Drill Out Push Rod Tubes

[Boe Cole]

I think your honing stones would fill with aluminum pretty quick.

I need to check my tubes after I remove the safety wire!! I was under the idea they are THIN plated chrome over steel (SE) not ALUM.
Way more $$$ for manufacturing in ALUM then steel. Ill check with a magnet. Thanks

You don't drill the lower chrome tube, you drill the upper aluminum tube.

http://www.harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,69838.msg756889.html#msg756889

Until this post, I've been scratching my head wondering how/why you would drill out the original factory tubes.  Now I understand you are referring to the top part of the SE Quicky tubes!!!!

[FSG]

Boe, it's all the tubes, factory, S&S, aftermarket, all have been distorted/deformed during the compression of the end, so all need opening up, some more than others.

I have a jar full of tubes already drilled out, I use them for quick changeover when required.

[build it]

Does anyone know how big (OD) of a pushrod will fit in these tubes after they've been drilled out?

I could start another thread, but my question seemed relevant to the OP

[gdishman]

With a major chance of sounding stupid.What kind of noise does this cause? I have installed S&S 583 cams with screaming eagle adjustable push rods and tubes. I have a valve noise in the front cylinder. The Valves are properly adjusted.

[motorhogman]

You'd all Freak out if ya saw how I did mine...Mounted my 1/2 inch Bosch drill in a vise and reamed them a little with an old 5/8 bit..Really didn't remove any great amount of materiel.  Just pretty much shined up the top couple of inches or so. 

I thought the reason for doing this was oil return efficiency.   

My push rods are stock. Never had any issue with them rubbing. 

Is there anything to the oil return efficiency thing ?

[FSG]

What kind of noise does this cause?

Ticking/Rubbing noise of the PR against the tube top.

Is there anything to the oil return efficiency thing ?

No 

[1FSTRK]

You'd all Freak out if ya saw how I did mine...Mounted my 1/2 inch Bosch drill in a vise and reamed them a little with an old 5/8 bit..Really didn't remove any great amount of materiel.  Just pretty much shined up the top couple of inches or so. 

I thought the reason for doing this was oil return efficiency.   

My push rods are stock. Never had any issue with them rubbing. 

Is there anything to the oil return efficiency thing ?

Not sure it could do anything for helping the oil come down the oil return passages unless the theory was that all the air going up the pushrod tubes was being vented out the breathers and somehow caused the oil returns to vacuum lock.I am with FSG on this being a non issue.

[gordonr]

Does anyone know how big (OD) of a pushrod will fit in these tubes after they've been drilled out?

I could start another thread, but my question seemed relevant to the OP

I know what your thinking James.   Jesel tubes is the answer for a larger ID for sure. Drilling the tubes out just gives enough room to clear though. I would have custom one piece tapered pr at .120 walled or so and roll with that.

[Don D]

Drill it .625"D X 1" from the top down and be done.

[kd]

 

[gordonr]

I do both ends 1". On occasion you will see the rub marring in the middle.

[kd]

I do both ends 1". On occasion you will see the rub marring in the middle.

IMO If you get contact in the middle (and not one end or the other) you have loose fitting pushrod tube components that wobble or physical damage. The bottoms are close to the lower pivot point but the tops are a distance away (linear). The tops have the arc from the rockers. I have positioned the lower rocker box housing to the sweet spot to get the pushrods closest to centre of the tube and the valve / rocker contact right.

[gdishman]

Another stupid question, Do you do both cylinder push rod tubes? I see people talking about just the front cylinder. I have done the front cylinder tubes and the valve train is quiet a bit quieter.Thanks to all the experts here.

[FSG]

Do you do both cylinder push rod tubes?

I do them all, then they're all the same, no possible mixups.

[Don D]

When they rub at the top they also jump out of the rocker socket a bit, that is the noise, the lash created.

[hbkeith]

You don't need to go all the way through, 1-1/2" at the top is more than enough.

Use a 5/8" (0.625") drill bit, yes it's thin at the top, but there is enough there to support the O-Ring and that's all that's needed.


Do EVO tubes with same Bit ?

[Ohio HD]

You don't need to go all the way through, 1-1/2" at the top is more than enough.

Use a 5/8" (0.625") drill bit, yes it's thin at the top, but there is enough there to support the O-Ring and that's all that's needed.

Do EVO tubes with same Bit ?

      Yes, a lot of us use the earlier Evo tubes in Twin Cams to make more room for valve adjustments.

[harleytoprock]

I just bored a set on the lathe. I got chicken and stopped at .600". I was worried that some of the rolled areas would be getting thin.

[04Glider2]

04RG, ticking at mid range cruise. 21N's w SE Tapered, Rockouts and "B" lifters. Tried different PR adjustments, new exhaust gaskets. With these cams could they be rubbing? Rockouts set the rockers in place I believe.
Tried using a stethoscope, but couldn't find a specific point of noise. Throttle roll on or off and no noise. Only light cruise makes the annoying ticking. Bugs me though.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

04RG, ticking at mid range cruise. 21N's w SE Tapered, Rockouts and "B" lifters. Tried different PR adjustments, new exhaust gaskets. With these cams could they be rubbing? Rockouts set the rockers in place I believe.
Tried using a stethoscope, but couldn't find a specific point of noise. Throttle roll on or off and no noise. Only light cruise makes the annoying ticking. Bugs me though.

You can drop the tubes one at a time and hold them away from the pushrods while hitting that RPM... see if the noise stops. A little oil may drip out, not a big deal.

[Ohio HD]

Drilled them down about 1.750" from the top.

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