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full throttle woes, help with engine cutting in and out.

Started by N-gin, June 16, 2017, 09:19:04 AM

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rigidthumper

Is there enough clamp load to keep the fasteners in place? Maybe AN washers under the flange to keep spacing and clamp load?
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

feathers

my thought could you have a valve sticking? I'm not a mechanic but i have a keyboard

Admiral Akbar

The problem you are having with the manifold seals is that you are using the wrong size.  Ultima uses a 1.8" port and the OD of the spigot is likely 1.90 to 1.92".. (stock is 1.80 to 1.82) This requires a thinner seal. The fact that you cinched the manifold clamps down might have crushed the ends.  The Ultima flanges I have are the same size as stock HD.

The manifold leak is not causing your high speed miss. If it did anything it would kill throttle response off idle maybe cause a cough and rough idle. Don't know what it is tho. Could be anything. Carb or ignition. I'll let the experts here figure that out.

N-gin

Well here is an update..
I checked, double checked and triple checked the intake seals. They are good now. However still with the cutout. The decal pop has gotten better though with the sealing of the intake seals. Progress....

Quote from: Admiral Akbar on June 22, 2017, 10:21:27 PM
The problem you are having with the manifold seals is that you are using the wrong size.  Ultima uses a 1.8" port and the OD of the spigot is likely 1.90 to 1.92".. (stock is 1.80 to 1.82) This requires a thinner seal. The fact that you cinched the manifold clamps down might have crushed the ends.  The Ultima flanges I have are the same size as stock HD.

The manifold leak is not causing your high speed miss. If it did anything it would kill throttle response off idle maybe cause a cough and rough idle. Don't know what it is tho. Could be anything. Carb or ignition. I'll let the experts here figure that out.

I did match up the seals and they looked the same, however I didn't really look close. Is there a way to tell? thickness, width? They were pretty smashed themselves.

Quote from: rigidthumper on June 21, 2017, 05:06:53 PM
Is there enough clamp load to keep the fasteners in place? Maybe AN washers under the flange to keep spacing and clamp load?

I put a dab of wicking grade Loctite on the bolts and they are pretty snug now.. that green wicking is stronger than I though, hopefully its enough.
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

tmwmoose

Next time your at your indy shop get a set of S&S seals there thinner. But for the life of me I can't remember what I used on my Ultima S&S or oem :scratch:

BKACHE

Just a couple of things to check.
I had a broken copper end of my + connector to the battery. The break was inside the shrink wrap so I could not see it. The wire held it together until vibration at speed would break the connection. Once I finally started pulling on wires the break opened up and I found and fixed.
This can also be a breaker. A shop owner in NE Mpls showed me a resettable breaker that would cut in and out. Replaced and all good.
Good luck 
Dan

N-gin

Quote from: BKACHE on June 23, 2017, 05:29:31 AM
Just a couple of things to check.
I had a broken copper end of my + connector to the battery. The break was inside the shrink wrap so I could not see it. The wire held it together until vibration at speed would break the connection. Once I finally started pulling on wires the break opened up and I found and fixed.
This can also be a breaker. A shop owner in NE Mpls showed me a resettable breaker that would cut in and out. Replaced and all good.
Good luck

This bike was all apart. Even the harness. Most of everything was replaced. So it can be anything, right. All the relays and circuit breakers were replaced. Battery has cleaned and connections checked( doesn't mean they are good). I'll check them again. 

The things that gets me is it is a full on and full off effect with the throttle at WOT.  It does spit, sputter, pop, hesitate, miss, or anything like that.

The affect of the WOT problem is as if I was to open and close the throttle constantly and keep the same speed..
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

Nutoy

I know this is stupid question did you check rev limit settings? sure sounds like rev limiter to me.

N-gin

I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

1FSTRK

If you have eliminated carburation, one thing I have seen a few times with aftermarket electronic ignitions is you will get one that will not allow enough coil saturation time and with the right compression and load on the engine it will act like it is going rich in the manor you describe. I had one that did not show up until I started running it hard at about 500 miles.  If all else is ruled out I would try a known good ignition and coil combo just to rule this out.
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

N-gin

Quote from: 1FSTRK on June 26, 2017, 05:06:42 PM
If you have eliminated carburation, one thing I have seen a few times with aftermarket electronic ignitions is you will get one that will not allow enough coil saturation time and with the right compression and load on the engine it will act like it is going rich in the manor you describe. I had one that did not show up until I started running it hard at about 500 miles.  If all else is ruled out I would try a known good ignition and coil combo just to rule this out.

Ultima is going to send a ignition. This time with external settings.. I do have extra dual fire coils I can choose from. This is single fire but its easily changed. And as far as ignition i can always go back to the stocker. Everything is still on the bike, just plug it in. I'll try it if my next step doesn't work.

I rode it around today and put 100 miles on it..I'm thinking it's running low on fuel. If I short shift to the next gear it will do the same thing at WOT. And the thing that gets me is if it was ignition cutting out why does it not backfire.
I'm going to put a pingle 3/8 single out shut off in the tank and run a 3/8 hose to the carb..somthing in the back of my mind says it's running the bowl low and the 5/16 isn't enough weight to feed the carb.

I did try and pull the chock and it seemed to not do anything differently.
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

Admiral Akbar

June 26, 2017, 07:49:27 PM #36 Last Edit: June 26, 2017, 08:46:32 PM by Admiral Akbar
Quote from: 1FSTRK on June 26, 2017, 05:06:42 PM
If you have eliminated carburation, one thing I have seen a few times with aftermarket electronic ignitions is you will get one that will not allow enough coil saturation time and with the right compression and load on the engine it will act like it is going rich in the manor you describe. I had one that did not show up until I started running it hard at about 500 miles.  If all else is ruled out I would try a known good ignition and coil combo just to rule this out.

So how did you verify that it was dwell time? With an asmelloscope? Or were you just guessing?

tmwmoose


Schex3x

Rig a timing light on the bike so you can see the strobe to watch if the ignition is drops out.

Get the right intake seals, not tightening the flanges until the step bottoms out is just a rig, S&S or Cometic has the thin ones you need.




N-gin

Quote from: Schex3x on June 27, 2017, 08:37:05 AM
Rig a timing light on the bike so you can see the strobe to watch if the ignition is drops out.

Get the right intake seals, not tightening the flanges until the step bottoms out is just a rig, S&S or Cometic has the thin ones you need.

timing light keeps flashing.
got to be fuel
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind

N-gin

Problem fixed
I got a Pingle for the fuel tank, with a 3/8 outlet.
I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind