I'm currently tearing down my 80" Shovelhead motor to rebuild it. I've discovered I have 9.5:1 compression Wiseco forged pistons and a camshaft with the numbers 7-0004B M stamped on the gear. I believe it is an Andrews cam. I was able to find info on the cam grind previously and remember thinking it was a very radical cam for the engine. I can't seem to find the info now though. When I rode the bike it had almost no power beyond mid RPM range and was a dog at highway speeds. It has 2-2 drag pipes which probably contributed also. I will be going to a 2-1 pipe, but I am wondering what you guys are running in your bikes with the same compression ratio. I'm just trying to build a good streetable engine that will give me enough passing power so I don't die when trying to get around a slow moving semi truck on the highway.
Andrews stamps the inside end of the cam with their name and the cam number or cam letter. The number you see is only information about the gear. You'll have to pull it out to know what cam it is.
Example of Andrews markings below.
(https://i.imgur.com/oceYSmx.png)
The only other numbers are on the back of the cam lobes. The lobe the furthest to the inside of the engine says 47355, the next one in says h288b or 8.
It looks like my cam may be this one, made by Crane. I haven't looked for the grind numbers yet.
https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/update-crane-hydraulic-hi-roller-cam-h288b-1.html
this is basically the same cam as an Andrews 'A' grind. Neither the Crane or the Andrews are made any longer.
It should be fine for your application.
Crane H288B
Intake
Duration @ .053 in.: 244 degree
Open: 22 degree
Close: 42 degree
Valve Lift: .450 in.
Exhaust:
Duration @ .053 in.: 244 degree
Open: 42 degree
Close: 22 degree
Valve Lift: .450 in.
Well maybe I'll throw it back in. It just looks like a long duration cam. Maybe I should look to the 2-1 exhaust, timing and rejet when I get it put back together.
A 2 into 1 on my 93"er made it look like I'm a better tuner than I am. :teeth:
I had a Crane 288b in mine, and it ran terrible, but it was stock compression. But that cam should work a lot better in yours at 9.5:1.
Here is a little tip that I hope helps you as much as it did me. Mine also had little power above 3K and seemingly no power beyond about 1/2 throttle. After putting an AFR gauge on it, I was astonished at how lean the thing was at full throttle. I thought I had a fairly large main jet in it, and by Evos standards, it was. But good old hemi-head Shovels are a rich burn combustion chamber with little to no quench and no swirl going on, so they don't mix the incoming air-fuel very well and have lean pockets. The solution is to run a much richer A/F. I went from a 185 main jet to finally settling on a 230 (Keihin CV carb). Man, what a difference. The thing now revs freely to redline, and TONs of power at WOT.
I think you're on the right track to use anything but drag pipes, and that will indeed get rid of the torque hole in the mid-RPMs. But do consider an AFR. Best money I ever spent, I tell ya.
-JW
That's a good point JW. Proper AFR is critical to running as it should. Especially with carburetors. Really easy to have lean or rich spots in the RPM range. And I agree with everyone, the drag pipes aren't helping anything. A baffle or a lollipop inserted in the pipes help a little.
All great advice as usual. The 2-1 I'm going to throw on is a really long and cool Bassani megaphone I bought for my TC Chopper. The pipe set is meant for a Soft tail, but my TC is a dyna so the rear pipe doesn't fit well. It's going to get a new set of pipes, and the rear pipe and megaphone are going to be modified to fit the shovel. I do have a narrow band AFR gauge I bought for a Ford project. I could probably jury rig an oxygen sensor in the tail pipe to tune it. Maybe that cam will work out. Now I just have to pull apart my motor and balance it.
DARKHORSE! Night and day, dude. Night. And. Day.
-JW
I would love to send it to Dark Horse. But I reached out to an old friend yesterday and he's going to help. This guy is a really smart aircraft machinist who has been machining and building harleys for over 40 years, he has all the tools. This thing will be built right. I'm in the process of splitting the cases. I had to grind the pilot gear nut to a hex so I could remove it, I was worried I would ruin the shaft, but got it off. Now I need to build a tool to separate the drive side. getting there.
I strongly encourage Darkhorse. They'll also dynamically balance the assembly to get it where it needs to be.
This my TC crank they built for me a month or so ago. All shaft tolerances are less than 0.001".
DH Man O War 4.625 Strom Breaker 124 - 05-29-2022 - 01 - post.jpg
DH Man O War 4.625 Strom Breaker 124 - 05-29-2022 - 05 - post.jpg
Quote from: Ohio HD on July 07, 2022, 01:01:24 PMI strongly encourage Darkhorse. They'll also dynamically balance the assembly to get it where it needs to be.
This my TC crank they built for me a month or so ago. All shaft tolerances are less than 0.001".
DH Man O War 4.625 Strom Breaker 124 - 05-29-2022 - 01 - post.jpg
DH Man O War 4.625 Strom Breaker 124 - 05-29-2022 - 05 - post.jpg
damn that is tight and WOW is that NOICEEEEEEEEEE :pop: :beer: