My Bikers Choice rep want's Me to try this battery for the season. Does anybody have any feedback on these battery's or safety issues?
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m18/tattoo66/IMG_3377_zpsprpghm0z.jpg) (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/tattoo66/media/IMG_3377_zpsprpghm0z.jpg.html)
I'm interested in your testing results as I have a 01 Dyna with an S&S T124 that likes to eat std 19A HD batteries. V Twin makes a 400cca replacement in the Lithium lineup. I do know that Lithium batteries do not like cold, and can respond sluggishly to it. It has always been my understanding that all lithium type batteries require their own special type of charger to prevent over/ under charging.
Please keep us informed of your thoughts and results. Buffalo
I have the charger ordered and will be here tomorrow, $39.00 retail. My question is why would it need a special charger but can use the OEM charging system when the bike is running and charging?
Quote from: Tattoo on February 17, 2016, 12:27:12 PM
My Bikers Choice rep want's Me to try this battery for the season. Does anybody have any feedback on these battery's or safety issues?
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m18/tattoo66/IMG_3377_zpsprpghm0z.jpg) (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/tattoo66/media/IMG_3377_zpsprpghm0z.jpg.html)
Been running lithiums for years-
Is that the bagger battery with 625 CCA?
What are the dimensions?
If as advertised, it is stronger than the strongest Shorai (which at 500 cca's didn't live up to CCA actual results for me, and was a poor power base for big twins. Also cheaper than the Antigravity for 625 CCA.
Need some details as to how it cranks, how much it drops when cranking, and how it holds a charge.
Looks like the case is very solid.
These guys could be a major player in the market if all shakes out...
Quote from: Buffalo on February 17, 2016, 01:20:19 PM
I'm interested in your testing results as I have a 01 Dyna with an S&S T124 that likes to eat std 19A HD batteries. V Twin makes a 400cca replacement in the Lithium lineup. I do know that Lithium batteries do not like cold, and can respond sluggishly to it. It has always been my understanding that all lithium type batteries require their own special type of charger to prevent over/ under charging.
Please keep us informed of your thoughts and results. Buffalo
They do need to be warm to work well.
This would pose a strange start up procedure for bikes in cold environments.
Possibly turning the bike over without spark just to heat the battery, then engage the battery... just sayin.
supposedly all you do to warm them up is turn the ignition on a couple times. :nix:
voltage 12.8 CCA 625
Stock HD battery.
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m18/tattoo66/IMG_3376_zpsayhbxh5u.jpg) (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/tattoo66/media/IMG_3376_zpsayhbxh5u.jpg.html)
Lithiums do indeed require a special charger. So make very sure you do not accidentally put the wrong one on it. Bad things other than just a ruined battery can happen if you do.
Smaller versions of them have been in use for a very long time. Watch and hearing aid batteries to name two. But bigger ones, capable of handling higher current draws are somewhat new to the scene. 15 years or less.
Early high capacity batteries were prone to fires and small explosions. At least one airliner had such an emergency. But, they've come a long way in recent years and it now seems all the serious bugs have been worked out of them. Chances are you will be impressed by its performance. Just be aware that on the off chance it does fail in some fashion, there's a probability of fire or even a small explosion. So I'd watch where I park the bike.
All that said, I plan on trying one for my next battery in my FXSTC.
Quote from: Tattoo on February 17, 2016, 01:26:33 PM
I have the charger ordered and will be here tomorrow, $39.00 retail. My question is why would it need a special charger but can use the OEM charging system when the bike is running and charging?
They don't like trickle chargers like traditional batteries, and must stay in a specific range to work properly (12-14.5 or so), and if they drop below 11 or so, they may die, and not come back, depending on the manufacturer. Mine charges a little higher with the lithium charger to 13.3 or .4 where my lead batteries stop at 12.8-13.0. Lithium charger shuts off when battery is peaked.
OEM charging system just keeps them running while you ride in the optimum range so no issues there. Charger makes sure it is topped off at correct voltage and ready to go on next ride.
Some lithiums can take traditional chargers, provided it has a shut off at peak, has at least 6V when juicing, and has a strong peak (13.2 at least)
As far as cold starts, turn on lights, and or a couple cold quick hits of the starter is plenty-then crank it over...just needs to get a little warm, no big deal...
"Just be aware that on the off chance it does fail in some fashion, there's a probability of fire or even a small explosion. So I'd watch where I park the bike."
that being said I think I will let somebody else try it in there bike.
Hopefully you have better luck with that than the Braille I put in the race car!
Quote from: Tattoo on February 17, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
supposedly all you do to warm them up is turn the ignition on a couple times. :nix:
voltage 12.8 CCA 625
Stock HD battery.
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m18/tattoo66/IMG_3376_zpsayhbxh5u.jpg) (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/tattoo66/media/IMG_3376_zpsayhbxh5u.jpg.html)
Can you verify the dimensions-
Dimensions: Length: 6.63" X Width: 5.19" X Height: 6.88" Are accurate?
These are stock FL 30L size I believe but not sure...
Quote from: HighLiner on February 17, 2016, 01:54:01 PM
Hopefully you have better luck with that than the Braille I put in the race car!
Braille is an incredible battery company and thousands of race cars world wide use their products.
What happened to your Braille, and did they stand by their product?
length 6 1/4" height just under 7" width 4 3/4"
Lead acid or AGM also have the potential to blow up.
If you decide to try it. Let us know.
Quote from: Tattoo on February 17, 2016, 02:24:11 PM
length 6 1/4" height just under 7" width 4 3/4"
Thanks-
That battery wont fit my bike till I relocate my oil tank.
I previously tested another manufacturers lithium for them and would be happy to test and report results if your rep is interested.
Just need the Dyna/FXR size with 400 cca for fitament. Should work fine for my 126" with ez's.
Quote from: pwmorris on February 17, 2016, 02:19:32 PM
Quote from: HighLiner on February 17, 2016, 01:54:01 PM
Hopefully you have better luck with that than the Braille I put in the race car!
Braille is an incredible battery company and thousands of race cars world wide use their products.
What happened to your Braille, and did they stand by their product?
It wouldn't hold a charge with barely a year of service. It was the biggest, badest, lightweight, carbon fiber one they made. No warranty support. I even talked to them at PRI this year and all they had to say was "we've recently been taken over".
I had a Shorai thru Tucker Rocky lasted one year and a early Antigravity lasted a month maybe on my 02 FLHT. Expensive ordeal even at dealer cost . The neat thing I liked when using them was the cool storage area for extra tools and parts in the battery tray since they were so small. Western Power Sports is selling some of these type batteries one by Battery Tender (Deltran)and two others under there name WPS and Hardrive. Unfortunately I think I'm done with them though
the Twin Power are exact case size, with flush, solid posts to boot
I have been using one of these since July, I've used both my 20 yr old Deltran Tender(750ma) and the Bikemaster Li-Ion maintainer. Voltage is always the same with either maintainer
There is a few different videos of James going thru the cold temp routine as well as some other things on YouTube, just search "twin power Lithium Ion Battery"
I've been selling quite a few of these the last few months, time will tell, but I think it is gonna be a winner
Quote from: Tattoo on February 17, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
supposedly all you do to warm them up is turn the ignition on a couple times. :nix:
voltage 12.8 CCA 625
Stock HD battery.
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m18/tattoo66/IMG_3376_zpsayhbxh5u.jpg) (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/tattoo66/media/IMG_3376_zpsayhbxh5u.jpg.html)
That was my experience with Shorai, kind of weird getting used to. Bike would struggle to turn over a couple times, let it sit a couple minutes, then it would spin like crazy. It only acted like that if it sat for a couple weeks or it was really cold. I used a regular charger on it, there is a bunch of info on advrider forum about the chargers. Mine worked ok with a sears model battery tender.
The snowmobile guys turn their lights on for a little while to get the battery warmed up before starting. This will be season two for my Anti-Gravity. No problems so far.
16 lbs lighter, i like that.
The lithium batteries the people had a problems with where Lithium Polymer type, not Lithium Ion.
Initally there was problems with people using the wrong chargers with lithium batteries, these did and can cause issues with fires and possible explosions. Litium polyimers once shorted out, can produce huge spikes in amps and can melt themselves down. They are not usually hard cased either, making them more susceptible to damage. Lithium Ion batteries are used in many appliances now because they are considered far safer and are usually hard cased. This laptop I'm on right now use LI, as does my new cellphone.
Chargers designed for Lithium batteries typically have provisions for balancing the cells, I'd say its important to use a proper charger.
The Lithium Polymers I use to fly remote control aircraft can deliver large, sustained amps for their size and weight, making them ideal for that purpose. They require constant monitoring of cells, and must be balanced. They suffer badly if pulled down below 3.5volts per cell.
Lithium Ion batteries are far safer because of the cell structure and packaging, they do not do well in cold climates, all Lithium batteries like to be at 90 degrees internally to deliver their full capability. LI batteries can be pulled to 3.0v per cell without damage, have a longer life than LP's and can charged at much higher rates to shorten recovery times. If your charging system is producing 14.2 to 14.7 volts, and stays there fairly steady, the Li should last, but I'd still highly recommend a charger specifically designed to charge it for maintenance. Buffalo
Do they still have the same storage issues their predecessors had that they needed to be stored at a storage vs full charge . I have a very un predictable work schedule
I've been tempted to try one but florida heat, softail with the battery inside the oil tank,,,,,,,,,,humm.
Weight savings is worth 2HP
I know it spins my high compression 124" over with ease after sitting in a cold garage in February in Maine. :up:
we use them down under. Lithium is the talk of the town. Awesome discovery.
I would like to try one in my Kenny Boyce has a Kraftech stainless steel oil tank and I have room for a 30 XTL and 3.75 quarts of oil.
John
Gonna try one in my race bike .now I don't have to diet . :smilep:
(http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr327/strokerjlk/E%2085/hurricane%20103/CC7E0C15-7421-4344-AF9E-4F1F6245628A.jpg) (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/strokerjlk/media/E%2085/hurricane%20103/CC7E0C15-7421-4344-AF9E-4F1F6245628A.jpg.html)
Granted I didn't check many sources but Motorcycle Superstore says $300 for one to fit my 12 EG. The battery in it is less than a year old so I guess I can wait a while.
Mark
We could start our story on that Box in the back Ground hahahahahahahaha just messin with Yah Jim....... :wink: (if that's the same one)
Quote from: IRONMIKE113 on February 27, 2016, 04:26:58 PM
We could start our story on that Box in the back Ground hahahahahahahaha just messin with Yah Jim....... :wink: (if that's the same one)
:beer: same box
Another choice that doesn't require a special battery charger.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/a8667e6020d5dbb4bfaa699ce6e33a56.jpg)
In post 22 buffalo differentiates between lithium ion and lithium polymer. This ad combines the terms? What's up?
I also see the terms lithium ion and iron used back and forth. Totally confused. Using made in USA AGM.
All lithium batteries are lithium ion. Lithium polymer is a lithium ion battery which uses a polymer foil as separator between anode and cathode. Lithium iron phosphate is a lithium ion battery, which has an iron phosphate cathode.
Karl
Is that the same kind of battery those exploding hover boards use ?
Quote from: joe_lyons on February 28, 2016, 09:53:32 AM
Another choice that doesn't require a special battery charger.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/a8667e6020d5dbb4bfaa699ce6e33a56.jpg)
The twin power directions say , you can use conventional lead-acid 12 V charger ( without pulse charging function )
Quote from: Karl H. on February 28, 2016, 12:27:32 PM
All lithium batteries are lithium ion. Lithium polymer is a lithium ion battery which uses a polymer foil as separator between anode and cathode. Lithium iron phosphate is a lithium ion battery, which has an iron phosphate cathode.
Karl
Thanks Karl. That clears it up quite a bit.
Back in a 2014 Cycle World issue, Kevin Cameron wrote and article on Lithium batterys. In the article he listed 5 different chemistry types used and their properties. Lithium cobalt oxide provided the most energy density, but also created the most electrode resistance compared to the other chemistries. Higher resistance equals more heat, and this battery type is the one that makes the news. Lithium iron phosphate is the most common automotive type and has lower energy density but "inherent thermal safety".
Lithium iron phasphate (LiFePo) is the chemistry of choice for starter batteries. It is used by Porsche and Mercedes for their performance cars. The battery Mercedes uses is supplied by A123 (Michigan, USA).
http://www.a123systems.com/Collateral/Images/English-US/Gen3%20SB%20A123%20web.jpg (http://www.a123systems.com/Collateral/Images/English-US/Gen3%20SB%20A123%20web.jpg)
Karl
Quote from: strokerjlk on February 27, 2016, 03:04:26 PM
Gonna try one in my race bike .now I don't have to diet . :smilep:
(http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr327/strokerjlk/E%2085/hurricane%20103/CC7E0C15-7421-4344-AF9E-4F1F6245628A.jpg) (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/strokerjlk/media/E%2085/hurricane%20103/CC7E0C15-7421-4344-AF9E-4F1F6245628A.jpg.html)
use the supplied bolts with the battery.
I tried to use my stock bolts and they are a little to long to make a good connection. they bottom out and appear to be tight ,but they will not have a good connection.
So where are you guys getting your battery and chargers from??
Trying to decide between the Lithium and the Yusas normal
battery.
Bringing this back up .. I installed the Twin power batter in my 124 at the end of summer. Bike has not been on a tender Rode it last about a week ago and we finally got some cold temps for tx HA HA it got down to 30 last night . I walked out and turn on the key hit the button and the engine spun over like butter and fired right off. I can tell you that my Std HD battery would not have done that.
I can tell you that I am impressed , the battery is a bit costly . But in my opinion worth it .
"which has an iron phosphate cathode."
From what I hear doesn't explode like the ion can. :nix:
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on December 08, 2016, 05:37:07 AM
Bringing this back up .. I installed the Twin power batter in my 124 at the end of summer. Bike has not been on a tender Rode it last about a week ago and we finally got some cold temps for tx HA HA it got down to 30 last night . I walked out and turn on the key hit the button and the engine spun over like butter and fired right off. I can tell you that my Std HD battery would not have done that.
I can tell you that I am impressed , the battery is a bit costly . But in my opinion worth it .
:up: thanks for the heads up
well its not often we get cold weather. Mine was a odd issue with the HD AMG battery if on a tender it would light off great but left off for a week or so and it would not. I Own a Vat 45 load tester the battery checked out fine. However some times a loose plate or what ever can throw you a curve ball. And not fail ever time on a true carbon pile load tester. So I bought a new batter nope same deal..
Dropped that Twin power in there and its crazy how well it starts up.. Stock starter stock cables bike is 2012. 124 11.6 comp ratio with the ES cams CCP is 160 if I recall might be a tad more .. CRS sucks some days
Ive had the same results, I have ran mine since June, have had zero issues, and it spins my124 easily.
Mine still spins my 124" over with no issues. :up:
Could I ask specifically what you fellows are using for starters. I may be about to replace another All Balls 1.7 (3rd) in the last 2 years. This unit drops the voltage to 7 upon hitting the button, then climbs back to 11 on a brand new Yuasa battery. We replaced the battery, same problem.
I may have an issue with voltage bleed, after even 2 days, bike will not turn over. Applying a boost pack makes it instantly fire up.
The original 1.6 All Balls lasted 6 1/2 yrs, replaced under warranty with a 1.7. It failed after 1 yr, again replaced under warranty. The latest 1.7 might be defective with 6 months of use.
I was thinking about replacing it with an original 1.4 heavy duty HD starter. Buffalo
I have a 1.7 all balls starter.
I have had the same All Balls 1.7 for over 8 years with no problems. They are juice hogs. My anti-gravity lithium really spools it up great.
Does anyone have Li-battery experience with more than 2 years of use?
Karl
Quote from: Karl H. on December 08, 2016, 10:21:32 AM
Does anyone have Li-battery experience with more than 2 years of use?
Karl
Not on a Twin Power but.
Have 2 seasons on my 720amp anti gravity. 95in @210ccp S&S 585es. Stock starter and cables.
Starter spins the bike over hot or cold like its not there. Really couldn't believe the difference the big amp Li-battery made. Its been flawless bike sits 2 weeks with the security on and fires right up. Never run a tender on it. I have the recommended charger for it and even after sitting inside all winter it needed no charge in spring to put back in the bike. It wasn't cheap but to me it was money very well spent. Bob
Thank you Bob! :up:
I've been running my anti-gravity 600cca battery for a little over two years now. A couple days after I got it my grandson turned on my spotlights and nobody noticed until the voltage in the battery had dropped below 11 volts. Should have been garbage at that point but I bought the charger and gave it a try anyway. Well, it's over two years now and that battery is still working great. Not recommending anyone run their battery down like that, just sayin... It's starting a 120ci motor and has no trouble at all doing so.
I run ONLY hd starters. Mine is stock and stock cables .
ALL BALLS :turd: :turd: Just had TWO right out the box fail . I know other guys love them Great they can have them HA HA . But When they can make a starter last as long as the OEM I will take a look then. Thats not the first one to fail but just not worth it in my mind. And for the new bikes they do not offer a Higher KW starter that I am aware of .
I have a shorai in one bike 4 years and still going strong. Put a twin power in another during the summer we will see how that goes.
As far as starters go, I have the original starter in my '01 with over 100,000 miles on a hot 95" set up. Still works great. I did have some grinding problems on start up for years. Got a new battery this spring (not lithium) and that took care of the grinding, hot or cold. So a big endorsement for stock starters from me.
Been running lithium on multiple applications for over 7 years. Very happy with their advantages over lead.
Several members have dismissed or had doubts about lithium for the following reasons-
1.
"Too expensive"-(most are, but this Twin Power is pretty reasonable for the benefits).
2.
"Won't start in the cold"-(even though, all you have to do is warm it up in very frigid weather by turning on lights, or bumping the start button briefly before firing it. It gets MORE powerful after repeated starts, not LESS, like lead batteries do).
3.
"Don't care about the additional 10-20 lb weight savings, as I already have a heavy bagger and stuff my bags with all kinds of crap anyway"- (less weight is less weight, no matter from what point you start from. Benefits of less weight are better mileage, improved handling, and quicker throttle response).
4.
"My lead battery lasts much longer"-(seen the latest longevity results from the new HD/Dekas? My lithiums have lasted a long time, and always start my big inch engines without a sweat).
5.
"Not reliable"-(might want to do a search on how many guys who have been stranded (including myself in the past), by a dead/finished lead based battery, and we can then compare reliability.
Are they perfect? No, as they as still higher priced at the initial purchase, than lead.
I find it funny that almost all the people who dismiss this technology have never actually run a lithium battery. Crazy...
As far as starters, HD is very solid, and should be enough for most street HD's, but the ultimate starter is a Tech Tornado, http://techcycle.com/tornado-high-torque-gear-reduction-starters/ (http://techcycle.com/tornado-high-torque-gear-reduction-starters/)
With a Spragg starter clutch gear.http://www.spraggusa.com/ (http://www.spraggusa.com/)
I have run Tech, All Balls, HD, Spyke (both stock and a custom made Spyke for me), Compu-fire (which I think is same as Spyke) and even had one hand made from a local starter company.
Most times, it is the starter clutch that goes.
Tried to twice before and after lunch , fired right off. I will say that I was chasing a cold start issue with this bike. I tweaked and tweaked the starting set up with the 66 MM . And to be honest I thought it was a FBW issue as some times it would do ok other times it would crank kick back and cough if it sat off the tender for more than a few days . Nope the tune turned out to be fine it was just a cranking speed issue. We will see mid twenties tonight .. Thats cold for TX so I plan on starting it again tonight and then in the morning again to see how it does at a colder temp.
Quote from: pwmorris on December 08, 2016, 12:08:40 PM
Been running lithium on multiple applications for over 7 years. Very happy with their advantages over lead.
Several members have dismissed or had doubts about lithium for the following reasons-
1.
"Too expensive"-(most are, but this Twin Power is pretty reasonable for the benefits).
2.
"Won't start in the cold"-(even though, all you have to do is warm it up in very frigid weather by turning on lights, or bumping the start button briefly before firing it. It gets MORE powerful after repeated starts, not LESS, like lead batteries do).
3.
"Don't care about the additional 10-20 lb weight savings, as I already have a heavy bagger and stuff my bags with all kinds of crap anyway"- (less weight is less weight, no matter from what point you start from. Benefits of less weight are better mileage, improved handling, and quicker throttle response).
4.
"My lead battery lasts much longer"-(seen the latest longevity results from the new HD/Dekas? My lithiums have lasted a long time, and always start my big inch engines without a sweat).
5.
"Not reliable"-(might want to do a search on how many guys who have been stranded (including myself in the past), by a dead/finished lead based battery, and we can then compare reliability.
Are they perfect? No, as they as still higher priced at the initial purchase, than lead.
I find it funny that almost all the people who dismiss this technology have never actually run a lithium battery. Crazy...
As far as starters, HD is very solid, and should be enough for most street HD's, but the ultimate starter is a Tech Tornado, http://techcycle.com/tornado-high-torque-gear-reduction-starters/ (http://techcycle.com/tornado-high-torque-gear-reduction-starters/)
With a Spragg starter clutch gear.http://www.spraggusa.com/ (http://www.spraggusa.com/)
I have run Tech, All Balls, HD, Spyke (both stock and a custom made Spyke for me), Compu-fire (which I think is same as Spyke) and even had one hand made from a local starter company.
Most times, it is the starter clutch that goes.
Paul the only lithium battery I tried to caution people about was Shorai, as my local multi-brand metric dealer cautioned they had issues with them not working well in singles/twins as far as cranking power. Said they worked fine in 4 cylinder apps.
Also several on the Ducati forum echoed the same cranking issues and short life also.
Shorai rep. at Long Beach the year your bike was there said the same.
I mentioned this back when you were considering Shorai which IIRC you installed and have since removed the Shorai.
Correct anything I got wrong.
The one bike I would like to try a lithium in is my 916 but the Anti-gravity boys told me no go as the 916 has low charging (240 watt) output and the lithium batteries lack reserve...so not a good match. -Rick
Rick,
Thanks for mentioning that as you are absolutely correct. I was referring to my antigravity batteries and forgot to discuss my foray with Shorai. Not good based on my experience. Simply didn't have the cranking power advertised, and not even close. I bought the top CCA model (500)then I even bought another since it was struggling, and ran two connected, and it started better, but no way in hell it cranked that much (1000 lol...). Might have worked with a stock application Harley, and my buddy did run a Shorai for 3 years on his VRod, with their charger on it every night, (which is why I wanted to try them out). I should have known better that his bike and mine were apples and oranges, especially before I ran EZ starts), but does the Vrod have some sort of C/R system? Also, the Vrod is only 1130 CC's, which is what, 70 something inches? Then again, I have tried and failed with all kinds of parts, and to me, it's the only way to know for sure-I only speak of things I have personally tested-good or bad...
Now, to be fair, they run a nice case, and their customer service was top notch as they gave me replacement batteries to try again, at no charge.
So yeah, been running Antigravity so long (16 cell, 20 cell, 24 cell, and for race applications, 2 20's, 2 24's and a 24 connected to their XPS V10 https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/extreme-power/v-10/
Hell, I even ran the 16 volt lithium (killer!, but won't work on a 12v HD system)
I forgot about that short time trying Shorai. Maybe I wanted to forget....lol...... :hyst:
Quote from: Karl H. on December 08, 2016, 10:21:32 AM
Does anyone have Li-battery experience with more than 2 years of use?
Karl
I ran the Shorai in my KTM 950s for 3 years, only issue was below 40 degrees, had to turn the lights on for a minute to warm it up.
I have this battery in my 124" (HC with 640 EZ-starts) 2007 RK.
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/extreme-power/atx20/
With Hooper cables and stock 2007 Harley starter it starts before I can get my thumb off the starter button. 99% of the time, it starts so fast I don't even hear it crank over.
I do have their dedicated charger for it and plug it in when parked in my unheated garage in upstate NY. I started it recently when it was 22° in my garage & it started exactly the same.
I did have a weird thing happen once where I came out one morning about a year ago & the battery was totally 100% flat dead (it had not been on the charger). I thought it was shot, but I plugged in the charger & 10 minutes later it fired right up & has been fine ever since.....
~John
Quote from: jmorton10 on December 11, 2016, 04:19:50 AM
I have this battery in my 124" (HC with 640 EZ-starts) 2007 RK.
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/extreme-power/atx20/ (https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/extreme-power/atx20/)
With Hooper cables and stock 2007 Harley starter it starts before I can get my thumb off the starter button. 99% of the time, it starts so fast I don't even hear it crank over.
I do have their dedicated charger for it and plug it in when parked in my unheated garage in upstate NY. I started it recently when it was 22° in my garage & it started exactly the same.
I did have a weird thing happen once where I came out one morning about a year ago & the battery was totally 100% flat dead (it had not been on the charger). I thought it was shot, but I plugged in the charger & 10 minutes later it fired right up & has been fine ever since.....
~John
Thanks for the honest report on that beast of a battery. I haven't tried their top dog yet, the ATX20, but it's going in my bike when mine goes kaput.
Interesting about the cold weather-maybe their case design has improved to insulate it better..
I posted that battery a while back when it came out and got some interesting responses...lol...
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,89896.msg1031358.html#msg1031358 (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,89896.msg1031358.html#msg1031358)
I put the ATX-20 in my scoot this last summer. It really spools up the engine. I upgraded from the YTX12-24 and the one thing that kind of surprised me was that it was a bit wider. No big deal, just be aware in case you have to play around with your cables.
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on December 11, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
I put the ATX-20 in my scoot this last summer. It really spools up the engine. I upgraded from the YTX12-24 and the one thing that kind of surprised me was that it was a bit wider. No big deal, just be aware in case you have to play around with your cables.
:up:
Is there any truth to the ion not being as safe as the iron? I'm thinking of going lithium in my FXR and want to choose wisely.
As stated before any Li battery is a Li-Ion battery. Li-Ion batteries with a LiFePo electrode are sometimes called Li-Iron (Fe=Iron) but could also be called Li-Ion-Iron. The LiFePo chemistry is one of the safest Li-Ion chemistry you can get. It is far safer than the LiCoO2 chemistry which is also Li-Ion.
Karl
I thought I would update this so I started on Dec 8th with this batter. So 33 days later without charging the batter, and only starting the bike up. ( so no idle just crank it and once it fired I shut it off. ) It rolled over very slow today and it did fire but just barley and I had to hit the button twice. So it will go back on the charger but I can say that I am impressed I never thought it would go this long and still fire my bike. CCP on that engine is 161 on my gauge.
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on January 10, 2017, 09:33:31 AM
I thought I would update this so I started on Dec 8th with this batter. So 33 days later without charging the batter, and only starting the bike up. ( so no idle just crank it and once it fired I shut it off. ) It rolled over very slow today and it did fire but just barley and I had to hit the button twice. So it will go back on the charger but I can say that I am impressed I never thought it would go this long and still fire my bike. CCP on that engine is 161 on my gauge.
How cold was the battery? I've read where the snowmobile guys turn their lights on for awhile before they try to start the engine to bring the internal charge on the battery up.
Up date on twin power lithium ion, One year old dead as can be will not take a charge. Work excellent when it was good. Hope it was a fluke. Any other ones going bad?
So I just saw this , My went dead as well. The new amp was not shutting down and it drained the battery very low. It would not recharge. They did warranty it and now I have to find why the amp is not shutting down . However the not being able to recharge is a odd deal.. They tell you that you need a 'special charger" ok but why the bikes charging system is the same .. it charges the Ion batter AGM wet etc.. The special charger deal to me is a up-sell nothing more until some one can explain why its is truly needed ..
My car starter charger does not have the desulfate feature of the Battery Tender, and has a two amp option, would that work as well as the special charger? (Right now it is charging my three year old ATV battery, agm, that hasn't been started in over a year. We'll see how that does. A Duracell, Batteries Plus special, I believe.)
Quote from: GMR-PERFORMANCE on June 10, 2017, 08:32:44 AM
So I just saw this , My went dead as well. The new amp was not shutting down and it drained the battery very low. It would not recharge. They did warranty it and now I have to find why the amp is not shutting down . However the not being able to recharge is a odd deal.. They tell you that you need a 'special charger" ok but why the bikes charging system is the same .. it charges the Ion batter AGM wet etc.. The special charger deal to me is a up-sell nothing more until some one can explain why its is truly needed ..
I bought the Optimate charger that AG sells. It has a battery save mode that starts at .5v on a dead battery and up to 5amps automatically set by the charger for the best rate. Last year bike sat for a awhile in the fall, when I went out it was dead and I was FFS removed put on the charger let it do its thing and it fully charged and is fine. It was down in the 11v range before the charger. The instructions with the charger state if they go to 10v or less it will damage the battery. I am about as cheap as they come but consider the charger a good investment after spending big$$$ to get the AG 720 amp battery in Canada. Trying to explain why is like trying to explain to a FP3 owner why a dyno tune is needed.
PS
Would really like to try and charge one that is dead and a conventional charger wont charge to see if it would revive it. Bob
Provided the Li battery has an integrated balancer circuit the only thing that can kill the battery is deep discharge or overvoltage of the charging system. The max. voltage rated by the different manufacturers of Li batteries is 14,4 to 14,6 Volt. Lead Acid chargers only deliver a higher voltage when they have a special recovery mode for dead batteries where about 17-20V are applied (very few). Much more risky is the voltage regulator auf our rides! The Harley Electrical Diagnostics Manual says that anything below 15,5V is good! So I would never install a Li battery before having measured the max voltage output of my bike's voltage regulator. I wouldn't allow more than 14,4V.
Karl
I have several chargers . I called one company and asked about one model vs the other that list Ion as one of the batterys . Was told same charger just different label.. OK :idunno: I have the 4 amp Deltran charger , I had not put it back on as where I parked the bike this time I had to run a cord and thought it would be ok for a few days.. The amp is the issue not the battery but it would not come back though
What I do with lithium batteries that are dead is hook another battery up to it. doesn't have to be a lithium. This will put enough current into it to get the charger going. I do this on my drills, impacts etc. as well. Maybe I've just been lucky so far.
What I understand about them is if the charge gets too low, a switch inside the battery turns off, preventing it from charging.
Keeps them from becoming a fire bomb, like the samsung S7 note
The bad one I have something inside must of came loose as you shake it you can hear something inside rattle.
Buglet-I've had several that rattle and are fine. Early on, I had James take a rattler apart that was a good battery and it was a piece of plastic"flashing" from when the case is assembled. Just saying, not all the TP Li-Ion that rattle have a issue