Have a set of White Brotheers Porker pipes, 2-1/4" OD that are wearing out.(cracks & scratches) They got bought out by Vance & Hines. Contacted them, no longer made. Any suggestions of anything cllose to these drag pipes? Thanks, Frank
Vance and Hines Longshots?
Might call RB Racing, see if they will make a set of Nitro Duals for your shovel.
Quote from: Hossamania on August 11, 2018, 06:40:51 AM
Vance and Hines Longshots?
I forgot I was in the Shovel section, I doubt they make anything for that.
Do you have a picture or description of what you're looking for? Traditional drag style, or straight cut long pipe?
Page 8, 12 down, show them shovels thread. They are straight cut drags, but 2-1/4". a_disalvo
Fat drag pipes are worse than regular drag pipes when it comes to performance.
A proper exhaust can behave like a super charger.
Look at a V&H Pro Pipe or a Bassani 2:1 or a Thunder header, or a Super Trapp 2:1.
Because its a Shovel you will have to make your own.
The last one I did I started with a factory 2:1 pipe that had the big sausage muffler,
I threw away the heavy muffler and cut up an EVO 2:1 megaphone and merge that i got at the swap meet for $10.
I used the Harley 2:1 head pipes because it has a long pipe for the rear cylinder, this has a big benefit for low RPM torque.
Do this and you will find power you never realized your motor had, it will run smoother and start easier.
Porker Pipes, Big Guns, Long Guns, Fat Shots, etc, etc, etc, all are power-killers.
Those would be of better use installed under your bathroom sink.
Big on noise, short on power.
With Cycle Shack down the crapper, the selection for shovelhead exhaust has gotten might thin. Maybe check out Paughco, they still have some reasonable offerings. As long as you don't live in California...
-JW
I got some nice 40" drags for my three bolt flange Ultima Shovel heads a couple months ago. I had to slot the front pipe holes a little to get it clocked right, and used vise grips to bend the rear pipe at the flange end to square it with the opening. Those were actually minor tweaks. They look and sound great to me.
Al, from S&S tech some years ago told me to drill a hole 1" from the end of each pipe and mount a 1/4" bolt there. It reduces the torque and power dip that occurs from about 2600 to 3200 rpm. They were doing dyno runs, and he held a screwdriver flat against the pipe end, and gained a few foot-pounds of torque and three ponies in midrange. I did my Paughco drags as stated.
Wiseguy
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f350/williamneely999/1A2FA681-3F3E-4413-8608-82BE3E99A34D_zps0sjldoec.png) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/williamneely999/media/1A2FA681-3F3E-4413-8608-82BE3E99A34D_zps0sjldoec.png.html)
IF ya gota have them Midwest has there "Growl" line of pipes
2 identical bikes, 1 with jamma-mamma 2 1/4" monster noise makers, the other with an OE head pipe, S/E slip-on mufflers.............gps will be needed for #1.
Many many moons before I went to a Thunderheader I did the bolt thing on my long straight pipes. I don't really know if I had any huge gains in performance but it got rid of the carb reversion that was messing with the tune, not to mention messing with my irritated passenger's leg....or was it her irritated leg?
1/4" bolt, with 5/16" nuts(1/2" obstruction) in a 1 3/4" open pipe.....seen as much as 14 ft/lbs of low-end torque increase on a 74" Iron XL, before.
Even my brother Craig's (RIP) Lieneweber L6/S&S G-equipped 103" Shovel responded to the stacked bolts with an 1 3/4" pipe.
Testing years ago showed that a 2" pipe killed the entire power curve.