Its a 2016 883 spt , low mileage ,i have adjusted the clutch twice, no results, the oil its a 20/50 W ,now will check primary chain tension, what else????
The chain could be too loose
The chain could be too tensioned
Evo
I assume you are the original owner?
If not, don't get flustered, I sometime have trouble trouble on mine too.
Only thing I can say at this point is to gently up from first, maybe take a couple of times passing neutral, back to neutral.
Not unusual.
Worst maybe if you are not the original owner the original owner may have been abusive to shifting (pounding) hard and bent a trans fork. (I doubt that happened)
Clutch worn......stretched clutch cable......are you adjusting the cable per service manual?
You do have a HD service manual don't you?
Feed back please.
I have found that sometimes I need to bring the rpms up with the clutch handle in to slip it into neutral.
Had issues with my 93 1200 also, all was good, clutch and primary, did it mostly when hot, when the wife became the primary rider of that bike I put an easy clutch lever and changed the primary fluids to something other than Harley fluids, the brand name eludes me now :scratch: so much better shifting and getting back to N
As someone who does tech support all day every day, I run into this question all the time. My apologies if you already know the following, but you'd be amazed at how many people don't ...
It's imperative that all three steps are followed when adjusting a clutch:
- Full slack in the cable
- Adjust at the clutch
- Adjust cable for proper free play at the lever
If you skip step 1, it's likely the ramp assembly ends up over-rotated which screws up the geometry and results in less clutch disengagement. The arc that the ramp assembly's cable attachment travels in needs to be centered properly to get full clutch actuation, and when it's too far forward, you get less motion. It's like rocker arm geometry that way. So you have to put full slack into the cable, and even push the arm all the way rearward, before you adjust the clutch screw.
Now that said, even when the clutch is adjusted properly it can be difficult to find neutral. I'm kind of in the habit of finding neutral while I'm still rolling, approaching my stop. But an effective technique while sitting still is to just blip the throttle slightly while sitting there with the clutch fully in and applying slight upward pressure on the shifter. It'll slip right in.
Quote from: aswracing on June 29, 2018, 08:21:03 AM
As someone who does tech support all day every day, I run into this question all the time. My apologies if you already know the following, but you'd be amazed at how many people don't ...
It's imperative that all three steps are followed when adjusting a clutch:
- Full slack in the cable
- Adjust at the clutch
- Adjust cable for proper free play at the lever
If you skip step 1, it's likely the ramp assembly ends up over-rotated which screws up the geometry and results in less clutch disengagement. The arc that the ramp assembly's cable attachment travels in needs to be centered properly to get full clutch actuation, and when it's too far forward, you get less motion. It's like rocker arm geometry that way. So you have to put full slack into the cable, and even push the arm all the way rearward, before you adjust the clutch screw.
Now that said, even when the clutch is adjusted properly it can be difficult to find neutral. I'm kind of in the habit of finding neutral while I'm still rolling, approaching my stop. But an effective technique while sitting still is to just blip the throttle slightly while sitting there with the clutch fully in and applying slight upward pressure on the shifter. It'll slip right in.
Yup to all of that.
Would be nice to get some feed back. :nix:
The last paragraph in "ASWRACING's" post is all you need to know. If for some reason you can't downshift while rolling to a stop, use the rev-and-search method he described.