Hello Everyone -
1995 FLHT with 69K miles. I have owned it since new. It is stock, no modifications. No majorm problems. I don't beat on it. Excellent bike I will never sell it.
While the rear wheel is off for new tires, I was planning to replace the rear drive pulley with new OEM 40217-79A which I have. The existing pulley is showing some slight signs of chrome flaking but is otherwise very good. The belt appears excellent in all respects.
My question is whether to apply any Loctite to the rear pulley bolts. My FSM (99483-95A) is clear:
"Cast Wheels: Install sprocket and secure with five bolts and washers (13). Tighten bolts to 55-65 ft-lbs (75-88 Nm) torque."
It does NOT specify Loctite. It does NOT specify the use of new bolts.
Normally I follow the FSM exactly, but after reading online it appears that H-D has specified Loctite for later model TC bikes. (I'm not sure that this is true, but it seems Loctite is commonly used).
My question: Should I follow the FSM, or should I use Loctite?
I would think if any Loctite were used it should be blue, not red.
Thanks much Everyone for any guidance or advice!
George
I've used red several times, and a little heat on the bolt head gave no problem getting the bolts back out. I have re-used bolts also with no problems.
I have a 94' FLHTC and My 93-94 FSM says the same thing. I have used a little Blue Loctite on them without any bad results.
My Nephew has a 98' FLHTC. Back in June We were changing His Belt and Rear Pulley. The 1998 FSM states to add two drops of Red Loctite #271 to the Pulley Bolts. Not really sure what the difference is unless HD left that info out of the earlier manuals.
Both Manuals say to tighten and torque the Bolts to 55-65 foot pounds for a Cast Wheel.
I'd be using some loctite. And New bolts.
We had some 1985-1988 FXRPs that had the bolts work loose over time.
Retightened with blue 242 since they don't have lockwashers. They may have had the white stuff on them orignally that HD often uses.
I recently replaced the rear pulley on my bike. I used split lockwashers and blue Loc-tite.
Just remember, if you're using Loc-tite...failure to scrupulously clean the bolt holes will negate the value of the thread locker, whatever your choice.
Caterpillar doesn't use split lockwashers anywhere on their machines. Hardened/thick platwashers is all they use. Just sayin.
Quote from: fbn ent on August 27, 2022, 07:27:25 AMCaterpillar doesn't use split lockwashers anywhere on their machines. Hardened/thick platwashers is all they use. Just sayin.
yeah I imagine that equipment generates a LOT of torque.
Thanks much for the feedback Gentlemen.
I will plan to use some blue Loctite when I perform the replacement.
George
I use Red
I use Loctite, and lock washers if there's room for them. :up:
John
Sorry I'm late on this and I'm no pro but I just wanted to add: I have a 2011 FLHRC and the factory SM specifies Loctite 262 (it's red too). I personally would not use 271 or 272 as they are designed for a more permanent placement.
New bolts are cheap and I agree with others who say to use them. The Loctite or Permatex clean and prep spray (spray on bolt threads and let dry before applying thread locker) does a great job of helping the thread locker cure in lesser time.
Lastly, cleaning the threads in the hub is very important. I spray them with brake clean, (edit: run a thread chaser thru them) and then use Q-tips to make sure those threads are clean, clean. Takes some patience but give real peace of mind. Bill
Ok, I had a pretty good :bf: there. The 2011 FLHRC has the cushdrive pully so no bolts involved. I replaced the pully bolts on my 99 FLHR this past Spring. I must have been thinking of 262 from doing the Dark Horse Man o War compensator earlier this year. Their installation instructions specify that stuff and they also call for using the clean and prime. Figured if that stuff was good enough to hold that on then it was good enough to hold the pulley bolts on. The 99 SM says to use a drop or two 271 if reusing the same bolts. I' ok w/ the 262 and new bolts that have been primed.