not sure how to proceed but prefer not to pull the transmission if I can avoid it. The drain plug won't tighten... or back out...it spins with a wrench....not finger loose yet...can't remember the last time I had it out.....hadn't really had a leak there...yet. I've tried grabbing it with vise grips and pulling down while turning but no love...I'm sure the 'proper' way to repair would be remove and disassemble to a bare case but....figured if I could get the plug out I could hopefully install a time sert. ...any other ideas appreciated...
I doubt you have room to install a time cert without removing and taking it apart to fix the thread permanently.
I think you're only help will be an oversize self tapping plug.
Even with a self tapping plug, you should try to flush the transmission out with kerosene to get rid of any bits of aluminum.
I still have to get the plug out first..... :scratch:
Drive the edge of a putty knife under the head of the plug, and use that to put some pressure on the treads and pry the plug out. Then like they said above, use an oversize plug to spin back in.
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on January 21, 2022, 08:34:19 PMDrive the edge of a putty knife under the head of the plug, and use that to put some pressure on the treads and pry the plug out. Then like they said above, use an oversize plug to spin back in.
-JW
how about a 2 prong wedge with a handle that would go both sides of the thread
I like the two prong wedge / shim, that may allow him to strip the last couple threads so it falls out. :up:
By 2 prong wedge I'm seeing a V shaped tool in my mind....kinda like what we called a dandelion digger ? I'll have to look and see what I got. I can't see any threads but I'll give it a try...tried a sharp putty knife....not gonna be quik n easy I don't think....but I got time and patience.... :smiled:
Quote from: thumpr54 on January 24, 2022, 09:26:17 PMBy 2 prong wedge I'm seeing a V shaped tool in my mind....kinda like what we called a dandelion digger ? I'll have to look and see what I got. I can't see any threads but I'll give it a try...tried a sharp putty knife....not gonna be quik n easy I don't think....but I got time and patience.... :smiled:
yes thats what i meana similar tool to what mechanics use to remove ball joints on cars
Something like this, maybe a little grinding to modify it to fit better.
Pry tools (https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200677470_200677470?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Auto%20Body%20Repair%20%3E%20Auto%20Body%20Tools&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=54736&gclid=CjwKCAiA3L6PBhBvEiwAINlJ9O4ps36MUbhSI3JfhwLWuYDKYGee9heDv9qggfePIKUiMPJTgQs2-xoCUZMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Yeah I was thinking something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Prybar-15-in-High-Carbon-Steel-Wrecking-Bar/4777015#preview-reviews
And yes, probably have to grind/file the end down a bit to get it started under the head of the plug.
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on January 25, 2022, 12:56:21 PMYeah I was thinking something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Prybar-15-in-High-Carbon-Steel-Wrecking-Bar/4777015#preview-reviews
And yes, probably have to grind/file the end down a bit to get it started under the head of the plug.
-JW
thats the tool with some mods needed
Thanx, guys....Got it...that was fun....I had a couple crowbar type tools that were a little too wide..one was a really old Craftsman short crowbar that I got from my Dad and I'm pretty sure was my Grandad's....usually use it for pulling nails....but was able to use a putty knife...tap it in the grove below(above in this situation) the head and turn the plug a flat or 2...then tap it in again working around...probably had a patient hour in it before seeing any progress...then maybe another 20 minutes and it plopped out. Once I had a wider groove I could use a long flat blade screwdriver and pry it apart as I turned the plug. ....now to let it drain all the way...already had the kicker cover off but still a cup or so of oil.
and another question.....I make out this plug to be a 1/2"x13NC thread...and it had a brass? washer. There's no magnet on it like the newer ones...which I believe are fine thread....any reasons not to change the threads and put a newer plug in with a magnet...and an o-ring ?....would I need to bevel the opening for the o-ring ? I've run a dowel up in it to check and it seems there's room to drill and tap for new threads....it's sitting upright on a lift and no room for a drill so I'd have to drill it by hand wither way...
Before taking a drill to it, try an oversize drain plug, made for this very issue. And use a nylon washer, with teflon tape on the threads of the plug.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7041011?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&store=40055&campaign=GSC-Fuel-Emissions&campaign_id=10951730297&adgroup_id=113117085528&adtype=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzuGcqsXS9QIVIxXUAR2kcA_uEAQYASABEgKydPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&
-JW
makes sense...less cost...less labor....just clean it up good and leave the buggered threads the way they are and screw in the oversize plug with washer ?
If you look at the plug, it has slots cut in the starting end. That is called a "self-tapping" plug. It's designed to cut new threads into the existing hogged out hole. You will need to turn the plug in like 1/4 turn, back off, repeat, until you get into the final oversize threads. Just like using a tap. Then need to clean it, and the oil tank out, to get all the chips out. Using a magnet in the hole is a good start, then rags and solvent of your choice. If you want to go the extra mile, pour some kerosene in the tank to flush it from the inside out.
-JW
:up: Thanx
Picked up the os plug...and thinking...not sure how much a magnet is gonna get me....not a steel oil bag.....working on a transmission case...aluminum...magnet ain't gonna get those chips...but I'll flush it...thanx for the ideas...