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Front wheel installation question

Started by Odin, March 08, 2017, 09:34:11 AM

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Odin

I pulled the front wheel to replace the tire on my 2013 Eglide. It's a simple job but I always read the shop manual in case there are any little details that aren't obvious. This one has me puzzled.

The manual states that when installing the wheel the axle nut should be tightened to 70-75 foot pounds. So far so good. Then it says I'm to push the fork slider inboard until it contacts the spacer and then tighten the axle holder nuts.

Now I've just torqued the axle nut to 75 lb. This sucked the slider up against the spacer no problem. I can't see it NOT doing that. So why would that statement be in the manual? Is there some reason the slider wouldn't come up against the spacer? Is there something I'm missing? I don't have a lot of background in wrenching and it's  little gems like this that really get me into trouble. Therefore my need to understand.

14GuineaPig

I believe they are talking about the opposite side slider.  The one that has the cap on it.  Push that one in.

kd

Quote from: 14GuineaPig on March 08, 2017, 10:23:40 AM
I believe they are talking about the opposite side slider.  The one that has the cap on it.  Push that one in.


:up:
KD

Odin

I'm talking about the slider on the right that has the cap on the bottom.

kd

I believe that fork leg is the one that they say is pushed in after the bearings and spacer have been torqued. Then you tighten the cap bolts on it. 
KD

PoorUB

Quote from: Odin on March 08, 2017, 09:34:11 AMNow I've just torqued the axle nut to 75 lb. This sucked the slider up against the spacer no problem. I can't see it NOT doing that. So why would that statement be in the manual? Is there some reason the slider wouldn't come up against the spacer? Is there something I'm missing? I don't have a lot of background in wrenching and it's  little gems like this that really get me into trouble. Therefore my need to understand.

I have seen it where the slider does not ride up against the spacer on it's own. The info in the manual is there to make sure that during assembly it gets pushed over if not.

You are not missing anything, no tricks involved.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

aussie123

First off,, The torque value of the front axle may have change , I thought it was 60-65 ft/pd,,, you may want to double check this ....

Ok, your asking about the push on the front right slider/fork, and at the same time tighten, (evenly), the two axle cap/pinch bolts...  ...
After you have torqued the front axle , move over to right side,, look closely at the inner space, (the one with the rings, make sure the rings a outboard),,, now push the right slider/fork, with your hand just above axle ....  You will see a very small movement as you push the slider towards  the inner right spacer ... It is a very small amount , approx one mm .....

It might not seem a big deal ,, It is a spec the engineers have worked out, so the right caliper is in proper alignment the right rotor ....  No doubt many without a service manual would miss this, if a particular model requires it ....

I have two bikes,, 2009 E/G , and a 2015 Street Glide .... The later models have changed the two axle cap/pinch bolts, to one allen head bolt in this area ... I believe the push and tighten procedure is the same ..... 

   




Odin

The shop manual says 70 - 75 foot pounds. Just Checked

76shuvlinoff

You leave the right side pinch cap loose and torque the axle nut on the left side to spec, Then push the right side toward the wheel as you tighten the cap bolts making sure the gap under the pinch cap is equal on both sides of the axle.

(Right and left as viewed from the seat.)
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

Odin