FLO Oil Filters has just came out with a new stainless steel metal mesh drop-in filter for our Shovelheads. Last year I bought their screw on filter for the FXR and it works great. The thing I like about this type of filter is there is no bypass valve opening up on cold starts like on a paper filter. J.J. at PC Racing told me that because the stainless mesh filters so fast that the bypass valve never has a desire to open. I also like the fact that it is a reusable filter that when you clean it when you change your oil everything is trapped in the filter for inspection without having to cut filters apart. It filters everything up to 35 microns, which may seem big compared to paper manufacturers advertising filtration down to 5, but their number is not constant filtering at 5 microns; and especially when that bypass opens and lets the accumulated crap from the previous ride flow back into the oil bag. The 35 micron filtering is fast and consistent all the time. Anyway, I've got one on the FXR and the FX too and thought you guys might like to check them out. The link to the manufacturer:
http://www.pcracingusa.com/PC53-82-Harley-Davidson-Panhead-53-65-Ironhead-KXL-57-78-Shovelhead-FXFL-66-82_p_99.html (http://www.pcracingusa.com/PC53-82-Harley-Davidson-Panhead-53-65-Ironhead-KXL-57-78-Shovelhead-FXFL-66-82_p_99.html)
(http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a524/Older-twin/filter1_zps03a7b06e.jpg) (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/Older-twin/media/filter1_zps03a7b06e.jpg.html)
Are you sure there is no by-pass valve, Nevermind, I reread what you said and agree about the bypass valve, have installed a few of these filters.... like that you can use a socket on the filter to remove and install.
Thanks for the link. It looks promising. I buy my drop-in filters off of ebay for $17 for two, so this would pay off after 7 oil changes, then keep on afterward.
and being a drop in you can inspect/clean it as often as you like :up:
Thanks for the link to the site. Will contact them for sure.. :up:
I use a spin-on filter with my Panhead. I went to their site and found a spin-on filter that will work for my setup.
-Craig
i'll be getting one of these one day.......it's much better than cutting filters apart.........thanks
I see one of those in my future too. Thanks for posting. Bill
no doubt, a better way to go. Good info. Thanks
I should probably look into this but I have about 10 years worth of disposable drop in filters on the shelf. :banghead:
Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on May 28, 2014, 05:35:09 AM
I should probably look into this but I have about 10 years worth of disposable drop in filters on the shelf. :banghead:
Me, too.
I buy the paper filters by the 1/2 dozen when I see them at a good price.
I've saved the link, though. When I run through my stock, I'll pick one of these up.
OK you shovels that know about the drop in tank shovel filters. Was able 2 buy a high Flo drop in paper in your experience are the adequate for my 1980 shovelhead project?
New $12 HiFlo HF178 and the old filter that was in tank. Thanks.
If you want to use one of these, then that's your decision. I've always been a bit skeptical about them. To paraphrase what they have in their web page:
"our filter catches particles down to 35 microns "absolute rating" (one pass), which is 3x better than paper filters..."
OK, let's examine that. Who, other than these guys, say their filter is 3x better than paper ones? Fram, for example, doesn't.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/29/ask-away-with-jeff-smith-micron-ratings-and-what-they-mean-for-your-oil-filter/
In fact, this FLO filter is about HALF as good as a Fram Ultra Guard, according to Fram's data.
Also, single pass test? That's a lousy way to measure filtering efficiency, as stated in the referenced article. For a more real world test, you need to look at the Multi-Pass Efficiency results. What is that for the FLO filter?
Also, useless advertising claim:
"FLO pleat seam welded to withstand up to 600degF..."
Uh... so what? Anybody running their oil even close to 600degF? If mine got even half that hot, then something is very, very wrong. I cut filters open all the time, never seen one that the "inferior" glue was not holding the filter together. Have you?
And no bypass valve? OK, again, probably fine for racing. And since the filter efficiency is 35 microns, yeah it probably does not plug up like a paper one could. Which, again, is concerning don't you think? And racing bikes don't typically race in really cold weather, when the oil is thick as maple syrup, and this or any other filter is going to act like a nasty restriction, hence the need for a bypass. As the above article so nicely stated, "dirty oil is better than no oil".
These are probably fine for race only machines, that don't get hardly any miles on them, and get torn down all the time. If you want to run one of these in a street bike, that gets 10,000s or 100,000s of miles on them, good luck!
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on May 27, 2022, 04:39:22 PMIf you want to use one of these, then that's your decision. I've always been a bit skeptical about them. To paraphrase what they have in their web page:
"our filter catches particles down to 35 microns "absolute rating" (one pass), which is 3x better than paper filters..."
OK, let's examine that. Who, other than these guys, say their filter is 3x better than paper ones? Fram, for example, doesn't.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/29/ask-away-with-jeff-smith-micron-ratings-and-what-they-mean-for-your-oil-filter/
In fact, this FLO filter is about HALF as good as a Fram Ultra Guard, according to Fram's data.
Also, single pass test? That's a lousy way to measure filtering efficiency, as stated in the referenced article. For a more real world test, you need to look at the Multi-Pass Efficiency results. What is that for the FLO filter?
Also, useless advertising claim:
"FLO pleat seam welded to withstand up to 600degF..."
Uh... so what? Anybody running their oil even close to 600degF? If mine got even half that hot, then something is very, very wrong. I cut filters open all the time, never seen one that the "inferior" glue was not holding the filter together. Have you?
And no bypass valve? OK, again, probably fine for racing. And since the filter efficiency is 35 microns, yeah it probably does not plug up like a paper one could. Which, again, is concerning don't you think? And racing bikes don't typically race in really cold weather, when the oil is thick as maple syrup, and this or any other filter is going to act like a nasty restriction, hence the need for a bypass. As the above article so nicely stated, "dirty oil is better than no oil".
These are probably fine for race only machines, that don't get hardly any miles on them, and get torn down all the time. If you want to run one of these in a street bike, that gets 10,000s or 100,000s of miles on them, good luck!
-JW
These filters have been discussed bunches of times on this forum. There have been more charts, specs, images, stories told abut irrelevancies, etc. I doubt very many of the posters had actually used one of these filters, but yet some swore they were the 'best ever' while others claimed running them would cause the collapse of modern civilization. <sigh>. I bet if someone truly cared about knowing more about this filter they could probably search this forum, select the thread with the most responses and then after reading the entire thread if they still had a question they could revive the thread by asking their question. But no. Lazy. Rude. Serve me an answer on a platter. Circle of life goes round.
FWIW, I tried one. It didn't ruin my life, but it required a bit of work t clean it. So much easier to throw an old filter in the trash and put a new one on.
Good grief.
I've been using the drop-in filters from Perf Form on the S&S "Shovel" mill in my 76 for the 18 years it's been bolted in. They seem to work. Change your oil early and often. Good enough for the girls I date.
Thank u I will run the paper filter in the shovel. Appreciate you all.
No need to over think HD engineers.