Replacing the front drive belt sprocket

[Cabreco]

Ok so I am finally going to try to replace the front 32 tooth drive sprocket on my stock1990 EVO Electra Glide 5 speed. As I posted before I have a faint clunk when she rolls which seems to be coming from that spot. I have gone over many videos showing the primary & clutch removal and some sprocket removal but none for my specific bike

I did buy the the small plastic thing to keep the clutch chain in place while I loosen it as well as the special deep socket to remove the sprocket.  There are a few questions like will I need a gear puller or is it right or left hand nut. I have air impacts to remove the nut I just want to avoid damaging anything.

Does anyone know of a video available or at least a write up I can refer to?

[hbkeith]

Yes , it is a Must . Factory Harley Service Manual

[Cabreco]

Picked up the shop manual from Harley this morning.  This will make the job easier.

No videos huh?
BTW does this sight have a SPECIFIC section to upload videos & write ups?
I would like to document my work, like I do with my Yamaha, and post it here so that others can benefit.

[JamesButler]

Picked up the shop manual from Harley this morning.  This will make the job easier.

No videos huh?
BTW does this sight have a SPECIFIC section to upload videos & write ups?
I would like to document my work, like I do with my Yamaha, and post it here so that others can benefit.

Do a YouTube search.  Chances are you'll find a video of this project...

[JW113]

If you have the factory shop manual and that deep socket for the trans pulley, its a cake walk. The early Evo trans pulley nut & lock are terrible, almost guaranteed to come loose. Usually eats the splines on the pulley, but carefully examine the splines on the trans output shaft for wear.

I avoid using an impact as much as possible. Better off with a long and heavy duty breaker bar. My guess is the nut on that trans pulley is already loose and will just spin off by hand. When you replace the pulley, put the trans in 5th gear, get somebody to hold the rear brake, and tighten the nut to spec. I actually do this by my self, by straddling the bike and holding the brake with right foot and pulling the torque wrench with left hand. A little awkward but doable.

Also, as already said, the nut will likely be loose and trans pulley splines worn so no puller should be needed.

Hate to say it, but like all things when fixing something and tearing it down to that level, "while you're in there", would be a good time to get an eyeball on the clutch support bearing in the inner primary, and the inner race on the mainshaft. You didn't say how many miles are on the bike, but after 27 years, has to be a few if you ride it. The only issue will be the special tool (like from Jims) to remove and install the inner race. Can be a real bear to do it without the right tools.

Good luck!

-JW

[Cabreco]

Thanx JW

I also suspect the nut may be loose and that is the faint click I hear when rolling.
My Glide only has 53K miles but the engine was rebuilt by a reputable local HD mechanic 2 years ago. When I was at the dealer I spoke to him & he pulled his records & told me he gave the trans a good looking over for the P.O. when he did the rebuild.
He never looked at the pulley for 2 reasons
1 the bike did not show any adverse issues
2 the clicking was inaudible because the P.O. had straight pipes with no mufflers ( I replaced them with stock units)

Thanks for the heads up I will inspect the additional parts you recommended.

[karlsbike]

As JW says, and you should in addition upgrade with the newer pulley, nut and lockring, vastly improving both the spline contact surface area and the locking down setup. Iirc, it is the '93-up , that has the improved stuff. There is also a Jims' combined nut & lockring that really holds things in place - I have this one.

It is really not a hard task to open it up, and you can pull off the whole primary drive components as one.

It is very useful to learn how your scoot works is put together, and the Evo's were the last of the simple machines. Pure Zen (kind of...)

[tomfiii]

Make sure splines are ok on output gear shaft,this is a must.

[Burnout]

When you update to the (94-up) pulley you will also need the trans seal and sleeve and xring.

Do not reinstall an old style (85-93) pulley, it will not stay tight.

[JW113]

 

Yup!!

-JW

[Mark222]

Been there too, spun two pulleys in my past.  Upgrade before it comes loose, save some money on the gear.  Oh wait, too late!

Mark

[Dan89flstc]

If you are replacing the front sprocket, there is a kit which contains the upgraded parts.

40210-85D will contain the upgraded pulley, nut, pulley spacer, big oil seal, lockplate and bolts.

You will also need a quad seal P/N: 11165 (not sure if it is included in the kit, they cost about a buck).

Check Boardtracker Harley Davidson, they show the kit for $203.00

http://www.boardtrackerharleyonline.com/harley-davidson/transmission-sprocket-kit-32t-40210-85d?page_580440596=0

[Cabreco]

Thanks for all of the advice it will make this job a lot easier.

BTW on my 90 glide does anyone know if it is a right or left hand loosening nut? It's probably loose anyway but I figured I'd ask before I turn a wrench.

[Dan89flstc]

 

BTW on my 90 glide does anyone know if it is a right or left hand loosening nut? It's probably loose anyway but I figured I'd ask before I turn a wrench.

You must have missed that info when you were reading the service manual, but it is there...

[Cabreco]

 

BTW on my 90 glide does anyone know if it is a right or left hand loosening nut? It's probably loose anyway but I figured I'd ask before I turn a wrench.

You must have missed that info when you were reading the service manual, but it is there...

Ok then Left hand thread (didn't see the huge bold print on page 6-9 LoL)
Looks pretty simple enough. After this job I get to do fork seals & progressive to replace the front air suspension...but that's another thread!

[Cabreco]

Well I got some free time to tackle this job today. The hardest part was actually getting the compensator bolt off. Need to use a breaker bar with a 5 foot galvanized steel pipe to break it free. (my air torque gun did squat)

When I got down to the sprocket the problem was obvious. The main nut was loose (I could move it with my fingers) and 2 of the 3 lock down screws had sheared off, and the third was mangled. I lucked out that the sprocket was still fairly tight on the shaft. Not damage whatsoever to any of the splines. The "CLICKING" sound I was hearing while rolling, was the head of one of the sheared lock down screws tumbling in the sprocket. (see pix)

[attach=1]

I inspected everything & the only thing I will change out is the shift lever (since the primary case is removed) as it has a little play.

All in All it was a good day, and you guys made it easier with all your help!

Thanks again

[FSG]

Don't put it back together using the stock nut, visit the 3guys and get their Sprocket Lock Nut

http://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycles-topmenu#!/Sprocket-Lock-Nuts/p/6500822/category=1575036

[Cabreco]

Don't put it back together using the stock nut, visit the 3guys and get their Sprocket Lock Nut

http://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycles-topmenu#!/Sprocket-Lock-Nuts/p/6500822/category=1575036

DUDE! This is AWESOME!!
This is exactly what I was envisioning. I was considering welding the nut to a stainless retaining plate and drilling out the holes to attach it to the sprocket. For $25 bucks I don't have to sweat the fabrication!
EXCELLENT THANKS!

[Burnout]

That nut will not fix a pre 94 style pulley.

The problem is the spline area is too narrow.

There are some early style aftermarket pulleys that have the new style lock plate but when the narrow pulley wobbles on the shaft it eats the nut and lock plate and falls off just like the original 1 lock screw pulley.

[Cabreco]

That nut will not fix a pre 94 style pulley.

The problem is the spline area is too narrow.

There are some early style aftermarket pulleys that have the new style lock plate but when the narrow pulley wobbles on the shaft it eats the nut and lock plate and falls off just like the original 1 lock screw pulley.

And I was just wondering if it the holes on that plate would line up to my hub since I have 3 screw holes not 2.   

[FSG]

That nut will not fix a pre 94 style pulley.

The problem is the spline area is too narrow.

There are some early style aftermarket pulleys that have the new style lock plate but when the narrow pulley wobbles on the shaft it eats the nut and lock plate and falls off just like the original 1 lock screw pulley.

Quite true BUT if the OP is putting it back together using a 94 later pully either from the kit Dan referred to 40210-85D

Instructions -J00092  https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/78

or P/N 40250-94C direct from a dealer then he'd be wise to fit a 3guyz nut or similar from other, Jims, etc, my preference is 3guyz.

[Cabreco]

Quite true BUT if the OP is putting it back together using a 94 later pully either from the kit Dan referred to 40210-85D

Instructions -J00092  https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/78

or P/N 40250-94C direct from a dealer then he'd be wise to fit a 3guyz nut or similar from other, Jims, etc, my preference is 3guyz.

I was hoping so save the cost of the pulley since my OEM one is literally in perfect shape. I was either a miracle that it has absolutely no wear after 50K miles or it was most likely replaced by the PO  when the drive train was rebuilt. I looked at some of the replacement pulleys out there and see some have 5 holes. (the 3 pre 94 & the 2 95 to 05 style) I will probably just machine 2 additional holes in my existing Pulley to accommodate this locking nut.

[FSG]

I will probably just machine 2 additional holes in my existing Pulley to accommodate this locking nut.

even if you welded a large washer to thicken it up, obviously it wouldn't increase the splines but would provide increased support to a/the nut

[Burnout]

There is no way to adequately lock an early style pulley onto the splines.

I am convinced that even if you welded the nut to the pulley it would take itself apart over time.

The kit mentioned comes with a lock plate, a fancy nut is not necessary.

If you have a new early pulley, it is a paper weight as it it doomed to fall off and ruin the 5th gear splines.

[Cabreco]

Ok now I'm grasping what you are saying.  (too early to process) The spline area on the 40210-85D is THICKER than on my OEM pulley. So irregardless to how I lock down the nut onto the OEM unit, the fact still remains that the actual OEM pulley ls inferior to the 40210-85D replacement part. Got it. The above lock nut would just be extra protection per se.

I'm too old to play "penny wise & dollar foolish" and wind up having to take this stuff apart at a later time.
So instead of cheaping out, I will buy a new 40210-85D & 3 guys lock nut and be done with this job once and for all.

I'm a big fan of DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE!