HarleyTechTalk

Get it to a dyno if it is fresh. Just start it and be sure it isn't making any odd noise and then to the dyno. An experienced operator can then begin immediately getting the warm up afr right and work on the lower speed VEs. Then it is safe to ride. No need to take it over 3500 but loading and unloading rings is a good thing, roll-ons. After 50 miles it is done and the tune can be completed. Some dyno shops just go all the way. You pick it up, change the oil and it is done. If it is not done then it will never break in. It only takes about 35 miles to break one in. Its a good idea to check the compression before the dyno and after.

Quote from: wfolarry on January 24, 2020, 02:53:36 PM
If your rebuild is the same motor as it started out [meaning it doesn't need another tune] then you have nothing to worry about.
If it needs a tune get it broken in on a dyno.
S&S is the safe method. By being careful you can catch a problem before it turns into a major problem. For the number of complete motors they sell this is good advice.
The other one is a crock of chit.
Doesn't hurt to play it safe. Make sure everything is OK. Once you're comfortable with that ride the bike & don't worry about it.
Change the oil after the first 50. That's probably the best advice.

Can you elaborate on why you feel this way on a bike that isn't in need of a tune?

Quote from: HD Street Performance on January 26, 2020, 06:36:12 PM
Get it to a dyno if it is fresh. Just start it and be sure it isn't making any odd noise and then to the dyno. An experienced operator can then begin immediately getting the warm up afr right and work on the lower speed VEs. Then it is safe to ride. No need to take it over 3500 but loading and unloading rings is a good thing, roll-ons. After 50 miles it is done and the tune can be completed. Some dyno shops just go all the way. You pick it up, change the oil and it is done. If it is not done then it will never break in. It only takes about 35 miles to break one in. Its a good idea to check the compression before the dyno and after.

I remember seeing similar advice from Chad Groves on HD forums some time ago.
I went looking for the post but couldn't find it.
From memory Chad does the heat cycles (maybe 3) and then dials in the lower VE's on the dyno for RPM's up to 3500 while monitoring AFR and engine temps.
Oil and filter change and the owner goes away to do the 500-800 miles with RPM limit of 3500.
The owner returns for the full tune up to WOT

Apologies to Chad if the numbers are wrong but that is the gist of it.
Go over there and have a look for it.

I did find this

https://youtu.be/xpoglovyy_8

What is the recommended interval between heat cycles? How much should the engine be let to cool down?

When it is cool to the touch the core is still warm.  Find something else to do for a while so the whole engine temp has equalized.

Heat cycles should be done above idle, like a constant  1500 rpm. It's about the splash.

   2 killers are idle and lugging.

Quote from: kd on January 27, 2020, 07:50:45 AM
When it is cool to the touch the core is still warm.  Find something else to do for a while so the whole engine temp has equalized.

That likely won't be feasible during my ride home. It would mean the ride would take five hours or so, and I'd get caught in stop-and-go commute traffic. I'll need to compromise on the cool down.

I probably would too.  It would also likely mean you'd be driving impaired too.   

Quote from: kd on January 27, 2020, 10:07:07 AM
I probably would too.  It would also likely mean you'd be driving impaired too.   

Yup!

Quote from: Jim Bronson on January 27, 2020, 09:56:09 AM

Quote from: kd on January 27, 2020, 07:50:45 AM
When it is cool to the touch the core is still warm.  Find something else to do for a while so the whole engine temp has equalized.

That likely won't be feasible during my ride home. It would mean the ride would take five hours or so, and I'd get caught in stop-and-go commute traffic. I'll need to compromise on the cool down.

Rent a trailer. You paid some pretty good money for the work done, you've gotten some good advice here, and you just used the word compromise, hoping for the best. Get it home so you can be more in control of the break-in procedure.
Or, pay to have it done properly on a Dyno. In six months, you will not miss that money from the Dyno break-in, but you will miss the money and downtime you might have to spend again if the motor gets damaged right at the beginning of it's new life.
Of course, you might have no problems at all. But it will be the most nerve-wracking ride you will ever take. Like Clint said, do you feel lucky?

I called the shop today. The parts just arrived on Friday, so it probably won't be done until late in the week at the earliest. I'll probably wait until Monday, since we're expecting a cool period with highs in the 60s and lower in the mountains. They said they need time to 'size' the parts before assembly. They also said they perform four heat cycles before going for a short ride. I think I'm in good hands. The  first stop on the way home will be a casino with a huge parking lot that is mostly unused on weekdays, so I will be able to park perpendicular to the wind to help with the cool down.

If they are already doing 4 heat cycles for you I would just ride it home, do your oil change if you desire and be done with it.

When I bought my 2010 it had 5-6 miles on it. I started it up, let it idle until the jugs were warm and rode it 1/2 mile to fill up on gas. I was there for 15-20 minutes so it cooled down so I started it up and let it idle for a minute or two again, then hit the highway. I ran it easy through the gears a few times and rode it 150 miles home. It didn't use much oil at all and ran good, until I decided to "improve" it!

Quote from: smoserx1 on January 27, 2020, 01:25:50 PM
If they are already doing 4 heat cycles for you I would just ride it home, do your oil change if you desire and be done with it.

I think I'll stick with my original plan. The casino has an outstanding buffet, and I can easily kill a couple of hours there. It will be over three weeks without riding, so I'm up for a little extra detour through the back roads.

That should work just fine. Good luck, congrats on the new build. I know 3 weeks without being able to ride (when it's not winter) would make me crazy.

Patience wins the day every time.