Ok guys, what kind of changes would need to be made to a stock tune when upgrading compression, ported heads and cams?
For starting and heat cycles and initial break in before going on the dyno.
Would it be as simple as adjusting the ve's and afr?
I honestly would suggest getting a start up MAP from whom ever will be tuning it.
:agree: and recommend no short cuts.
I agree with not taking short cuts. Am generally curious about what changes are made to a map for non stock cams and compression.
Quote from: johnchev89 on November 22, 2018, 04:33:19 AM
I agree with not taking short cuts. Am generally curious about what changes are made to a map for non stock cams and compression.
If just a bolt in cam change the main things would be idle (fuel and timing), Fr and Rr VE tables, Fr and Rr Timing Tables, Adjustments to some other tables like IAC, PE, AE as needed.
Changing things like exhaust, cams, head work, bigger CI kits do not just add air evenly across the board. The air curve changes are three dimensional. You will get a lot bigger gains in the sweet spot where the combo is at it's best and with some cam/exhaust combinations you may have areas that stay the same or need to be leaned slightly. The difference between the front cylinder VE table and rear cylinder VE table will vary drastically with some combos.
There just are no simple formulas or standard solutions, it comes down to each engine wants what each engine wants and the best results come from starting your sampling at the hit of the starter button and building from there.
Well I got the motor done and loaded a base map from DJ for a 110 with woods 7h cams . I massaged it a bit , fired up first try . Idle flared to 1350 then stabilised.
I let it heat up with no issues. Am gonna get a few heat cycles in it then take it to Wes for the tune.
Quote from: johnchev89 on November 29, 2018, 04:16:43 PM
Well I got the motor done and loaded a base map from DJ for a 110 with woods 7h cams . I massaged it a bit , fired up first try . Idle flared to 1350 then stabilised.
I let it heat up with no issues. Am gonna get a few heat cycles in it then take it to Wes for the tune.
What all these heat cycles do is kill the best chance for a quick break in for ring seal. I'd only do one, make sure all is well, load a decent tune and break it in on the dyno. Then proceed with the tune.
Ron
Update ....
Had the bike tuned and it runs awsome. Did 121/128.
Would post the sheet in the dyno section but is in std cf.
The horse power starts to lay over at about 5700 rpm, most likely due to the stock 50mm tb and injectors.
Quote from: johnchev89 on January 14, 2019, 05:11:04 PM
Update ....
Had the bike tuned and it runs awsome. Did 121/128.
Would post the sheet in the dyno section but is in std cf.
The horse power starts to lay over at about 5700 rpm, most likely due to the stock 50mm tb and injectors.
Sounds like a great ride.
Call Wes and have him email you a copy the graph with the SAE correction and get it posted for us along with all the build specs, more data is always welcome.