Hello all,
Winter's approaching so I'm planning a few of my future bike projects. I have a '49 (with a '53 right side case) that has a jug base oil leak where the internal top end oil passage is (on the front jug RH side). Was thinking of a couple of ways to handle.
I could pull the front head and lift the front jug up just enough to "goop" around the oil passage (and the rest of the base gasket) and re-seat. I could pull the jug and replace the gasket without honing and replacing the front rings. I could pull the jug, hone the cylinder, replace the gasket and reuse the same rings. Or I could do the same and both hone and replace rings.
The bike only has a couple of seasons on a complete rebuild the way it sets now, so there are no issues with smoking, valves, etc.
As with most things, there's the "right" way and then there's "the way that will also work for less time, effort, and money" - just wondering what you guys think.
Don't pull the piston out of the jug,and you won't have to hone,or replace rings.
Pulling the cylinder off does not preclude that you need to re-ring or hone.
i have done this a few times myself..... i slipped the jug off, put on a new gasket, put the jug back on without honing, new rings, or anything. As long as everything stays clean i have never had a problem. The key is to use new gaskets when re-assembly.
As someone told me many years ago.....think "farm equipment".
-Dave
Quote from: Harpo on October 11, 2019, 10:49:51 AM
Hello all,
Winter's approaching so I'm planning a few of my future bike projects. I have a '49 (with a '53 right side case) that has a jug base oil leak where the internal top end oil passage is (on the front jug RH side). Was thinking of a couple of ways to handle.
I could pull the front head and lift the front jug up just enough to "goop" around the oil passage (and the rest of the base gasket) and re-seat. I could pull the jug and replace the gasket without honing and replacing the front rings. I could pull the jug, hone the cylinder, replace the gasket and reuse the same rings. Or I could do the same and both hone and replace rings.
The bike only has a couple of seasons on a complete rebuild the way it sets now, so there are no issues with smoking, valves, etc.
As with most things, there's the "right" way and then there's "the way that will also work for less time, effort, and money" - just wondering what you guys think.
Hmmm, case halves from different year groups. That could be an issue. Only a couple of seasons on a complete rebuild? Where those cases ever decked after being paired up? That new base gasket will not hold for very long if the deck surfaces aren't true to each other.
That stuff about needing to redone after unseating the rings is an old wives tale passed around by internet experts that have read posts by other internet experts. It is simply not true.
Quote from: turboprop on October 15, 2019, 12:29:36 PM
Quote from: Harpo on October 11, 2019, 10:49:51 AM
Hello all,
Winter's approaching so I'm planning a few of my future bike projects. I have a '49 (with a '53 right side case) that has a jug base oil leak where the internal top end oil passage is (on the front jug RH side). Was thinking of a couple of ways to handle.
I could pull the front head and lift the front jug up just enough to "goop" around the oil passage (and the rest of the base gasket) and re-seat. I could pull the jug and replace the gasket without honing and replacing the front rings. I could pull the jug, hone the cylinder, replace the gasket and reuse the same rings. Or I could do the same and both hone and replace rings.
The bike only has a couple of seasons on a complete rebuild the way it sets now, so there are no issues with smoking, valves, etc.
As with most things, there's the "right" way and then there's "the way that will also work for less time, effort, and money" - just wondering what you guys think.
Hmmm, case halves from different year groups. That could be an issue. Only a couple of seasons on a complete rebuild? Where those cases ever decked after being paired up? That new base gasket will not hold for very long if the deck surfaces aren't true to each other.
That stuff about needing to redone after unseating the rings is an old wives tale passed around by internet experts that have read posts by other internet experts. It is simply not true.
^^^^^^^^^ What he said. :up:
Thanks all for the input. It gives me a little bit of direction and puts the mind at ease. Yes the cases are all decked/matched but that's a good observation/concern anyway. Keep the Pans runnin'!
Make sure the cylinder bases are flat too. Cometic rubber coated cyl. base gaskets too.
Have someone help you or figure out a way to hold things steady.Trying to put a piston clip in with one hand isn't easy if you have never tried to do it this way before.
Thought you all might like to know what I found to be the cause of the leak. The lower cylinder base gasket, which is the metal type with the raised rubber like bead, from a famous manufacturer of gaskets whose name starts with the letter "J", blew a section of the rubber beading out that was right around the pressure oil feed hole. Got the cylinder, head and carb back on it this weekend. Used a different manufacturer's gasket though. Anyways thanks for all your guys' help/comments.
Did you use the Foamet gaskets, they work really well.