

Did you heat cycle and if so what map was used?

3-4 heat cycles using a map close for the setup.

Was this bike ridden to tune it with a self tuner?

Yes at the end of August. Exhaust was changed out and 3 V-tune sessions performed. Logs show head temp peaked at 320 degrees for a period of 2-3 minutes, majority of time around 280 degrees.

Were there break-in miles?

Yes. Broken in immediately on dyno w/ fans, controlled conditions. Returned to me with rev limiter set to 4k RPM for ~250 miles, then brought back for full tune.

Most damage will occur during break-in, riding un-tuned/partially tuned, or during a specific riding incident (stuck in heavy traffic, riding in a parade) could you identify something like this as the cause?

Only one day I can think of but it didn't get to EITMS, shut it down and coasted a while until we got moving again.

Thank so much for sharing this build and your experiences with us and best of luck with the replacement set up.

To be clear I know the individuals involved with either the headwork or the tuning are likely keeping tabs on this thread. I'm not at all suggesting anyone is at fault I'm just posting up my findings. I believe I have bad luck.

Thanks again for sharing here.
With your attention to detail I am confident you will achieve success with this build.

[Reindeer]

Man, that's frustrating...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1workinman]

You have been both meticulous in this entire build and forthcoming with all the info from the start of the project.
So that we all may learn, I ask;
Do you know how and when the heat damage occurred?

No I do not. Sometime between 500 and 2000 miles.

Did you heat cycle and if so what map was used?

3-4 heat cycles using a map close for the setup.

Was this bike ridden to tune it with a self tuner?

Yes at the end of August. Exhaust was changed out and 3 V-tune sessions performed. Logs show head temp peaked at 320 degrees for a period of 2-3 minutes, majority of time around 280 degrees.

Were there break-in miles?

Yes. Broken in immediately on dyno w/ fans, controlled conditions. Returned to me with rev limiter set to 4k RPM for ~250 miles, then brought back for full tune.

Most damage will occur during break-in, riding un-tuned/partially tuned, or during a specific riding incident (stuck in heavy traffic, riding in a parade) could you identify something like this as the cause?

Only one day I can think of but it didn't get to EITMS, shut it down and coasted a while until we got moving again.

Thank so much for sharing this build and your experiences with us and best of luck with the replacement set up.

To be clear I know the individuals involved with either the headwork or the tuning are likely keeping tabs on this thread. I'm not at all suggesting anyone is at fault I'm just posting up my findings. I believe I have bad luck.

Look forward to seeing how the motor turns out , I believe I had some of that luck with my engine lol . But hopefully that is almost behind me. The truth is provided me a opportunity to have some things done to the engine that I wanted to try . Jim

[mattVA]

Look forward to seeing how the motor turns out , I believe I had some of that luck with my engine lol . But hopefully that is almost behind me. The truth is provided me a opportunity to have some things done to the engine that I wanted to try . Jim

Similar situation.. doing a cam swap and opening up the heads a little more. Hopefully this one fares better.

[1workinman]

Matt I am looking forward to just having a good running engine that does not use oil lol or have oil in the TB . No strange noises lol . Good luck with the build Jim

[prodrag1320]

For the sake of being thorough here's the latest update.

The cylinders were mic'ed and they have severe taper and out of round issues. Gauge zeroed to 3.927":

Cyl #1 measured at 65 deg
Thrust, top +.0005, mid +.0021, bottom +.0036
Pin side, top -.0018, mid -.002, bottom -.0028

#2 cylinder
Thrust, +.0008, +.0012, +.002
Pin, -.001, -.0014, -.0012

Heads were checked and the seals are toast, guides held up to pressure tests. Visually the cylinders look like they got hot.

Cylinders will be bored to fit Mahle 4032 pistons from Suburban Speed, heads cleaned up w/ new seals and larger intakes while apart. Should have parts before the new year.

when checked (and installed),where they torqued the same as they where bored? when I do cylinders here,i send a install sheet with TQ sequences & amounts used when boring & honing.cylinders should be torqued the same way on install (or being checked)

[mattVA]

Deleted.

[1workinman]

How is the build going Matt.

[mattVA]

How is the build going Matt.

Coming along. Got the parts in, heads and rockers are on, cams in. Maybe fire it up this weekend

[mattVA]

58 miles on it now. Couple of Vtunes to get it dialed in under 4k. Leakdown is 3% front, 2% rear using Suburban Speed Mahle flat tops with 0.002" PTW clearance. The Tman 590's are setup with 9.58:1 corrected and are pumping 210CCP each cylinder here at sea level according to my OTC gauge. 

[1workinman]

Great glad you got it going . Finally got a chance to ride mine. Pulls hard now ,