EBC MD520 front rotors

[klammer76]

I did a Brembo brake conversion (front & rear) last year on my 2002 FLHTC. Got stock used rotors from ebay for the project. Brakes work great but have pulsating fronts after a summer of riding, think I warped the fronts. I have wanted to switch out any way to different rotors. I have read quite a bit on here through searching EBC rotors. I am interested in the EBC MD520 rotors. Problem is, some searches show the rotor being a 10 spoke chrome inner with 10 buttons and other images show it as a 5 spoke star with 5 buttons. I am interested in the 10 spoke/button rotor for the fronts. Anyone know what version the MD520 is, 10 or 5? A search for the rear shows part #MD521 which is the 10 spoke/button item but is listed for the rear. These rotors are supposed to be 300mm dia which is 11,8" which correspond to the brembo rotor size. Other option is the HD floating rotor but it is actually more expensive. I know the HD is listed as floating but have read they are not a true floating rotor. Are the EBC's the same also? Looks like same design.

Also, how do you guys check your rotor run out? I have a dial indicator and mag base but where do you attach the mag base?
Thanks,
klammer

[Hossamania]

You might have to get creative attaching the base to the forks, wire tie or ty wraps, or set on the fender somehow. Easy check is just a bent wire taped to the fork to use as an indicator to check run-out. Won't give you a true reading, but will give you a good idea of how far out it is.

[No Cents]

 I've ran that exact EBC rotor on the rear of my bike for a few years now. It's held up great. 
I put the magnetic base right down on lift. I use a magnetic digital level on the rotor to make sure it's at 90* from the table...then check the rotor for run out.

Ray

[klammer76]

Have heard of using the fender but not crazy about that.

Ray, how did you keep the front end stable when spinning the wheel? I read that some put a jack on each side and lower the bike having both lower legs contact the jacks thus keeping the front end from being able to move. Did you use a semi sinthered pad on your rear rotor? That is what EBC reccommended when I talked to them. I want to find the same style for the front in 300mm dia.

[packrat56]

    What I usually do is use a shop rag under the magnet or clamp a piece metal to something and then put the mag base on that 

[No Cents]

 I first lock the bike down on the lift with the tire vise. I then put my table scissor jack under the bike to where it will lift the front tire up off the lift. I usually have someone else around to hold the bike while I get the jack under the frame to lift the front tire up. Then I loosen the tire vise a little bit and jack the bike up with the scissors jack. Once the front tire is barely off the lift I'll use tie down straps off the bike back down to the lift to stable the bike once the front tire is lifted up. You don't have to lift the front tire very high...about a 1/2" is all I lift mine. With the tire vise opened with the tire still rubbing up against one side of the vise it will spin fairly straight. I'll put a level on the table and a magnetic level on the rotor and get the rotor at 90* by adjusting a tied down strap if I have to. From there it's just putting your dial indicator up against your rotor and spinning the wheel around slowly checking to see your run out.

[klammer76]

I first lock the bike down on the lift with the tire vise. I then put my table scissor jack under the bike to where it will lift the front tire up off the lift. I usually have someone else around to hold the bike while I get the jack under the frame to lift the front tire up. Then I loosen the tire vise a little bit and jack the bike up with the scissors jack. Once the front tire is barely off the lift I'll use tie down straps off the bike back down the lift to stable the bike once the front tire is lifted up. You don't have to lift the front tire very high...about a 1/2" is all I lift mine. With the tire vise opened with the tire still rubbing up against one side of the vise it will spin fairly straight. I'll put a level on the table and a magnetic level on the rotor and get the rotor at 90* by adjusting a tied down strap if I have to. From there it's just putting your dial indicator up against your rotor and spinning the wheel around slowly checking to see your run out.

Got it, thanks Ray.

[GunShyKennedy]

The 11.8" (300mm) brake disc on the current Softail models and use this part number 41500088.
I admit to giving this brake a workout. In my experience this is the best performing, stock Harley brake disc to date.

It's been hot enough to show heat spots on the braking surfaces both sides and turn the disc outer perimeter a straw yellow.
Has not warped, yet! Does show some signs of wear as to be expected.

They're worth a try, retail in the US is $150, a quick online check showed them priced @ $120

Are the EBC rotors priced better? EBC make a good product generally.
Pics I've seen online mostly show them to be 10 spoke, but have seen a couple with 5 spoke.
Worth asking sellers on ebay perhaps.