Replacing the front head (crash damage) on an '18 FXFBS 114 with the stage 4 kit 114 to 117, I found it very difficult to separate the head from cylinder, I had to use nylon wedges to get it apart. I didn't do the original install but it doesn't appear any adhesive was used. Anyone else experience this?
Quote from: Billy on November 09, 2018, 04:20:32 AM
Replacing the front head (crash damage) on an '18 FXFBS 114 with the stage 4 kit 114 to 117, I found it very difficult to separate the head from cylinder, I had to use nylon wedges to get it apart. I didn't do the original install but it doesn't appear any adhesive was used. Anyone else experience this?
Yes. I pulled heads off of an SE, stage 4, 114 just last week. The coating that the mfg puts on those gaskets is some tough stuff.
I thought it was hard to get the front head off until I attempted to remove the rear head. It was stuck like nothing I have ever seen.
I ended up having to take a thin metal scraper and drive it between the rear head and cylinder.
I'll be using Cometic in the future, never had a problem with them sealing and they come apart without issue, not to mention the $ savings, one SE gasket was like $42. retail.
https://rssd.cld.bz/Cometic-Gasket/6/#zoom=z (https://rssd.cld.bz/Cometic-Gasket/6/#zoom=z)
https://www.denniskirk.com/cometic/gaskets-and-seals/2017-harley-davidson-street-glide-flhx.mmy/1.pg (https://www.denniskirk.com/cometic/gaskets-and-seals/2017-harley-davidson-street-glide-flhx.mmy/1.pg)
I have to remove the heads and cylinders on countless M8 engines now . Many are for diamond cut and powder coat Just took a 19 apart with 4.8 miles and the heads where really on there .
And I had the entire engine on the bench as well .
On avg I have 2-3 apart each week right now most are just BB kit cam swap nothing really crazy .
Biggest thing I hate is how some are so bound up in the frame Many I have to use a strap and pull the engine to one side to remove front motor mount bolts ( extreme bind in many cases )
Common practice when removing the top front mounts is to jack under the front primary case to tip the motor over and allow removal of the bolts ......another nice design flaw from the mother ship :SM:
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on November 15, 2018, 07:34:52 AM
I have to remove the heads and cylinders on countless M8 engines now .
Biggest thing I hate is how some are so bound up in the frame Many I have to use a strap and pull the engine to one side to remove front motor mount bolts ( extreme bind in many cases )
Quote from: HV on November 24, 2018, 02:57:12 AM
Common practice when removing the top front mounts is to jack under the front primary case to tip the motor over and allow removal of the bolts ......another nice design flaw from the mother ship :SM:
Is this with all of the models?
Are you saying the engine is putting the mount under preload when everything is assembled and tightened, or you just have the move things to the side once loose to get the bolts in and out?
was deer hunting . did not get a chance to get back .
So Yes it is Very bound up. and lifting will not always solve the issue . In many cases the front cylinder when un bolted will snap to the right side of the bike. On some you cannot un bolt then with out damaging the threads its so bad . Think Entire bolt hole on frame type of movement .
I will try to remember to take pics of the next one .. They are not all bad but for the most part not great lets put it that way. Further I am shocked when one is lined up and you can just slide the bolts in maybe that makes more sense
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on November 25, 2018, 05:12:42 AM
was deer hunting . did not get a chance to get back .
So Yes it is Very bound up. and lifting will not always solve the issue . In many cases the front cylinder when un bolted will snap to the right side of the bike. On some you cannot un bolt then with out damaging the threads is so bad . Think Entire bolt ole on frame type of movement .
I will try to remember to take pics of the next one .. They are not all bad but for the most part not great lets put it that way. Further I am shocked when one is lined up and you can just slide the bolts in maybe that makes more sense
This sounds like the same thing we saw with many 1999-06 dynas. I had one that you had to pry the top over to get bolts in and out. When the bolts were out the entire drive train would flop until the top of the rear tire would hit the fender, it was under a ton of pressure and was one of the famous wobble bikes.
I had read somewhere else and tried it tonight...jack the back of the bike up to get the rear tire in the air then a jack under the front left motor mount. Motor moves right over easily.
Quote from: Billy on November 09, 2018, 06:50:28 AM
I'll be using Cometic in the future, never had a problem with them sealing and they come apart without issue, not to mention the $ savings, one SE gasket was like $42. retail.
https://rssd.cld.bz/Cometic-Gasket/6/#zoom=z (https://rssd.cld.bz/Cometic-Gasket/6/#zoom=z)
https://www.denniskirk.com/cometic/gaskets-and-seals/2017-harley-davidson-street-glide-flhx.mmy/1.pg (https://www.denniskirk.com/cometic/gaskets-and-seals/2017-harley-davidson-street-glide-flhx.mmy/1.pg)
Thanks, but I don't see a listing for a thinner 0.030 0r .027 HG on Dennis Kirk site for softails... anywhere else you can order them from?
Thanks
Adam the local Harley shop should be able to get them in, I usually get mine from Suncity Harley, normally on the shelf.
Quote from: Hilly13 on January 09, 2019, 11:14:11 PM
Adam the local Harley shop should be able to get them in, I usually get mine from Suncity Harley, normally on the shelf.
👍👍 thanks hilly