HarleyTechTalk

A new tool showed up yesterday. I'd been wanting to get the Jim's piston jet tester stand. They recently came out with one that mounts both TC and M8 jets, and I wanted to wait on that unit to come back in stock.

Is it overkill to test these? I don't believe it is. I have a lot of cash tied up in this motor project. I want to know that when the jets are in, they open when they should, and shut off when they should. As well that they spray oil with some consistency.

Jets that don't open when they should, or not at all can cause a motor to run a little hotter. Not shutting off can cause additional oil in the sump, overwhelming the oil pump at idle or just off idle. A small investment in a high dollar motor build.


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I made something similar a decade ago, but never thought to sell it...
I drilled, and tapped, an old tour pack spacer, added a schrader valve, cut that off flush, then used my air shock pump to check for stuck squirters.

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Looks good to me.   

With the help of don at hdsp I have been testing M8 and twin cam oilers for a long time by modifying my twin cam oiler tester
Jimmy

I just ordered all new HD OEM chrome motor covers in gloss black. I want this motor, black, black, black. I even ordered black chrome hardware set for the motor and driveline.

I found that the company Midwest Acorn Nuts is repackaging for Drag Specialties.

Midwest Acorn Nuts


Same exact package and hardware that Drag Specialties sells. Seeing they buy them from Midwest Acorn Nuts.


And less expensive. They look as good as DS brand, as this who DS buys from. nd about $60.00 a set less expensive.

Another new tool idea for the guy who like tools and perfection.

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/enginelabs-tool-of-the-month-summit-piston-ring-squaring-tool/
Bob

I saw that about 2 weeks ago.  There are many other tools for the same job for less money.  I like that this one covers more size bores without needing to repurchase a new version to fit.  If you do a lot of engine work it especially makes sense.

Quote from: FXDBI on May 01, 2022, 11:31:31 AMAnother new tool idea for the guy who like tools and perfection.

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/enginelabs-tool-of-the-month-summit-piston-ring-squaring-tool/
Bob

Man oh man Bob....               I ordered it....     

Here's the ring squaring tool that Bob made me buy.


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It's a very well made tool. Maybe on the overkill side, but that's why I like it.

I heard from Darkhorse. Four more weeks till they see the rods from Carrillo. I figure I rode this horse (pun intended) this long, may as well stay on this trail. No one else in the world has the rods in stock anyway. I did find one place that "might" have a set. They're supposed to call me tomorrow. 

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 05, 2022, 06:25:36 PMI heard from Darkhorse. Four more weeks till they see the rods from Carrillo. I figure I rode this horse (pun intended) this long, may as well stay on this trail. No one else in the world has the rods in stock anyway. I did find one place that "might" have a set. They're supposed to call me tomorrow. 

Probably won't work for your application, but maybe. I have a never been run set of Carrillo rods for a TC, 8" center to center. Yours if you can use them. No strings, givebacks, I am not responsible for anything, etc, etc.


PS - Admins, no need to get your panties in a wod, nothing being sold here.

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 05, 2022, 06:20:20 PMHere's the ring squaring tool that Bob made me buy.

I've noticed that he's free with the $$$$ 

Quote from: turboprop on May 05, 2022, 06:47:33 PM

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 05, 2022, 06:25:36 PMI heard from Darkhorse. Four more weeks till they see the rods from Carrillo. I figure I rode this horse (pun intended) this long, may as well stay on this trail. No one else in the world has the rods in stock anyway. I did find one place that "might" have a set. They're supposed to call me tomorrow. 

Probably won't work for your application, but maybe. I have a never been run set of Carrillo rods for a TC, 8" center to center. Yours if you can use them. No strings, givebacks, I am not responsible for anything, etc, etc.


PS - Admins, no need to get your panties in a wod, nothing being sold here.

Thank you for the offer, as I know it's genuine.

You're right, I'm setup for 7.66" rods. I'd have to make some major changes to use 8.00" rods.
They'll eventually show up. 

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 05, 2022, 06:20:20 PMHere's the ring squaring tool that Bob made me buy.

   Yes I had to really twist your arm to invest in such a fine looking new tool.
I am jealous now.  Bob

Quote from: FXDBI on May 05, 2022, 10:40:05 PM

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 05, 2022, 06:20:20 PMHere's the ring squaring tool that Bob made me buy.

   Yes I had to really twist your arm to invest in such a fine looking new tool.
I am jealous now.  Bob

You should be.   

Have you used the tool?  Is it worth it over a piston and two pins?

Haven't used it yet, but it'll be worth it to me.

My method has been using four aluminum spacers that were the same height. Place the piston ring into the top of the cylinder, about an inch into the cylinder. Place the cylinder upside down on my steel flat work bench. Place the spacers at 90° intervals around the bore. Press the ring down to all four spacers, flip the cylinder, and measure carefully. 

This tool will allow me to measure the gap while the tool is in place. Assuring that the ring is square to the bore.

I need it, it's a tool.

I was taught.  Put cylinder on bench top up.  Put ring in cylinder at top.  Put two pins in the piston to be used and have them meet in the middle of piston.  Flip piston upside down and push ring down until pins hit top of cylinder and rock piston.  Rotate piston 90 and rock again.  This works with most pistons that come through.  The rocking is what brings this method into question and maybe why I will purchase tool.  Besides, it's a tool I don't have.

Quote from: hrdtail78 on May 06, 2022, 01:05:14 PMI was taught.  Put cylinder on bench top up.  Put ring in cylinder at top.  Put two pins in the piston to be used and have them meet in the middle of piston.  Flip piston upside down and push ring down until pins hit top of cylinder and rock piston.  Rotate piston 90 and rock again.  This works with most pistons that come through.  The rocking is what brings this method into question and maybe why I will purchase tool.  Besides, it's a tool I don't have.

Exactly.   

Quote from: hrdtail78 on May 06, 2022, 01:05:14 PMI was taught.  Put cylinder on bench top up.  Put ring in cylinder at top.  Put two pins in the piston to be used and have them meet in the middle of piston.  Flip piston upside down and push ring down until pins hit top of cylinder and rock piston.  Rotate piston 90 and rock again.  This works with most pistons that come through.  The rocking is what brings this method into question and maybe why I will purchase tool.  Besides, it's a tool I don't have.

If you buy one just remember its Ohio's fault not mine.   Bob

OK, I did a quick test of the tool. Works as it should, squares up the ring very easily. You can reach into the bore on both side of the tool, and lift the ring against the tool face at both sides of the tool, the gap becomes aligned very easily.


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Since I pulled the cylinders out to check the ring gap, it was optimum time to measure the bore and document everything. Average piston to bore clearance is 0.003". I'm going to have 0.0018" thickness of abradable coating put on the piston skirts.

Below are the measurements I took. I took them several times to insure I was repeatable in measuring. All in all I think Hammer Performance did a good job. The measurements through the length of the bore are very tight. 

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If you go into "Home Made Tools" I've put up pictures of what I use to square rings in the cylinders. I used some aluminum drops on the smaller bore cylinders. On the larger bores I use PVC pipe with the bottom OD turned down to fit the bore. Cost just about nothing, and works as well as any $$$ magic squaring tool.
John

Waiting on parts, I'm just doing a few things here and there to keep this in motion. Today I decided to drill the S&S cases for OEM Harley oiling rather than use the S&S rubber oil lines. 

I bought the Vulcan fixture for drilling the case. It comes with a new drill bit, and three plugs to fill the case where you remove the S&S rubber oil line fittings.

The vent hole you drill going completely through the case into the cam chest area. Before starting duct tape up all of the openings in the case and cover the bearings. I drilled the vent hole first to get a feel of how the aluminum case would drill. The material S&S uses is 356-T6 aircraft grade aluminum, and it's pretty tough. using a larger drill bit, a 3/8" without a smaller pilot hole, the drilling is slow. Drilling this one first is the thickest part of the case you'll drill, and you can't hardly screw up, so I suggest starting here.

The return and feed lines, when you drill them you intersect with the two lines S&S drilled from the lower side of the case where their fittings are. A good tip I got from John Sachs is to insert a steel bar into the hole S&S drilled, that way when you break through you hit the steel bar and not blast through and hit the other side of the case wall. I used a long steel round center punch. Once you hit the bar or punch. You can remove the punch and carefully drill through the rest of your hole without heavy pressure on the drill. I used grease to lube the bit and pulled the bit often and cleaned away the drill shavings, and relube, drill some more.

You can see where I used an allen wrench to show how deep the S&S hole is, and that it intersects with where the Vulcan fixture will drill. Hopefully S&S doesn't change their drilling locations. Before drilling you remove the three fittings S&S installed. And afterwards after cleaning out the cases well, you plug the S&S oil passage opening with the three plugs Vulcan supplies.   

Not hard to do, but not for the faint of heart. Check where you're drilling before you drill. take your time and do it right. I would think a shop would charge $100 to do this. You can't just chop at it and look later. But it's not rocket science, and the fixture is almost $200 retail. Vulcan also sells additional plugs for when you drill the next set of cases.


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